Have codes read & come back & post the numbers.....Most parts stores will do this for free

The engine light doesnt stay on will it still show a code if the lights not on? It only comes on while driving. But i let off on the gas pedal and the engine light turns off. This happens time to time and sometimes multiple times while driving. Iv never owned a miata and jus bought this one a couple days ago. The speedo says 390,xxxmiles but the engine dont look like thats on it or even the car itself

Yes, the code should be stored in memory but you may have to pay a shop to do that one since it's OBD1.

Ok sweet thanks ill get back with the codes if they dont kno what it is.. do you know what the ticking noise in the top end might be? It isnt always there is comes and goes too

You'll have to make it louder. I can't hear it.

I wud like to know if fuel injector number four, cracked and flooding piston four, would also make piston number 2 not work

Sorry m jus getting use to this site and m kida comfused myself.. i dont have access to an ohmeter can u use one in autozone? Sorry fer the comfusion i jus bought this car m jus tryn ta figure out what is goi. O. With it. And need to learn this site better. Thank you for your help if u have an answer to the last question ill only post on this one link. Can u delete one after youve posted it?

Is that what happened? You have a leaking injector on #4? Did you see if the regulator is leaking?

Is #2 cylinder flooded also?

I did test with tube from intake manifold off nothing squirted anywher from the regulator. Yes i pulled all plugs and plug 2and 4 wer wet with gas the others were dry. When i pulled all the injectors out the one for piston/plug 4 was cracked on the end. Injector 2 had a scratch idk if its a crack. So 2/4 are getting flooded 1/3 are fine and still igniting. I checked for spark from the coil pack and it was good.

I don't think that a cracked injector in #4 would flood out #2, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them both.

In fact, if you have the money, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all four injectors just in case #1 & 3 let loose later.

If the injectors were leaking fuel into the cylinders, its possible that those two cylinder could be washed out. That means they may have no compression, so you'll have to squirt a little bit of oil in those cylinders to get the compression to come back up while cranking the engine with the plugs removed, all injector connectors unplugged, and coil unplugged.

You don't want gas or spark going on while your trying to restore compression while cranking the engine.

Yes hopefully this is the only problem i had ordered some racing injectors all four

Shane: I suggest staying OE for replacement parts or could confuse the fix - not certain but may open Pandora's box requiring other alterations to accommodate doing that. Yes it's now an old car but not old enough IMO to fool with things aftermarket, performance or other things,

T

Hey guys i have two questions..1 is when i put cold air intake what happens with the mas air flow sensor plug thats pluged into the stock intake box? What do i do with it and with it not pluged in what will it do?.....2nd i need new wheel bearings in front my car is the 1990 base model, does it have ABS? the bearings i found come together with lugnut bolt hub assembly i need to know wether my car has abs or not....thank you!!

You need the MAF sensor, the engine won't right without it....If that kit is for that model, there should be a way to mount it in to your new system. That part can't be eliminated.

For your wheel bearing, just look at the dash. There should be an ABS light that comes on for a few seconds & then goes out when the car is started..... Or you could just look at the hub assembly, see it there is a sensor with a wire going to it, also there should be an tone ring on the axle....

If you have any issues with the bearing start a new thread......

So what was the final outcome with the running problem??? Did you get it fixed??? What did you do???

Thank you. Ther was a cracked fuel injector and the wire harness for the fuel injectors was bad. As for the white smoke i had changed the oil and put the 5 litter oil change jug into the engine when the engine only takes 3.2 litters off oil. Changed oil again runs great. Still havent figured out the check engine. It blinks once then twice im taking that as a 12 but anywhere i go they cant figure out what it is.

I did the thkng and it blinked once then twiceso m guessin thats a 12 and the book at auto zone said it doesnt apply to my car

The filter is just a screen and if it has gotten to the point where that is restricted in any way, it's already too late for that transmission.

Here's a picture...

wiper relay is at location D04 under the dash , drivers side....

Component Location

There is an old car marketplace call Hemmings Motor News which is popular but if this car is not very valuable or rare the world wide exposure won't help much so your local papers and things may work better.

As much as you care about the car you will NOT be able to decide what happens to it after you sell it. Some people buy real nice old cars just for parts so try not to get too attached.

Be sure to include all info you have on it and the price in your ad. Good luck, T

Have you consulted a reputable salvage yard for a tested exact duplicate? It should come with everything, compression test results and miles known with a warranty. If your truck is in good overall shape otherwise it would save a lot of grief. At the age you might find a whole truck with body damage or getting too rusty but has a good engine.

Have your VIN # handy if you call one as there could be mid year differences that matter or who knows? Many used parts (salvage yards) have inventoried their stock and in touch with others inventory,

T

Yea i,ve been checkin scrap yards pretty regular and craigslist. But no i havent had the compression test ran. The bodys n good shape, a lil rust on dr cab corner but ive just grown partial too it. But it may be time for a new one. Ill check on the test, butdont want to put to much more time or money into.....Thanks

What do you think it's worth with a good engine? From a rust belt area (road salt) and telling you that if you see a hole from rust now it could be hidden all over but will show its ugly face and is a vehicle killer vs what they are worth.

Sounds like you love this thing and bet you could find a better one - perhaps newer or not that doesn't need much of anything and no rust from some areas.

An engine will cost some big bucks no matter how you slice it. You said "new" and if new is in your budget you might save by doing that now but you have to decide that............

T

swaps are never easy or cheap. You always have tech problems that can cost hundreds to clear up or even stop the project dead . motor mounts, exhaust ,tranny ,clutch or converter, wiring ,linkages ,etc. anyone thing or combo can and will go wrong. If you want to save the truck ,check with a eng rebuider /machine shop. If you do the R&R it could be reasonable.

You can swap it with anything that will fit in the engine bay if you have the money and time.

Just curious, but why are you wanting to do a motor swap?