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You failed to mention that the intake manifold has to be removed to access the starter.
Starter is under the intake ..


Jim



Eeek that doesnt sound like much fun at all.

thank you i shall install the shims and try, another question then, is that why i get the loud noise from the starter due to not having them in and the starter then sitting to high ???? just so i know, i do have general knowlage when it comes to working on the engine but there are some things that i need to figure out, it has been a few years since i last worked on a car and haven't had to worrie about this kinda stuff but now that i am with my gf her cars are not up to snuff so i want to get them on the road without spending too much money on taking these cars in for repair, just cause well we dont have much money lol but thank you for the help

well at the moment the shims seem to be a little long compared to the slot in which the starter sits so i may have to shave them down a lil but what seems weird is the fact that the original starter that was in there didn't have them so that is were i have my issue, i dunno really what to do its really a horrible placement of where they had put the original one there is a overhang on the body that blocks the shim i hope i get it lol but your help is great i really apperiate it

Took the starter in got it tested it works fine and it is identical to the one I took off. They said it could be a bad connection. I made sure I had good contact on bothe connections. Battery was dead from trying to start it with the old starter. I jumped it with wife's vehicle and starter just spins and does not engage. I read somewhere that the battery not having enough power could cause this so I hooked it up to the charger and will try again. Battery is only about 7 months old if it still doesn't work should I try a new battery?

Charged the battery and the starter is turning the motor now but it won't fire and doesn't turn over long before the battery is drained again. try a different battery?

Charging and testing the battery should have been the first thing you did.

Ignited the battery was ok because it's not very old and this is the first time it's been discharged. I'll get it tested or get a new one to see if it resolves my issue. Thanks to all for the advice so far.

You can't look for any other issues in the electrical system until you have a known good, fully charged battery.

Battery charged and tested good. Engine turns over for a bit before hearing the loud clunk noise which I believe is coming from the starter again. I'm stumped. May have to break down and have it towed to a mechanic so it doesn't break this starter.

You may have bigger issues than that.

I'm starting to wonder if this may have the crank sensor problem. With low battery problem and possible crank sensor issue, it could cause the engine to kick back and possibly damage the starter. Some of them could even cause a backfire that blows the intake gasket out. I'd replace the crank sensor just as a precautionary decision.

There is a TSB on this:

Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014

Date: April, 2000

TECHNICAL

Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" DuringCrank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual Noises During Crank, DTC P0338(Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine(VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)

Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above

Cause:

A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.

Correction:

Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).

No old starter would clunk once in a while then quit. Took it off to find part of the housing had broke off.

Take it back and get another one. Sounds like the solenoid is bad.

i have took the 2 bottom bolts out and i have banged and banged with a hammer it will not come off there must be another bolt some where else i have looked and looked and i can't find it you dont by chance remember where the bolts was located do you it looks to be one of the bail housing bolts to the transmission may be holding it on there what do you think or do you know where that third bolt is located the 2 on the bottom is out thanks

Don't you have the new starter to look at?

Are you saying it will not spin at all or that its spinning and not engaging the flywheel ? If the latter could be a bad flywheel.

It is spinning just not engaging to turn it over (just grinds) 2 mechanics checked flywheel and nothing is wrong.

You also might want to double check that you even have the right starter. Some have very slight differences and may not have the same reach.

Have your mechanics power up the bendix without the stator . Then you can check pinion depth with a wire gage . Should be pretty straight forword test . let us know the results.

Been ages since I've seen that..........On Chevys I remember some reman brands actually giving you the gauge with the starter......

Have your 2 mechanics checked the bendix?