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TSK
2011 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-06D3510    W0133-1829615  New

Qty:
$109.85
TSK Power Window Motor
  • Front Right
Brand: TSK
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Vehicle
2011 - Mazda 6
Genuine
1996 Mazda MPV Power Window Motor Genuine

P311-140C22D    W0133-1811246  New

Qty:
$225.65
Genuine Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front Left
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Mazda MPV
TSK
2009 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-06D3510    W0133-1829615  New

Qty:
$109.85
TSK Power Window Motor
  • with Passenger Side One Touch System
  • Front Right
Brand: TSK
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda 6
Genuine
2000 Mazda MPV Power Window Motor Genuine

P311-14A2814    W0133-1811238  New

Qty:
$128.42
Genuine Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front Left
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mazda MPV
Dorman
1999 Mazda Miata Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-2765977    W0133-1895621  New

Qty:
$262.57
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • Right
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Miata
TYC
2007 Mazda CX-7 Power Window Motor TYC

P311-43C6089    W0133-1793128  New

Qty:
$151.35
TYC Power Window Motor
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Mazda CX-7
TYC
2015 Mazda CX-9 Power Window Motor TYC

P311-43C6089    W0133-1793128  New

Qty:
$151.35
TYC Power Window Motor
  • Production: -02/15/2015
Brand: TYC
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2015 - Mazda CX-9 To:02-15-15
TSK
2009 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-1CEE214    W0133-1829616  New

Qty:
$114.03
  • Front Left
Brand: TSK
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda 6
TSK
2014 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-1CEE214    W0133-1829616  New

Qty:
$114.03
  • One Touch Window Open/Close
  • Front Left
Brand: TSK
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Mazda 6
Dorman
1999 Mazda Miata Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-41EC07C    W0133-1895622  New

Qty:
$263.05
  • Left
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Miata
Genuine
1999 Mazda Miata Power Window Motor Genuine

P311-133B46A    W0133-1895622  New

Qty:
$252.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Left
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Miata
Dorman
2000 Mazda Miata Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-41EC07C    W0133-1895622  New

Qty:
$263.05
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mazda Miata
TSK
2009 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-55336F6    W0133-1829611  New

Qty:
$81.99
  • Rear Right
Brand: TSK
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda 6
TSK
2009 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-55336F6    W0133-1829611  New

Qty:
$81.99
  • Production: 10/26/2009-, w/o Passenger Side One Touch System
  • Rear Right
Brand: TSK
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Mazda 6 Fr:10-26-09
TSK
2014 Mazda 6 Power Window Motor TSK

P311-55336F6    W0133-1829611  New

Qty:
$81.99
  • w/o Passenger Side One Touch System
  • Rear Right
Brand: TSK
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Mazda 6
Cardone
2008 Mazda B2300 Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone

P311-3B524F7    82-912  New

Qty:
$46.49
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Window Lift Motor - Domestic New
  • Includes additional adaptor harnesses
  • New CARDONE Select Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gear Included: Yes
    • Mounting Type: Self-tapping
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 3
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Instruction Sheet
    • Product Condition: New
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left; Rear Right
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wire Or Terminal Quantity: 2
  • CARDONE Select New Window Lift Motors are designed to meet or exceed OEM performance. CARDONE Select Engineers (CSE) evaluate the failure of the original OE unit and any design flaws are corrected to ensure a longer lasting product. CARDONE Select Engineers (CSE) use the latest in technology and innovation to create high value at a low cost, providing a new, quality product, that both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Mazda B2300 Front Left
Dorman
1991 Mazda Navajo Power Window Motor - Front Right Dorman

P311-575CD0B    742-251  New

Qty:
$32.79
Dorman Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature - Benefit 1: 100% New Units
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Direct Fit Wiring Harness ? No Wire Splicing Necessary
    • Feature - Benefit 3: Includes The Mounting Hardware Necessary To Complete The Repair Where Applicable
    • Feature - Benefit 4: Quality Tested For Durability And Performance
    • Hardwired or Plug-in: Plug-in
    • Installation Hardware Included: No
    • Micro-controlled (Embedded Logic): No
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor And Wiring Harness
    • Window Lift Gear Included: Yes
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wiring Harness Included: Yes
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda Navajo Front Right
Dorman
1991 Mazda Navajo Power Window Motor - Front Right Dorman

P311-575CD0B    742-251  New

Qty:
$32.79
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hardwired or Plug-in: Plug-in
    • Installation Hardware Included: No
    • Micro-controlled (Embedded Logic): No
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor And Wiring Harness
    • Window Lift Gear Included: Yes
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wiring Harness Included: Yes
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda Navajo Front Right
Dorman
1991 Mazda Navajo Power Window Motor - Front Left Dorman

P311-3293BFB    742-250  New

Qty:
$32.79
Dorman Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature - Benefit 1: 100% New Units
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Direct Fit Wiring Harness ? No Wire Splicing Necessary
    • Feature - Benefit 3: Includes The Mounting Hardware Necessary To Complete The Repair Where Applicable
    • Feature - Benefit 4: Quality Tested For Durability And Performance
    • Hardwired or Plug-in: Plug-in
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Micro-controlled (Embedded Logic): No
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Wiring Harness And Mounting Screws
    • Window Lift Gear Included: Yes
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wiring Harness Included: Yes
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda Navajo Front Left
Dorman
1991 Mazda Navajo Power Window Motor - Front Left Dorman

P311-3293BFB    742-250  New

Qty:
$32.79
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hardwired or Plug-in: Plug-in
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Micro-controlled (Embedded Logic): No
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Wiring Harness And Mounting Screws
    • Window Lift Gear Included: Yes
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wiring Harness Included: Yes
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda Navajo Front Left

Latest Mazda Repair and Window Motor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Window won't go down

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Tyjal on Window won't go down

94 mazda protege, 1.8 DOHC, 140,000 miles My passenger side front window will not go down, the driver's side seatbelt light keeps flashing and now the seatbelt will not slide down and the read drivers door lock will not come up with the other locks. What could be causes these problems?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Tyjal; 1) RF window; Electric, I presume? Have you tried both the driver's door master switch and the RF door switch? If it doesn't go up or down, probably the window motor. If it works with one of the switches, then the problem would be the switch.
2) LR door lock; Could be a faulty connection at the door lock actuator or the actuator (or switch) is faulty. Have you tried using the switch on that door? If it won't work at the master or door switches, you'll need to remove the door panel and take a look. Could even be a linkage problem. Can you hear it click in the door when you operate the switch?
3) Seat belt; If it won't retract, could be the cause of the lamp illuminating. Not sure. Sorry.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Window:

Try moving the glass and see if it will move without power or cranking. Regulator possible and big bucks if I recall on these!

Go used for those if poss and needed,

T

POWER WINDOWS PROBLEM>>fuse keeps blowing,drivers side wont come up! HELP!!! **Repaired**

Showing 4 out of 15 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From protege1.6 on POWER WINDOWS PROBLEM>>fuse keeps blowing,drivers side wont come up! HELP!!! **Repaired**

Hi everyone,


So I have a 2000 Mazda Protege SE, which came with aftermarket power windows.

Of course, they broke in the Fall last year when I was at the timmies drive through.

I remember how they broke, I tried to put my window down and I heard a "shhht shht" sound (I guess shorting?) .

Both windows aren't working (rear windows have winders)

So I decided to wait until Spring to repair them.

I checked the fuse and there is continuity (fuses are good) but there is no voltage reading on the 30AMP socket , and the little lights on the switches aren't lighting up so I guess its not a mechanical problem?



Please help and provide suggestions,

Thanks.

Response From dsw1204

My guess is that you have a faulty power window regulator/motor. Replace that (make sure the motor comes with the regulator) and I would bet your problem would be solved.

Response From protege1.6


My guess is that you have a faulty power window regulator/motor. Replace that (make sure the motor comes with the regulator) and I would bet your problem would be solved.






Yeah, it definitely is somewhere in the driver's side door (since thats where the smoke is coming from) , I'm just wondering what I should check first when I open up the door (not looking forward to dismantliing the door ) .

Response From Hammer Time

I've never really seen a window motor or regulator cause a dead short and smoke but the wiring inside and where it comes through the door can create bare wires and a short.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Neither have I and always a first time. Can't compete when someone claims smoke, blowing fuse and can't find or have a real clue where it's even smoking from.
More often w regulators the plastic is brittle to anything or cable goes all wrong up to motor plain quits, doesn't draw current and can't.
As HT also said that where wires bend in door jam is also a common spot for trouble and could short right there. More often begins at intermittent then nothing either direction. Of course once for a window that's down you can only know it's still trying by knowing it's drawing current to do so as it wont go down more!


This should never have been this difficult IMO,


T

Response From protege1.6




I MANAGED TO REPAIR IT MYSELF!! AND SAVE THE $200 REPAIR BILL!! WOW IM PROUD OF MYSELF!!


ok so it had nothing to do with the motor, I took the motor component off and placed the wires to the terminals of the battery , it worked just fine (now I know that the motor/regulator didn't need replacing).

there were bare wires , with the insulation melted off at the wires coming out of the motor, I cut the bare wires out and put plastic bullet connectors on the motor wires to the black and green wires.

Then I screwed the motor and regulator component back on the door, and put vaseline in the weather stripping where the windows sits inside, and vaseline on the metal track inside the door (and wiped off the metal liquid (whats it called?) , so the windows doesn't face too much resistance on the "up" journey. The windows come down a lot easier than going up.

What caused the short in the first place? who knows , I still don't.

I apologize for the lack of photo's had no time.

Thanks for all the 2 cents and free input.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"and put vaseline in the weather stripping where the windows sits inside"


You'll regret that part. Weather stripping rubber isn't petroleum friendly and will probably swell up and be destroyed. If the fuzzy rubber will fail also later.


If real Vaseline or generic of it read the label. It will say not to use it on rubber anything - ya, even those other 'rubber' things!


T

Response From Hammer Time

It will also become muddy grit scratching the window when all the dust sticks to it.

Response From Discretesignals

I wonder what happens to Vaseline when it gets really hot in that door during summer time?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can't think of a vehicle that wants real grease never mind "Petroleum" grease on door rubber parts. I've had to use spray lithium grease where felted tracks wore out the felt and a window wouldn't move without help - all worn out junker but made a mess, always dirty glass smudges and if car lasted long enough (last ditch for those) window would have fallen out of track.


Better vehicles with the track rubber silicon spray that dried helped but became a routine to redo it and could without removing door panel. Those from the tolls at a booth commutes with windows open and closed 10 times a commute! Not funny, lots of folks just opened the whole door instead to prevent it or because it already happened,


T

Response From protege1.6

Update

I managed to get that panel off, and found a small black fuse box holding a 30amp fuse....the fuse was broken : so I thought this would be a simple fix!

replaced the fuse, the windows went down, but the drivers side wouldnt go back up!!

came home, and found out that new fuse blew too! so something is causing the fuse to blow!! .

I tried to short the fuse, and pushed the switch to get the drivers side to go down, but it wouldnt go back up again!!!

then the motor was humming but the window wasn't going up! next thing I know the entire door was smoking (burnt out motor?)

and the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box (not the independent one I replaced), was blown now too!

The circuit is basicaly like this red from ignition>>>>>fuse>>>> switch>>>>>motor

Is there a dead short ?



What should I do?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I tried to short the fuse, and pushed the switch to get the drivers side to go down, but it wouldnt go back up again!!!

then the motor was humming but the window wasn't going up! next thing I know the entire door was smoking (burnt out motor?)



Well, follow the smoke and you should find the short. Luckly you didn't try that with circuits that run behind the dash.

Install a circuit breaker the same rating as the fuse if your going to attempt to find shorts. You should remove power from the circuit and unplug the motor. Then use your ohm meter and check for shorts in the circuits.

The window or regulator could be binding and overloading the window motor.

Response From protege1.6



I tried to short the fuse, and pushed the switch to get the drivers side to go down, but it wouldnt go back up again!!!

then the motor was humming but the window wasn't going up! next thing I know the entire door was smoking (burnt out motor?)



Well, follow the smoke and you should find the short. Luckly you didn't try that with circuits that run behind the dash.

Install a circuit breaker the same rating as the fuse if your going to attempt to find shorts. You should remove power from the circuit and unplug the motor. Then use your ohm meter and check for shorts in the circuits.

The window or regulator could be binding and overloading the window motor.


>>>> How do I make a circuit breaker? and where should I install it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

/
That should be your whole regulator. If you haven't even taken the door panel off to see (has to show if smoking in there) where it's burning up suggestions are still guesses as to what you'll find and the fix.


That entire "regulator w motor" will probably rivet in but you could either see wires burnt, plug burnt up, or cable for the regulator in a bird's nest mess. Cable will only pull not push so it "pulled" one way (down of course) and that ends that now if so.


It only takes slamming a door to mess these up wholesale or just bad luck. With panel off you'll find probably a plastic sheet to remove and limited holes in metal of inside door to view the show, wires and what's going on.


If you are in trouble to just get the panel off try searching a YouTube of how panel comes off for any hidden screws and where up to removing that thru the metal of inside door for another.


Plug: Looks like this.........
/
If you so much as find that good unplug it and see if all shorting quits if in doubt and fuse doesn't blow. All that two wire connection should do is take power to one side and ground to the other to move motor for up or down reverse those.


Could be done out of the car with a 12v power source if you wanted to be sure of the assembly or left inside unplugged from anything else on the car. I wont describe how till you can look right at this and you probably wont have to it will be pretty obvious IMO what the problem is,


T

Response From Hammer Time

And where did you pull that wild guess out of?
Lots of places in addition to that to create a short/overload.

2002 Mazda 626 Power Window does not work

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From xrik on 2002 Mazda 626 Power Window does not work

I have a 2002 Mazda 626 (4 cyl) with 70k mi.

The passenger power window does not work, but the other 3 windows do. I checked the fusebox and the 30A fuse is good.

When I applied 12 volts directly to the passenger power window motor under the door panel, the window went up. Is there a relay that can possibly be bad? The window will not go down when using the driver side window switch or the passenger side window switch. So I figured it could be a bad switch or relay if there is one.

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Some ideas and checks: With helper see if voltage makes it to plug in door for motor when asked for. It should alternate two wires to be pos and ground for up and down respectively. If not note which one and go inside and find same color wire and see if it behaves to that point. If so the likely problem is the wires that need to bend all the time with opening and closing can break inside usually a rubber snorkel to hide them. If so do it right and splice in a new wire or make a repair of existing one if possible.

Note: Wire is not wire - fine stranded copper and wire meant to bend and move is different that real cheap wire.

Seems a bit new and low miles for this issue and it usually happens to driver's door used the most. It's a guess?

T

(notification of a reply to this is broken at the moment so it's pot luck that I find it's been responded to right now)

2007 mazda 6 windows

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From stretchy on 2007 mazda 6 windows

my '07 mazda 6 had its battery fried the other day because of the heat outside. I replaced the battery and its all working now except the power windows, the passenger window control on the driver side no longer works and the automatic option on the passenger window no longer works either (in other words i can open the window only by using the passenger control and the auto option does not work)

of course everything worked fine before the battery died.

when the battery died I tried starting the car a few times before i realised it was no use and the fuse box started to click (Short circuit im assuming) when i tried to start it with the dead battery

my only assumption is that the fried battery + my attempt at starting the car cooked some wires and now i must get them replaced?

please help :)

Devon

Response From stretchy

im now starting to think that i need to reset my windows, any opinions?

Response From stretchy Top Rated Answer

success!!

This is the procedure that worked for me for anyone with similar problems

This is a quote from the workshop manual

Note
? A driver side window will not fully close automatically under following the conditions:
? The battery has been disconnected during vehicle maintenance or for other reasons.
? The power window main switch connector, or driver-side power window motor connector has been
disconnected.
? Carry out the following procedure to resume operation:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
2. Press the driver side power window main switch and fully open the driver side window.
3. Pull up the driver side power window main switch to manual-up position to fully close the driver side window,
and keep holding the switch up at the position for about 2 seconds to complete initial setting.

TWO-STEP DOWN FUNCTION OPERATIVE/NON-OPERATIVE SWITCHING PROCEDURE

Note
? By following the procedure below, the two-step down function is switched to non-operative when it is
operative, and to operative when it is non-operative.

Turn the Ignition on
Within 5 sec
perform the auto open two times
perform the auto close two times

turn the ignition off and within 40 seconds and repeat the above sequence.

Repeat for all the windows.

Response From Discretesignals

Just getting ready to post that. Glad to see you figured it out. Thanks for the follow up