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2003 Mazda 6 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3952F6A    New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Thermostat Housing Cover to Lower Radiator Connector.
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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2003 - Mazda 6
Gates
2008 Mazda 6 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3952F6A    New

Qty:
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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Thermostat Housing Cover to Lower Radiator Connector.
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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2008 - Mazda 6
Gates
2001 Mazda Tribute Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-021BC0F    New

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$21.15
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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2001 - Mazda Tribute
Gates
2002 Mazda MPV Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3A4F3D9    New

Qty:
$23.23
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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2002 - Mazda MPV
Gates
2002 Mazda MPV Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-5EB84D7    New

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$24.99
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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2002 - Mazda MPV
MacKay
2003 Mazda 6 Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-15E70A9    New

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$22.04
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Thermostat Housing to Radiator.
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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2003 - Mazda 6
MacKay
2008 Mazda 6 Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-15E70A9    New

Qty:
$22.04
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Thermostat Housing to Radiator.
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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2008 - Mazda 6
MacKay
1994 Mazda Miata Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-4429089    New

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MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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1994 - Mazda Miata
MacKay
1999 Mazda Miata Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-518ABCB    New

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MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: MacKay
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1999 - Mazda Miata
MacKay
1999 Mazda Miata Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-162DEF5    New

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MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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1999 - Mazda Miata
MacKay
1990 Mazda Protege Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-4F1B5D0    New

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$17.12
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: MacKay
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1990 - Mazda Protege
MacKay
1990 Mazda Protege Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-0BDB09E    New

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$14.66
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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1990 - Mazda Protege
MacKay
1995 Mazda Protege Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-48AB859    New

Qty:
$16.32
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: MacKay
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1995 - Mazda Protege
MacKay
1998 Mazda Protege Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-48AB859    New

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$16.32
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: -05/1998
Brand: MacKay
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1998 - Mazda Protege
MacKay
1995 Mazda Protege Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-0F9C463    New

Qty:
$16.32
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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1995 - Mazda Protege
MacKay
1998 Mazda Protege Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-0F9C463    New

Qty:
$16.32
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: -05/1998
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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1998 - Mazda Protege
MacKay
1990 Mazda Miata Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-494D480    New

Qty:
$18.01
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • From Pipe to Water Pump
  • Lower
Brand: MacKay
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1990 - Mazda Miata
MacKay
1990 Mazda Miata Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-0E597EC    New

Qty:
$13.39
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • From Radiator to Pipe
  • Lower
Brand: MacKay
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Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Miata
MacKay
1990 Mazda Miata Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-1A3475E    New

Qty:
$12.83
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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1990 - Mazda Miata
Goodyear
1986 Mazda 323 Radiator Coolant Hose Goodyear

P311-0CBE178    New

Qty:
$12.25
Goodyear Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Goodyear
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1986 - Mazda 323

Latest Mazda Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Mazda Tribute Overheating after 15mins of idling

Showing 10 out of 20 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Ajharris on 2003 Mazda Tribute Overheating after 15mins of idling

2003 Mazda Tribute V-6. 3.0L with 89k miles
My 03 Tribute is also overheating, I've changed the thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley and belt, radiator as well, My coolant is not flowing from the overflow bottle the top radiator hose gets rock hard and hot after 15mins of idling and the bottom radiator hose remains soft and cool to touch. If I remove the cap off the overflow bottle the pressure releases and the top radiator hose gets soft.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You've replaced enough stuff to rule out those items but some things don't add up exactly. Upper and lower radiator hoses would be warm/hot up top and cooler/cold bottom but the pressure is the pressure dictated by the pressure cap so that doesn't make sense - it's one system. You can have some different pressure from a water pump drawing hard and fast at RPMs as well as too much pressure going to heater cores but systems take that into account by hose sizes or intentional restrictors so alone forget that for the heater.

If you feel system is pressurizing more than the stated pressure of the cap something is all wrong. The pressure cap may be on radiator or the "overflow" bottle as you put it and all pressure is limited to that but if coolant can't get to that reservoir for some reason that would change things.

Right now with it overheating you need to know if it really is at just 15 minutes. Do you mean that the gauge is on the high side or into warning area? Does heater continue to work or feel hotter - things like that are indicative or plain infrared temperatures that can target actual heat and where could help.

I think this has vapor still in the system either because it was never properly purged of air with any cooling system work or not too uncommon a failed head gasket can allow combustion gasses into cooling system which acts as air which will cause fast overheating, innaccurate or slow response to the vehicle's temp gauge and usually loss of heat at heater as vapor alone doesn't transfer heat well at all despite hot it is it needs liquid to do that.

Some (can't know each one that is a real pest) cooling system just do not fill well when touched for any reason or service and leave air that is too stubborn to purge itself out. Many just plain need to be vacuum filled as they would just take so long to properly fill with other tricks it's hard for a shop to have the time and near impossible for most DIYers to do without. Can't be done without and I'm not discussing some tricks for the fussy ones any more as it turns into a freaking novel to explain and this is already enough on my part. If only place to fill a system is at the "overflow" bottle you can't fill it properly from that when too low for any reason. If all things were normal with a system that was drained without a cap on radiator you will not succeed that way and risk overheating right away in the attempt.

1. Know system is full - truely full or get help.
2. Test for combustion gasses in cooling system.
3. Make sure any hose or passage from a recovery tank to radiator is free to pass coolant.

OK - You did all this for some reason to begin with no doubt overheating but that's a guess so why did you do all this?

Response From Ajharris

The temp gauge stays in the normal range, but the top radiator hose gets really hard and feels as if it wants to burst. When I remove the overflow cap the coolant backs out and the top hose gets soft and pressure is release. It seems as if something is stopping the water from entering the engine block both A/C and heater works fine. There is no cap on the radiator only on the overflow bottle

Response From Sidom

Well...this is a strange problem.......With most overheating problems you will see a rise in the temp, that's almost a given...

It is normal for a cooling system to build pressure, that is how they operate. Every pound of pressure you put on the system raises the boiling point by 1 degree. This is how systems can have cooling fans coming on in the 225 degrees range with no problems & on the reverse when you get a cap that won't hold pressure,,,,this will cause probems....

I would have to see this one but would think that from a cold stone start, you wouldn't see that much pressure that fast.....I would probably start off with monitering the computer datastream to see what temps the computer is seeing as opposed to what is showing on the dash......Take some temp reading on the block & around the t stat housing to see if it's overheating.....and then check the system to make sure exhaust gases aren't getting in from a head gasket going bad.....

I guess what I would want to know right now, since you say the temp is always in the normal range.......what brought your attention to this "problem"

Response From Ajharris Top Rated Answer

The temp gauge does go into the red but it's about after 30mins of idiling much later after the hose swells. I recently had problems with the truck overheating and shutting down after 20 mins of driving. I was told that the engine wasn't getting enough oil and was overheating and shutting down. I had the oil sender switch replaced and now the truck will continue to run but the overheating remains.

Response From Sidom

At this point I'm not real sure there is a problem......like a said it's normal for a cooling system to build pressure.....It needs that pressue to raise the boiling point....I was under the impression it was 1 degree for 1 lb......Tom is saying it's 3 degrees for 1lb but either way the system needs that pressure.....

Remote reservoirs are different some you will see some coolant flow & other ones are just for overflow and you won't see any movement....If you are talking about this Mazda as the "truck" there is no overheat shut down.....I would have to look up the different strategys for the PCM. Some had oil pressure tied into starting & wouldn't start with no pressure but no shut downs that I'm aware of.....

Now big rigs are different,,,,,They do have those safe guards for overheating

Response From Ajharris

But what would cause the temp gauge to go into the red zone if the truck wasn't overheating. The pressure build up is right at the thermostat housing it isn't thru out the whole hose only where it connects to the thermostat housing right before it enters the engine block

Response From Hammer Time

That's just impossible. The pressure is equal throughout the system.

You just need to let someone else look at this truck.

Response From Ajharris

The top hose coming from left side of radiator gets hot but I can completely squeeze and collapse hose if you follow the hose to the right side of the engine where it connects to the thermostat housing the hose swells up and becomes rock hard and can not be squeezed to even fill if there is water flowing. The bottom hose from the right side of the radiator is cool to touch and can be squeezed and collapsed even at the point where it also connects to the thermostat housing

Response From Sidom

Ok....I see where you said it does go into the red zone 1/2 way down....

You really seem to be describing a flow problem.....a no flow problem.......Was there any change to the original problem after you put all the new stuff on?

You may have got a bad T stat or a pump with a loose impellar......I've seen that before.....you may have to go back & double check some of the new stuff.....wouldn't be the 1st time the new parts were bad

Response From Ajharris

Yes, originally the car would shut down and refuse to start until it cooled off, I bought it to Firestone and they said that the engine wasn't receiving enough oil and was causing the engine to overheat and shut down, they replaced the oil pressure sender/switch. Now the truck won't shut down but I'm having problems with the overheating from a coolant standpoint I guess. When the hose swells at the point where it connects to the thermostat housing it gets really hard. This was stupid I know.....but I took a pair of pliers and slowly removed the clamp from around the hose and you can hear a hissing noise and steam. This is the only spot on the hose that swells to the point where it can't be squeezed

Response From Ajharris

Sorry for the confusion and thanks for continuing to try and help me I really appreciate it. After the oil sender was changed and I start to have the coolant overheating problem. I have since changed 2 thermostats, water pump, water pump tensioner pulley and belt and radiator.

Response From Sidom

I think there is some confusion on here (at least on my part) on what parts have been changed in relationship to this problem happening......

If just an oil sending unit has been changed since this problem has startred, then everything needs to be looked at and I would start with the easiest/cheapest thing and that would be a T stat...

One of the biggest mistakes someone can make is not checking a part because it's been changed recently or even being brand new.....

Response From Hammer Time

Not even remotely possible however the the hose rubber can be more rigid in one than the other.

Response From Sidom


The temp gauge stays in the normal range, but the top radiator hose gets really hard and feels as if it wants to burst.
Now there is conflicting info.....I was under the impression the gauge NEVER went into the red...... It would be impossible for the top hose to have excessive pressure in one end & not the other unless there was some type of barrier in that hose......I can't see the engine....I know when some hoses start to go bad they will get swollen and can expand more on the end that is going bad but there will be pressure thru the whole hose

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No surprise that letting the pressure out of a system the whole system losses pressure. Why would that confuse you? I mean no insult but that's like letting air out of a tire and top or bottom still has pressure

"ROCK HARD" isn't a measurement just your idea of the pressure. If a system pressures up from when it was released too fast that indicates a problem. Air in a system will heat up fast, total liquid takes longer and the pressure is simply expansion of coolant (normally) to be released at specified rating on the pressure cap to reservoir and able to return it when it contracts cooling down.

BTW - Common system pressures reach about 15 PSI which is some real pressure. You can drive most tires on that much. I don't know of systems ever that exceeded perhaps just a few up to 18 PSI. More than that things will let go or break in most. Pressure testers have warning area (at least mine) not to go that far or beyond. A good pressure tester will also test the pressure cap and about now I think you should do that.

ALL WARNINGS BE KNOWN THAT PRESSURE RAISES BOILING POINTS AND IF RELEASED TOO FAST OR WHEN TOO HOT IT WILL FLASH BOIL AND CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS! If confused by that you should let another check things out,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - give us some time. Some things are one word answers and some take some time. This is not some helpline out of India (me bad) on call 24 hours. It's free to use and all volunteer time as they have it and are not always here,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just saw your note posted before my post. Give us a chance. I'm not copy and pasting crap but writing things as I know them. If you want faster answers than mine read a manual on how to fill a cooling system specific to your vehicle...... T

Response From Ajharris

Sorry I am new to this whole forum type system but really do appreciate the knowledge that you guys share at no cost as I've had tried those sites that charge you in the past. Sorry

Response From Ajharris

Any suggestions

2003 MAZDA Tribute Overheating...Please Help

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Basf76 on 2003 MAZDA Tribute Overheating...Please Help

2003 Mazda Tribute, V6, 110,000 miles. ( Mazda Tribute is the same as Ford Escape And Mercury Mariner)

Overheating Happened on 23 Dec 2012
Checked:
Coolant - reservoir full but cold
Oil - levels are good
Cooling Hoses - no leaks but still cold as if coolant is not flowing through the engine
* Blows cool air through interior vents when turning on the heater during overheating
* Can drive it for 10 minutes before it starts to overheat

Please help...thank you in advance

Response From Basf76

Just back from the shop, they are 100% sure that the waterpump went out and needs replacement because no coolant was flowing and the vents was blowing cool air when turning on th heater.

Went to Rockauto.com and bought new waterpump, waterpump belt and thermostat for safe measure. Labor is going to cost me $220 install everything...sounds about right? Thanks again...

Response From Ajharris Top Rated Answer

My 03 Tribute is also overheating, I've changed the thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley and belt, radiator as well, My coolant is not flowing from the overflow bottle the top radiator hose gets rock hard and hot after 15mins of idling and the bottom radiator hose remains soft and cool to touch. If I remove the cap off the overflow bottle the pressure releases and the top radiator hose gets soft.

Response From Hammer Time

Please don't hijack other people;s questions.'


Read the FORUM RULES before posting.

Response From Sidom

Well, overheating that fast after start does suggest a flow a problem...

I would remove or hollow out the T stat and see if that makes a difference.....No matter what you find you are going to what to change out the stat since you've overheated the system...If it still overheats then you are going to want to look at the pump..

If you can locate the inlet heater hose, you can remove that a run the engine to see if you are getting flow...If you have a bad impellar then there will be little to no flow....If the pump is good then make sure you have a good extention hose on the heater hose and a good way to contain the coolant or you will have a big mess to deal with.....

Response From Hammer Time

Nobody has pressure tested this system yet. It is full of air and that coolant went somewhere. Even a totally closed thermostat is not going to make the heater cold.

Response From Sidom

I may have misread this but it looks like the OP had the overheating problem, then checked the system and it was full....

Response From Hammer Time

I was thinking that this system had a separate radiator cap but I see it has a pressurized bottle. I've seen a few of these DOHC engines with the impellers rotted off the water pump.

Response From Basf76

Thanks everyone for the help, I will be taking this to the shop today and I will update you on what they say. Do you guys recommend system diagnostics to be performed? Last thing @ Sidom, you are correct that the coolant is not going anywhere as levels never changes, the reservoir and the radiator hose is cool to the touch when the car is overheated. Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

It probably has air pockets in the system but it doesn't sound like you have even found the initial leak yet. You need to pressure test the system to finds the leaks and repair them.

Response From Basf76

Thanks for the suggestion but I have no leaks. I have been told maybe the thermostat is stuck on closed or my water pump may have gave out.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you don't know that at all. The system needs to be pressure tested before doing anything else.

Response From Discretesignals

If you don't find any leaks through pressure testing, you could have a water pump failure. If it is the original, it isn't uncommon for the plastic impeller to separate from the shaft. If the thermostat was stuck closed and you had no air in the system, your heater would still be blowing hot.