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Bosch
1989 Eagle Premier Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-5EDC051    W0133-1605614  New

Qty:
$45.00 $177.33
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Remanufactured
  • Refer to Application Notie B-96 Refer to Application Notice B-96
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Eagle Premier L 4 Cyl 2.5L 150 -
Denso
1996 Eagle Summit Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso

P311-3BC56A6    W0133-1603642  New

Qty:
$65.00 $208.19
Denso Starter Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Remanufactured
  • Mitsubishi - 1.2 Kw Gear Reduction
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Body Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Eagle Summit DL Manual Wagon L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Denso
1994 Eagle Vision Starter Motor 6 Cyl 3.5L Denso

P311-35889B8    W0133-1604798  New

Qty:
$65.00 $178.37
Denso Starter Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Remanufactured
  • Mitsubishi - Gear Reduction
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Eagle Vision V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
BBB Industries
1993 Eagle Vision Starter Motor 6 Cyl 3.5L BBB Industries - REMAN STARTER

P311-29C298C    17461  New

Qty:
$35.00 $87.54
BBB Industries Starter Motor
  • REMAN STARTER
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Eagle Vision V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
BBB Industries
1995 Eagle Talon Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.0L BBB Industries - REMAN STARTER

P311-3630C73    17563  New

Qty:
$50.00 $76.64
BBB Industries Starter Motor
  • REMAN STARTER
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Eagle Talon Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Denso
1991 Eagle Talon Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - Reman Starter

P311-0EC0E52    280-4104  Remanufactured

91-27-3118 , 323-1039 , 16888 , 458546 , TM000A04001 , DOS481 , M2T53083 , 16869 , M1T70483 , 17501 , 44-6402 , 458279 , 244-6402 , 44-6233 , N16939 , 3231039 , 16939 , S16939 , MD162839 , S1581 , M1T70481 , 36100-32510 , M099667D , SR4307X , 17289 , 36100-32520 , 438118 , VS365 , 1870306 , 36100-32530 , M2T53085 , MD099667 , R099667M , MD172860 , M1T70482 , 99404

Qty:
$68.00 $103.73
Denso Starter Motor
  • DENSO First Time Fit® Starter Motor – Remanufactured
  • 1.2 kW
  • Reman Starter
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Family: Mitsubishi Oe
    • Power Rating: 1.2
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • With over 60 years of experience supplying the automakers with premium electrical components, DENSO has the inside track on starter technology. The original DENSO gear-reduction starter is an industry benchmark, so rugged and powerful that it is often adapted for racing use. DENSO remanufactured starters are subjected to a rigorous test and replacement routine that produces the lowest return rates in the replacement aftermarket. Armatures and field coils are high-voltage tested; commutators are refinished and performance-validated; terminals and fasteners are replaced with high-quality copper components. And every starter is exactingly bench-tested to ensure factory-original performance. Remanufactured components offer tremendous value to consumers, and by recycling valuable parts and precious raw materials to be used again, they're the environmentally responsible choice as well. For distributors, retailers, and consumers alike, DENSO First Time Fit® remanufactured starters are the ideal choice. Features: High-voltage tested armature and field coils to ensure reliable performance; Premium copper terminals to ensure a clean source of electrical current; All-new bearings, brushes, and seals; Benefits: Maximum cranking torque under all conditions; Class leaders in size and weight; Environmentally designed to start in cold and hot weather conditions
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Eagle Talon L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Denso
1994 Eagle Talon Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - Reman Starter

P311-0EC0E52    280-4104  Remanufactured

91-27-3118 , 323-1039 , 16888 , 458546 , TM000A04001 , DOS481 , M2T53083 , 16869 , M1T70483 , 17501 , 44-6402 , 458279 , 244-6402 , 44-6233 , N16939 , 3231039 , 16939 , S16939 , MD162839 , S1581 , M1T70481 , 36100-32510 , M099667D , SR4307X , 17289 , 36100-32520 , 438118 , VS365 , 1870306 , 36100-32530 , M2T53085 , MD099667 , R099667M , MD172860 , M1T70482 , 99404

Qty:
$68.00 $103.73
Denso Starter Motor
  • DENSO First Time Fit® Starter Motor – Remanufactured
  • 1.2 kW; with M/T
  • Reman Starter
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Family: Mitsubishi Oe
    • Power Rating: 1.2
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • With over 60 years of experience supplying the automakers with premium electrical components, DENSO has the inside track on starter technology. The original DENSO gear-reduction starter is an industry benchmark, so rugged and powerful that it is often adapted for racing use. DENSO remanufactured starters are subjected to a rigorous test and replacement routine that produces the lowest return rates in the replacement aftermarket. Armatures and field coils are high-voltage tested; commutators are refinished and performance-validated; terminals and fasteners are replaced with high-quality copper components. And every starter is exactingly bench-tested to ensure factory-original performance. Remanufactured components offer tremendous value to consumers, and by recycling valuable parts and precious raw materials to be used again, they're the environmentally responsible choice as well. For distributors, retailers, and consumers alike, DENSO First Time Fit® remanufactured starters are the ideal choice. Features: High-voltage tested armature and field coils to ensure reliable performance; Premium copper terminals to ensure a clean source of electrical current; All-new bearings, brushes, and seals; Benefits: Maximum cranking torque under all conditions; Class leaders in size and weight; Environmentally designed to start in cold and hot weather conditions
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Eagle Talon ES Manual E L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Denso
1996 Eagle Summit Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - Reman Starter

P311-0EC0E52    280-4104  Remanufactured

91-27-3118 , 323-1039 , 16888 , 458546 , TM000A04001 , DOS481 , M2T53083 , 16869 , M1T70483 , 17501 , 44-6402 , 458279 , 244-6402 , 44-6233 , N16939 , 3231039 , 16939 , S16939 , MD162839 , S1581 , M1T70481 , 36100-32510 , M099667D , SR4307X , 17289 , 36100-32520 , 438118 , VS365 , 1870306 , 36100-32530 , M2T53085 , MD099667 , R099667M , MD172860 , M1T70482 , 99404

Qty:
$68.00 $103.73
Denso Starter Motor
  • DENSO First Time Fit® Starter Motor – Remanufactured
  • 1.2 kW; with M/T, Excludes Canada
  • Reman Starter
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Family: Mitsubishi Oe
    • Power Rating: 1.2
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • With over 60 years of experience supplying the automakers with premium electrical components, DENSO has the inside track on starter technology. The original DENSO gear-reduction starter is an industry benchmark, so rugged and powerful that it is often adapted for racing use. DENSO remanufactured starters are subjected to a rigorous test and replacement routine that produces the lowest return rates in the replacement aftermarket. Armatures and field coils are high-voltage tested; commutators are refinished and performance-validated; terminals and fasteners are replaced with high-quality copper components. And every starter is exactingly bench-tested to ensure factory-original performance. Remanufactured components offer tremendous value to consumers, and by recycling valuable parts and precious raw materials to be used again, they're the environmentally responsible choice as well. For distributors, retailers, and consumers alike, DENSO First Time Fit® remanufactured starters are the ideal choice. Features: High-voltage tested armature and field coils to ensure reliable performance; Premium copper terminals to ensure a clean source of electrical current; All-new bearings, brushes, and seals; Benefits: Maximum cranking torque under all conditions; Class leaders in size and weight; Environmentally designed to start in cold and hot weather conditions
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Region Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Eagle Summit Base Manual United States G L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Denso
1997 Eagle Talon Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - Reman Starter

P311-0EC0E52    280-4104  Remanufactured

91-27-3118 , 323-1039 , 16888 , 458546 , TM000A04001 , DOS481 , M2T53083 , 16869 , M1T70483 , 17501 , 44-6402 , 458279 , 244-6402 , 44-6233 , N16939 , 3231039 , 16939 , S16939 , MD162839 , S1581 , M1T70481 , 36100-32510 , M099667D , SR4307X , 17289 , 36100-32520 , 438118 , VS365 , 1870306 , 36100-32530 , M2T53085 , MD099667 , R099667M , MD172860 , M1T70482 , 99404

Qty:
$68.00 $103.73
Denso Starter Motor
  • DENSO First Time Fit® Starter Motor – Remanufactured
  • 1.2 kW; with Turbo, with M/T
  • Reman Starter
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Family: Mitsubishi Oe
    • Power Rating: 1.2
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • With over 60 years of experience supplying the automakers with premium electrical components, DENSO has the inside track on starter technology. The original DENSO gear-reduction starter is an industry benchmark, so rugged and powerful that it is often adapted for racing use. DENSO remanufactured starters are subjected to a rigorous test and replacement routine that produces the lowest return rates in the replacement aftermarket. Armatures and field coils are high-voltage tested; commutators are refinished and performance-validated; terminals and fasteners are replaced with high-quality copper components. And every starter is exactingly bench-tested to ensure factory-original performance. Remanufactured components offer tremendous value to consumers, and by recycling valuable parts and precious raw materials to be used again, they're the environmentally responsible choice as well. For distributors, retailers, and consumers alike, DENSO First Time Fit® remanufactured starters are the ideal choice. Features: High-voltage tested armature and field coils to ensure reliable performance; Premium copper terminals to ensure a clean source of electrical current; All-new bearings, brushes, and seals; Benefits: Maximum cranking torque under all conditions; Class leaders in size and weight; Environmentally designed to start in cold and hot weather conditions
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Engine Designation Aspiration Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Eagle Talon TSi Manual EBG Turbocharged F L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Denso
1995 Eagle Talon Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - Reman Starter

P311-0EC0E52    280-4104  Remanufactured

91-27-3118 , 323-1039 , 16888 , 458546 , TM000A04001 , DOS481 , M2T53083 , 16869 , M1T70483 , 17501 , 44-6402 , 458279 , 244-6402 , 44-6233 , N16939 , 3231039 , 16939 , S16939 , MD162839 , S1581 , M1T70481 , 36100-32510 , M099667D , SR4307X , 17289 , 36100-32520 , 438118 , VS365 , 1870306 , 36100-32530 , M2T53085 , MD099667 , R099667M , MD172860 , M1T70482 , 99404

Qty:
$68.00 $103.73
Denso Starter Motor
  • DENSO First Time Fit® Starter Motor – Remanufactured
  • 1.2 kW; AWD, with M/T
  • Reman Starter
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Family: Mitsubishi Oe
    • Power Rating: 1.2
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • With over 60 years of experience supplying the automakers with premium electrical components, DENSO has the inside track on starter technology. The original DENSO gear-reduction starter is an industry benchmark, so rugged and powerful that it is often adapted for racing use. DENSO remanufactured starters are subjected to a rigorous test and replacement routine that produces the lowest return rates in the replacement aftermarket. Armatures and field coils are high-voltage tested; commutators are refinished and performance-validated; terminals and fasteners are replaced with high-quality copper components. And every starter is exactingly bench-tested to ensure factory-original performance. Remanufactured components offer tremendous value to consumers, and by recycling valuable parts and precious raw materials to be used again, they're the environmentally responsible choice as well. For distributors, retailers, and consumers alike, DENSO First Time Fit® remanufactured starters are the ideal choice. Features: High-voltage tested armature and field coils to ensure reliable performance; Premium copper terminals to ensure a clean source of electrical current; All-new bearings, brushes, and seals; Benefits: Maximum cranking torque under all conditions; Class leaders in size and weight; Environmentally designed to start in cold and hot weather conditions
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Engine Designation Drive Type Aspiration Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Eagle Talon TSi Manual EBG AWD Turbocharged F L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997

Latest Eagle Repair and Starter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

96 Eagle Vision No Start.

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From RoboDisko on 96 Eagle Vision No Start.

1996 Eagle Vision ESi 3.5L about 140K
Ok. Car won't start. The starter isn't engaging. When the key is turned, 2 relays click (1 of them I know is the starter relay), but the starter don't react. Battery voltage is good. I don't know if the solenoid is supposed to make a noise, but I don't hear anything except the relays.

It has done this before twice. Both times it did the exact same thing for a few days, then magically started working again. I'm getting tired of, "Surprise! Your car isn't going to take you home today!" So a permanent fix would be nice.

What do you suggest attempting on this vehicle?

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Start with having your battery load tested so you know for sure it is good. They can read normal voltage when sitting and fail when loaded, so it needs to be tested. Most parts stores will do this for free. Before you pull that battery out, I want you to grab ahold of the cable ends bolted to the terminals and see if they are actually tight. A loose connection can do this to you. Also make sure they are clean to the point of shiny on the contact surfaces and the cables are in good shape. If you have green death in the wiring you'll never get this working right until that is fixed.

After you have done that, if the problem persists, get down to the starter itself and see if the cable end is corroded or loose there. Also make sure the small trigger wire is clean and tight.

If it has passed all those tests, hook either a 12v test light or a multimeter to the small trigger wire and have someone turn the key to the start position. See if you are getting 12v there. You should be when the key is in the start position. If you are getting the signal, and have verified that your battery and cables are all good, you are looking at a bad starter.

Response From RoboDisko

Since the vehicle wasn't experiencing any significant voltage drops when attempting to start, I didn't bother to check the battery.

Under your advice, I pulled of the trigger wire and stuck a multimeter on it. It was around 12v. So I checked the solenoid input voltage when trying to start. It was 11.8V. Solenoid output was around 10.5V. I thought that might be an issue. At this point I was suspecting the starter might be bad. I wiggled the wire that came out of the solenoid and goes to the starter a good bit, and tried the voltage on the solenoid output again, but it started. So apparently the wire from the solenoid to the starter is loose. I'm going to leave it as-is unless we start having more frequent issues.

Thanks for the help! It really does help.

Response From Hammer Time

Your tests are pointing toward a bad starter.

Response From RoboDisko

I'm pretty sure it's not a bad starter but a bad wire between the solenoid and the starter. Right now when it won't turn over I just open up the engine compartment and wiggle that wire a bit, and it usually works fine. However, I will probably take the time sometime to take the starter off and fix it right.

Response From RoboDisko

I've managed to find the root issue. It starts just fine now, but this is what was wrong:

Recently the starting issue continued to degrade until it wouldn't start at all even after wiggling the wire to the starter. Took the starter off and it turns out the positive brushes in the starter were worn out. (the wire wiggling moved the brushes just enough to allow it to start) One could replace the whole starter for around $100, but I just bought some new brushes at about $10. After replacing the brushes in the starter, the vehicle no longer has the issue.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good that you found it and could do just brushes, many folks wont repair their own. Sounds like you are all set for a while. I'll close thread to keep spammer out and you can request it open again by any mod,

T

Response From Hammer Time

That may be a temporary fix. I doubt the rest of that start has much life left. Changing the whole starter was the correct way to repair that.

1993 Dodge eagle Electrical problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From MaxG on 1993 Dodge eagle Electrical problem

1993 Dodge Eagle Vision 170,000 miles
Went to start it - ignition came on but no sound from starter. Thought battery dead. Cleaned off terminals and then jump started and drove round to recharge battery. Still dead. Repeated and drove longer and further. Stopped and then tried to restart. Same result. While driving the second time the ABS light came on. I do not know if this is coincidental or not.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

You should start off with having the battery tested to make sure it's good...

1996 Eagle Vision blinkers not working

Showing 2 out of 34 Posts | Show 32 Hidden Posts
Question From RoboDisko on 1996 Eagle Vision blinkers not working

Ok so my 96 Eagle Vision 3.5L ESi has some blinkers that wont work. It's kind of weird, the car wouldn't start, so my dad blamed the battery wire because it was really greasy, and replaced it. It didn't start after being replaced, but then a few minutes later it did. And when it did, the blinkers weren't working.

I've looked for the problem a bit. The parking lamps, which use the same bulbs, work fine. I think the relay is ok, And I haven't found any obvious wiring issues under the hook near the replaced positive wire.

Where do you guys suggest looking for the blinker issue?

Response From Discretesignals

Hazards work? Do any bulbs light up when you activate the turn signals?

Response From RoboDisko

Forgot to say that the hazard lights do not work. Nothing happens when you move the blinker lever thingy. No lights on the dash, no lights exterior lights.

Response From Discretesignals

Have you checked for power at the fuses that protect the turn signals and hazard lamps circuits?

check your PM

Response From RoboDisko

Yes the fuses are all fine. The diagram you sent me should help.

Response From Discretesignals

You also need to check for power to those fuses. A visual inspection of them won't tell you if you have power to the fuses or not.

edit: when you check power at those fuses make sure your circuit is powered up...this means have the turn signals/hazards on.

Response From RoboDisko

There is a voltage on the fuse, however it isn't quite battery voltage. I think it was around 11.5V, and the battery was at around 12.5 When I turned the blinker or the hazard lights on, the voltage increased to like 11.6V. I've pullout out the combination flasher, but I don't really know how to check it. It acts like a relay. I put a normal relay in instead and it still didn't do anything. What should I blame next?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Bit confused from top post. What came first, blinkers not working or car not starting or please explain that. Car didn't start for a while with new battery then did! There's a problem still there or with body grounds - something doesn't add up.

When it didn't start did it crank the engine?

Not sure but suspect an original problem might have been poor body grounds - a guess so far and hope nothing more blew out messing with the battery and cables and not convinced they are right yet,

T

Response From RoboDisko Top Rated Answer

Yes, It is pretty confusing. I'll tell you the quick version of the story of the car again to try to explain.
One day car wouldn't start. Key turned, some clicks, but nothing from the starter. All other electronics appeared to function normally. My dad saw the battery cables were dirty and thought they needed replaced. He replaced them, and that either fixed it, or it magically started working a little bit after that, I can't remember. Anyways after he replaced the positive and negative battery wires, the blinkers stopped working

A while latter (like a month). Vehicle wouldn't start. Same as before, key turned, clicks, but no attempt from the starter. We tried to start it every so often (like a few times a day) and one time it started just fine.

Continued running for like a month, then wouldn't start again. This time the starter turned just fine, just no spark. You guys helped me blame the crank sensor, which was replaced and it started fine.

So the battery hasn't been replaced recently, blinkers stopped working after the battery cables were replaced. Currently everything seems to work fine except the blinkers.

Response From Discretesignals

There is a voltage on the fuse, however it isn't quite battery voltage.


Which fuse did you check?


You should jumper 1 to 4 at the combo flasher socket. Then turn the ignition on. You should be able to see if the lights power up when you position the turn signal in either direction. That would answer a whole lot of questions.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok, I will do that soon, but which ones are 1 and 4? That diagram you sent me is difficult to understand. What number would they be on a relay?

Response From Discretesignals

Look at the wire colors on the combo connector

1 =Black
4 =Pink

There are two black wires.

One is ground and the other should have battery voltage on it with the ignition switch in the on position.

The black wire that has power is the one you want to jump to the pink wire.

The combo flasher isn't a relay and you can't wire it up to the connector as such.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok, I figured out which black one was ground with a continuity test, and I checked the voltage on the other one. It didn't have any significant voltage when the ignition was in the run position. (the engine wasn't running, but it shouldn't matter, right?) I bridged the one that was supposed to have battery voltage to the pink one anyways, with an amp meter, and the blinkers didn't do anything. Also, the current going through the wire was .05 amps for the directional turn signals, and .085 for the hazard lamps. From this I assume that I should try connecting the one that is supposed to be at battery voltage to battery voltage?

Response From Discretesignals

If you don't have battery voltage at the black wire that comes from fuse 3 in the junction block, you need to work on that side of the circuit and figure out where it is being lost.


Black/ white should have 12 volts sitting on it all the time.
You could also jump black/white, if it has power, to pink just to see if the switch and load side of the circuit is working.

Don't forget when you jump these circuits you have to activate the turn signal switch. If the switch is in the left position, left front and left rear turn signals should be on steady. The same for the right turn side of the switch.


If you jump pink directly to battery, make sure you have a fuse in line. You don't want to find a short by smoking out a bunch of wiring...

Response From RoboDisko

Smoking wire...Brings back memories of when I was putting a radio in my 100% electric go-cart with 3 car batteries in series(36V). Hooked up an aligator click to the 12V input on the radio, and ground to one of the batteries's ground. Then put that aligator clip on the positive end of the same battery. These are small alligator clip wires that get warm with 5A. It practically vaporized. I thought the stereo was toast, but apparently the other end of the clip came in contact with the frame, which although supposed to be neutral, apparently wasn't.

Back to our topic:

According to further diagnosis, apparently I suck at diagnosis.

I did a continuity test from fuse 3 to the black wire. It was good. So I double checked the voltage on the fuse. It was at battery. I double checked the voltage on the black wire. Nothing. So I was like what the crap?! I checked all of that stuff a 2nd time, same results. Then I looked at the fuse I was holding and pretty much slapped myself. Apparently it blew sometime when I wasn't paying attention. Did the test again with a good fuse, and the blinkers stayed solid as expected.

I then proceeded to test the voltage on the black and white wire. It doesn't have any significant voltage. Should I try connecting it to 12v with my *fused* multimeter with the combo thingy in place?

Response From RoboDisko

I keep saying I'm going to do 1 thing, then I do another. Anyways I did a continuity test from one side of the hazard light fuse in the power distribution center to the black and white wire. It was good. But there was no significant voltage on the other side. I think this is the problem. What is the easiest way to rectify this wrong?

Response From Discretesignals

Do you have battery voltage sitting at fuse 1 20A?

Response From RoboDisko

No, no I don't. In fact, it is grounded. Is there an obvious wire that, if wrong, could cause this?

Response From Discretesignals

If you have the combo flasher connected, you'll have continuity to ground on the circuit after the fuse that goes to the combo relay.

If you don't have power to that fuse, you should check the fusible link up at the battery positive terminal. Diagram states the link should be white.


If you have continuity to ground on the circuit before the fuse which you shouldn't, the link is probably blown and you have a short to ground between the fusible link and the fuse box.

Response From RoboDisko

The circuit before the fuse is ground.

How easy is the power distribution center to open? if its easy, I'll repair it properly. If its going to be a pain, I just get a wire from positive to the fuse, and then to the combo flasher, tied together with lots of electrical tape and maybe a bit of hot glue. I'm famous for that kind of jimmy-riggin.

Response From Discretesignals

The circuit before the fuse has to be power directly from the battery positive terminal. There is a fusible link in that circuit.

Did you check the link? Check the link before ripping the whole power distribution box apart.

Why would you jerry rig that? If you are going to do something, why not take your time and do it correctly? You wouldn't think that a small wire could burn a whole car to the ground, but it will and has.

The link has to be in that circuit or else the car would be a fire hazard if the circuit were to short to ground. Find the problem, then decided how to fix it without the jerry rigging of course.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok I think I know the exact problem, and exactly how to fix it. It is ever so simple. If I'm correct, when my dad replaced the battery cables, he hooked a particular wire up on the wrong terminal. That wire the the feed for the combo flasher. Way too easy...I think. I'll go see if I'm right.

Response From RoboDisko

Yep, problem solved. You guys are amazing. Even when its something super simple. I think I'll disallow my dad to work on his own car, so this doesn't happen again. Thank You.

Another simple question that is to small for it's own thread: I have noticed that the egr valve and the atx shutdown relay both get very warm, even hot, if the ignition is lefvt on for a while, when the engine isn't running. Is this normal, or should I be concerned? As far as how hot, I don't have a thermostat but the egr valve is quite warm, but not too hot to touch. The contacts on the relay, however, are hot enough that they could probably burn you if you were stupid enough to keep touching them.

Response From Discretesignals

Relays do get warm when they are energized.

You sure your not looking at something else? The EGR valve is vacuum operated and shouldn't be hot with the key on, unless the engine has been running.

Response From RoboDisko

Pretty sure. It a black cylindrical thing with a tube coming out one end.

Response From Discretesignals

That would mean the solenoid is active. Is the solenoid being energized while the ignition is on and engine is off?

Response From RoboDisko

Yes, it happens when the ignition is on, but the engine isn't.

Response From Discretesignals

The solenoid is going to have power with the ignition on, but not sure if the PCM should be grounding it with the engine off ignition on. If the solenoid was staying open all the time with the engine running, the engine probably wouldn't idle very well or at all.


edit:

never mind that is normal.

The electronic EGR transducer contains an electrically operated solenoid and a back-pressure transducer (Fig. 2). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) operates the solenoid. The PCM determines when to energize the solenoid. Exhaust system back-pressure controls the transducer.

When the PCM energizes the solenoid, vacuum does not reach the transducer. Vacuum flows to the transducer when the PCM de-energizes the solenoid.

Response From RoboDisko

OK so everything is normal?

Response From Discretesignals

It being warm, probably normal. The PCM leaves it turned on until it wants EGR flow, so the solenoid is going to get warm. As for everything else in your driveway, I have no clue..LOL

Response From RoboDisko

Ok. That's interesting that energized is closed. I think that is all of the combustion engine based problems that I can think of. If I have any more, I know where to go. You guys are awesome, thank you!

Response From Discretesignals

Your welcome. Glad to see you got things figured out. Thanks for the follow up.

Closed as OP seems satisfied.

Response From Discretesignals

Silver thing is the EGR valve. The cylindrical black device is the EGR transducer.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok well the black part. Is that normal?

I Eagle Talon problem

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Question From Keith03 on I Eagle Talon problem

Hi I have a 1995 Eagle Talon ESI 2.0 non-turbo 5 speed with 165,xxx miles. I have this problem where it will lose all power to it and cut off, but when its cold and I try to start it for the first time it will turn over just fine and drive just fine, but when I turn it off for a while and try to go out and do something it will try to start up but quickly die or it will take about 5-7 times to try and keep it either running or trying to start it. Also when it is driving fine and say about after an hour or so of driving it will begin to bog out and die. I have replaced the plugs and wires, the coil pack, the belt, I have a aftermarket air intake on it, replaced the vacuum hoses, new oil pan. there are days i will have no problem and a lot of the days I have non stop problems with it and it is starting to piss me off. I don't want to sell it i want to figure out the problem and keep the car. If anyone that is a DSM enthusiast please help because I'm just now getting into fixing my own car and I'm in a dead end spot. I thought it was the alternator or starter but some of the mechanics I went to said it was not the problem. I have also thought it was the battery but i took the battery out and put it on a tester and it was just fine as well. I have also fixed every problem that came up on the car reader and i still have the same problems and its just confusing now. Please help i'll give you a cookie

Response From Tom Greenleaf


I have a aftermarket air intake on it,


^^ Question that^^

Have you checked fuel pressure while it is acting up? Will it hold?

Exhaust restrictions? Worth a check too.
Gotta ask why it needed an oil pan too?

T

Response From Keith03

I have checked the exhaust it's fine except the tiny tiny leak in the exhaust. I have not checked the fuel pressure not to sure on how to do that. like I said I'm just a newbie at this. the reason for the new oil pan because when I got the the car the oil pan had a bad leak in it.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I have checked the exhaust it's fine

Impossible..................... You have no idea how to even test for a restriction.

Response From Keith03

Your right I don't know but I had my mechanic look at it and he said it was fine so I went with his word

Response From Hammer Time

I still doubt it was tested properly. It needs to be pressure tested and the vacuum readings analyzed during the failure.