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1985 international truck air problem

Showing 6 out of 7 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From john510 on 1985 international truck air problem

OK here is what I am dealing with and maybe someone can give some insight on what to look for or what to do with this air conditioner system
Older 1985 International Truck, was a r-12 system that someone supposedly removed the older oil and changed over to newer R-134a
so here is what I did, when I started this the truck air conditioner compressor would cycle but no cold air, at one time there was cold air but that was last year.
Now to today, I removed the old rusted out receiver /dryer and replaced it with a new one and replaced 1 new line that was bad and rusted. Before installing the new line and receiver/ dryer I removed the lines off the compressor and flushed the condenser and and the evaporator with a flushing agent for air conditioner systems, the blew all lines out with air until nothing was coming out . installed the new line, receiver/dryer, new o rings, and re-installed the lines on the air conditioner pump with new o rings. then vacuumed the entire system, low and high side for 45 minutes. Watched it for 5 minutes after to insure it maintained negative pressure before starting to load it.
I started with a 6 oz can of ester oil and r-134a and noticed the pressure with the unit running shot right up low side 35 psi ,high side stayed low , pump would not engage. Added another 6 oz can of the ester oil with 134a and unit running but pump still would not engage, for some reason I was not getting power to the compressor unit? so I added 12 volt power to engage the pump manually while running to see if the unit would load any r-134a, the low side seemed as if it did not want to take the 134a, and noticed the pressure on the low side going to 80 lbs while the high side stayed all the way down to about 20 lbs?


What would stop the power from getting to the compressor ? why is the pressure not correct? what turns the pump power on and off? I didn't see a expansion valve or orifice tube where is that hiding and could these cause the problems? I dont knwo why it would cycle before I did this stuff? and ideas I m showing some pictures , may be I can get a little help, thanks

Response From Hammer Time

You have an expansion valve system and the valve will be at the evaporator.

There has to be something wrong with your gauges or hookup because if the compressor isn't running, the pressure has to be equal on both gauges. The 80PSI should be sufficient to engage the compressor if that is actually the pressure inside the system and not just at your gauge. Those York compressors used to have a backseat shutoff valve at each service port that had to be opened.

Here's what the shutoff valve looked like


Response From john510

NO mine does not have a shut off valve like you show, but I will look under the dash at the firewall for a expansion valve, I didn't see anything outside for one sure it has one, and the gauge es are working fine, that's what bother me.. I want to see if the expansion valve is the problem I will have to locate it.
Funny how no power gets to the system I checked the wire at the compressor with a test light and no power with everything running?

Response From Hammer Time

The expansion valve is not your problem and your gauges are not working right. As i stated, if you are not seeing the same pressure after 5 minutes, your gauges are wrong. It's all one storage tank when the compressor is not running.

Response From Discretesignals

You must of had a fun time flushing the evaporator with the expansion valve in the way.

Response From john510

You must of had a fun time flushing the evaporator with the expansion valve in the way.

Now that I look at it was little hard but did go thru...

I will check with another set of gauges on both sides and the unit off to see if the pressure is the same..

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It's nearly impossible to flush an evaporator to start with but it absolutely can't be done with an expansion valve in place. If you did force some fluid through the valve, it's likely still sitting in the evaporator which will be a big problem, depending what you used.

20'05 International School Bus - O2 Sensor Issues

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From PontiacPower on 20'05 International School Bus - O2 Sensor Issues

Hello, everyone. I have a 2005 International school bus and have encountered an odd problem with my O2 sensor and the problem is recurring.

It all began about five months ago when the bus began putting out clouds of black, cold exhaust. I took it into a truck shop to discover that the O2 sensor was shot. We replaced it but not even a week later the sensor goes out again. We replace it once more, only for it to go out... yet again!

Does anyone here with diesel vehicle knowledge have any idea on how to fix this?

Additional Information:
Year of vehicle: 2005
Make of vehicle: International (IC Bus)
Model of vehicle: BE Series Bus
Engine size: MaxxForce® 7
Milage/Kilometers: 157,053 Miles

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

something is not right- luckly you can access the PCM, look at codes - engine sensor readings etc.

I suspect the o2 sensor would set codes as it 'fails' you have not mentioned anything about codes or scanning etc so I want to mention as it is a missing piece of the puzzle.
Most likely the o2 sensor is not the culprit but is being affected by another issue likely - fuel issue, is this a international dealer?

Response From nickwarner

O2 sensor? Thats not making much sense in a diesel. What is the exact model of the engine? Most IH busses use the DT466E motor. You are obviously overfueling. I wonder if this "O2" sensor is actually the EGT sensor and being confused by someone not familiar with these.

I don't have access to the guides on the HD diesels right now, but you may be able to find some info for how to get blink codes out of it on YouTube or something. Thing is you're going to need a shop with an ISIS subscription to get much troubleshooting info out of the codes.

I would start looking at some basic things here, which you may or may not have the tools to do. Get the CAC pipe off of the turbine outlet and have a very good look at the turbine blades. If you find any cracking or damage you will need a new turbo. If there is a bunch of oil inside the housing you will likewise need a turbo, as the seal for the turbine bearing is gone. If you have any broken blades you not only need to replace it you need all the ducting to the CAC through to the intake taken apart and cleaned of debris.

If the turbo is still intact you will want to verify what boost levels you get. You need to plumb a gauge into the pipe going into the intake. Should be a pipe plug somewhere along there you can tap into with a gauge. Take it for a drive and accelerate, watching to see how much boost you can make. If its very low, your ECM will end up overfueling as it is expecting more air than it is getting. You get black smoke from that.

If you are getting low boost you will then want to perform a pressure test of the entire CAC system to see if the boost is bleeding off through leaks.

Forgot to mention at the top, first thing you need to be checking is the air filter and ducting heading to the inlet of the turbo. If its plugged up or the filter is damaged it will restrict airflow. See a lot of that mostly on agricultural applications that are around a lot of grain dust but still possible in OTR type is its parked a lot. Maybe even a mouse nest in the air cleaner.

PCM Internal Voltage Failure

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From divalewis on PCM Internal Voltage Failure

Can anybody lead me in the right direction. I have a diagnostic code that is PCM Internal Voltage Failure and EGR Temp. SEnsor Circuit above max. voltage, pressure feedback EGR circuit voltage low, insufficient EGR flow, pressure feedback EGR sensor voltage higher or lower than expected during KOEO. These are all my problems. I have no idea what they mean. Does anyone know of my cheapest way to solve the problem and about how much it would set me back. Thank you

Response From Indytech

Can you get us the codes so we can help you more.
Indy.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

As a wild guess, is this a Ford? Please give us make, model, year and engine size. The more information we have, the better we can help you. As Indy tech stated, please post the EXACT CODE NUMBERS.

International 4700 DT444E

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From thexpress2002 on International 4700 DT444E

I have an International 4700 DT444E. She starts right up. Runs strong. Engine warn light comes on and I have no throttle response. The engine does not stall and continues to run. After 2 mins the light will shut off and throttle response returns for a period of time before the light comes back on.
I have taken off the throttle sensor and the readings are amooth when engaging but then OL at a certain point.
Thoughts?

Response From Discretesignals

Probably going to have to hook up a scan tool to that and see if any codes are being stored. You may have caused a TPS code by unplugging it, so you'll have to clear any TPS codes out of history. With the scan tool you can monitor the TPS voltage the computer is seeing.

If your getting dead spots (OL) doing a TPS sweep, you could have a faulty TPS.

Response From thexpress2002 Top Rated Answer

Thank you for responding. The reason for disconnecting the tps was due to running diagnostic test on the truck. codes came back with reason to believe this was the issue.

When disconnecting tps, placed the volt meter on it, it smoothly increased and decreased, but OL when "floored"

Response From Discretesignals

I'm not a heavy diesel mechanic, but the TPS should work the same as it does in a gasoline engine.

You must be testing resistance with a ohm meter to be getting an OL reading. The TPS on a gasoline engine would go OL if there was an open in the TPS sensor. Your meter can also go OL if the reading is out of the scale it is set on.

Another way to test it is to back probe the TPS connector with the tps installed. There should be three wires on the connector for the TPS. That is unless it has another circuit for a close throttle switch.

You back probe the connector at the signal return wire, which is usually the middle wire on a three wire TPS. The other end of your volt meter gets hooked to ground. Turn the ignition on and you should see voltage sweep in a linear fashion for something like .6V to 4.5V. That is if the sensor is getting a 5 volt reference from the computer.

brake pedal fade

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From Avery on brake pedal fade

I have a 96 Ford Explorer 4x4 w/ a 4.0 and the brake pedal fades to the floor if I let up on the pedal. Somebody told me to check the RABS module by pulling out a spring from behind a bung, then put the bung back in and see if it still fades. Not sure what they mean... I know where the RABS module is but not the bung. (or if this will even work)

Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

Havent heard of the RABS spring deal.

The brake pedal fades to the floor when your pressing down on the brake pedal? How is the fluid level in the master? If the fluid level is good, you might have a piston seal leak in the master cylinder. You should also inspect the braking system on all 4 wheels to be sure they are in working order.

Response From Avery

Fluid level is full and I've been under the vehicle looking for leaks, can't see any. Thought about the master cyl. but wanted to ask first about the ABS and if it could be that. If I hold down hard on the pedal it doesn't seem to fade, only as I start to let it up. Like going down a hill... push... let up just a bit... push... let up just a bit. Soon it's to the floor.
Thanks for your help !!

Response From Discretesignals

Don't think a RABS modulator would cause something like that. Beside, doesn't yours have 4 wheel antilock brakes? I'd be more inclined to believe it would be a problem with the master cylinder or a seized caliper guide pin. If you try the master cylinder route, probably wouldn't be a bad idea to flush the brake system and inspect the rest of the components.

Response From Avery

I'll look into the MC a little better... is there a way to tie the lines together or disconnect them and plug them and then pump the pedal and see if it by-passes

Response From Hammer Time

You would have to make some type of flare end plug to plug off the master to test it. That's a little tricky.

Response From Avery

tried the 'slamming on the brakes' on the dirt road... stops real good but if I play w/ the pedal it still slowly will go to the floor if I pump it. Thinking I'm gonna be changing the master cyl here soon (just happy I have a 2nd car)

I really do appreciate the help... I'll let you know if that works
Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just curious - will this brake pedal fade if just sitting still, engine off without even a key in the thing? If so that is pretty damning for a bad master cylinder,

T

Response From Avery

Tom... no, it doesn't fade when the engine isn't running.

Trying to buy a MC today and they are asking about whether it's got a Proportioning Valve... how the heck do I tell that. It's got Cruise Control, that ones easy

thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Didn't see that question for this. Did see cruise control or not. Adaptor came with a NEW one for ABS and mentioned if failure that I take as a blowout of fluid somewhere requires centering a pressure differential valve which sounds a lot like a proportioning valve to me elsewhere not in or on master cylinder itself.

That dang site I use can be all wet (as in wrong) too so take with a grain of salt,

T

Response From Avery

I found a part number using my VIN... BRMC 41. (???) Doesn't sound like a Ford part number but when I plugged it into the Motorcraft site it came up a new MC. Now if I can cross reference it to other manufactures. I like Motorcraft but dang $$$$$$

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You should get a NEW master cylinder. Near certain rebuilt ones are no longer available for sale here (MA) nor other assorted brake parts. My quick look showed this wasn't expensive for a whole new one with tank and a bleeder kit.

Search the web to your hearts content but when you want to buy unless in the boonies somewhere just call your favorite local parts store and ask and you can find if in stock and who made it hopefully right away,

T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If you're getting bypassing and not losing any fluid it can basically happen in 2 places. It can happen internally in the master cylinder or internally in the ABS hydraulic unit. I have resolved a couple of them by taking it onto a dirt road and slamming on the brakes so the ABS kicks in real good. When the bypass solenoids open internally it will sometimes flush out some trapped dirt particles.

Response From Avery

I live on a dirt road... gotta try everything...