More Discount Ford Parts


Latest Ford Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1955 Ford

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From malnakiska on 1955 Ford

Can anyone tell me what size engine was in the 1955 Ford Custom. It was a straight stick with overdrive. Thanks!!!

Response From Guest

1955 Ford customline standard was 223 i/l 6. Most likely had a 272 V8 because of the o'drive, but the 272 was still an option. This car got 26 high way per gal of gas on reg with the 272. They rode and handled great, eat your heart new cars, cost $1800.00 to $1900.

Response From ted2451

v-8 were 272, 292,312

Response From Guest

v8 try 272 312 fender mark would a y with 8 in middle

Response From carjunky

I Believe it was a 6-cyl / V8 engine

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There were probably choices for the cubic inch displacment for that car. You probably can't tell by just looking at it and back then (if I'm correct) the vin # won't help you. There should be a marking on the engine and I hope someone will jump in here as I really don't know where you should look.

Unless you know the total history it may NOT be the engine that came new with the car. I don't have books that go back quite that far but could hook you up with someone who restores cars and could say in a second.

If all fails go to Hemmings Motor News.com in Bennington, VT. Good luck, T

Response From carjunky Top Rated Answer

Check out this 55 chevy engine, was redone nicly. 1955 Chevy Bel Air

ford aerostar 94

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on ford aerostar 94

I have a 94 ford aerostar and cant find the horn relay

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

tabarnaak....

87 ford bronco

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From craiga. on 87 ford bronco

I have an 87 ford bronco and was wondering if you can use parts from a ford f-150 (including doors) to repair it?

Response From Hammer Time

No, I doubt the doors will fit. There may be a few things off the engine you can use but not much.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

HT - Maybe! That's when Ford couldn't make up its mind what to name what. This is an 87 Bronco and looks a lot like the "F" series trucks. There was another they called Bronco then quickly called it Bronco II.

See it this shows and before anyone wastes time ask a good junkyard as they have the crossover software for parts,



T

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

here is a link to a site that shows quite a few parts for both models with the same p/n given.

1980-96 Ford Truck/bronco - Door - Door Windows,motors & Parts

95 ford mustang runs on 4 cylinders

Showing 3 out of 25 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From vw200486 on 95 ford mustang runs on 4 cylinders

hi i have a 95 ford mustang 3.8 6 cylynder it has a rebuilt engine in it and it wont run right.

my problem is that its only giving spark to 4 cylinders ive tryed everything to fix the problem ive changed the ignition control modual, the pcm, the coil, the cranshaft positioning sensor and nothing seems to change it, and when you pull the plug wires off to check for spark the spark is red not blue like it should be.

Response From DanD

Lose the links in your post so I don’t feel like I’m reading spam and maybe we’ll take a closer look at the problem.
Sorry if I'm out of line but I hate spam.
Dan.

Response From vw200486

its not spam i just copied and past from another forum that put loose links in it when i posted it

Response From DanD

This “red spark” is it on all cylinders or just the two that are not running. The two cylinders that are not running are they on the same coil in the coil pack?
One and five, two and six, three and four are how they’re paired.
Dan.
PS: sorry about the spam comment.

Response From vw200486

3 and 6 have no spark at all and the others have the red spark, maybe its orange

Response From DanD

Check the ignition wires that they are not mixed and that they are not open; test with an ohmmeter.
With you saying that the two cylinders not getting spark are on two different coils, tells us that the computer is capable of firing the three coils so it’s not a control issue.
With this system it’s real important that the paired cylinders secondary ignition components are in good shape for example if numbers two and four secondary ignition wires or spark plugs are open you could in theory lose spark on three and six.
This coil you replaced was it a new coil or was it a previously enjoyed (used) one?
Dan.

Response From DanD

Ok ignore what I just posted or at least some of it. LOL

Response From vw200486

all the parts i replace wer brand new except the pcm

Response From vw200486

i also noticed that the 1 of the 3 yellow wires were not flashing when i put a test light in the connection im guessing it the on for cylinders 3 and 4

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Start checking the primary wiring for opens, pushed out terminals in the connectors of the module or the computer.
This may take hands on to find the problem but here's a partial wiring diagram showing the coil, ignition module and a bit of the computers terminals.
Dan.



Response From vw200486

i dont know if this helps but there was voltage at the wire that wasnt flashing . the test light came on but it did not flash

Response From DanD

It’s starting to sound like there’s an open in the yellow/red wire between the coil pack and ignition module or a bad module?
If you were to back probe the yellow/red wire at the ignition module, do you still have power there with the ignition in the run position or cranking?
What’s happening with the other two coils during cranking is that when the module grounds the yellow/black (coil 1&5) or the yellow/white (coil 1&6) the voltage drop across the coils primary windings is using up all the available voltage and the test light goes out.
For some reason that isn’t happening with coil 3&4 that’s why I’m thinking that there isn’t a good connection or a break in the wire between that coil’s primary windings and the ignition module or the module is bad.
So check whether there’s power on the yellow/red at the module?
You can use a safety pin or a paper clip as a back probe to slide between the wire and the back of the module’s connector. Slide the pin in far enough that you know that you’re touching the actual terminal inside the connector. Try not to use the pointed probe of your test light and poke a hole in the wire’s insulation. Yes it’ll give you a quick answer as to whether there’s power but you’ve now exposed the wire to the weather; it will corrode and give you more problems in the future.
Dan.

Response From vw200486

ok there is power to the yellow red wire while its running but unlike the others there is no flashing to excite the coil to produce spark
thers also a pink wire on the modual tha does not have any power at all.... i think it cal SPOUT on the wiring diagram. so what do i check next.

Response From DanD

Is the module the new one or the original?
Regardless of which I would try another if that doesn’t do it we may have to call in the big guns and get Way2old involved because I’m running out of ideas.
Oh Tom we may need your help here!!!!!
Dan.

Response From vw200486

i pulled te moduaal out of a running mustang my friend had and if i were to buy a new 1 it would be like 500 bucks i disnt even pay that much for the car

Response From way2old

I am reading this thread with lots of interest. Just to humor an old man, are the plugs in good shape? If all the coils are outputting weak spark, it either has to be PCM, Module or a ground problem. I have seen sensors short internally to ground and cause wierd running or no start problems. I will keep thinking and research it and will add more as I am sure of things. Good job so far Dan and to vw200486, it is good to work with someone that is willing to follow advice.

Response From vw200486

im gonna borrow a scanner from a friend and ill get back to you guys


oh i also noticed that the battery light was on but the alternator is charging fine

Response From vw200486

i was wondering if you have anymore of those wiring diagrams

on the car it looks like theres 2 grounds missing on g100

Response From DanD

I’m not sure what you’re asking the diagram above show’s G100; a different diagram isn’t going to show you anything different?
Dan.

Response From vw200486

ok friend wouldnt let me borrow the scanner but..... i noticed the icm droped a cylinder and now the car dosnt runn at all so im thinking i gotta fork out the money for a new icm... i put the old one on and it was back to firing on 4 cylinders so ill get back to ya guys when i put another one on

Response From vw200486

well i put a new icm on the peice of crap and the thing still runs on 4 cylinders im about to give up

Response From vw200486

i was just told that it could be the harmonic balancer if its cracked or damaged it could make it run on 4 cylinders....what do you think?

Response From vw200486

alll the tests ive been doing when the car is running, but the thing idles like its running on 6 cylinders, srry i didnt get back to you earlier it got to dark her and couldnt see the wires...lol

Response From DanD

Everything I said about the secondary ignition components still stands; you could try switch plugs around and see if the loss in spark follows a spark plug.
Or better yet test for spark right at the coil terminals of three and four; test both towers at the same time.
Dan.

Response From vw200486

i mean 3 and 4

1989 Ford 150 Econoline van

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From whisperingeagle on 1989 Ford 150 Econoline van

I am trying to find a breakdown of the distributor for our 1989 Ford 150 Econoline van, with a 4.9 liter 6 cylinder engine. My husband is doing repair and has replaced the ICM and now needs to replace the pickup. He needs a diagram that shows how the distributor come apart so he can put it back together. If you have this please email me at: whispering55eagle@yahoo.com, Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1. These are dirt cheap used by now whole!

2. If the six is like the 5.0 the thrust bushing thing (limits the up and down shaft movement) comes of when a roll pin is removed and whole shaft will slide out for replacement of the pick-up. I've had quite a fight with that thing sliding off the shaft and broken them and haven't found just that peice alone to replace.

Note: Just my own stats - 95% of distributor failures for these is the gray module on the side and those little bolts (special tool) can break off flush easily too so better so break up the module and still have the little bolt stud to try to remove if those are rusted or before you break them,

T

Response From whisperingeagle

Hi Tom,

Thank you for your response, I have printed it so that my husband can read it when he comes back inside.

Debi

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ah HA! Team effort - way to go debi

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

See if this helps.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Excellent Mr. way2old. I didn't see "thrust bushing thingy" mentioned in the diagram

T

Response From way2old

I think the picture has it named wrong. I think the picture has it named as plastic washer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Sorry to badger this but the diagram IS different than the dist for the V8 and probably is. By chance I haven't happened on the dist for the 4.9 six and guessed it was similar. Just looked at one in my shop (for 5.0 V8) and for those a roll pin is used at both the gear and the washer that prevents upward movement of the whole shaft. So for debi and husband - the idea is that the shaft that has the gear on the lower end and the rotor at the top end has to come out to work on the distributor whether it uses roll pins or snap rings doesn't really matter and just a glance will tell.

Note: Some snap rings are well hidden and don't have the eyelet ends and many are directional! Watch out for that as there can be a microscopic difference in the edge facing the part to be secured - I'll call it "beveled" and I don't think it's critical for a dist but is for other things mechanical around vehicles in general - belt driven pulleys and U-joints to name two,

T