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Jeep- Belt/Steering Issue

Showing 5 out of 14 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From JayB on Jeep- Belt/Steering Issue

Hello, gang. I used the search function to try and see if this has been covered already, but I didn't see a close result.

03 Jeep Liberty...
Started it the other night, felt a small jerk and went to back out, but the power steering wasn't working. I suspected a fuse, as I blew one once in my wife's car while using it to jump another. I looked at my fuses...the guide inside the cap didn't show one for power steering in my Jeep.

Immediately looked around and noticed that the main serpentine belt on the front of my engine was dangling loose. My neighborhood has stray cats that climb up under hoods for warmth (I found that out in the worst way last winter). I suspect one of them may have knocked the belt free.

I replaced it to where the belt should be, but the belt is loose. Picture- http://twitpic.com/3be30u

Any ideas? Did I miss something with the belt? Is the belt shot? If I should include more information, let me know. Thanks in advance.

Response From Hammer Time

You don't have it routed correctly.
Be prepared. Something made that belt come off and you haven't resolved that yet.

Response From JayB

Thanks Hammer. I was lookingat an image of a different config...suspected I had it wrong.

Any tips for getting the belt on there completely? Seems too tight to get it on easily now. Took off the idler pulley or the tensioner, to fit the belt properly, but now I can't seem to get it back on with the belt wrapped over it.

Response From Hammer Time

Just make sure your seated in all the grooves of every pulley and save one of the smooth pulleys for last.

Response From JayB

out of time & at the finger pain threshold, so I will give it a crack again later or tomorrow. Thanks for the replies.

Response From JayB

Hammer...you got any more tips? I have tried for hours to get this belt on and no luck. Removed the tensioner to get the belt over it, then screw the blot back in...not enough slack for that OR to simply slip the belt over one of the smooth pulleys.

Response From Hammer Time

They are never easy. Make sure you have the right belt.

Response From JayB

It was the only belt dangling around...so it's the one that's been occupying this area for a while.

Response From Hammer Time

I mean make sure they sold you the correct new belt.

Response From JayB

So...the car won't go anyplace, so I don't have a new belt...wanted to get this one that came off back on.

I am looking at some illustrations

and this video...
links deleted

They show that the tensioner should easily move and allow me to get the belt over it, but all I can do is take the whole thing off, but that doesn't help...as I've stated, I can NOT* screw the bolt back on w/ the belt looped over the tensioner pulley. What am I doing wrong?

Response From Hammer Time

You can't post links like that here.

I don't know how you are trying to do this but you need to route the belt around every pulley except one. In this setup, I would leave the alternator until last. Put a socket on the tensioner bolt and hold the belt snug with your right hand. Now pull the tensioner against the spring until it stops with your left hand and simultaneously slip the belt over the last pulley with your right hand. It may be tight and you may have to get it started and then push it on the rest of the way with the heel of your hand.

Response From JayB

I can't post links that show what other material I am looking at besides the advice you are giving me? That makes this process less helpful. The video example showed how easy this should be...and it is not easy for me.

Anyway...like I said, there is no give with the tensioner. It won't move. So what I am asking is...why won't this move to give me the slack that I need?

Response From Hammer Time

You don't need to post an instructional video for everyone else to see. You can see it yourself. We already know how to do it.
I don't know why you can't move the tensioner. You may be trying to move it the wrong way or you may not even be on the tensioner.

Response From JayB Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the time. A bigger ratchet (and maybe the wd40) did the trick.

2004 Jeep Radiator issue

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jandrews1420 on 2004 Jeep Radiator issue

I'm having an issue with coolant spraying out of the front of my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L V8. The problem started small. I was noticing a little bit of coolant on the ground after running the car. Just recently the problem opened up and I can notice antifreeze spraying out of the front of the grill. The car was in an accident about 6 months ago and I believe that may have sparked the issue. I am trying to figure out which part is causing the coolant to spray. I have uploaded a picture to http://tinypic.com/r/3460pk8/6

The coolant is spraying out of the top silver hose in the picture.

Response From Hammer Time

Looks like a cracked radiator. Have it pressure tested.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

#1 - are you sure it's antifreeze and not more that just that? Have you added any yet as you should have had to.

Pic is nice but could be more than just antifreeze and no leaking is a good thing. Accident caused - hard to say and you are probably beyond the limit for "unseen" damages from that but no harm in asking,

T

Your pic below but may not show...........


93 Jeep Cherokee Problems

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From jdsimons2 on 93 Jeep Cherokee Problems

Hi! New to this forum, hoping for some assistance, I know next to nothing about cars, but love to troubleshoot!

My wife's 93 Jeep Cherokee died on her the other morning. It started to smoke, smelled like burning rubber, and was squeeling really bad. It didn't smoke immediately, but only after a minute or 2 of "driving" (going from the street in front of the Apartment to the parking spot).

I popped open the hood and found out where the squeeling and smoke was coming from. It was coming from some sort of belt, or below the belt on the bottom half of the picture. Below is a picture:



Any help would be appreciated! :)

Response From Hammer Time

Your A/C compressor has seized up. Believe me, you don't want to fix this yourself. A/C repairs look simple but require extensive knowledge about how refrigeration works and exactly what other things will have to be done to the vehicle and there will be many. Take it to a reputable A/C shop.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - squealing really bad would point to a compressor failure. Wet belt was what I was thinking as it looked messy in that area,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Smoke, burning rubber smell and squeal after 2 minutes of driving??????? That's a compressor.

Unplug the compressor until you get it fixed.

Response From jdsimons2


Smoke, burning rubber smell and squeal after 2 minutes of driving??????? That's a compressor.

Unplug the compressor until you get it fixed.

Is the car still drivable with the compressor unplugged? What I'm trying to do is get the car into "sellable" shape, since we have moved on from this Jeep :)

Response From Hammer Time

Assuming the clutch is good and the problem is internal to the compressor, unplugging it will prevent it from coming on and make it drivable but you won't have any A/C. You're looking at a big job there.

Response From chickenhouse

IF in fact the a/c belt is dedicated, cut it!

Response From Hammer Time

It is not

Response From chickenhouse Top Rated Answer

ok, see it in the pic now.

Response From Discretesignals

Wow, looks like original hoses and still seems to be using R-12. If it was smoking and squealing without the compressor clutch engaged, something else is going on. Turn the drive plate on the front of the ac compressor. You should be able to rotate it. As Tom noted, what is all that moisture on top of the radiator and front of the engine? You have a coolant leak?

Response From chickenhouse

If in fact the compressor is the problem, cut the belt and remove it. Drivable then.

Response From Hammer Time

cut the belt and remove it. Drivable then.

No, that would not be a good idea. You may have some serious issues without the alternator, water pump and power steering.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Smoke and odor probably a coolant leak up front being blown around to something hot or alone. Pressure test and it should show itself.

Get rid of that temporary hack job to fix a battery cable too as that will be a problem soon. That type repair is really for an emergency only,

T

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Gatech04 on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Good Afternoon,

My 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started overheating and I was hoping to find some help pinpointing the problem. So far Ive replaced the radiator cap and thermostat - neither of which seemed to help. I even took the thermostat out all together and that didnt seem to work.



Here are my most recent observations from the other night (with thermostat still removed):

It took 6-7 minutes to reach a running temp of 210 just idling. Once there, it took only about a minute to get up near 260 when I turned it off.

While running, the large fan directly next to the serpentine belt was running continuously, but the smaller fan nearer the radiator never came on. I didnt try turning the AC though, I'll have to wait for it to cool down and I'll recheck that. I did try the heat while it was running though and only cool air came out.

After I turned it off, the upper radiator hose was very hot to the touch, the radiator cap was warm, the lower radiator hose was cool and both heater core lines were cool to the touch once you got far enough away from the thermostat (hence the lack of heat I assume).

When the engine is off, the large fan nearest the water pump only turns if I have consitent pressure on the blade and the smaller fan nearer the radiator "freewheels".

There are no apparent leaks (no coolant on the ground, no obvious leaks at the thermostat/pump/radiator/hoses/heater core).




Any help in narrowing down the problem would be greatly appreciated? Please let me know if you need more information of if I should snap some pictures.

Here's a video I made of it running with the rad cap off. I didnt let the engine even get to normal running temp, since a good bit of coolant was overflowing and I didnt want to make a toxic mess. I did have the AC on full blast and the little aux. fan never came on, but the temperature never got to 210 either, so Im not sure if that is normal.




Thank you

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
Gatech04; Just watched the video. Is this with the thermostat in, or out? I believe that this engine has a clutch fan as well as an auxillary electric fan for the A/C operation? At temperature, the clutch fan should be 'locked up' and not freewheeling as you stated. I also saw air bubbles coming out of the radiator, indicating either air is still in the system from lack of 'bleeding' or is being put into the system from a head gasket leak which will cause overheating. With the type of 'neck' on the radiator, you may not be able to see if it is flowing coolant unless you lower the coolant level down to where you can see the cores, if at all. As Sidom stated, running it without a thermostat will cause overheating problems, so you don't want to do that, but it is a good test for checking flow. The thermostat is there for a couple of reasons. It keeps the engine at a specified temp (195F-210F is normal) and allows time for the water in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine when the stat opens.

Response From Gatech04

The video was with the thermostat out. I havent noticed anything odd with the oil to indicate a leak into a head gasket - but I'll double check both the dipstick and oil fill area.

My comments on the fan were with the Jeep off. The larger of the two fans - the clutch fan? - was not freewheeling, but the smaller one in between that one and the radiator would freewheel.

I was planning on changing out the water pump on Mon/Tue (I wont have time to work on it till then) and at the same time I would be draining the coolant and re-inserting the thermostat. Does this sound like my next step? or are there other things I should try before doing this.



I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller. Since the 2 hoses going to/from the heater core remained cool to the touch, and since the heater doesnt work now - that would be the indication right?

Sorry that Im not too familiar with these types of things, I am enjoying learning though!

Thank you!

Response From Sidom



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller.



Yes, you're just looking to see if the pump is capable of genrating some good flow. Im memory serves me correct (which ½ the time is don't) there is a steel tube coming off the pump for the heater hose, you could use that line, or Loren's suggestion of the upper hose, either will work & either will make a heck of mess if the pump is good, so prepare accordingly. Impellers problems are definately the less common ones and I wouldn't change the pump "just because" but if you aren't getting any flow off the pump, that's problem.... The a boroscope would be nice, but I don't imagine you have on of those.....

Loren has given some real good steps to find the prob...... I would probably follow those 1st.........

Response From Gatech04

Well I finally had time to work on it again Tuesday night. Turns out the plastic impeller had broken loose from the shaft. I got it fixed and put back together, added a new serp. belt and flushed the radiator. Everything is working great now!

Thanks for all the help!

GT

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem.....good job........ Thx 4 coming backing with the results to your problem........ You may help someone in the future......

Response From lovemyjeeps

I have the same problem described here on my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I just did the upper radiator hose test and only got steam even as temp reached 210. Any sugestions?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You need to start your own thread please.

Read this on how to create a thread:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/FORUM_RULES_%3D%3D%3D%3D_READ_BEFORE_POSTING_P122997/

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Gatech; How did your cooling system look before you drained and filled? Was it very rusty? Not that it matters much, now, but I'm thinking of the water pump impeller as Sidom had mentioned. If the system was very rusty, it is possible that the impeller has rusted away enough to affect flow. It is very rare, but I've also seen the impeller come loose from the hub. (originally, pressed on) Another thing is a plugged radiator. For the following tests, drain and save your anti-freeze so you can re-use it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the lower radiator hose. The water should gush out. Using a garden hose, you shouldn't be able to keep up with the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator. Another test, although may be hard to do, at normal operating temperature, feel the radiator with your hand. The temperature should be equal, throughout. If you feel a spot that is cool, then it is plugged. With the thermostat still out and the engine idling and cold, remove the upper radiator hose. Careful that you don't get a bath. It should shoot water out like a firehose. Of course, only run it for a few seconds to watch the flow from the water pump. If you didn't know, cold water from the radiator goes into the water pump, then throughout the engine, then back into the radiator through the upper radiator hose past the thermostat when it opens. So, it's normal for the lower hose to be cool and the upper hose to be hot.
Now, back to the head gasket issue. Head gaskets generally will blow into an exhaust port, rather than into the crankcase. So, pretty common to see a blown head gasket with no water in the oil. This is an easy test. Either with a chemical, available from most parts stores, or with an exhaust gas analyzer which any shop that does emission repairs, will have. That's actually where I'd start, first. Eliminating, or confirming, the head gasket.

Response From Guest

Thank you for the reply!

I actually havent drained the system yet. I lost some coolant each of the 2 times I overheated on the road due to the hot coolant overfilling the resevoir and spilling out the overflow until everything cooled down.

When I changed the thermostat and subsequently removed it again, I just let the coolant/water fall as I was on the side of the road (I know - bad).

I'll be sure to do the radiator tests you mentioned on monday when I drain the radiator. I'll probably pick up the exhaust test tomorrow though to clear that issue.

I'll try to take pictures and videos throughout the processes so those smarter than I in these areas can keep me on track!

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Gatech04

Looks like I forgot to log in (came here via link in update email) but that last reply was me!

I think this will be my tentative process from here:

1) Check exhaust
2) Drain Radiator
3) Fill with water
4) Perform flow test at bottom rad hose
5) Perform flow test at upper rad hose
6) Remove water pump and inspect for damaged impeller
7) .... Fix it!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You'll get it! Let us know how it goes.

Response From Sidom

On that problem I would probably be looking for a flow problem. With no t stat you should have circulation right away. I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump. If you aren't getting a good stream, I would inspect the impeller on the water pump.

Jeep Comanche

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Jeep Comanche

Where do I fnd the horn on a 1992 Jeep Comanche?

Response From DrElectrics Top Rated Answer

It will be in your user manual. If not, go to your nearest Jeep Dealer and ask them. It won't cost you anything. Why do you need to find the horn?