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I looked up a transmission filter on-line for my 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 and there was a footnote that the trans had to be totally dismantled to perform the filter change??? (NAPA) Is this correct??
A/Trsax Filter (Filter Only)
Product Line: NAPA Automatic Transmission Parts
Comments: Filter Change Requires Complete Disassembly of Transmission
Per Car Qty.: 1
YIKES! Checked Autozones site and nothing listed? Haven't worked on one of these so really can't guess exactly what that means?? If you are supposed to be doing this as per owner's manual in routine maintenance I'd need a new set of shorts about now!
Basics on this: If you are really supposed to tear down entire transmission for a $20 dollar filter - I quit. Something is messed up with the info on this. Bet it's just a screen and not a real filter but guessing.
IMO - for the most part if a trans filter is really clogged with junk the trans is junk. For that matter if you really were to teardown 10,000 parts why wouldn't you just overhaul it?
What is really suggested in owner's manual for service? You didn't say 4X4 or 2X4 which could matter and NAPA didn't ask?? If there's a known drain plug I'd think about changing the fluid - the exact amount that came out.
Check manual and I can't wait what the others will say on this. Haven't run into it yet. Watch out before you do this. Filling it may have oddball ways and you could get stuck,
more and more vehicles are going to this now, where the filter is in the case and only replaced in overhauls. They want you to just have it flushed with a machine and not be servicable.
I have a 1994 Ford Crown Victoria, Engine 4.6 L, 12000 Miles with Automatic Transmission.
The car runs fine on High way, however notably when the weather is hot , after running couple of miles at speed between 45 -60 the transmission goes momentarily into neutral, the engine revs high and re engages , this is repeated for few miles and then the car runs fine and this can happen again. I hear that other owner of this kind of car have met similar problems with the transmission. the majority recommended the replacement of the TR/MPL sensor. How may I replace this sensor if needed. Also I have check the code and came to MPL sensor above or below operating voltage.
I would appreciate an opinion or help.
You mean 120,000 miles? Not so sure that totally matter @ ~19 years old now. A or B - try diagnosing trans overall at a trans specialty shop. This may have troubles keeping pressure up which actuated most of the wearing components. This slipping in and out of drive can't be good for it no matter what the cause.
Only sensor I found was a pressure control solenoid and that there were possible multiple types of automatics used so can't expound much,
The MLP is located on the drivers side of the transmission. It is bolted behind the shift linkage. There is a couple of marks that need lined up when in neutral. First thing to do is check fluid level and condition. Low fluid could cause that problem. Also a loose transmission filter may cause your concern.
I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
Ive only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldnt pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot contiually reving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral.
Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position.
I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor.
Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didnt know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vaccum leak, but wouldnt it throw on my check engine light?
I am happy to provide any more details as I am desperate for help and will LOVE YOU forever for ur assistance as this is my only car and daily driver, manually shifting everywhere I go is a definite pain and sometimes 3rd doesnt catch right away which Im sure could lead to even more problems. Thanks in advance <333333
Edit: I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesnt have any bad or burnt odor
"I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor."
Well? Why not let them actually look at it?
As for trans filter if that is clogging the trans is done with IMO.
I'd check motor mounts to know engine sits in proper place without abnormal movement most just observe with hood open if alone shifting, brakes applied firmly in place shift forward to reverse and watch it with a reasonable fight with throttle. If it seems too much with a helper you should be able to see which one(s) might be trouble.
Noise? A noisy vacuum leak would almost certainly cause the engine to run poorly and set a code. At least visually check vacuum items and air intake parts are all good and in place. Not totally sure if vacuum leak if real is the cause of what you described with trans shift or feeling like neutral. That so far seems linkage is just not behaving and that/those trans shops seemed to be familiar with it over the phone so let them look right at it and point out the issue if obvious would save you a lot of grief guessing,
Thank you for your response. Can you answer me this, as unfortunatly I dont have a properly functioning car to make comparison. The lever the linkage connects to that is actually on the transmisson. (maybe its called the transmission range sensor) From outside the car watching the lever, when I put the car in drive and its not moving, should the lever be in the same position it would be when I put the car in 1st gear or should it be the same as when the car is in neutral
Sorry if I'm misunderstanding you. I take it you can at least think you have it in DRIVE coming from park, passing neutral and it's still in neutral but if you go down the range to lower gears and back it will stay in DRIVE - are we on the same page?
If so I think the linkage is just enough stretched or off/worn in a way that has it just on the edge of correct and defaults to neutral. If so I would think you could just nudge it more just a bit towards lower gears and it would engage. I'm just not sure if that can be adjusted better or new parts would be the fix for that if it's exactly like that.
There were other models older than this goofy things were so common to all similar models folks and techs would either replace lots of shift parts or some folks just learned to put up with it but I do NOT know of this car to be one of those so there's something to be either adjusted or replaced is about all I can say without observing this in person,
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT and it just won't start. I have done a spark test, fuel pressure test, checked all the sensors and the engine won't start. It cranks over smoothly so it's not a timing problem. I did a noid light test on the injectors and they didn't light. Could this be it or is there something I'm overlooking. Please Help!!!
When you crank the engine over the noid light should flash. If it flashes the injector pulse is ok. If the light does not flash check to make sure there is battery power at the injector harness. If there is power, check for spark. If there is no spark and no injector pulse, suspect there is no tach signal at PCM.
Could you possibly further explain why I am not getting a tach signal at the PCM? I am still in school and have not learned everything I need to know. Sorry if this inconviences you. But the help is much appreciated. Thanks and Merry Christmas!!!
Before we jump to confusions, did you perform the tests I mentioned in the last post? We can only conclude there is no tach signal if there is power at the injectors, power to the coil, the injectors are not pulsing and the coil is not firing. The tach signal would either be a crank sensor on a DIS vehicle or a pickup on a distributor vehicle. Do the tests, post the results, and tell us what engine is in the truck. That would help immensely.
Okay. I re-did the spark test on a different plugs. I found this time that these plugs were only sending a small spark, so I will be replacing them. There is power going to the injector harness, but there is no pulse at the injector. As I previously said the cranksensor checked out fine. What is a DIS and pickup on a distributor? The engine is a 4.6L. Hope this helps you help me. Thanks.
Have you checked all the fuses with a test light? Under the hood and under the dash. A blown fuse can cause your problem.
I have checked every single fuse in the truck and under the hood. But I still can't determine what is wrong. Can you help me, please?
Hello Sarah. Would you please post the fuel pressure readings? Also any other readings you may have. The more information we have, the better we can assist you. You have to remember, you need to be our eyes, ears, and hands on this truck. Can you give us a little history on the truck? Any recent repirs, any funny acting things, noises, or anything that you may remember about it. What did the truck do when it died and wouldn't restart? Sorry about the questions, but to repair it, we need all the information you can give us. May take a little longer, but probably be cheaper.
Well the latest news is that my mother couldn't wait any longer for me to fix it so she sent it to a repair shop. Apperently the problem was a fuel injection sensor. I didn't even know there was a fuel injection sensor. But I appreciate the help on the truck, but I need help on another vehicle. I have a Chevy Astro Mark III and it keeps making this whining noise. I have checked the power steering and that's not it. I just changed the transmission filter because a neighbor who is a retired mechanic said that was it. That didn't fix the noise. Can you give me some advice as to what this noise could be.
Newly acquired hooptie for my daughter. Nice fixerupper. Main issue before she gets her hands on this..... is the transmission. Mostly it is fine, occassinally it will slip ONLY while turning? What up? My first thought is a clogged transmission filter? For the expense and the effort I got little to lose? Any thoughts?
I assume you have already checked the fluid level because that is what it sounds like.
Yes, the fluid is checked. It is black....so let's keep our fingers crossed. Only slips when turning, otherwise fine. Thanks for the great response as usual.
FYI, I worked on cars out of necessity as a teenager. As a result, I drove better than average wheels. Although I got away from the dirt and grease, I always liked my cars, and never lost my confidence that good mechanix and patience provides results. I am now 57 yo and been kicked around in life. I am back to the necessity thing, but today I have a Saviour!!!! Faith, good mechanix, and patience will come thru everytime. Because of CarJunky I am really ENJOYING myself, and find that I am eager to invest in tools and knowledge. I am unafraid to tackle auto mechanix, patience with diagnosis, good information, solid plans, safety first, and friends. Thank you CarJunky and all the contributors and facilitators!!!!!!!!!!!God Bless everyone!!
Now I am out to the garage.
If the fluid is black, that trans is pretty much used up. That is clutch material that turns it that color.
Got a AT filter kit & some fluid. Drained about 3 qts of fluid (measured out) and dropped the AT pan. First thing: one of the 2 magnets was out of place and jammed up in a perpedicular fashion. Nothing was bent or broken or appeared out of place. Although the fluid was black, it seems thicker than it looks. Crankcase oil that color seems like water.
Anyways, put it all back. Put fliuid back in. AND??????.....no slip.....then slipped a little... then no slip... then all is good? That was 3 days ago. I have driven it everyday since....no slip. Straight (never was a problem) or in a turn (original problem)....no more slip. Cold or warm, no slip.
Now this may or may not be associated, but this hooptie purrs like a kitten in park. A bit rough when it is cold, but after it warms up it idles fine. But falters once placed in gear (forward or reverse) if I keep it alive it runs great. Of course, slowing down for a turn it will stumple, and, at an intersection we need to use Neutral to keep it alive. Although this performance can be associated with the AT, I hestiate to go that far (wishful perhaps) since it now shifts like a 2013, OD or otherwise. In fact, I believe if the OD engages it is a sign of an operational torque converter?
I changed the Cap&rotor, spray cleaned the throttle plate, double checked the MAF, pulled the various relay connections and cleaned with Elec. Spray Cleaner, checked vac leaks (none evident).
OD means any gear ratio higher than 1:1. OD on a four speed automatic is 4th gear. Lock up and OD are not the same. Lock up means the torque converter clutch has engaged. The transmission doesn't have to be in OD for the TCC to lock up unless it was something like a Ford AOD. Infact, 125C is a prime example. The 125C is a three speed with no OD, but it does have an electronically controlled TCC.
Black burnt fluid means transmission clutch components are slipping. That produces a lot of heat. I am sure there some smoked clutches in that, but time will tell if the problem rears its ugly head again.
So an improvement with just 3 qts new ATF. I still think this trans is burned up just by fluid color. If you want to toss some buck get the entire amount of fluid out for new.
It may be sloshing to one side, and pump can't pick up enough fluid so slips would explain it but it may have already killed this trans no matter what the cause was first. Your call,
I agree, you definitely got a hooptie...or more like pooptie. Fluid black and burnt, so is your wallet.