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Dayco
Qty:
$8.80
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 1 1/16
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 1 1/16
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 7
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1990 - International 4800 L 5900 360 Upper
Dayco
Qty:
$14.37
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Pipe To Radiator
  • Cut to Fit w/Hyd. Brakes
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 13 3/4
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Fuel Type Position Transmission
1983 - International Cargostar V - 392 GAS Lower - Pipe To Radiator Standard
Dayco
Qty:
$14.37
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower
  • Cut to Fit w/o Increased Cooling
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 13 3/4
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Fuel Type Position Transmission
1983 - International Cargostar V - 392 GAS Lower Automatic
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Engine To Oil Cooler
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Type Position Transmission
1994 - International 2554 L 7638 466 DT466 DIESEL Lower - Engine To Oil Cooler Automatic
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Pipe To Engine
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Type Position Transmission
1999 - International 8100 L 10014 611 L10 DIESEL Lower - Pipe To Engine Automatic
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Pipe To Oil Cooler
  • Cut to Fit w/Tank Oil Cooler
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Position
1984 - International Cargostar L - 466 DT466 Lower - Pipe To Oil Cooler
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Pipe To Radiator
  • 90 Deg. Hose Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Position
2014 - International ProStar L - 758 MaxxForce 13 Lower - Pipe To Radiator
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Pipe To Radiator
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2003 - International 2574 L 10309 629 Lower - Pipe To Radiator
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower - Side by Side Intercooler
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - International 4700 L 6687 408 Lower - Side by Side Intercooler
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Lower
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1994 - International 4700 L 6687 408 Lower
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper - Pipe To Engine
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - International 7500 Upper - Pipe To Engine
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper - Pipe To Engine
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2003 - International 2574 L 10309 629 Upper - Pipe To Engine
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper - Pipe To Engine
  • Cut to Fit w/Tank Oil Cooler
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Position
1984 - International Cargostar L - 466 DT466 Upper - Pipe To Engine
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper - Pipe To Radiator
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2007 - International 7600 L 10834 661 Upper - Pipe To Radiator
Dayco
Qty:
$19.60
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2005 - International 8500 L 9342 570 Upper
Dayco
Qty:
$23.70
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Cut to Fit
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/4
    • End 1 Outside Diameter: 2 17/32
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/4
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 22 1/2
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2002 - International 4300 L 7638 466 Upper
Dayco
Qty:
$23.70
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 2 1/4
    • End 1 Outside Diameter: 2 17/32
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 2 1/4
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 22 1/2
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2004 - International 3200 L - 530 Upper
Dayco
Qty:
$12.50
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Excludes Calif.
  • Flex Radiator Hose
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1974 - International 100 L 4228 258 Upper
Dayco
Qty:
$12.86
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Cut to Fit Excludes Calif.
  • Curved Radiator Hose
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Contains Heat Shield: N
    • Contains Protective Sleeve: N
    • End 1 Inside Diameter: 1 1/2
    • End 2 Inside Diameter: 1 1/2
    • Hose Type: Single I.d. Hose
    • Material: Epdm
    • SAE Specification: Sae J20r4 Class D-1, Sae J1684 Type Ec
    • Trunk Height: 19
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1974 - International 100 L 4228 258 Upper
Dayco
Qty:
$9.55
Dayco Radiator Coolant Hose  Upper
  • Flex Radiator Hose
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1969 - International 1000D L 3802 232 Upper

Latest International Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Coolant temp

Showing 4 out of 15 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From fredm on Coolant temp

1990 S10 Chevy pickup 180,000 miles, auto trans, 4.3 V-6
Coolant temp problem acting just like a sticking thermostat. When driving, dash temp gage pegs and then cools back down to above normal for this truck - about 220 degrees. After it goes back down to about 220, it stays about there whether sitting at idle or at highway speed.
What I've done: Replaced thermostat twice. Replaced radiator cap. Replaced both temp sensors. Topped off coolant level. Still have same problem.
What I've observed: Upper and lower radiator hoses are not collapsing. Fan seems to be operating normally. No leaks or squealing from water pump. Serpentine belt is not loose or slipping. Radiator is not blocked and has good airflow. Best I can tell, there seems to be no internal blockages in the coolant system.
I replaced the water pump and fan clutch about 5 years ago. I also added an aftermarket transmission cooler about 10 years ago.
The water pump design is so simple that I just can't believe that is has just quit pumping. Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks,

Response From fredm

Problem resolved! It was the original dash temp gage simply giving erroneous readings. (I can't believe that a 26 year old gage with 180K miles failed - LOL!)
But seriously, many thanks to all of you for your inputs, ideas, and advice.
I considered buying and using the Infared Thermometer, but didn't want to buy that and just use it one time. And if it had shown that the engine was cooler than the dash gage was showing, I would have still had the problem of the bad gage. So instead, I bought a new Bosch manual temp gage and installed that today. That proved the original gage to be the problem and solved the problem at the same. (It seems that the older I get, the lazier I get). But the idea of using the thermometer put me on the right track.
Again, thanks to all for your time and trouble,

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great! You isolated it and if this gauge isn't bothering you let it be. OE will be hard to find no question and wonder if just gauge or what for that.


Call this fixed for now and should close out thread. Sorry for some lengthy details that were on my mind NOT really believing it was really overheating - stuff happens.


Up to you for assorted thermos and more tools. Some are just too handy for when things are NOT working out.


Good luck with this fix now. Locked to keep spammers out and YOU may request it reopened by any moderator as you wish,


T

Response From kev2

check that heater core is not restricted, fan shroud is still there?

I have given up on aftermarket thermostats, such a simple old world part- have had better luck with OEM.

ck that before we dig deeper

Response From fredm

Heater blows hot air when turned on. So apparently it's not restricted. Fan shroud still in place as original configuration. I agree that aftermarket thermostats are suspect - that's why I replaced the first replacement with a second. Don't think I would have gotten 2 bad ones back to back. But thanks for your input.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

IDK - both of us hit at once. You can try a better name thermostat just because like Stant has been good.
Asking for heat at radiator both of us for reasons. Boiling won't throw heat and if gauge says pegged wild hot air will feel cold or cool at heater! Don't ask, trust me it's a clue.
If some don't flow that's an issue now ruled out if you feel heat at all sometimes.
New senders and this spike to max. If you ground one of the wires you can make it read max or unplug will stay cold I think. Made sure it's the one for gauge and not coolant temp sensor which is around there too I think black and yellow wires were OE to that one.
Not convinced you are really overheating yet? My toy is a touchless infrared thermo right at thermostat and for non solids like air outlet temp heat up a small item and test that temp. Radio Shack for a cheap one works fine small as a key fob. They can fool you too so practice on things if you do get one.


Gotta know real temps at the right places. Always need to know engine coolant is properly full - this one not that hard so didn't bring that up before.
Would take time but if hose to recovery tank or radiator cap wasn't correct or failed it would drop coolant level at radiator and would be erratic but first fill would show a leak most likely if so,


T

Response From fredm

This is what I've done in the interim: (I wanted to see if coolant was circulating) Engine was cold. Disconnected top radiator hose at thermostat housing and pushed to side. Cranked engine and let run until gage pegged hot again. During this time, observed that no flow was coming from tstat housing or open hose end. Did observe small bubbles in coolant in tstat housing. Turned engine off and let set for a minute. Cranked back up and coolant started flowing good from tstat housing.
I profess my stupidity in what direction the coolant flows - either into the intake thru the tstat or out of the intake to the upper radiator hose. From the observations, it apparently flows out of the intake to the radiator hose.
In any event, I've concluded this - the water pump is obviously pumping coolant. And apparently this second new tstat is not opening as the engine gets hot. Why it opened after turning the engine off, letting it sit for a minute, and then restarting is beyond me!
For info, the first replacement tstat was the best Stant brand they had - supposed to have had a larger heat sink "motor" than standard. Second replacement was a standard tstat. From the above observations, all I know to try is another tstat, assuming the first 2 replacements were bad products. But that seems awfully odd to me - what do you think about trying a third tstat replacement?
Thanks

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Are you sure you have the thermostat installed correctly?

Response From fredm

Yes, it's installed with the "motor" side toward the intake. I have a Haynes manual, and that' the way it shows. Plus, both new tstats were installed just the way the old one came out.

Response From Hammer Time

Are you sure the temp gauge is correct? Have you verified it with an Infrared thermometer? Is it actually steaming or boiling?

If you are getting no circulation it can only be a problem with the thermostat or the water pump.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fred: I've asked you to verify that it's really overheating at all. Taking the upper hose off is an odd way to test a thermostat but if you are happy with that fine.


Flow is from engine, heat rises, note thermostat is on top to top radiator hose. As things cool they fall normally and by force so return thru lower radiator hose.


What's with this thermostat? Just get the exact specified OE replacement no tricks.


You need some accurate temp device or readings not relying on the dash gauge. This is really spiking should blow up in your face boiling and you haven't said that.


Does it build pressure on its own from cold? If you don't answer these things and don't understand how it should work get help or shown in person. You could be doing something (can't think of too much) all wrong causing this now,


T

Response From fredm

I disconnected the hose to verify that the pump was actually circulating coolant, not to check the tstat operation. And thanks for the explanation of the coolant flow direction. I haven't checked the temp with an independent device. But when the hose is connected and the gage is pegged, the radiator cap is lifting and letting out steam. So it appears that the engine is actually getting too hot.
I'm going to try a new AC/Delco tstat tomorrow. But I have my doubts about brand name products anymore. 2 years ago I had a mechanic install a new electric fuel pump and was adamant that he use an AC/Delco pump. He said fine, but he normally used parts from NAPA, and I would have to go to the Chevy dealer and pick up the pump if that's what I wanted him to use. That's what I did, but printed right on the side of the AC/Delco box it said "Made in Mexico". So it seems that when we shell out our money for brand name products anymore, all we're really getting is the brand name - the companies have sent all their actual manufacturing overseas!
Will let everyone know if the AC/Delco tstat works any better.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Parts and quality can suk. GM totally buys and builds whole cars and parts from Mexico and other countries - TMK they all do. Alone means little to you if part is to the specification.
Companies with a good old brand name sell the name to cheapo too. I say you were right with the GM fuel pump. If that dealer messed with you that's not fair but I see that.


You can pull a very old trick with thermostats with a meat thermometer and pan of water on a stove and watch it open. In that you have these that snap out of it don't think it would prove anything.


OK - AC Delco should be high end for thermostats. I like to see brass and will seek out the Stant owned now Robershaw type which is too confused for this issue.


Alternate thermo. The fob I mentioned is right in front of me now! Was $19.99 + $5 for a little 12V battery so not the world. Less than $10 at Harbor Freight and find a cheaper battery if pinching pennies but double check it at the store before you leave and they are REAL iffy with stuff IMO. BTW - just checked mine with body temp and spot on. Ice in a fridge is....... 5F this instant!
Handy in general but if you point that right at thermostat housing metal when it approaches the stamped/marked rating it should read real close to that and hose warms up in your hands up to a bit too hot to touch.


Radiator must be known full. That means even with this easy one when you fill it you start engine the first time with radiator cap off and watch the level. When t-stat opens it will drop. ALL CAUTION WITH ALL OF THIS PLEASE! Fill with pre-mixed antifreeze and put cap on. Run till warm again and let cool down now before removing radiator cap and by feeling lack of pressure in upper hose a clue it wont flash boil at you - it really can and serious burns!
Repeat that till it's stable. Fill reservoir to the warm level marked on that. If system is tight any remaining air should purge out and draw back only coolant so might drop once or twice still. Now you know it's full. If not no observations are going to really count.
Yes - first shot if looking at temp gauge on vehicle might spike and quickly drop to a normal reading.


BTW - Most with thermostat up top as this engine almost don't need to drain radiator at all! Just clean up the small spill as it's on top.


Heater hoses when running should both feel warm on almost all. Not to complicate but run it and know many engines use heater to run coolant to rear of engines as a bypass alone or in addition to a separate hose which a 4.3 doesn't have TMK.
FYI: Coolant thru radiator on this is side to side to end tanks. ENGINE OFF you can feel by hand hotter up top at fan side and cooler at bottom. A cold spot is/as a way to check if radiator is blocked. Again all caution that the engine is off and be fast.


None of this is worth getting hurt over.


Sorry this is giving you a hard time. Stuff happens that is or isn't your fault and has to all of us no doubt just know to look were faster for the issue.


Manuals at best are not a full training course of every possible reason it doesn't work perfectly the first time - know that,


T

Response From kev2

X2 from first reply.
I have given up on aftermarket thermostats, such a simple old world part- have had better luck with OEM.
see your local chevy draler.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Two thermostats w same results you can rule that out. Do you trust the gauge? This layout should stay at set temp once warmed up no matter idle or at speed.
Just carefully feel upper hose from a cold start for softness and feel it build both pressure and finally get warm even feel warm air off fan.
If hose never builds pressure, pressure check system.


If in question about real temp put to floor vent heat full blast highest temp - that should be about what engine coolant temp is minus some. If it goes cold then warm again by itself it's boiling or air in system.


? Water pump shaft: If it really could break such that it didn't turn all the time or intermittently it would have a cold radiator while overheating - careful checks for where. I TOTALLY DOUBT THAT!
Is antifreeze mix even close to 50/50? Pure antifreeze can do this an no antifreeze can do this.


Would help to have a thermometer to check real temps to know if it's real info or sending bad info,


T

'98 stratus overheating, sometimes

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Question From son on '98 stratus overheating, sometimes

a '98 dodge stratus, 2.4l, with +175,000 miles. had a water pump and timing belt replaced about 20,000 miles ago. not by me. im pretty sure its a blown head gasket. when i drive it to work, about 35 miles, runs at normal temp. i drive futher than that it will start to get warm. its losing antifreeze. when it warms up itll start alittle white smoke out of exhaust. also getting bubbles thru thermostat. both heater lines get warm. also feel surge in upper radiator hose when fuel is pressed. no coolant in oil or oil in coolant. ive actually ordered the parts. just last ditch effort to not have to pull it apart. also looking at the motor, if i do have to replace the head gasket, am i going to have to drop the motor? from looking at it, i dont think that the damper is going to clear the frame. i dont think theres much room to do anything on that end of the motor. any help is very appreciated

Response From Guest

I see no mention of actually replacing the thermostat, have you?

Response From son Top Rated Answer

actually no i havnt... i discussed it with a friend who knows more than me. but, who by no means is a mechanic.. he thinks its internally blown.. thats how its burning coolant. and letting exhaust in. not ready to spend my weekend on 1 guys opinion

Checking and Adding Coolant to a Radiator - What type and when

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Question From auto parts addict on Checking and Adding Coolant to a Radiator - What type and when

If you have no reservoir, here's how to check the coolant level (after you get the radiator cap off) and add liquid, if necessary:

  1. Look down the hole in the top of the radiator; you should be able to see the liquid an inch or so below the place where the cap screwed on. If the liquid is below the fins in the radiator, or you can't see it at all, the level is too low.
  2. If the level is too low, pour a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant down the radiator hole until it covers the fins or reaches an inch or so below the cap.
Warning!!!

  • Coolant is usually red, green, blue, or yellow. If it looks colorless, looks rusty, or has things floating around it, flush your coolant system and add new coolant.
  • If the coolant has a sludgy, oily surface, immediately take the car to your mechanic to check for internal head gasket leakage.
  • Coolant is very toxic and cannot be disposed of except at special depots set up for this purpose. Call your local toxic waste management agency to find out where you may take coolant for disposal.
  • While you're messing around the with your cooling system, feel the radiator hoses, too. (They're the big hoses that go into the top and come out of the bottom of the radiator.) If they're leaking, cracked, bulgy, or squishy, they should be replaced.


  • Source: (link removed)Repair by Deanna Sclar

    Response From SantaRosaMechanic

    thanks for the info sir. besides what you have said, is there a specific time period to change engine coolants?
    and what coolant would you suggest to use? thanks! have a nice day!.
    \

    Response From Hammer Time

    According to the coolant manufacturers, your normal green coolants and red in the Toyotas is a 2 year coolant and should be changed at those intervals. DexCool and other silicate free coolants sold now claim 5 year intervals. I would be a little careful with the Dexcool though. If it has air introduced to it in the system, that drastically reduces the life of it.

    If the long life coolant gets contaminated with even a small amount of regular coolant, then it all becomes a 2 year coolant.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Just want to add and it's highly opinionated: I won't use DexCool (brand named product) again in anything except to Winterize a summer cottage or somethine else.

    Use the best now clear or green EG and do change it no matter what the claims are is my suggestion. It's not going to lose freeze protection but with assorted metals now widely used the corrosion protection is more important than ever!

    T

    Response From Hammer Time

    Dexcool only has a problem when used in a car with a leak that aerates it. It will sludge over time in that situation.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    Thought I had it saved, but there was a class action suit against Dex-Cool. I agree with Tom, I wouldn't put in my lawnmower.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Anybody can sue anybody. That doesn't make them right. Nobody has won anything yet. Have you read the TSBs and factory info on it? There really isn't any difference except the color between Dexcool and all the other extended life coolants that are on the market today. If there is air in the system along with the coolant, it will sludge up.


    Here's one that refers to the problem


    A/C - Cooling System Overheating/Heater Blows Cold Notes
    File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
    Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-012D
    Date: April, 2002
    TECHNICAL Subject:
    Rust in Cooling System, Heater Inoperative, Blows Cold Air, Engine Overheats (Flush Cooling System) Models:
    1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models (Blazer, Jimmy, Sonoma, S10 Pickup)
    1998-2000 GMC Envoy
    1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
    with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X - RPOs L35, LF6)
    This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-02-012C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
    Condition
    Some customers may comment that the heater is inoperative, blows cold air, engine may exhibit an overheat condition or the coolant reservoir has rust in it.
    Cause
    Vehicles equipped with DEX-COOL(R) coolant, which may have been operated for extended periods of time with a low coolant level, usually in excess of 32,000 km (20,000 mi), may be susceptible to the formation of a rust-like material in the cooling system.
    Correction
    Flush the cooling system using the repair procedures that follow.
    Parts and equipment required/suggested for this correction are listed below. ^ 1 each *Prestone(R) Flush and Fill kit # AF-KITP U.S. (# 00050 in Canada). This kit can be obtained from your local parts supplier and can be used on all vehicles repaired under this procedure. Save it after performing the repair, as it is reusable. ^ 1 each *Prestone(R) Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500 - 1 per vehicle. This cleaner is in powder form and contains a neutralizer. Do not substitute other cleaners. The diluted cleaners that are available in liquid form are not recommended for this repair. ^ 5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% (non-diluted) DEX-COOL(R) coolant (GM Spec 6277M). ^ 1 each new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335. ^ 2 each new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. 1 each *Prestone(R) yellow funnel. This funnel can also be obtained from your local parts supplier. It fits snugly into the radiator opening for an easy fill and is reusable.
    * We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources. Important: Verify the fuel level in the fuel tank. The fuel level should be above 1/4 tank before this procedure is started.
    As a precaution, verify the oil level in the crankcase. Add the amount required to bring the oil level into the normal range.
    It is recommended the vehicle be placed in a position so that the following are available: ^ A sanitary sewer - not a storm drain, etc. ^ A monoxivent system (if the outside temperature is less than 10°C (50°F)). ^ Hot running water Notice: Due to the complexity of these procedures, the following repair steps must be strictly adhered to in order to achieve the intended results. Any deviation or substitution may result in sub-standard cleaning/flushing results or system damage.
    Diagnostic Procedure 1. Install the Scan Tool. This will allow monitoring of the coolant temperature throughout the procedure. Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible. Important: ^ The installation of a NEW radiator cap at the beginning of this procedure and the second new cap at the end of the repair procedure is necessary in order for the correct pressure to be achieved and for the repair to be completed successfully. ^ The radiator cap is NOT a good indicator of the general condition of the cooling system. Typically the underside of the radiator cap will exhibit a greater amount of contamination than the rest of the system. It is important to evaluate the condition of the cooling system by checking the following before beginning the repair procedure: 2. Remove the radiator cap. Install a new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. A properly operating radiator cap is essential for this procedure to work properly. Be sure to wipe off all radiator cap sealing surfaces prior to installation. 3. Start the engine. 4. Using a flashlight or lead light, look into the radiator. From the right side of the vehicle, peer into the radiator toward the left side of the vehicle. Observe the top three rows (or tubes) of the radiator. (It may be necessary to drain off some of the coolant to see the top three rows of the radiator).
    If it appears the coolant is able to flow through the third row down from the top, the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure A. If it appears the coolant is NOT able to flow through the third row down from the top, then the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure B. 5. Stop the engine.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

    >>If there is air in the system along with the coolant, it will sludge up. << It sure will. I've never seen green anti-freeze do that. It's only GM's that were seeing with the corroded quick-disconnects and intake gaskets leaking due to the Dex-Cool. 'splain that, Lucy.

    Response From Hammer Time

    It's only GM's that were seeing with the corroded quick-disconnects and intake gaskets leaking due to the Dex-Cool. 'splain that, Lucy.

    And just who is it that has concluded that corroded pot metal and intake gasket failures are caused by Dexcool?

    It couldn't be that GM is the only one that uses that design gasket and pot metal connectors...............?

    Dexcool is the most widely used coolant of anything made now and the problems are minimal.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    >>It couldn't be that GM is the only one that uses that design gasket and pot metal connectors...............?
    Dexcool is the most widely used coolant of anything made now and the problems are minimal. <<

    So, it's the metal that GM is using? Why, is it, when you get that crap out of the system and change it over to green, the problems cease? Just because it may be 'most widely used' doesn't mean anything. And, what about the sludge? Is that acceptable? I know that air introduced into the system can cause rust, impeller damage, (owner neglect) ect, but Mud? We don't see it with the Mopar or Aisan crap, just Dex-Cool. Use what you wish. We'll have to agree to disagree.

    Response From Hammer Time

    So, it's the metal that GM is using? Why, is it, when you get that crap out of the system and change it over to green, the problems cease? Just because it may be 'most widely used' doesn't mean anything. And, what about the sludge? Is that acceptable? I know that air introduced into the system can cause rust, impeller damage, (owner neglect) ect, but Mud? We don't see it with the Mopar or Aisan crap, just Dex-Cool. Use what you wish. We'll have to agree to disagree


    And what do you have to back up any of that? I have seen plenty of GM intakes leak with green coolant. I have also seen plenty of connectors rot out with green coolant. The other coolants haven't even been around long enough to say they don't have the problem. The sludge only occurs when the cooling system is abused and not maintained properly. The "most widely used" comment indicates that is is currently driving around in more cars "without sludge problems" than all the other coolants combined. All these other coolants are just Dexcool copy cats.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    Use what you wish. We'll have to agree to disagree.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf


    Loren, Hammer - readers,

    Obviously this has opened a can of worms. Appreciate the concept of "Agree to disagree" re this product. It's still an ethylene glycol hazmat product just like the others but some how exaggerated claims from the beginning were not realistic for the general public.

    I've personally had TWO issues with OE DexCool and that was enough. What Loren calls plain "green" is sold by a well known maker "Prestone" and others. IMO it matters more what additives you put in with the base of any of them.

    Right now - all changes by me are going to be colorless PEAK product - comes in a gold container and damn if is doesn't cost a fortune too. Boldly stated that it's not 2yr, 5yr but rather PERMANANT - compatible with any EG based antifreeze to use to add.

    Note: PEAK by brand used to be blue! I'm getting old man! The color is added as EG is colorless by itself. I may be misinformed but almost all is made in one place and sold to be brand named with assorted additives later.

    Re: Lawsuits - Egad I hate that stuff and disagree with that almost always. I much more for the "personal responsibility" line of approach.

    If a company knowingly produces a product whole or in part and advertises wild claims it ought to be held responsible for that. Should this mean millions to ONE person - I say no. There are folks who pay attention to the letter of suggestions by product makers and got burnt and there's also something to be said for that!

    With world wide monetary issues of the last year it's getting hard to be "brand loyal" as when you check who owns and runs what seems to change by the week!

    Copy of this thread sent to John Hess - owner and publisher of Cool Profit$ Magazine out of Petaluma, CA.

    There's a lot written and or published by him on this topic,

    Tom Greenleaf (Volunteer at CarJunky.com)

    CC: John Hess - IMcool@IMcool.com
    9 Natalie Circle
    Petaluma, CA 94952-3281

    Response From Hammer Time


    Right now - all changes by me are going to be colorless PEAK product - comes in a gold container and damn if is doesn't cost a fortune too. Boldly stated that it's not 2yr, 5yr but rather PERMANANT - compatible with any EG based antifreeze to use to add.

    Sorry Tom, I can't let this ride.

    About the only difference in the Peak you refer to and Dexcool is the color dye. They are both silicate free coolants. The only thing that makes them compatible with any EG based coolant is the yellow color which will blend with any other color. Other than that, it's Dexcool and no more permanent than Dexcool is. If it is contaminated with green coolant, then it becomes a 2 year coolant, just like the green.



    /Texaco-Havoline_DEX-COOL_Extended_Life_Coolant.pdf

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Smile all - back from my short run to Maine - nice state!

    I have to default to just say my view is somewhat "Once Bitten - Twice Shy" type thing. All of these are still Ethylene Glycol bases if my eyesight (marginal sometimes) read it right. OK: That's what allow for freeze protection. The whole rest of the game is additives IMO.

    Hey - even John Hess mentioned above (friend for afar) doesn't agree with some things I do for now (retired) for my own and family vehicles. I use the "anti-rust" junk separate additive but not the whole bottle in all! I don't have the part # but NAPA sells a "radiator sealer and block repair" product actually made by Macs that I put like one ounce in also. It's not the sawdust approach type stuff!

    With that combo I had remarkably good luck with LACK of surprise problems.

    My own 97 Chev has Texaco's DexCool in it right now but I will switch next time to something else. Those vehicles with a radiator cap on radiator if you lower the coolant level you usually get a good look at the tubes of a radiator to know how well things are going. When and if I see something other than clean tubes there - then I act.

    Best I can say is to continue checking things all around a vehicle and decide from what you notice IF something isn't working out.

    Back: As far as the law suits against said product my guess is most were neglected - again an opinion??

    T