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Gates
1993 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-12C383E    W0133-1630548  New

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$21.02
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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1993 - Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Gates
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1E5D49B    W0133-1634059  New

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$14.66
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1993 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-11F94F4    W0133-1635550  New

Qty:
$13.20
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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1993 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-11F94F4    W0133-1635550  New

Qty:
$13.20
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Protective Sleeve Needed
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1997 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
2003 Jeep Wrangler Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2454CD7    W0133-1835911  New

Qty:
$17.55
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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2003 - Jeep Wrangler
Gates
2006 Jeep Wrangler Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0E01185    W0133-1879304  New

Qty:
$22.73
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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2006 - Jeep Wrangler
Gates
1997 Jeep Wrangler Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0F17B4C    W0133-1681554  New

Qty:
$16.58
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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1997 - Jeep Wrangler
Gates
1991 Jeep Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3FD3160    W0133-1835912  New

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$19.19
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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1991 - Jeep Cherokee
Gates
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0356E2A    W0133-1631331  New

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$22.78
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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1999 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-30A1162    W0133-1954497  New

Qty:
$14.19
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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2000 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1E5F259    W0133-1632180  New

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$23.11
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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2000 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
1993 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3A6A7D8    W0133-1632524  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Protective Sleeve Needed
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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1993 - Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Gates
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3A6A7D8    W0133-1632524  New

Qty:
$21.05
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Protective Sleeve Needed
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1998 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
1997 Jeep Wrangler Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1631D46    W0133-1630347  New

Qty:
$22.33
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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1997 - Jeep Wrangler
Gates
2002 Jeep Liberty Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2117250    W0133-1916001  New

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$14.57
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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2002 - Jeep Liberty
Gates
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3995030    W0133-1680887  New

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$18.88
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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2001 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
MacKay
2002 Jeep Liberty Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-09E2157    W0133-1893834  New

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$15.76
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: MacKay
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2002 - Jeep Liberty
MacKay
2007 Jeep Liberty Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-3FD5937    W0133-1983475  New

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$18.97
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: MacKay
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2007 - Jeep Liberty
Gates
2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-04DE8E2    W0133-1680885  New

Qty:
$15.60
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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2003 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Gates
2006 Jeep Commander Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-56F43B5    W0133-1881069  New

Qty:
$28.60
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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2006 - Jeep Commander

Latest Jeep Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Gatech04 on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Good Afternoon,

My 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started overheating and I was hoping to find some help pinpointing the problem. So far Ive replaced the radiator cap and thermostat - neither of which seemed to help. I even took the thermostat out all together and that didnt seem to work.



Here are my most recent observations from the other night (with thermostat still removed):

It took 6-7 minutes to reach a running temp of 210 just idling. Once there, it took only about a minute to get up near 260 when I turned it off.

While running, the large fan directly next to the serpentine belt was running continuously, but the smaller fan nearer the radiator never came on. I didnt try turning the AC though, I'll have to wait for it to cool down and I'll recheck that. I did try the heat while it was running though and only cool air came out.

After I turned it off, the upper radiator hose was very hot to the touch, the radiator cap was warm, the lower radiator hose was cool and both heater core lines were cool to the touch once you got far enough away from the thermostat (hence the lack of heat I assume).

When the engine is off, the large fan nearest the water pump only turns if I have consitent pressure on the blade and the smaller fan nearer the radiator "freewheels".

There are no apparent leaks (no coolant on the ground, no obvious leaks at the thermostat/pump/radiator/hoses/heater core).




Any help in narrowing down the problem would be greatly appreciated? Please let me know if you need more information of if I should snap some pictures.

Here's a video I made of it running with the rad cap off. I didnt let the engine even get to normal running temp, since a good bit of coolant was overflowing and I didnt want to make a toxic mess. I did have the AC on full blast and the little aux. fan never came on, but the temperature never got to 210 either, so Im not sure if that is normal.




Thank you

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
Gatech04; Just watched the video. Is this with the thermostat in, or out? I believe that this engine has a clutch fan as well as an auxillary electric fan for the A/C operation? At temperature, the clutch fan should be 'locked up' and not freewheeling as you stated. I also saw air bubbles coming out of the radiator, indicating either air is still in the system from lack of 'bleeding' or is being put into the system from a head gasket leak which will cause overheating. With the type of 'neck' on the radiator, you may not be able to see if it is flowing coolant unless you lower the coolant level down to where you can see the cores, if at all. As Sidom stated, running it without a thermostat will cause overheating problems, so you don't want to do that, but it is a good test for checking flow. The thermostat is there for a couple of reasons. It keeps the engine at a specified temp (195F-210F is normal) and allows time for the water in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine when the stat opens.

Response From Gatech04

The video was with the thermostat out. I havent noticed anything odd with the oil to indicate a leak into a head gasket - but I'll double check both the dipstick and oil fill area.

My comments on the fan were with the Jeep off. The larger of the two fans - the clutch fan? - was not freewheeling, but the smaller one in between that one and the radiator would freewheel.

I was planning on changing out the water pump on Mon/Tue (I wont have time to work on it till then) and at the same time I would be draining the coolant and re-inserting the thermostat. Does this sound like my next step? or are there other things I should try before doing this.



I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller. Since the 2 hoses going to/from the heater core remained cool to the touch, and since the heater doesnt work now - that would be the indication right?

Sorry that Im not too familiar with these types of things, I am enjoying learning though!

Thank you!

Response From Sidom



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller.



Yes, you're just looking to see if the pump is capable of genrating some good flow. Im memory serves me correct (which ½ the time is don't) there is a steel tube coming off the pump for the heater hose, you could use that line, or Loren's suggestion of the upper hose, either will work & either will make a heck of mess if the pump is good, so prepare accordingly. Impellers problems are definately the less common ones and I wouldn't change the pump "just because" but if you aren't getting any flow off the pump, that's problem.... The a boroscope would be nice, but I don't imagine you have on of those.....

Loren has given some real good steps to find the prob...... I would probably follow those 1st.........

Response From Gatech04

Well I finally had time to work on it again Tuesday night. Turns out the plastic impeller had broken loose from the shaft. I got it fixed and put back together, added a new serp. belt and flushed the radiator. Everything is working great now!

Thanks for all the help!

GT

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem.....good job........ Thx 4 coming backing with the results to your problem........ You may help someone in the future......

Response From lovemyjeeps

I have the same problem described here on my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I just did the upper radiator hose test and only got steam even as temp reached 210. Any sugestions?

Response From Discretesignals

You need to start your own thread please.

Read this on how to create a thread:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/FORUM_RULES_%3D%3D%3D%3D_READ_BEFORE_POSTING_P122997/

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Gatech; How did your cooling system look before you drained and filled? Was it very rusty? Not that it matters much, now, but I'm thinking of the water pump impeller as Sidom had mentioned. If the system was very rusty, it is possible that the impeller has rusted away enough to affect flow. It is very rare, but I've also seen the impeller come loose from the hub. (originally, pressed on) Another thing is a plugged radiator. For the following tests, drain and save your anti-freeze so you can re-use it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the lower radiator hose. The water should gush out. Using a garden hose, you shouldn't be able to keep up with the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator. Another test, although may be hard to do, at normal operating temperature, feel the radiator with your hand. The temperature should be equal, throughout. If you feel a spot that is cool, then it is plugged. With the thermostat still out and the engine idling and cold, remove the upper radiator hose. Careful that you don't get a bath. It should shoot water out like a firehose. Of course, only run it for a few seconds to watch the flow from the water pump. If you didn't know, cold water from the radiator goes into the water pump, then throughout the engine, then back into the radiator through the upper radiator hose past the thermostat when it opens. So, it's normal for the lower hose to be cool and the upper hose to be hot.
Now, back to the head gasket issue. Head gaskets generally will blow into an exhaust port, rather than into the crankcase. So, pretty common to see a blown head gasket with no water in the oil. This is an easy test. Either with a chemical, available from most parts stores, or with an exhaust gas analyzer which any shop that does emission repairs, will have. That's actually where I'd start, first. Eliminating, or confirming, the head gasket.

Response From Guest

Thank you for the reply!

I actually havent drained the system yet. I lost some coolant each of the 2 times I overheated on the road due to the hot coolant overfilling the resevoir and spilling out the overflow until everything cooled down.

When I changed the thermostat and subsequently removed it again, I just let the coolant/water fall as I was on the side of the road (I know - bad).

I'll be sure to do the radiator tests you mentioned on monday when I drain the radiator. I'll probably pick up the exhaust test tomorrow though to clear that issue.

I'll try to take pictures and videos throughout the processes so those smarter than I in these areas can keep me on track!

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Gatech04

Looks like I forgot to log in (came here via link in update email) but that last reply was me!

I think this will be my tentative process from here:

1) Check exhaust
2) Drain Radiator
3) Fill with water
4) Perform flow test at bottom rad hose
5) Perform flow test at upper rad hose
6) Remove water pump and inspect for damaged impeller
7) .... Fix it!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You'll get it! Let us know how it goes.

Response From Sidom

On that problem I would probably be looking for a flow problem. With no t stat you should have circulation right away. I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump. If you aren't getting a good stream, I would inspect the impeller on the water pump.

94 jeep cherokee overheating

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From bob29 on 94 jeep cherokee overheating

I have a 94 jeep cherokee sport that 6cyl wants to overheat when running the a/c. Its now summer and the tempatures are getting to 105 and up. Recentley changed the radiator hoses, coolant, and thermostat. Going to straighten out the fins on the smaller radiator in front, oil or tranny cooler not sure. Both fans are running. any chance a a/c recharge would help with this problem? Any suggestions are welcome thanks.

Response From bobfrompgd Top Rated Answer

Buy a heavy duty radiator. I have cherokee. a new radiator would help some but get a bigger one, its the only thing that will really solve the problem. Also the electric fan wont come on unless the ac is running or temp. reaches 215 degrees then its to late to bring it down. I put a toggle switch on it so I can control it, huge help. In summer as i start engine fan comes on. Cherokees have weak cooling systems unless they came with a tow package or for plowing snow. Several parts folks told me a larger radiator was not available but they are . look online.

Response From Sidom

In addition to HTs suggestions, take a good look at the fan clutch. If there are any doubts change it out.

Response From Hammer Time

No, no chance of that. Sounds like you just need a new radiator. The one you have has diminished capacity now.

Jeep CherokeeeEngine not turning over

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Jeep CherokeeeEngine not turning over

1992 Jeep Cherokee

So I replaced my lower radiator hose the other day. A few days later, I went to let my car warm up before I got off work and then came back about 30 minutes later, and I come to find, the upper radiator hose had burst a big hole in it. It was still running so of course I turned it off.

So I went and replaced it in -15 weather(not fun, could have been muuuuch colder though) and with that hose replaced, now the car will not start up.

The starter makes a rapid clicking noise and a funny smell if you keep turning the key for too long.

Did the engine seize up after running with very little coolant for so long? Is the coolant that got all over my engine compartment playing with a wire or something? The battery is fine, lights come on, CD player fires up, dash lights come up.

Thoughts?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

I know hindsight is always 20/20, but for future reference, NEVER, EVER, go away and leave an engine running.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? It was running when you shut it off so my guess is that it's not seized. That rapid fire clicking is symptomatic of low amps from the battery. Starter motor takes tons of power -lights and other things don't.

It may take a jump as a test and for more info. Test battery and charging system output. It may have run down battery while warming up before the surprise hose blow out.

BTW - tell me there was adequate antifreeze in this please! Radiator could have frozen and cooling system when trying to circulate was stopped by a frozen radiator and hard on the upper hose - a maybe.

Also - everything getting wet could cause belt to slip and wiring things wouldn't be pleased but to some level the can take that - it's mostly a mess. Overheating naturally can cause an assortment of problems still yet to know for sure.

For the moment - fill cooling system properly as you can and recheck later when it's been run (hopefully) jump or charge battery with a charger. Cleaning battery terminals and cables at both ends can't hurt either but the rapid clicking is that of low amps at the solenoid for now,

T

2001 jeep cherokee classic overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From babygirl53 on 2001 jeep cherokee classic overheating

Jeep starts overheating slowly when driving short distance, than temperature hand drops to 260 after hand gets a little past 210. I have already replaced thermostat, water pump, clutch fan, coolant temp. sensor, radiator and head gasket, and the vehicle still does the same thing. I have no idea where to go next. please help

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Is this actually overheating and you don't have a gauge or sender issue? Which engine?

When it is running hot, does the heater work? Are the upper and lower radiator hoses hot?

Is the air blowing from the engine fan hot?

2003 Jeep Liberty Problems

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From AlyseA on 2003 Jeep Liberty Problems

So my Radiator is cracked and the fan behind it needs to be replaced in my '03 Jeep Liberty. The mechanic is saying that is going to cost me $800 but I feel like I am possibly getting ripped off. Any Help??

2003 Jeep Liberty
6cyl
3.7L
99215 miles

Response From Discretesignals

Are they using dealer parts?

Aftermarket parts at an independent shop should be somewhere around $500. You should call around some of the other shops in your area and do some price comparisons.

Response From AlyseA

So I did some calling around and I was told that for everything I need and service it would only be $490 (at the most) and I was told that for 2 different shops. But one thing that worries me is if its cheaper does that mean they are using used or cheap parts or are they giving me a more honest price than the $800.

Response From Discretesignals

You should ask what brand of parts they are using. Our shop has had decent luck with aftermarket parts. Ask the shop what their warranty is.

If you want factory oem parts, an independent can always install them for you.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just a thought or two: Do those quotes include itemization of everything they intended? The cheaper prices may be just a radiator and the fans. The higher price may include all new antifreeze, perhaps radiator hoses as they would be removed at radiator already and now 10ish years old. IDK, flushing out cooling system.

Dealer parts do near always cost more. Some aftermarket parts are just as good - a few better. Some dealers will use aftermarket parts too. There may be no mal intent with what either would do or consider as part of the job. This isn't instantly a rip off till you know what was included,

T