Buy Discount Mazda Parts

SO i need spark plug wires? there is a set of 4 that are all connected then this second set of 4 . the motor seems to start and run fine . So i just replace these 2 wires with new ones?

No, it won't run fine. That's a 2.3 Ford engine that take 8 spark plugs. It needs all 8 to run right. Start with plugs and wires but there may be more to that then it appears.

Thank you i use the truck for work would it be ok for me to use just for tonight till i can get it in the shop tommrow? I would need to use it for a few hours .

Should you use it one more time for work? You said it runs fine now? How long has it been like this anyway and why if you know? If a long time already if any damage (not sure) was done it's done but I can't make the decision for you.

If it's smooth, no funny odor out exhaust, steady idle with smooth flow out tailpipe you are probably ok to use it for work AYOR.

There are plugs at the other end that about can't be so happy so expect more than just a wire set to make it right,

T

Im not sure how , long its been that way i only noticed it today . It looks like the 2 wires got stuck or cut off on a wheel in there . I never noticed the truck running any different . Its very old with over 150,000 miles on it i use it for work .

PURPOSE, CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION
The Electronic Ignition System (EI) consists of a crankshaft mounted Dual Hall Sensor, two 4-tower coil packs, and an ignition module.
The EI eliminates the need for a distributor by using multiple ignition coils. Each coil fires two spark plugs at the same time. The coils are paired so that as one fires during the compression cycle the other fires during the exhaust stroke. The next time the coil is fired, the plug that fired on the exhaust stroke will fire on the compression stroke and the one that was on the compression stroke will fire on the exhaust stroke (the spark in the exhaust cylinder is wasted but little of the coil energy is lost).

Two coils are mounted together in a "coil pack". Each coil pack has two tach wires, one for each coil. Since there are two plugs per cylinder, two coil packs are required. One is called the Right Coil Pack (on right side of engine) and the other, the Left Coil Pack (left side). The Right Coil Pack and plugs operate continuously but the Left Coil Pack and plugs may be switched on or off by Electronic Engine Control processor. The Electronic Engine Control processor computes the spark angle and dwell for the ignition system.

I think you just blew his/her mind....lol.

Of course it's a judgment call. I couldn't guess how long it's been that way nor can you it seems. Need to look if some other thing is flying around that could have done that?

Old truck, JOB/WORK and a couple hours of run time for tonite? Weight the matter and use your head. The risk as I see it is if running poorly which can harm cat converter. If smooth and no odd odor it probably is ok to use it but I should never make the call for you like that. Might be making erratic sparks?

This is open web. I have to with common sense say don't use it till fixed as the primary suggestion,

T

That's you coil and plug wires.

You are right about having a problem. That piece you taped up is your air inlet ducting. If it isn't sealed your engine can draw air through it instead of through the air filter, which would allow dirt and dust to be ingested by the engine and cause it to wear out way faster than it should.


That hose coming from your valve cover to the air ducting in picture A is for your PCV system, and it also needs to be hooked up. I'd guess the missing section is because the hose deteriorated. A new one won't be expensive and you should fix it immediately along with the intake ducting.

Your airbox connection in picture B should be slid together as you have correctly pointed out. This isn't all that critical though, as all air going through that hole must pass through the air filter prior to getting to the engine.

Your stalling is likely dues to the issues in picture A. Your car has a mass airflow sensor in the ducting and the engine uses data from it to determine how much air is getting into the engine. If makes decisions on how much fuel to add based on that along with several other sensors. But with the PCV hose unhooked and the the air ducting damaged the engine is pulling in extra air that the MAF didn't read, and the ecm is getting confused when it sees the different than expected readings from the O2 sensors based on the fuel it added when it looked at the MAF reading. That extra oxygen was seen by the 02 sensor, which told the computer you were running lean and the computer added more fuel to make up for that. You need to get that fixed fast. I wouldn't drive it around while it can suck in dirty air directly into the engine. On the upside, fixing what is wrong with this can be done by a novice like yourself with simple hand tools you would commonly have around your home. A return trip to a shop would be unnecessary and the parts are inexpensive.

Get that taken care of, drive it around for a day or two and let me know how its running for you.

Thanks for detailed reply, Nick. I have noticed that my fuel economy has gone down.

When I replaced my air filter and taped the ducting, my engine check light went away. That light came on seven years ago, and my mechanic said it was for the EGR valve, which he said opened and closed too early. He said I needed a new valve, but he said the car doesn't need the part, and so we left it as it is. I always managed to somehow get the light turned off for inspections. One time I took my car in to get the problem fixed to another mechanic, and he said I didn't need a new valve, but just needed to clean it. He charged a bundle, but the light came back two weeks later. That was years ago, and when I went for an oil change recently, the mechanic said my light is on because of the air intake hose. I didn't think much of it because he didn't know the whole story, so I was surprised when the light went off today.

Anyway, I can find the air intake hose on RockAuto, what is hose coming from the valve cover called? I can't find another hose in the "Fuel/Air" section or any other appropriate hose. Is there a name for it?

Thank you so much I dont have the code was at Advance this morning. I just find it hard to believe that sensor is causing that whining noise.

I may not be around too much for some of the day but will suggest some things you could try if you can.
To me the noise could be travelling away from where you might think the source is. It's clear enough you could probably hear it with a mechanic's stethoscope or just a listening rod to your ear. Careful doing that around moving parts.


Could rule out any belt driven item by taking belt off and just run for a quick while to see if noise goes away and if so spin the items on that belt by hand for feel.


To me that noise sounded almost exactly like a small electric motor like a washer pump - power door lock size motor type something gone bad or disconnected and would have to be to spin that much but not near the engine at all. The ticking sounded like normal noise to me from injectors.


That's about it until you can peg it down more precisely. I doubt crank sensor makes that noise even if there's a problem with that circuit?


T

heres another video where it starts to make a hallow like grinding

First things first, I would get that cam sensor code resolved.

That noise is tough. Would need to be there to hear what area it is coming from. Smog pump,alternator, cooling fan, anything that moves really could make that noise, including engine components.

Sounds like a vacuum leak. If you snap the throttle, does the noise go away? Take a spray bottle with water and spray around the intake manifold. If you hit the leak, it will make a sucking noise and change pitch.

It was a huge vacuum leak between plastic intake manifold and motor. Manifold had cracked somehow

Welllllll! That would do it! Dang plastic engine parts Glad it's found and fixed,


T

The year is 2006, i bought the pump but what i would like to know is what the pump does and what the module does.

Pokepoke: This seems like the early attempt to get rid of belt driven things to make room I would think and take advantage of more control over power assist more accurately. Nice concept till it fails in some way.


DS basically has indicated or I interpreted that as this diagnosis isn't going to be very DIY friendly.


Pump makes hydraulic pressure but is electrically told when and how much force/assist to put out electrically so would watch that on a scope as he mentioned. Most wouldn't have a scope for this to diagnose where the failure is.


In short it probably isn't getting the right command for adding assist and intermittent anything unless in some memory you have to catch it in the act.


My quick look for the parts was quite discouraging for how expensive this set up is. ~ 10X what a crude set up should be IMO - that's not so smart yet but YOU have to deal with it.


This will probably run you broke guessing with what issue is where by tossing parts at it like many things that's a waste but this is more involved.


So far it isn't known if a steering part is mechanically binding or the assist isn't responding.


Choices as I see it for you are to check all parts that are involved with steering then either buy all the diagnostic equipment or get it diagnosed and do just that. If it just will not misbehave when diagnosed it's a total headache,


T

Year?

Did your mechanic troubleshoot the system and isolate it to the pump or is this a guess and assuming the pump itself is bad?

Got to remember that your power steering uses an electrical motor to drive the pump. There is also a control module in charge of operating the motor depending on information it receives from sensors and other modules. Other things besides the pump can cause those symptoms.

You hit while I was making guesses on year on this. Lots to do with it other than pump as was worked on. Not belt driven on the one shown by me,


T

Nope, not belt driven. The controller that operates the motor has diagnostic capability. Checking for trouble code in the module using a factory or enhanced scan tool would be the first step. If there are codes, might give some directions. Then bidirectional control of the motor and seeing if it fails would be the next step. The bummer is that you really can't tell if the module or motor is bad because the output from the controller is in between the module and the motor. You really can't get into there to see if the module is commanding the motor or not using a volt meter or lab scope. You could stick an inductive clamp on the feed to look at motor brushes, but that could be inconclusive too. Dumb design in my opinion.