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KYB
1987 Mercury Tracer Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-2DF87C3    W0133-1618219  New

Qty:
$77.30
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Rear - Right
Brand: KYB
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Vehicle
1987 - Mercury Tracer
KYB
1987 Mercury Tracer Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-132FE48    W0133-1617850  New

Qty:
$77.30
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Rear - Left
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Mercury Tracer
KYB
1996 Mercury Tracer Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-5E45563    W0133-1615649  New

Qty:
$80.95
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Front - Right
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel BrakeABS
1996 - Mercury Tracer LTS Non-ABS
KYB
1996 Mercury Tracer Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-4FE5FD9    W0133-1616416  New

Qty:
$80.95
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Front - Left
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel BrakeABS
1996 - Mercury Tracer LTS Non-ABS
KYB
1999 Mercury Tracer Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-1FF8F42    W0133-1615634  New

Qty:
$85.33
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Rear - Right
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle BrakeABS
1999 - Mercury Tracer Non-ABS
KYB
1995 Mercury Sable Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-533D26F    W0133-1616381  New

Qty:
$81.23
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Front
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mercury Sable
KYB
2000 Mercury Mystique Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-258D81F    W0133-1611942  New

Qty:
$127.28
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Rear
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mercury Mystique
KYB
1997 Mercury Mystique Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-258D81F    W0133-1611942  New

Qty:
$127.28
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Production: 03/1997-
  • Rear
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Mercury Mystique Fr:03-00-97
KYB
2000 Mercury Mystique Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-19BD92D    W0133-1613078  New

Qty:
$118.16
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Front
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mercury Mystique
KYB
1997 Mercury Mystique Suspension Strut Assembly KYB

P311-19BD92D    W0133-1613078  New

Qty:
$118.16
KYB Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Excel-G
  • Production: 03/1997-
  • Front
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Mercury Mystique Fr:03-00-97

Latest Mercury Repair and Struts Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 Mercury Sable - rear wheels "falling off"

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From liquidctv on 1997 Mercury Sable - rear wheels "falling off"

I have a 1997 Mercury Sable sedan FWD, with about 130k, that I was driving last summer. The rear wheels were making whirring and wobbling noises that got progressively worse over the summer. On a whim, I replaced the wheel bearings (sealed units), but this had no effect.

Well, the final straw came when I backed out of a parking space, and the left rear wheel wouldn't turn at all. I had to back out with the wheel rubbing against the pavement.

Whatever is holding up the wheels - shocks, struts - has failed. The car is off the road now, but I would like to fix it in the spring. Just want to know where to start, as I have never worked on a suspension before.

Response From melkinny360

The problem is that certain rear suspension subframe components — which were ..... Ford is recalling almost 700000 Mustang and Taurus and Mercury Sable models .... The recall covers vehicles made between 1997 and March 2001 and may not ..... which could cause vibration or result in the wheel and tire falling off.
***********
melkinny

Response From Hammer Time

The problem is that certain rear suspension subframe components — which were ..... Ford is recalling almost 700000 Mustang and Taurus and Mercury Sable models .... The recall covers vehicles made between 1997 and March 2001 and may not ..... which could cause vibration or result in the wheel and tire falling off.
***********
melkinny

I checked and find no such recall at all. Let's get our facts right before posting stuff like that.

Response From Nathan47

Fix what's broken! But if it needs struts or brake work or whatever just make sure you do it to both sides. If one side is broken the other side will go soon.

Response From liquidctv

Well, I am going to fix both sides. But it was broken anyway, so I don't think driving it made much of a difference. The car is off the road now.

It will roll forwards as before, with a lot of noise. Just wondering what would make the wheels stick. Struts?

Response From Hammer Time

You're not going to find the answer to that on the Internet. The car needs to be inspected to find out what happened.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

"But it was broken anyway, so I don't think driving it made much of a difference."<<

An accident could have killed someone or more! Never mind the car - get it inspected for why it's doing this and fix it. Good - don't drive it as you said till all is well,

T

Response From Hammer Time

You start but getting a thorough inspection by a competent tech to find out what has happened to it. You already made one serious mistake by continuing to drive it until something broke.

1998 Mercury Mystique frame part cracked & new cat help.

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From dethtrap3245345 on 1998 Mercury Mystique frame part cracked & new cat help.

link from a different forum and hoping for more help here. thanks.

(links especially to another forum not allowed. Read forum rules and post the pic directly if needed)

Response From MarineGrunt

In order to see your pictures on the other forum we'd have to register. Why don't you just post them here? Just use an image hosting site such as photobucket and paste the image code. The link of the forum you posted is going to be deleted once a mod sees it first thing in the morning.

You're probably not going to find a cheaper cat than the one on ebay. Even if you found one for $35 you'd probably have to pay shipping.

You really need to use new gaskets. They don't cost much.

If you're nervous about climbing under a lifted vehicle I'd definitely recommend taking it somewhere. If you ever do get under a vehicle never use just a jack. You have to properly support it with jack stands. The exhaust bolts will more than like break off due to the age of the vehicle and considering you're in an area that uses salt on the roads in the winter. I'm sure they're pretty rusty. It's possibly they'll need cut off with a torch.

Get the images posted here and we will try and help you on what to do with the cracked part.

Response From dethtrap3245345

Hi.
2 problems:

Cat:
I keep failing emisions. I get error codes P0420 & P0430 = I need a new cat. Tried Guaranteed to Pass added to a tank of gas=failed. I added another Guaranteed to Pass to only an eighth of a tank and revved it at 3K rmps in park for 40 mins and still got the fail codes. It's illegal for junkyards to sell used cats. Anything cheaper than this Eastern Catalytic Converter 70316 for $52.98 Free Shipping on ebay?
Is there a cheaper place for these? I think I've seen them for like $35 free shipping.
I don't want to risk wasting my time trying to scrub and clean the existing one. Is that all i need, or I need the whole bigger cat assembly? My mechanic said he'll change it out for $75, but he doesn't weld. This looks like it needs welding. If it's just bolts, I might do it, although I'm a bit scared to be honest being under the car jacked up banging and breaker bar'ing out these frozen nuts even with liquid wrench and the car on spikes and other added support.
I think I'll risk not buying new gaskets.

bar cracked:
Was driving at 50mph. Thought I had a blow out at first, then felt real bad like a square wheel. Can't drive over 5mph without car rumbling like crazy.
I can't figure out the name of the part that cracked to find a replacement. One junk yard told me on the phone it's the lower controll arm and wants $100 for a used one. ? I don't think it's that part. It's simply a metal bar about 3' long and 1/4" thick connected by two bolts. I might change it out myself if I switch the cat. The broken one is the rear passenger one. The car has two of these major support bars to each wheel. The one that broke is just a flat bar, the other of the two per wheel is more elaborate.

Thank you very much for your help

Response From dethtrap3245345

photobucket link. please allow.

http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/dethtrap3245345/library/?page=1#/user/dethtrap3245345/library/?sort=3&page=1&_suid=137718928212502933321549736121

Response From Tom Greenleaf

See if I can show the strut bar/control arm broken......



Never mind the cat - you shouldn't be driving this car with that like that then worry about the cat,

T

Response From Discretesignals

This car looks like it is ready for the bone yard.

Response From dethtrap3245345

^ I asked the mechanics how much to junk it, they said only 200. i think i got way more than that for a seized 95 camry i stripped sellable parts from. Maybe I'll strip this car to ebay parts and try to get the most for what's left. I can get a good deal on a car for 1K with only 50K original miles, it's a 90's car, but an older lady's, so I guess she never drove it.

I can't even sell this Mystique for like 500. I paid I think 2K at 115K miles and it only has like 135K now. It's a death trap really. The inner outer tire rod in the front has always bee wiggly along with bad stuts= hit a tiny pothole doing only 25mph on a wet turn driving completely normal= it still makes the front tire wiggle out and loose controll of the car I found out the hard way shortly after buying the car when almost had a head on and went off the road into bushes. Wet or not, basically any little bump in the road can potentially fish tail the car but I learned how to drive it and take it slow. I would never not tell a buyer about this, and writing up an ad about this problem along with everything else wrong (fuses are good, but no interior light or radio, no AC, doro doesn't unlock with key from passenger side, just a whole bunch of things like that= I don't think I could sell it for more than scrap.


I haven't been driving it with the broken part. It's not drivable above like 5mph.

i just idled to my mechanic shop to find out what the part is. He told me it would cost 75 from a junked car and 55 labor and it'd be done today, so i went with that. I'd still like to know the name of the part because i'd imagien it only costing like $10 from a junkyard or $35 w/ shipping new on ebay. Mechanic said he didn't know name and their is lotsa names for it maybe just covering his arse if he over-charged me for the part.

Also, is it just a simple job of spraying the nuts with an unlocker like liquid wrench and unscrewing them with a breaker bar and re-installing the two bolts?




For the cat I need fixed:
I already got one ticket (a day after I failed the second time after Guarantted to Pass didn't work, and i showed the cop the failed papers). My inspection is months past due.

My o2 sensor is before the catalytic converter, so even if i change it out, won't i still fail? The mechanic said I need to change out the whole thing not just the canister for 75 + the part. But, again, he doesn't weld though. What's the cheapest way I can fix this? A garage that welds and/or an emmisions specialist?
I just need the car drivable for now, and agree it's time to get rid of it. A shame that fixing the inner outer tire rod (youtube videos make it seem quite simple to do) and struts would cost as much as it's worth to break even selling, engine has always ran like new.
thanks.

Response From Discretesignals

$130 to replace the catalyst? I am sure with the amount of rust you got under there, getting the exhaust system off to remove the catalyst is going to be a nightmare. There is no telling if it is going to work until it is put on the vehicle and the catalyst monitor runs.

You have to figure if you broke a link because it rusted through, there are probably other components that are going to fail and with drastic consequences that are going to get you or someone else killed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DS - that's nothing for rust if just that. It's where else it is.

OP - perhaps just me but get the heck off the web for parts if you fix this and get new. Name of that? Said a few words, strut, control arm perhaps another more popular. Bolts may break or the area they attach to so this may not be so much fun.

You should be able to better than $200 for parts or part it out on your own and still get bucks for the metal left.

I haven't checked the stats of this vehicle but seems most of these and sister car the Contour didn't work out so well for Ford,

T

Response From MarineGrunt

$75 for that used part isn't that bad. The shop has to figure in their cost of time and gas to go to the salvage yard to pick it up. There's no way it would only cost $10 from a salvage yard. I've paid $10 for a plastic hubcap before. The older the car the harder it is to find the part so that will also drive up prices.

If the car is in otherwise good shape I'd say it's worth getting fixed. Your best bet is to ask your mechanic to look it over and he can let you know if it's worth putting the money into. 135k miles isn't all that bad. If you can get a car with 50k miles for a grand and it's in good shape I'd jump all over that. Before purchasing a used vehicle you really ought to take it to a mechanic and have them look over it. When purchasing a used car in the $1000-$3000 range there's almost always going to be some stuff wrong with it. A mechanic can usually tell you what kind of work needs to be done. You have to realize that there are some things they can't really tell you though. Parts fail even on new cars so it's always a good idea to keep some funds on the side for "just in case" repairs. It always seems like something breaks at a time when money is tight. If you look at the owner's manual and follow the recommended maintenance intervals your car is likely to last much longer. It will end up saving you money in the long run. One of the most important things to do is change your oil. I know many people who always put it off. Take a look at this video. One of the mechanics on here posted it once before. It shows what happens to an engine when you don't change the oil. I'm not saying you don't keep up on it though. Just be aware how important maintenance really is on every aspect of your vehicle. I feel synthetic oil is the way to go. They say it has detergents in it that will clean sludge out of the engine. I use synthetic on every fluid possible.

If you plan on selling the Mystique you're better off getting everything fixed before selling it. You'll get more money out of it.

As DS already mentioned, that cat is likely going to be a pain to get off. Before I had a torch setup I've used a grinder or reciprocating saw to cut off exhaust bolts. Some can be a real pain to get to though. If you feel comfortable doing it you could always try replacing it yourself. We can try and walk you through it. If you aren't able to do it, and get halfway through, no big deal. You could always end up taking it to a shop to have them finish the job.

I highly doubt you'll find one for less than $53. If you do replace it make sure you spend the money on new gaskets. It would suck if you ended up doing it yourself only to have the gasket fail. If it fails on the front end of the cat you'll likely still fail emissions. You can get both gaskets for probably $10. I'm sure your time is worth more than that. Nothing worse than having to do a job twice only because of a cheap part you tried skimping on. Know what I mean?

Response From dethtrap3245345

SD, he said $75 not $130 to change out the cat. That's for the whole assembly though, not cutting out and re-welding just the canister which means a more expensive part I need.

(link removed - not allowed)
I'm almost certain the part i needed was a lower suspension controll arm. Only about $33 new free shipping on ebay ^ and I paid $75 from junk yard which I think is too high despite the labor to remove two bolts and deliver it 10 minutes.

As for my o2 sensor being before the cat and possibly still failing after changing cats, I guess i'll go to a garage that specializes in emmisions. As for doing work myself under the car, I'd almost enjoy it, and I've done things under the hood that probably make chaning out the cat simple (if no welding is involved since I don't have a welder or want to pay someone just to weld 5 minutes). I just don't feel comfortable banging out old frozen nuts. I'm the type to have the can on a jack plus stands plus something solid like piles of wide lumber and not cinder blocks as I know how little concrete can hold especially with no rebar. thanks for the help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Took link out, not allowed. Parts used could be more expensive just to get them out vs new.

You have somehow traumatized that suspension part to crack like that as to me it wasn't quite that rusted as lots of stuff I see.

Crack in converter case? How? Just what creations are you employing to hoist this thing? If you place jacks and stands (creative or whatever) on the wrong spots you will damage parts or this car got dropped somehow.

Welding to seal a crack in converter's case may or may not be possible and would take special tools if possible at all.

I don't get some of the prices tossed around as a real converter has more bucks in metal value if dead than those prices so couldn't have much ability and might not last for crap and be right back at it real soon.

Just replacing that broken arm will likely be a project. Uncooperative bolts, bushings that can't be reused or who knows? If barbed metal sleeve in bushings it must be tightened in it's home position or even new ones could fail fast for that.

These things cracked and broken are not normal. That's damage from something else you may have done or didn't know where and how to hoist the car while you've had it or lurking from before,

T

Response From dethtrap3245345 Top Rated Answer

the reason that controlla rm cracked is probably like you said not normal because i have really bad struts that are loud and banging when I hit bumps and rattle sometimes. I never got it fixed, just dealt with it, now I know I should get it fixed ro get a different car.
When I first got the car, I asked hwy it rattled and I'm pretty sure the mechanic said bad struts.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm surprised it didn't/doesn't have wild handling problems, severe tire wear and more. Back roads mostly are horrible where I am - driving is like a "dodge-em" course.

Not the point. I think I would go ahead and fix that and cat then decide on keeping or selling. This repair I think you'll do better to fix and sell than take a hit for the way it is.

Check for more damage so you really know the extent to put this back is good order,

T

Response From dethtrap3245345

In case this helps anyone, the failed emmision codes I got p4020 and p4030 might be the o2 sensor(s)
and/or the cat. Figuring out which is causign it to fail is not easy to do without paying a specialist.
It might also be blown fuses, since I have a few of those.

2000 Sable making noise when turing steering Wheel

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Rick57 on 2000 Sable making noise when turing steering Wheel

2000 Mercury Sable
78K
3.0 DOHC

I know this is suspension but its front wheel drive and I am sure this will not be easy. But here it is:

When I turn the steering wheel left/right it does not matter, it makes a squeel noise, almost like a moan if you know what I mean. Now this happens when I am at a dead stop or moving slow like backing up or just pulling away. It is very loud. It seems to drive and steer fine going down the road.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Rick

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I have run across a problem like this on Taurus/Sables a couple times before. It turned out to be bad upper strut turn plates.
The solution will be new strut plates but I would also replace the struts at the same time.
That should solve your problem.

Response From NJ___Jon

Regaurdless I would check the power steering fluid.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jon- Look at the date - Hope this is solved by now,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did I just see that this can make this "squeel/moan" when at a dead stop? That takes the FE parts and brakes out of it and would lead me to belt, belt tension issue - the load of steering is greatest stopped or slow driving and PS pump is probably slipping making the noise.

Moan is more like low PS fluid level. Check that AND belt tension. Tensioner may be bad or belt stretched to limit of range is my best guess with the info,

T

Ps: Simple belt tension test is to see if you can spin alternator by fins - shouldn't be able to easily or at all. Some alts don't have fins so just pick long stretch between pulleys to feel lash/deflection of belt. Engine off - keys out please!

Response From Rick57

It makes the noise at a dead stop yes, only when I turn the wheels in either direction and with the engine off. I just tried that. I can sit in the car with no engine on and turn the steering wheel and it makes the same noise.

Thanks,
Rick

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok - forget the belt for this for now. Engine off + noise takes the whole engine out of the picture. You have some part that's dry of grease/lubrication in the steering - duh - and near impossible to pin down from here. You could try hoisting front wheels and turning wheels - listen and check all the front end parts - ball joints, tie rod ends, rack, for anything. Is there a chance you are hearing this noise from the steering column? Some make some plastic to plasic or metal noise between parts that turnwith the wheel and the stationery ones like the housing for the key. Could also be turn signal or other internal parts unseen in column??

T

99 Cougar Alternator Replacement

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From garageNV on 99 Cougar Alternator Replacement

Has anyone had the " pleasure " of replacing the alternator on 1999 Mercury Cougar with a 2.5L V6 Auto. Any tips on getting to the bolts would be very helpful. I have already removed the right strut and axle shaft just to able to see the alternator. The bolts are threaded in from the back side with no room to get anything on them.

Response From Guest

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,2523402/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a88ca

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Autozone link doesn't give specifics and that link didn't work. It's just a matter of getting the right tool on the bolts:

Examples of cool wrenches for hard to get to nuts and bolts.........




Those are examples of "ratcheting" box and open end wrenches as mentioned earlier,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tools are the game in car repair now. There should be just one bolt on backside. Whatever it takes - a ratcheting box wrench, or even ratcheting open end wrench should do. There are all sorts of "obstruction" wrenches and tools that a plain socket set can't do,

T