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1997 Oldsmobile Regency Power Brake Booster Cardone - Vacuum Power Brake Booster

P311-16852A6    54-74802  Remanufactured

18018941 , 18029959

In Stock & Ready to Ship
$18.00 $86.53
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • without Master Cylinder
  • Vacuum Power Brake Booster
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Power Brake Boosters are re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. Original designs are scrutinized for potential improvement and, where applicable, design upgrades are implemented to produce a more durable part than the original. All units are 100% tested to ensure perfect fit and function.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
1997 - Oldsmobile Regency

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1996 Brake Booster

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From girlsgetdirtytoo on 1996 Brake Booster

I have a 1996 Chevy 1500. I need to change the brake booster and my problem is pretty simple, Im sure. I cant seem to get it to come off the brake pedal. Can someone please guide me through this please.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There is a clip on the end that has to be spread and then slid off.

Vacumn brake booster

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Vacumn brake booster

Have a 1997 S10 Chevy. Trying to change Vacum Brake Booster. Nuts must be removed from inside. How do I go about getting to them to remove them?Thank you....

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Lay on your back, twist in half, cuss a lot, borrow 3 more hands, cuss a lot and reach up under the dash and remove the 4 nuts. Good luck.

ABS connection to brake booster

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From CRINTIMIDATOR on ABS connection to brake booster

1991 GMC K1500 5.7. Engine runs fine til it warms up then when you apply brakes hard, engine will stall. If you pump brakes, rpms will raise then fall til it stalls. New master cylinder and brake booster. Wondering if ABS module or ABS Hydraulic Unit can affect the vacuum on booster if either goes bad. Have not found any vacuum leaks anywhere.

Response From Discretesignals

If you have a vacuum gauge, connect it to the intake manifold. What it is the vacuum at idle with engine warmed up? If you have low manifold vacuum to begin with, activating the brake booster can kill the engine.

I found one person's perception of an engine running fine may be different than another person's. We had a customer with a dead misfire and they swore up and down the engine was running fine and had plenty of power.


I appreciate the responses. Had the transmission rebuilt around four months ago and after it was installed, truck just died on way to work, like three weeks later. After sitting for around an hour cranked back up and he discovered the distributor was shot. Replaced the distributor and everything was fine till it started stalling at stops and when you put it in gear. Replaced brake booster and just about every sensor and module including new computer on truck. Ended up buying new crate motor (original had 275,000 mileage) and after installation, still doing same thing, stalling when you put it in gear. I am thinking it is in wiring but he has so much time invested he is bound and determined to figure it out himself. Vacuum seems to be fine when he checked it.

Response From Discretesignals

Now your saying it stalls when putting into gear. You stated before it was stalling when your pumping on the brake pedal.


If you are in park or neutral, if you pump the brakes it will raise rpms but if you switch into drive or reverse and hold brake, it will stall. If you hold brake lightly it doesn't stall. If you are pressing brake hard it stalls every time. Also stalls when driving in traffic and coming to red light or stop sign. After you stop the rpms will start acting erratic and then it will die. Starts right back up.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer check valve and grommet. Not vehicle specific but did you replace those?

This is all over the place but seems it leaks vacuum to me exacerbated by brake use that does use vacuum but only till it's at max intake manifold vacuum then quits taking vacuum. Check valve hold that for the time you aren't touching brakes at all - get it?

If that leaks or maybe hose to it with just some motion of booster and master assy it might leak vacuum on hose to it. All of that if booster was replaced should have been new IMO and fit tightly even without clamps.

If you just plugged that (don't drive the thing) you lose power assist but then will find touching brake pedal at idle or in gear - clear area for low powered brakes it could move, it shouldn't effect the way the engine runs at all. Then when hooked up if it does and constantly it's leaking.

Perhaps a quick (usually don't notice) stumble to recharge vacuum for next use but if idle speed is staying normal you really wouldn't notice and if not find out why AND once holding brake at a stop the consumption of more vacuum stops unless you are pumping it away.

ABS - I don't think it's involved with this part at all. You could probably just pull the fuse for it which puts it back to regular brakes and a dash light should light while fuse out,



He has discovered if he unplugs the temperature sensor the truck idles fine and doesn't stall when you put it in gear. Replaced with oem but when it is plugged in it stalls when you put it in gear. He checked the check valve on booster, seem to be working properly.

Response From Discretesignals

I've ran into one of those where when you pressed on the brake the engine would stall out. What happened on that one was the brake lamps and the fuel pump share the same ground point on the frame. The ground had a bad connection and when the brake lights were operated that would cause the fuel pump to quit or slow down due to the voltage drop happening across the poor ground point.

Unplugging the temperature sensor (ECT) will cause the engine puter to add more fuel because it will think the engine is running cold. Maybe the low fuel pressure when the brakes are applied is being offset when you have the ECT unplugged. Just a theory.

Fuel pump ground is located somewhere in the back on the left frame rail...I believe.

You could also do a voltage drop test on the pump ground circuit to see if it has excessive voltage drop when the brakes are applied for confirmation.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Getting to be a waste here. Which sensor, one for fuel delivery that would cover the vacuum leak your booster probably causes? That or the one for a gauge which would do nothing for this.

Nothing conclusive for tests or proper anything on this so far. If someone is just going to tell you it's all fine and you believe it than why is there a problem? Thread is messed up,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

1991? I don't think ABS messes with vacuum in power assist? Try this: Engine off, deplete power assist by depressing brake pedal till it feels hard. Hold there and start engine and pedal should fall some with renewed assist.

It should also hold power assist long after engine is shut off for a couple stops or at least one decent one. If not vacuum is leaking and everything from check valve to even new booster in question. If somehow master and booster are not compatible with pushrod to master things could be messed up there,


Problem removing brake booster of 98 Dodge. Now with pictures!

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Greenwheel on Problem removing brake booster of 98 Dodge. Now with pictures!

1998 Dodge Durango 5.2L 80,000 miles

After multiple troubleshooting, I found out the brake booster arm rusted to the brake pedal. My father had me cut off the arm a couple inches from the connection. In attempt to move it enough so to loosen the rust and remove it.
How does the booster connect to the pedal. It looks like a pin of some sorts, but still confused as heck to how.
How easy should the brake pedal depress and release. Im afraid the brake pedal hinges are also semi rusted.
And of course, what would your actions be to remove the booster arm. Keep in mind I need to attach a duplicate booster that I bought.
Thank you much.

Response From nickwarner

pics aren't coming up. Try using photobucket. That site has good results on this one.

Response From Greenwheel

After some trial and error I have found a way to link photos. I will edit original post.

Response From Discretesignals

There should have been a clip on it. Once the clip is removed the rod slides off. You may need to put some penetrating oil on and and see if you can work it off.

Response From Greenwheel Top Rated Answer

Yes, there was a pathetic excuse for a clip on the end of the pin. So the arm should slide off the pin then?

Response From Hammer Time

I would try to get it to rotate first and then get it lubed up good and it should slide off the pin.

plymouth voyager brake booster problem

Showing 6 out of 9 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From tripletsaber on plymouth voyager brake booster problem

I have a 1993 Plymouth voyager that still runs quite well and have just put a few dollars into. That said, the brake booster went on the vehicle and my mechanic tells me that a new one cost about $1500 which he knows iam not spending and a used one goes for about $350. He and I have both tried almost every junkyard this side of the Mississippi River and they have all told us the same thing. And that is that you cannot find that part/unit(the entire brake booster unit) for that car since it is too old and they are not around anymore. My mechanic even tried converting the car to where it would not need it but he said that there was not enough space to do so. Are there any solutions to this or do I have to bite the bullet and junk the car.

Response From Discretesignals

What is actually bad on it, the pump or hydraulic assembly?

Response From tripletsaber

from what i understand, it is the entire unit. the unit that is in there cannot be repaired.

Response From Discretesignals

A-1 Cardone can return and rebuild your hydraulic unit for around $500 ($100 core). Most local part houses deal with Cardone. Hopefully the mechanic diagnosed the problem to the unit itself. You can test the pump motor on the vehicle to be sure that part of the system is working.

Response From tripletsaber

the unit in question is called the abs accumulator hydaulic unit. is their website
thanks for all your help.

Response From Discretesignals

That's the one.

Response From tripletsaber

Thanks Discretesignals, youve been a big help.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Your welcome. Let us know how things turn out with that.

Response From tripletsaber

ive been in touch with cardone and they told me i can send them the unit but it first has to go thru a local dealership like napa, carquest, fisher, or autozone. ill try and contact one of them tomorrow and see what the cost/process is. ill let you know how it turns out.
thanks again