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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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    Mopar

Best Selling Genuine Dodge Window Motors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Mopar, Genuine, Cardone
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Dodge Replacement Window Motor Parts
Dorman
1996 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-3EE629B    W0133-1670281  New

Qty:
$89.30
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • Front - Right
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Dodge Caravan
Dorman
1996 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-44F8DE4    W0133-1670280  New

Qty:
$89.30
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • Front - Left
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Dodge Caravan
Dorman
1994 Dodge Ram 3500 Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-1D1C1D8    W0133-1913186  New

Qty:
$129.33
Dorman Power Window Motor
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Dodge Ram 3500
Dorman
1997 Dodge Stratus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-1D1C1D8    W0133-1913186  New

Qty:
$129.33
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • with Stamp 4814118 on motor ( Some vehicles were built with the 4814119 Motor on the right side and 4814118 Motor on the left side. Check stamping number on motor)
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Dodge Stratus
Dorman
1995 Dodge Stratus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-1D1C1D8    W0133-1913186  New

Qty:
$129.33
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • Production: -07/12/1995, with 9 Tooth Motor
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - Dodge Stratus To:07-12-95
Dorman
1995 Dodge Stratus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-1D1C1D8    W0133-1913186  New

Qty:
$129.33
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • Production: 07/13/1995-, with 7 Tooth Motor
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - Dodge Stratus Fr:07-13-95
Dorman
2009 Dodge Caliber Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-4231496    W0133-1879000  New

Qty:
$127.70
Dorman Power Window Motor
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Dodge Caliber
Mopar
2009 Dodge Avenger Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-39BEB73    W0133-1883121  New

Qty:
$114.58
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 6 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Dodge Avenger
Genuine
2004 Dodge Stratus Power Window Motor Genuine

P311-4FEA8A6    W0133-1671624  New

Qty:
Genuine Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Left
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2004 - Dodge Stratus Coupe
Mopar
2010 Dodge Avenger Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-39BEB73    W0133-1883121  New

Qty:
$114.58
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 6-Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Dodge Avenger
Mopar
2009 Dodge Grand Caravan Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-3794D32    W0133-1883229  New

Qty:
$135.08
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 6 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Dodge Grand Caravan
Mopar
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-3794D32    W0133-1883229  New

Qty:
$135.08
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 6-Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Dodge Grand Caravan
Dorman
1994 Dodge Ram 1500 Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-38DE4F1    W0133-1669077  New

Qty:
$129.04
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Dodge Ram 1500
Dorman
1997 Dodge Stratus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-38DE4F1    W0133-1669077  New

Qty:
$129.04
  • with Stamp 4814119 on motor ( Some vehicles were built with the 4814119 Motor on the right side and 4814118 Motor on the left side. Check stamping number on motor)
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Dodge Stratus
Dorman
1995 Dodge Stratus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-38DE4F1    W0133-1669077  New

Qty:
$129.04
  • Production: 07/13/1995-, with 7 Tooth Motor
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - Dodge Stratus Fr:07-13-95
Cardone
2002 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone

P311-23F73F1    42-614  Remanufactured

Qty:
$39.90
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Window Lift Motor - Domestic Reman
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gear Included: Yes
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 3
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Instruction Sheet
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wire Or Terminal Quantity: 2
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are engineered and remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance. CARDONE evaluates original OE unit failures and weaknesses, correcting them to ensure a longer lasting product. These motors are computer tested, both as sub-assemblies and as complete units to ensure quality and reliability. A1 CARDONE engineers use the latest in technology and innovation to create high value at a low cost, providing a quality product that both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Dodge Caravan Front Left
Cardone
2007 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone

P311-08D00DF    42-454  Remanufactured

Qty:
$53.79
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Window Lift Motor - Domestic Reman
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gear Included: Yes
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 6
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Instruction Sheet
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wire Or Terminal Quantity: 2
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are engineered and remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance. CARDONE evaluates original OE unit failures and weaknesses, correcting them to ensure a longer lasting product. These motors are computer tested, both as sub-assemblies and as complete units to ensure quality and reliability. A1 CARDONE engineers use the latest in technology and innovation to create high value at a low cost, providing a quality product that both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Dodge Caravan Front Left
Cardone
2002 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor - Front Right Cardone

P311-0D5C354    42-615  Remanufactured

Qty:
$39.90
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • Window Lift Motor - Domestic Reman
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gear Included: Yes
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 3
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Instruction Sheet
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Right
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wire Or Terminal Quantity: 2
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are engineered and remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance. CARDONE evaluates original OE unit failures and weaknesses, correcting them to ensure a longer lasting product. These motors are computer tested, both as sub-assemblies and as complete units to ensure quality and reliability. A1 CARDONE engineers use the latest in technology and innovation to create high value at a low cost, providing a quality product that both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Dodge Caravan Front Right
Cardone
2002 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone

P311-3F346BF    82-614  New

Qty:
$58.68
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Window Lift Motor - Domestic New
  • New CARDONE Select Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gear Included: Yes
    • Mounting Type: Self-tapping
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 3
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Instruction Sheet
    • Product Condition: New
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wire Or Terminal Quantity: 2
  • CARDONE Select New Window Lift Motors are designed to meet or exceed OEM performance. CARDONE Select Engineers (CSE) evaluate the failure of the original OE unit and any design flaws are corrected to ensure a longer lasting product. CARDONE Select Engineers (CSE) use the latest in technology and innovation to create high value at a low cost, providing a new, quality product, that both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Dodge Caravan Front Left
Cardone
2002 Dodge Caravan Power Window Motor - Front Right Cardone

P311-27C34B6    82-615  New

Qty:
$57.35
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • Window Lift Motor - Domestic New
  • New CARDONE Select Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gear Included: Yes
    • Mounting Type: Self-tapping
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 3
    • Package Contents: Window Lift Motor, Instruction Sheet
    • Product Condition: New
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Right
    • Window Regulator Included: No
    • Wire Or Terminal Quantity: 2
  • CARDONE Select New Window Lift Motors are designed to meet or exceed OEM performance. CARDONE Select Engineers (CSE) evaluate the failure of the original OE unit and any design flaws are corrected to ensure a longer lasting product. CARDONE Select Engineers (CSE) use the latest in technology and innovation to create high value at a low cost, providing a new, quality product, that both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Dodge Caravan Front Right

Latest Dodge Repair and Window Motor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

window motor replacement

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From jsmur on window motor replacement

How do you replace a window motor on a 2004 dodge stratus?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.autozone.com/N,14300046//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm <<< Just looked at the likely part and those are usually pretty easy. Take off door panel and look for the three bolts - may require drilling a hole to access and may be indexed where to drill. That's a clear case of measure twice and cut once if needed.

This should be diagnosed carefully before you replace the motor. What are your finding so far that makes you think it's the motor?

T

Response From jsmur

I have checked the switches and wires to the motor, all are working or getting power to motor. I have changed a window motor on a 2002 stratus, but the 04 is set up different and little room to manuver. So I will have to drill out the door where the bolts for the motor are located? Not liking that much.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Remember I'm not looking at it like you are. This type motor would probably be help in by three 8mm bolts into the head/gear end of it. It may have been mounted there when new before spot welds made direct access impossible. Some you might get a ratheting box wrench at or whatever but may not be able to start them back in when replacing so a straight line shot at it can be had with drilling a hole such that a 1/4 socket can go straight in.

Know that this type motor with just two wires is reversing polarity for up or down. That could be the problem. Body of this motor may need to be grounded.

Some tricks that save a wasted job: Just look at a dome light with key on engine off such that windows should work. Hit the switch for up or down on that motor and if the light filckers or dims the motor is drawing current. If it does flicker there's a VERY high chance the motor is bad. If nothing then test the wires close to the motor for getting power and ground alternately as up or down is requested. If good to right there - motor is bad.

You have to look at how it's mounted. Perhaps the ounting area can be moved - you are there - I'm not. Sorry I don't have software programs with pics/diagrams and instructions that might be available. Some metal that would need drilling out is indexed with a center punch like ding that locates the spot.

Cool Trick related: I've needed to get very old motors out of junks and away from house power. A 9v battery (household) with jumper clips can make these things work without load on them. Good for testing them in a bone yard.

I'm trying for you. Perhaps someone else here has more exact know how for this specific car,
T
(on edit: changed if it "does" flicker from if it doesn't move which was confusing) sorry

Response From jsmur

Tom, thanks for the info.. I think I have a line on it now... I'll let ya know how it goes.. Thanks again...

1999 Dodge Caravan gauges won't work

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Nisa on 1999 Dodge Caravan gauges won't work

First off, passenger side window would not go up or down unless we would slam the door at the same time we were pushing the button and pushing on the window. Then the heater was blowing hot air but was barely blowing and then all of our gauges went out and our service engine soon light came on. We checked fuses and it seems ok. Took it to autozone to hook up to the computer and it said code P1698. Not sure what to do. Any advice?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Nisa; The window problem sounds like a poor connection at the window motor, or possibly, a bad motor. You'll need to remove the door panel to gain access to the motor. Once you are there, push the window switch. If the motor doesn't work, tap on it..lightly. If it works, you've got a bad motor. If it doesn't, try wiggling the wires at the connector. If it does, you've found the problem.
The P1698 is the DTC for the onboard engine management computer (PCM) not communicating with the transmission control computer (TCM). Along with the guages acting up, could be a ground issue. This is going to take some circuit testing to find the root of the problem. Unfortunately, not a job for a novice. Sorry.

Response From Nisa

Thanks for the advice! To bad it's ! But thanks! I'll have to see what I can do.

Broken automatic window

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From koi on Broken automatic window

1994
Buick
Skylark
Unknown (4 door/6 cylinder)
nearly 200,000!!!

Ok! Here is the next problem I have with this car. This one, I think it goes without say, is a little more complicated than a burnt up fuse. Of course, this car is old, as I have mentioned, and so far, I have had a problem with two of the windows. First, it was the front driver's side window, and that got fixed at a shop. Then, afterward, the rear passenger-side window also got stuck and won't budge up or down, regardless of what you push or how much physical effort you put into it.

Well, my dad recently bought me some tools. So, let's put them to use! How do I need to go about troubleshooting a fixing the window on my car? And notably, if even necessary, what is the easiest way to get a door open? I have had severe difficulty with it in my old car (a 93 dodge shadow).

Response From koi Top Rated Answer

I thought of some more relevant information!

Last time, the window that broke on the driver's side did the same thing as this window did: it rolled up part way, made some noises, and stopped working. Then, of course, it wouldn't budge an inch. When we got the driver-side window fixed, our mechanic told us that it was the motor that was to blame. He didn't replace it; I'm not entirely sure what he did, but he fixed it.

So in short, I think it's most likely the window motor and not the electrical connection. However, I will do as I am advised because I have never dealt with fixing this kind of problem on my own before.

Response From koi

Doot doo.

Ok. So, today, I accidentally pushed the button for the window that is broken, and it rolled down. I didn't do this before because I didn't want to compromise the security of the car by making the window get stuck lower than it was.

So the motor still works, it just gets stuck somewhere.
Why might this occur and how do I go about fixing it?
Also, I noticed a similar problem on the rear driver-side window, but to a much lesser extent. This particular window rolls up almost all the way, just about half an inch above the top of the window. How is this fixed?

(I've tried pulling up and pushing the button at the same time; it doesn't work.)

Response From clipentertainment

Its probably stuck because the motor is dead and frozen. Try getting a new window motor and putting it in. Its easy!

E. Window Acting Weird

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From stockdogger on E. Window Acting Weird

1990 Dodge B350Van-electric windows-drivers side window-when push the button for the window to go down--it seems to try and go up when the window is all the way up. I took the door panel off and can reach in and pull downward on bottom of window-till I get it started then push on top of window- while pushing the button and the window will come down-but the farther down it comes the more pressure it takes pulling downwards for the window to keep coming down while pushing the button. Let off the button, let go of the window and it will go up part way-as if releasing pressure. I’ve read something about polarity changes for the window to go up or down--do you think the switch is bad and not changing the polarity…or something else wrong. The window has been working fine and then a few times was jerky going down and now the above..any help will be appreciated…thanks, Dennis

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

WEIRD is the right choice of words! Ya - does sound like polarity is mixed up?? Dunno how that could happen without swiching wires intentionally but guess it could at the switch.

While in there you should be able to add power and ground to the unplugged motor at the last connector and make it work so at least know it operates from there. Then I can only guess the switch is screwed up. When you know what polarity works on the color of wire to the motor directly you could check what polarity is being sent to the still unplugged end with the tester. It should (general power window motors) reverse + with - and back again for up or down request,

T

Ps: Sometimes a little houshold 9v battery is enough to get the motor to nudge along with help. Don't force it against the regulator!

Response From stockdogger

Thanks for the suggestions Tom. Getting dark now but if still warm tomorrow--or when it is warm- will try doing what you said of unplugging motor and checking polarity and all...thanks again. Dennis

89 Ford LTD Crown Vic LX Wagon Won't Start

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From hugnaba on 89 Ford LTD Crown Vic LX Wagon Won't Start

89' Ford LTD Crown Vic LX Wagon.
Just quit on the road, acted like no fuel.
However, turn key, noise from pump in tank.
(listened while partner turned on the key)
Replaced fuel filter, had fuel on both sides
of the filter.

Battery/starter are both good. Starter cranks
over very fast.
When it quit, it seemed to want to start a little;
tried starting it while on the road, seemed like it
ran out of fuel, it spit a little then would not
fire at all.

Replaced fuel pump relay, no change, replaced
brain relay, no change. Still cranks over no fire.

Fuses seem to be ok. There are 2 inside a metal
case, which I'll try to replace next and of course,
see if there's fire to the plugs.

Had to have it towed home.

Anyone with a clue?

If there's no fire, brain relay/fuses are good, then??\

ECA is supposed to be LH side under dash. will be checking that as well.



Thanks

CJ

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All that and a tie rod came apart. Love the vintage of vehicle but it you didn't have a clue that was about to happen would you please stay off of public roads!

Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are you lacking fuel delivery or spark? If you like tossing parts a common failure is the module on side of distributor, requires a special 7/16th thin walled socket and the bolts will probably snap off if original creating a monster as does trying to remove the retaining sleeve to do a pick up coil in distributor.

Before you blow a ton more check for fuel pressure at rail and check for spark at a spark plug. If you have both and as you said cranks real fast check for jumped timing chain. Plastic gear if original can bust up by surprise and you'll have very low to no compression,

T

Response From hugnaba

Howdy, No fire from the coil to the distributor. No fire to the plugs, obviously. Any advice?
Before I replace the TFI, I would try replacing the coil, but something drives the coil

Response From Discretesignals

The TFI module controls the coil. Did you make sure the rotor spins in the distributor when you crank the engine?

Do you have a 12 volt test light?

Response From hugnaba

Howdy, Distributor spins. No fire from coil to the distributor. Will be testing ignition switch connections next, (tomorrow) with a test light.

Response From Discretesignals

The TFI module grounds the coil to energize it. When the module wants the coil to fire it removes the ground.


Your test light, when you probe the red/light green and dark green/ yellow wires at the coil connector, should be lit when you turn the ignition on. When you crank the engine the test light should rapidly blink on the dark green/ yellow wire. Make sure the connector is plugged in when you probe it with your test lamp.

If it doesn't blink, the module isn't doing anything. From there you have to make sure the module has power at the red/ light green wire with the ignition on at the module's connector. You should also see power at the white/ light blue wire at the module connector with the ignition on.

You could also check PIP and SPOUT to the engine computer, but you need a lab scope.

If all that checks good, you would have to test the pickup input to the module, but that is impossible because the pickup is inside the distributor connected directly to the module.

Most of the time if the module isn't signaling the coil and your powers and grounds check out , you replace the module and the pickup.

If you do go to replace the module and pickup, inspect the trigger wheel and check for excessive wobble and end play in the shaft. Make sure you mark the gear before you remove it. You'll need a puller to get the gear off, so you can slide the shaft out to replace the pickup. If it looks really rusty in there, you could always get a reman distributor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Test away as DS suggests to prove it. By far the most common no spark will be that module on the side once misstated held on by incorrect size - it's 7/32nds thin walled socket to a bolt that will break if anything near original by now.

Up front they get wet, hot and originally covered by a boot nobody replaced because it wouldn't stay in place again when this was 10 years old never mind now. This pick up coil requires pulling the gear. The slightest shellac on shaft will be a problem.

The reman distributor will not come with a new module or none known did.

If you diagnose this out this is one item I would and did go get used at salvage yards you could pick your own. See the vehicle that it was 'junked' for some other reason than not running and take the whole distributor just a FORD timing wrench, twist and it's out.

Own and drive this engine exactly right now. I carry a whole dist and timing wrench as a spare known working used if out in no place can swap it on location or earlier would use that for a broken down same one and fix that one at my own leisure. Set timing later but you can get it close enough if you have a clue watching dist rotor when removing and put back in same position as it drops into place.

Timing TMK were all 10 degrees BTDC with plug removed nearby as originally shown on a decal underhood. By Now you probably can't read marks on harmonic balancer so an advance timing light helps to set exactly.

These were common surprises or lasted forever. Forever is now no doubt but they would do this when just a few years old too.

Other common was the dang plug in connections which will fool testing. Dunno why but the connectors either lasted forever or failed early. So common with these that swap-tronics (had spares known good) was faster than finding test equipment.

You should have dielectric grease on hand just plain anyway but is needed for the things to last. Silicone grease is the same thing.

Basic view if it shows of distributor out is like this.......


If vehicle has accident history or butchered wiring at the age this could be a goose chase but those were the common reasons for no spark in my experience with millions of miles on this exact engine used in many models of Ford products in the general era of age of the things,

T

T

Response From hugnaba Top Rated Answer

Howdy.

The TFI module was the culprit. I also changed the
fuel filter/ignition switch, (which was creating some
of the aggravation) and the distributor rotor, which
I mangled by not paying attention.

Took the TFI to my auto parts store where they
tested it. Didn't pass. 60.99 + tx got me one
a day later. It was disgusting. The engine fired and
ran like a top first click of the starter. So much aggravation
from such a small part. Had to pull the distributor,
and the 7/32" bolts did not break, even though they
were 24yrs old. Used a sharpie to mark the position
of the rotor and the distributor housing to make sure
I had the same timing. Apparently did not (yet) have
to pull the magnet thing out of the distributor and
did not have to replace the fuel pump.
I like the idea of having a spare distributor to carry.
Especially since the car just up and quit in the middle
of the road. Fortunately, had roadside/tow on my
insurance and it was less than a mile home. Don't
know what it would have turned out like if those
blessings were not there.

Another blessing: had a tie-rod joint come apart,
fortunately in friend's driveway. I was able to
replace the whole link on the passenger side between
the wheel and the center link and align it enough to
get it home and to the shop to get it realigned.
Turned out to be a joint that had very little grease
in it, and the ball popped out of the socket. It was
the only joint in the system that was that way.
Glad it did not happen on the highway @ 70mph.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice/tips/etc.
I am eternally grateful, as without this and YouTube,
the advice/help of the mechanic who usually does
my inspections, the manual I ordered from Helm Inc.
and a wiring/vacuum diagram manual ordered from
another company and the patience of my Wife, I
could not have conceived of doing this. My last
mechanic Gig was working at Dodge in 1977.
I've worked on Dodge/Chev/Ford/Opel/VW/Datsun/
Toyota/Kawasaki/Harley motorcycles on my own,
as I had to, but it's something that others are much
better at.

Anyone with a 93' Ford Ranger?

Had the unusual (my term) experience of the brake
line along the left rail rust out. Had to splice the line
with a connector couple yrs ago. Has not had a problem
with the splice, but,,,I replaced the left wheel cylinder
and used new brass fasteners (double flared the new lines)
and they leak. A friend/mechanic told me to use the old
nuts as there was something strange about the way they
fit. So I will have to reflare and replace the lines going to
the fittings on the cylinder and on the rear axle to stop
this. Hopefully it will work this time.

This was my Dad's car, left me after he passed.
So far the biggest complaint about this model Ford
is the electrical system seems to be going South.
He did take good care of this automobile when he
owned it. Time and wear take a toll on things.
Still have to replace power window motors, door
lock actuators, rear tailgate locks/window motors,
Check out dome light ghosts, Radio has no sound,
just lots of little time consuming electrical stuff.
But, this car will do 75-90 all day long on the highway
without a hiccup and ride smooth. Gets decent mileage
close to the specs around 18-22, sometimes better on
long trips. Did have an apparent vacuum leak somewhere,
I'll have to check out.

BTW, Ignition switch held in by 2 tamper proof Torx head
screws. 5 self tapping screws underneath column to take
out to get at the ignition switch. Those who know; the
tamper proof torx have a hole in the end to accomodate
a pin sticking up in the middle of the screw head.

Found out (too late) on YouTube that to replace the window motors
you have to drill three holes in the interior metal of the door to get
at the bolts to remove the motor. There was no way I could get a
wrench of any kind (at the time) in the gap between window and
motor, (that I knew of). Ended up taking motor out in pieces and
bracing up the window track to hold it in place. Sometimes Ford
didn't have a better idea.

Thanks

Hope to return the favor in the future.

Response From Discretesignals

The biggest improvement to that system was when they moved the TFI module to the fender. When they did that you rarely saw a module fail.

Usually the TFI would stop working when it got hot. You could pour a glass of water on it and usually get it working again. Replaced a lot of pickup coils on those.

Response From Hammer Time

If he had completed the testing we would know if we should be looking at the pick up coil or not.

Response From hugnaba

Found out, no spark at the left rear plug. Had a mechanic friend predict it might be the TFI module on the side of the distributor. Looks like I have to pull the distributor to remove it according to the shop manual I ordered. As you said, got to be careful with the bolts. Thanks. I have fuel both sides of the fuel filter and the pump makes noise when the key is turned on. Please send any other clues in case this one doesn't work. No fuses or relays appear to be at fault. Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Thanks. I have fuel both sides of the fuel filter and the pump makes noise when the key is turned on.

That doesn't mean squat. You need to use a fuel pressure gauge and you also need to do the rest of the testing before buying anything.

Response From hugnaba

Howdy. It still could be the TFI module then. Will test the ignition switch, since I have had some trouble with it. It seems there is a sweet spot that has to be found to make sure the AC & turn signals to work.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From hugnaba

Thanks. I will keep all this information and use it if I can't find anything else. I found no spark at the left rear plug wire. Going to try replacing the TFI module on the distributor. Probably should try testing the
coil as well. Thanks