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Gates
1995 Chevrolet Lumina Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2DC0AD2    W0133-1830745  New

Qty:
$16.32
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Brand: Gates
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1995 - Chevrolet Lumina
Gates
1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-383CFB6    W0133-1633087  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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1995 - Chevrolet Monte Carlo
Gates
2000 Chevrolet Impala Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0589CD9    W0133-1632924  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
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2000 - Chevrolet Impala
Gates
2000 Chevrolet Impala Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-15EEC38    W0133-1763812  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
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2000 - Chevrolet Impala
Gates
1998 Chevrolet C1500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4BB016C    W0133-1630886  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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1998 - Chevrolet C1500
Gates
1998 Chevrolet K1500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4BB016C    W0133-1630886  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • with 140 Ampere (RPO 8A5)
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Brand: Gates
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1998 - Chevrolet K1500
Gates
1998 Chevrolet K2500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4BB016C    W0133-1630886  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • with 140 Amp Alternator (RPO 8A5)
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1998 - Chevrolet K2500
Gates
1997 Chevrolet Astro Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1E0A9CD    W0133-1866893  New

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1997 - Chevrolet Astro
Gates
2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-599F201    W0133-1775343  New

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2006 - Chevrolet Trailblazer
MacKay
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-5A76946    W0133-1687071  New

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2002 - Chevrolet Avalanche 1500
Gates
2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2EBCC69    W0133-1779330  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
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2006 - Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT
MacKay
2004 Chevrolet Colorado Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

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2004 - Chevrolet Colorado
Gates
2003 Chevrolet Express 1500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-314E6F5    W0133-1867762  New

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2003 - Chevrolet Express 1500
Gates
1992 Chevrolet Blazer Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-45E78D4    W0133-1633401  New

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$14.64
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • with 34" Wide Radiator - Excludes 3500HD
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1992 - Chevrolet Blazer
Gates
1991 Chevrolet C2500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-24918C3    W0133-1688421  New

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$21.92
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Brand: Gates
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1991 - Chevrolet C2500
Gates
1992 Chevrolet C2500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-24918C3    W0133-1688421  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Excludes 454SS
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1992 - Chevrolet C2500
Gates
1991 Chevrolet C3500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-24918C3    W0133-1688421  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
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1991 - Chevrolet C3500
Gates
1989 Chevrolet R2500 Suburban Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-24918C3    W0133-1688421  New

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  • w/o Air Pump
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1989 - Chevrolet R2500 Suburban
Gates
1994 Chevrolet C3500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-24918C3    W0133-1688421  New

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
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1994 - Chevrolet C3500
Gates
1992 Chevrolet C1500 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

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Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • 454SS
Brand: Gates
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1992 - Chevrolet C1500

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 Chevrolet Implaa running hot

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Thosell on 2004 Chevrolet Implaa running hot

2004 Chevrolet Impala 3.4L 85k miles, running hot.

Started running hot a few weeks ago. Had never changed antifreeze - needed bad - a lot of sludge. Flushed with commercial product and replaced antifreeze. No problems for a few weeks. Started running hot the other day, so I replaced the thermostat. First run was ok, then next day started overheating again and the needle was fluctuating a lot. Would go up and down, fairly quickly. Yesterday, replaced the heat sensor. First run, no problems, held a steady 210 degrees. This morning 72 degree temps outside, started running hot again, got up to 230-240 degrees, then went back down while driving. Drove home this afternoon, 90+ degrees outside, and stayed at a steady 200-210 degrees.
Should I replace the thermostat again? I have no leaks anywhere, (and water pump is not leaking). I have never drove the car hot. I have stopped everytime it has ran hot and turned it off. Antifreeze is 50 - 50 solution. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Thosell

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If this was loaded up with Dexcool sludge then you likely haven't flushed it sufficiently. It takes a lot of flushing to get all that stuff out of there. The best way is add some more flush to it and run it for a while and then remove the thermostat and the upper radiator hose and run the engine with a hose in the radiator feeding it fresh water. Your going to have to be careful where you do this too because the coolant will stain the ground and kill animals. Keep running it until it runs clear and put the thermostat back in.

2000 Chevy Cav. Serious coolant leak

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Xyos212 on 2000 Chevy Cav. Serious coolant leak

2000
Chevrolet
Cavalier
120,000 miles

I recently had my car fully serviced for general maintenance, checked all fluids, etc at a shop. About a week after that I was driving and lost heat, then engine overheated. Turns out I ran out of coolant (it was flushed/filled prior to this).

Brought the car to the shop, they had it for 3 days, and just did a coolant flush, said they couldn't identify the issue but thought it was fixed. Get the car back, use it for one day. Next morning I look under the car (underneath engine towards front of car) and see ALL the coolant has leaked out (it was green, easy to spot, and smelled sweet like coolant).

I take it back to the shop again, they say two radiator hoses need to be replaced. Use the car a few days more, but am paranoid now. Leave a bucket under engine and see that it is STILL leaking (although very slowly this time, from around the center of my engine, a bit towards the front of the car).

Driving to work today and "low coolant" light is turning on and off intermittently. Engine temperature seems a tad hotter than normal (around 200 normal, was around 225). For both visits/renting a car to get to work this has cost me around 700 dollars so far :(

I am going to try to find a more reputable mechanic in my area. Can you guys help me in any way? Maybe give me some insight to tell the mechanic working on my car? Is Goodyear good for car repair? I would GREATLY appreciate any help, as I am pulling my hair out over this.

Response From Hammer Time

I would stay away from all of the chain store locations. Find a reputable Independent by other people's word of mouth.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pay attention to this no matter what. I don't car for the format of the "chain places" either. You may or may not get the same tech with a comeback.


If nothing known locally thru friends try a motor club for those on their list? Independents are about always the best bet as they would have everything to lose with a bad reputation.


Gotta take care of this somehow and soon. Leaking that fast CAN'T be hard to find and could cause a lot of damage if not tended to,


T

Response From Xyos212

Thank you for the help! It seems like almost all my coolant is gone again! :( Do you guys think I should try to get my money back from this place? I found a good local place I am going to try.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hate to say it but pay with a credit card so you have leverage. Looked back to top post. What the heck took 3 days to do a coolant flush + change and all go wrong? Did you also say you rented a car in that time? Arrrrrrr!


When totally in the dark dealers are usually good, more money but might have nice perks like a loaner car (free even) or rides to home or work etc.


Fighting is always a lose, lose situation over who is responsible for what if a mistake of some sort. Try to not overheat this car as damage is about certain from just that if you do. You aren't expected to know if you pay for stuff but this might be quite difficult to fill properly and know it's full.


Here I'm totally happy to plug AAA motor club. Without looking 1-800-AAA-HELP -- join up if in your area. Discounts on all sorts of other things pay for the membership really and they do have a plan with 100 mile included towing to any dang place you wish once per same issue. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO USE THEIR OWN AFFILIATED PLACES!


Again, friends, co-workers, neighbors who are happy with a place. Don't look for bargain but rather quality which is always better in the long run IMO.


This is serious with your car. By the time you lose heat it's way too low or overheating risking engine problems you may not have had before this,


T

Response From Xyos212

I do actually have AAA. I just called the repair place, they are taking my car in for free and fixing it and refunding my last repair. I am staying there this time until its fixed. I will not use this place again after this is done.

AAA came in very handy for me during this whole thing, got the 100 mile a year package.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hope it's all good new and done with this time AND no damage found,


T

2005 impala overheating problem

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From jwd2256 on 2005 impala overheating problem

Car info:
2005 Chevrolet Impala, 3.8 Series II, 90,000 miles.

I'm having a problem with my 2005 Impala LS overheating. I took it to a Firestone Auto Care shop and they did a diagnostic test on it. What they told me was that i need to repair or replace my radiator, change thermostat, replace radiator cap, and they recommended that i changed the radiator hoses in a few months. I took my radiator to a radiator repair shop where they checked for leaks and cleaned the radiator out, then i put the radiator back in and replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. It still overheats though. The temperature gauge fluctuates a little while i'm driving and if i go up a parking garage the temperature gauge need goes almost up to the red zone. I would really appreciate any help

Response From Discretesignals

If you have the ac turned off and it is running hot, are the cooling fans running on high speed? Do they ever cycle off?

Did you remove the radiator cap and make sure there is enough coolant in the tank after the engine has cooled down overnight? Did you pressure test the system after the radiator repair to make sure you don't have any other leaks?

Response From jwd2256

Yes, if i have the AC turned off it still runs hot and the fans switch on when its hot and then turn off after. I did check the coolant level again and it was full still. I didn't pressure test the system because it costs $90 each time where i live. Firestone never said they found any leaks so i dont know.

If you have the ac turned off and it is running hot, are the cooling fans running on high speed? Do they ever cycle off?

Did you remove the radiator cap and make sure there is enough coolant in the radiator after the engine has cooled down overnight? Did you pressure test the system after the radiator repair to make sure you don't have any other leaks?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Yes, if i have the AC turned off it still runs hot and the fans switch on when its hot and then turn off after.

These fans are designed to run at two speeds. High and low.

If the fans come on and then go off while the engine is idling with the ac off, your not overheating. If the fans are running full blast and never shut off and your gauge is getting into the red, your overheating.

There could be a problem with the gauge. If you had a scan tool, you could monitor the engine coolant temperature. Fans on those will kick on low speed around 217 degrees F. If the engine temperature gets up to 230 degrees F, the PCM will turn the fans on high.

You can also use a laser thermometer aimed at the base of the coolant sensor to see if the temps jive with your gauge.

1998 Lumina barely runs. Help?!

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From aspire2create on 1998 Lumina barely runs. Help?!

1998 Chevrolet Lumina: 170,000 miles. Former fleet vehicle, purchased at 130,000 miles. I have performed regular maintenance (oil changes, plugs, filters, fluid flushes, etc.) as described in the owners manual. Replaced battery and alternator around 150,000 miles, and water pump, radiator, hoses, and seal in rear of engine around 160,000 miles due to leaking coolant. The problem now might stem from an incident that happened a long time ago: Hit a raccoon around 155,000 miles, it ripped out the driver’s side plastic wheel well insert. I picked it up from the side of the road and put it back on. The car got horrible gas mileage, cruise control did not work, and the heat did not work well for a couple months. When the weather warmed up, I found a broken vacuum line (no idea what it was attached to), so I capped it. The heat and cruise control began working again, and the car ran much better. However, it would die if idling for around 5 minutes or more. The engine seems to idle so slow that it would die, and acceleration was poor. Since I usually take the bus and do not use the car very often, it hasn’t been much of an issue over the past couple years. Yesterday, after not driving the car for a month, I started driving and it shook as I drove down the road. When I stopped, the engine seemed to pulse as if cylinders were not firing or something. The headlights pulsed as well from bright to dim and back. The battery seems to have plenty of charge, and the alternator is not very old, so I don’t think either of them is the culprit. Today I replaced the air filter, checked the spark plugs, and added complete fuel system cleaner to the gas in case it was due to gunked-up injectors. Now the Service Engine Soon Light is on, and it is running worse than ever. It died 3 times during the test drive, and I had to keep my foot on the gas when I stopped to get back home. As a college student, I don’t have a lot of money, so I would like to do the repair myself if possible. Also, I don’t want to spend money buying any more parts to fix it until I know what the problem is. Any idea what the problem is, or where I should start?

Response From steve01832

Start with checking spark at all cylinders. If you find two cylinders dead then you have either a bad coil or module. Swap the coil with another coil and see if the dead cylinder(s) move with the coil. If the problem moves with the coil swap. bad coil. If the problem doesn't move with the swap, bad ignition module.

Steve

Response From aspire2create

Checked the ignition coils and module for spark as you suggested. There is spark on all cylinders. Any other ideas?

Response From steve01832

The next things to check would be fuel pressure and injector pulse. With a fuel pressure guage connected to the test port, we should have a key on engine off pressure between 41 and 47 psi. With engine running pressure should be down between 35 and 40 psi.
You will need to install a noid light into each injector connector and start engine. Make sure the light flashes. Do these tests and post back with the results.

Steve

Response From aspire2create

Solved it! I found someone with a code reader and found out it was the EGR valve. It was stuck open. Replaced it and all my problems went away. Thanks for your help!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

aspire; An EGR valve caused all of those symtoms??? I seriously doubt it, but, glad to hear that it is behaving, now. Thanks for letting us know. Next time I hit a racoon, that'll be the first thing I check. LOL. Have a great week.

Response From aspire2create

LOL. I don't think the problem had anything to do with hitting the raccoon. Its probably just a coincidence that the EGR valve started sticking around the same time I hit it. The EGR had never been replaced before and was totally caked with soot so it would not move at all. Had I known it was such a simple repair, I would have done it a lot sooner.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for posting the follow up. Glad to see it is running well now.

Steve

1997 Chevy Tahoe Power Steering Problem

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From kmullins on 1997 Chevy Tahoe Power Steering Problem

Hello,

My Truck
----------
I have a 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe 4x4 with the 5.7 Liter Engine.

History
--------
I had a shop replace my power steering pump approximately 2 years ago. They are not the most creditable shop so I can't guarantee the job was done properly.

Up until recently, I have had no problems with my power steering. The belt doesn't even squeek. One problem I did have that might have caused problems is that I froze my truck (no anti-freeze) and had to spend a couple of days thawing it out.

The Problem
---------------
I was pulling into a parking spot and my truck suddenly became very difficult to steer. There were no noises or any other hints at a problem aside from the steering issue. I did not pull the turn too tightly.

I managed to drive the truck home. I checked the Power Steering fluid and it looked fine. The belt still turns the power steering pulley just fine. For some reason, the truck just isn't getting any aid from the power steering system.

Questions
------------
Does this sound like a typical power steering pump problem or could there be another problem? I thought it was odd for it to just go out like that, especially without the normal sounds you would hear when they go bad.

This thing looks like it's going to be a major pain to replace. From experience, do I just start from the top and taking off parts until I can get to it?

Thanks!

Response From Sidom

Those are pretty straight forward to do, just take the lines off, bolts off the pump, transfer the pulley and reverse.
Those are good for breaking the shaft. Just take the belt off and tug on the pulley, if it comes out the shaft is broken...

If the pump has been working ok for 2 years, then the shop did alright installing. I'm just curious why you would use a shop you were leary about....

Response From kmullins

Thanks a lot! I'll give it a go and leave my results here in case someone else comes across the same situation in the future.

To answer your question about the shop: They were trusted by my grandma and family but it turns out they like to cut a lot of corners, lie about parts expense and condition, and anything else they could to save a penny.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

YOU FROZE THIS WITH NO ANTIFREEZE! You didn't say how long or cold but the weak link will be the radiator first and tanks on ends of it. If frozen solid you didn't get away with it with just water. Why in the heck was just plain water in there?

If an "R" code engine alternator is right up top. You shouldn't be able to turn it by the fins by hand but would if now antifreeze has it so lubed up nothing is turning properly from spray of antifreeze now from a broken who knows. PS take a bit of a grab to work on the belt and would suffer as it would just slip even if belt was ok.

BTW - "freeze plugs" went out with the Model-T. It's the common name but they are "core plugs." They are are NOT protection from total cracking of major engine parts but rather to clean out the block and other parts during manufacture and even if one pops out doesn't protect the engine,

T

Response From kmullins Top Rated Answer

haha yeah, it was definitely stupid on my part. I had a bad line in my radiator hose for a while and couldn't afford to keep putting Antifreeze in it so overtime it became mostly water. And then all of the sudden I got sick and couldn't get the line changed and filled with radiator fluid before the weather changed.

Luckily I ended up getting the line and heater valve changed, the truck thawed out, and filled it with antifreeze.

As far as I know there wasn't any antifreeze spraying on the belt but I'll check it out just to be sure. Thanks for the suggestion and info!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry you got sick. Use of just water should be reserved for just to save your life to get home or to safe place. I don't know of an engine, radiator, coolant areas in intake manifolds that can possibly survive a real freeze.

You don't want to know it but if all this has cracks and broken stuff a whole new engine with assorted extras could be 6-7 THOUSAND bucks!

In a jam - cut the lower sprung gasket (rubber) of radiator cap or some you can just pull off. Now with zero pressure system a small leak will be real slow. I keep zero pressure caps on hand for road calls if a vehicle only need to go a bit further.

No matter - this should be pressure tested to see what damage is done. You'd be the only one I ever heard of to get away with no damage unless there was just enough antifreeze left in it such that it would still freeze but would contract, not expand. Bet with this a pressure test will show a squirt of antifreeze on belt which would still turn but slip and make no noise when steering. The cold alone shouldn't have caused a sudden pump failure alone which would be the broken shaft not related to use of just water.

You may have gotten lucky with the engine if even protection was at about 15-20F above the mix wouldn't expand but still freeze.

Test some things out - you may have gotten lucky,

T