Shop Gmc Radiator Hoses

I hope someone can help me:

I have a 1997 Gmc Z71 Sierra pick up. The connector broke off on my radiator hose from the heater box back to the manifold. The bottom 2/3 of the threads are broken off. Does anyone know how I can remove from my manifld the threads from the broken connector? I can post pictures if need be.

thanks a bunch

DUSTY

I think I know what you mean but the picture would be nice.
I’ve used a large easy-out before but if that doesn’t work, you may need to get in there with a small hacksaw blade. Make three equally spaced cuts in what is left of the inside of the spigot and then collapse it into itself, you should then be able to remove the cut pieces.
The small cuts that are left in the threads of the manifold can be sealed with silicone as the new spigot is threaded in. Only cut as deep as need be to collapse the spigot.
Dan.

Alright we are on the same page. I thought I would try to collapse the broken off threading (about 3/4 of an inch of threads from the 1" diameter fitting) that are stuck in the manifold. I wanted to post here before doing anything to see what ideas I got.

I have never used an easy out tool. I thought that they were to remove bolts etc. I did not realize that they might work for a hollow threaded break off such as this. I have the new fitting so I am first going to see if I can find an easy out that would work to remove it.

If that fails I am going to collapse the threads in and remove them as suggested. When I am cutting with the hacksaw do i need to be concerned about the shavings? I could position a shop vac hose over the area if that is a good idea, or is it not a problem if some of the shavings fall down into the manifold?

Do I need a specific type of silicon that is heat sensative to seal the new fitting into the manifold? That seems like a much better idea than what I had which was to use teflon tape.

I have attached a picture of the new fitting. As I stated about 3/4" of the threads are broken off inside the manifold. The break is flush too. The metal is actully crumbly where it broke. The part left in the manifold seems to be less brittle though.

Thanks again for any and all help.

I'll follow up with a progress report.

cheers

DUSTY

Well it sounds like you are going in the right direction so keep me informed, I would like to know how you make out with this.
As far as the shavings, don’t worry about them there won’t be all that much and it’s the cooling system that isn’t all that fussy about a “little” crud floating around. (Notice the quote around a little)
The silicone to use is just any form of automotive style, not what you would use on your house windows. LOL
The only other thing I want to warn you about is the threads are pipe threads, they start out shallow and get bigger towards the hex, so be careful when you tighten in the new spigot not to break it off..
Like I said please let me know how the job works out, I hope it goes well.
Dan.

I think that I am in the clear.

Here is what happened.

I first called Adavanced auto parts and they said that the hose was a dealer part and I'd need to call the dealership.

I called the dealership and they said they had to order the hose (which was actually fine) but had the connector. I was able to pick them up Friday.

I asked some friends at work and another suggestion was to try to get a diamond punch to bite on the inside lip of the threads and get er spinning out that way. I thought this sounded like a good idea to try before using the hacksaw blade.

I called all around trying to find a diamond punch bit nobody in town had one. I called back over to Advanced Auto Parts and got someone on the line who new 2 whits about my problem. He said he had a prick punch which I might be a ble to use. Also suggested a liquid teflon thread sealer to seal the fitting. He also had for me a solid steel fitting that was much beter than the aluminum piece of crap the dealership sold me. Almost 10$ less expensive too!

I tried the punch but it was hopeless. I had a cheapo chisel that i bought 2 for 1$ at the dollar store for just some purpose as to mangle on a project like this. It seemed to wedge perfevtly down inside the opening. I managed to get the tang loose from the handle and proceeded to chuck the tang of the chisel into my brace and bit.

I torqued down that brace real good onto the chisel. It was set firm up inside the broken off stump off the old fitting. I huffed and i puffed but i could not get that sucker to budge. I sprayed in some more solvent and walked away. Let it soak real good. Went to pick the wife up from work (since i had her car all day) came home and drank a beer. Anyway i got back too it and the chisel broke free.

I took to the hack saw. I cut through in 2 spots. Pried out the first piece , then cut the 3rd slot and removed the last two pieces of threading. I wedged the shop vac hose over the area where i worked to make sure no debris fell in the manifold. Sombody warned that a chunk of that threading could cause a blockage, so i took care to see that all sections of the threading were removed by hand.

I coated the bottom 1/4 inch of the fitting with the thread sealer. It was a bear to get threaded. All i have to use is a cresent wrench. I am gonn see if a friend has a socket big enough to fit over it to get it threaded further (if he feels it needs to be).

I have driven the truck and the temp seems fine and the fitting seems to be holding as well as the seal. Can anyone think of anything else i need to check? I'll try to folow up with a pic of the new fitting in place.

thanks again for the help Dan,

now I can get back to my woodworking. If you have any carpentry questions i am there for ya'

cheers

...and drank a beer.

Some day I'm gonna write a detailed essay on the impact Budweiser and Miller has had on the auto repair trade.

Great post even if a long read. That silly thing that puts the heater hose into the manifold is a pest. Like Dan said a few bits of junk in the cooling system shouldn't be a problem. It's aweful sometimes that one stupid thing can cost your whole day or more! It happens, Keep your hair and your marriage!

Hello I have I 1983 gmc c1500 truck 5.0 engine I have all of the hose hook up and took of the the heatercore to see if maybe plug blow on one end of hose water came out easy you turn on the heat and the thing blow warm for just a min and then cold air comeing out of it let truck run for 30 min felt the water in the rader it was just warm not hot.

Coolant must be full at radiator and can take a cycle or two to burp out air after being open. Is heater truly cold or just lukewarm? From cold, upper radiator hose should stay cold to the touch till engine approaches the thermostat's rating, typically about 195F for this engine.

If the hose warms up early then the thermostat is letting coolant pass too early to be cooled when already not warm enough,

T

Ok I have a GMC 2002 Savana cargo van. 5.0L V8. 110,000 miles total. I checked my coolant level and it was low. I statrted to check it every morning and it would be a bit low. So I started checking around and found a crack in the black plastic on the left side of the radiator that holds the unused engine oil cooler tank. Ok no problem I replace the radiator and the upper and lower radiator hoses. The new radiator came with a few fittings. I install the appropriate size fittings for the transmission lines. I did not add any teflon tape....it appeared they had tape aready on them. Maybe I should have added my own.

Anyway I tightened them in good and snug. I drove it around the block and had a small leak out of the threads of each transmission line. I tightened them a bit more. Drove it around the block about 2 or 3 miles and no more leak. Today I drive the van all day in 100 degree heat and I'm getting a leak at the threads between the threaded fitting where it screws into the radiator.

Also the lower hose is some off brand.....its too short and the serp belt will rub it if I dont cheat the hose were it connects to the lower radiator connection by about 1" I think I'm going to find another gates hose like I originally had.

My question is why do you think my threaded fittings are leaking? And what would you do to stop the leak? I'm thinking teflon tape but aren't those inverted flare fittings?
My tranny lines connect to this fitting with clips......my problem is where the steel fittings screws into the radiator threads.

Thanks guys!

Just use some teflon tape or gasket sealer on the threads.

Just use some teflon tape or gasket sealer on the threads.



Thanks for the reply. I guess i will try the teflon 1st. I did the repair because it was on sunday when I found it and I had work scheduled for monday. I own a small plumbing business. I typically do not do my own auto work.

1988 S15 Jimmy, can't find RPM wire and temp sensor for gauge. Input would be appreciated. I have an 1988 S15 GMC Jimmy, It had a 2.8L V6 but I put a Chevy 350 in it with Electric fans and a MSD distributor which runs on a switched power lead and a RPM wire. I am trying to retain the stock gauges and I wanted to know (A) Which wiring harness off of the stock 2.8L distributor contains the "RPM wire" and which wire is it and (B) which sensor sends the temp signal to the temperature gauge, is it the temp sensor/sender in the cylinder head (runs on oil temp) or the temp sensor/sender in the intake manifold (runs on coolant temp)?

I am asking because I must retain the one that sends the temp signal to the temp gauge while replacing the other one with the new temp sensor that runs the electric fans.
Thanks a million!!!

Ok, as far as the "RPM" wire (white), i've found and matched that up... so that's good! As I understand the temp sensor in the intake manifold (2 wires, yellow and blue), which I've also matched up and the colors are correct, is for the computer for fuel delivery purposes so i'm going to leave that as is. And as for the temp switch in the cylinder head, i'll just try to use the existing one from the 2.8L because its 2 prong with 2 wires and the 350 temp switch is only a 1 wire and might not be compatible with the gauge IF I can get it to work.

But with all of this being done another problem has presented itself. As is so common with these kinds of engine swaps, since I'm leaving the existing temp sensor in the intake manifold for the (PCM), the intake manifold doesn't have anymore spots to put my new aftermarket (1 wire) temp sensor for the electric fans. So my question is: Is it ok to just put the fans on a switched (+) lead so they come on with the truck and stay on, or do I splice the "1 wire" that would've gone to the aftermarket temp sensor for the fans into the PCM temp sensor (Yellow or blue wire) and have it work that way? Or are there any other suggestions? I know Jeg's sells a temp sensor that slides into the upper radiator hose, would that be a good alternative?
Thanks again guys,
-GMHead