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Chevrolet S10 Heater Issue

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Question From DudeItsCristhian on Chevrolet S10 Heater Issue

Hey, I own a 1994 Chevrolet S10 Pickup with a 2.2L engine. The mileage is 122,5XX. I am currently having trouble with the heater as it blows lukewarm air in heater and defroster mode. After checking under the hood, I noticed two pipes without a hose connected to either one in the back. Does anyone know which specific hoses I need? Also, could anyone tell me if there's more that could be causing the heater issue? Thanks in advance for any help!

Response From DudeItsCristhian

Quite sad that I come to a forum searching for a little help and answers from others who are more car savvy, yet I get mocked for my lack of mechanical knowledge. Sidom, if the case is that the heater core is leaking, I shouldn't have too much of a trouble of finding one and replacing it. My question now is, what are the names of the two hoses I need and do I need to buy any other accessory for the heater core?

Response From Sidom

Pls don't take their replies in the wrong light.... Just a little bit of light natured humor, nothing directed at you.
I can be the worst offender at times but the only way I got out of my cage today was by promising to say in line...

Doing the heater core is actually a pretty big job, which involves a lot of dash work. Depending on you level of expertise it may or may not be in your range...

If you look at that heater hose going in frt of the heater core, that is one of the hoses that goes on to the heater core. They just took that hose and put it on the fitting for the other hose, kinda of a loop to take the core out of the picture. You may need to go to the parts store to get another piece of heater hose to go from the other heater core fitting to the engine....

I would hook the core back up and see what you got....More than likely it's leaking but you will never know until you hook it back up and run it......

Do that & let us know what you have......My database is down right now but I'm fairly certain the dash needs to come out on this one to replace the core....

Response From DudeItsCristhian

I understand. I just want to learn more on how to deal with cars from others that know what they're doing and in no means want to bypass anything or fry my engine. The previous owner rigged this thing up pretty badly so I need to go back and fix it one piece at a time. I will go let you know once I get the hose hooked up what's up.

Response From Hammer Time

The hoses are off for a reason. I'm sure the heater core is leaking into the truck and that's why it was bypassed so you need a new heater core and that is a major job on the truck.

Response From Hammer Time

if the case is that the heater core is leaking, I shouldn't have too much of a trouble of finding one and replacing it.

You know, it really is something that makes us giggle. That heater core is an 8 hour job for a professional. Excuse me,but if you can't identify the heater hoses, you have no business even considering that repair.

Response From Sidom

Heater cores don't usually get bypassed for no reason, usually it's because they are leaking...

You can see the heater hose if front of the heater core pipes in your picture. You can hook the 2 hoses back up, but more than likely the heater core is leaking....

Response From Hammer Time

It's pretty hard to have any heat when the heater isn't hooked up..........

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer


Response From Tom Greenleaf

LMAO II - go ahead and bypass a heater core and don't complain when engine is blown!


1987 chevrolet silverado v 20 instrument gauge cluster problem

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Question From jackieehaines on 1987 chevrolet silverado v 20 instrument gauge cluster problem

1987 Chevrolet Silverado v 20 installed new tank and sending unit with new fuel pump truck ran great. Gas gauge wasnt working took instrument cluster out replaced instrument cluster truck won't start ?

Response From jackieehaines

Security light on don't see none but I'll look it up in the Haynes manual if it has one.. thanks

Response From Hammer Time

If the year is correct it won't have one. That would also mean that the dash cluster has no bearing on the running of the car as it would with later models.

Is the starter cranking normally?

Response From jackieehaines

The truck turns over. But the fuel pump is not coming on at all and I tested it and. It still works properly checked the wires and the grounds to the front of vehicle and I got nothing. I have lost the wire as it enters the vehicle but hopefully find it when I get home and continue tracing it. I am really at a loss of what it could be

Response From Hammer Time

Does it come on for 2 seconds when the key is first turned on?

Response From jackieehaines

Wiggled the plug in the back of gauge cluster and for some reason fuel pump came on truck started ??

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That's pretty odd because the dash cluster has nothing to do with the fuel pump.

Response From jackieehaines

I agree totally don't understand

Response From Discretesignals

If it has dual tanks, maybe you had a connection problem with the fuel tank selector switch?

Response From jackieehaines

Dual tank selector connector prongs were corroted cleaned truck it working great thank you all so very much

Response From Hammer Time

Is there a security light on or flashing when you try to start it?

Response From Discretesignals


Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, I saw that. Thought it may have been a mistake but i doubt it being it's a V20.

chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

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Question From someguy214 on chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

4.2 L vortec iL6 24valve
115,000 miles
when leaving work with temps below 0 I started my trailblazer and let it sit for say 2 min ( I used my remote start so it was running for a little bit before I got to it.) got in and checked the gauges as usual when its below 0 and they looked fine. backed out and heard/felt a bang. thought I might have hit the car next to me but I was 5 feet away from it. figured the noise was ice falling off from underneath that I ran over.

got to the first red light I felt a vibration in the gas peddle, which is normal in the cold when I start driving at first. gauges still fine.

got to another light about a mile down the road, the vibration in the gas peddle got my attention and I turned down my heat and heard this awful noise coming from the engine. gauges still normal.

this is not my video or car but this is the noise it makes. however when mine makes this noise it does not seem to be as consistent in timing, it's more random. it is also louder, I got home and my parents came outside to see what in the world was happening.

link deleted ........................ not allowed FORUM RULES

while driving I noticed at certain rpms (low ones seeing as how I didn't want to go higher) the noise would sometimes slow and stop then return as I left off the gas. no change in engine performance otherwise. exhaust sounds the same.

here are the things that have already been replaced / cleaned in the engine:

belt tensioner pulley
belt tensioner (bearing on the other side)
went through 3 belts
6 sparks plugs (bosch platinum 4 pin)
oil cooler lines
power steering lines
air intake (by choice, it gives better gas millage)

throttle body
air intake
fuel injectors ( by local shop )

115,000 miles

the video says its a bad rod bearing but I like to believe its not haha.
any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some questions and comments: ZERO is cold enough of course. Handy as it is I don't like starting a vehicle unattended.

I'd check what was already done. Belt(s) pulleys new or not may have failed already.

What was cleaned and how? Cleaning an engine if that's what you meant is a bad idea and worse if cold out.

The video of someone else's problem isn't helping for yours.

Engine need those plugs taken out and OE spec and brand put in. If engine is misfiring bad enough causing noises it should have thrown a code.

Issues with ice up to icicles that can touch ground from heated engine when parked and snow or ice was on vehicle should quit right away or could really break something if in the wrong places and only looking.

This noise continued so my guess is something broke,


Response From Discretesignals

Need a link to the video of your vehicle, so we can hear what it sounds like.

Response From someguy214

oh all the parts that were installed and cleaned were not installed to try to fix the noise. I made that list just to give as much info as possible. all of those parts and cleanings were installed/completed above 60 degrees F. additionally I have told 3 mechanics about the spark plugs I installed and they do like OEM parts but they were fine with them.

I had a suggestion elsewhere that it might be the flex plate dragging or contacting something. will have a look at that soon.

posting a video of my own will take a while, very little time to spare atm.

also thank you for the responses so far.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This post not much help just some notes and questions: I live this weather and it's routine for temps alone with or without a wild assortment of types of snow. Light fluff to crushed ice or even chunks if already plowed can harden plenty to break parts.

* Are you familiar with the conditions or is this all new to you?
* Rubber anything can get very hard. Oils anywhere thicker even inside shocks and struts. You can get a creek or harmless sound when first moved but it goes away - yours didn't apparently.

* Plastics at some point and type get brittle and crack or break.

? What viscosity oil are you using? It matters!


Response From kev2

reading the post I have some questions, thoughts.

I see BOSCH plugs amd a air filter something - these are problematic - (polite for POS). anything else that is not OEM?

You did NOT mention engine codes- or if the CEL works.... a scan is a place to start.

I am suspecting this vehicle is not babied. you cancheck oil - and particles in oil, pull dip stick they will appear as metal flake - a silver paint look in oil.... what is pressure,gauge the same reading ?

Are you familiar with using a dowel, screwdriver, to help locate source of sound- engine top. bbottom, front rear etc?

Response From DanD

I agree with everyone here, on using OE ignition; but I don't think this is a plug issue. There's no mention of a check engine light and they have said it runs fine.
They did say that the noise goes away sometimes and comes back when slowing down.
So with that I'm guessing it might be a broken starter drive return spring. When accelerating the gear will be pushed back away from the flywheel. When braking the drive will slide up against the flywheel and make enough noise to scare anyone.
The first time I ran into this was with a front wheel drive GM. It would only make this erratic scrapping shrieking sound on right turns. Wasn't that a crazy time diagnosing. LOL
We found it by letting the vehicle idle and 4 guys rocking the car as hard as we could from side to side.
Every time the right side was higher then the left we got the noise. Pulled the inspection cover and there was the drive happily siding back and forth on the armature shaft.


Response From someguy214

DanD described what happens with the noise perfectly.

here is some info you guys wanted:

K&N cold air intake

I use a mechanics stethoscope to locate any noise sources - it's how I found the two bad belt tensioner bearings
not familiar with the dowel rod and screwdriver method
checked the oil, full, no strange color or metal shrapnel

the vehicle was previously ( according to the dealership ) driven by a soccer mom, I can honestly say I don't drive like a maniac either, especially in this cold weather recently. I try to keep to low rpms with this cold weather we have been having.

no warning lights what so ever on the dash
I am going to ask my uncle tomorrow who has been a mechanic for 30+ years fixing equipment for fire/police/ambulance departments. He has a code reader to see if anything is up.

I know you guys are really on about those spark plugs but I have had them in for 3.5 years and have had no issue with them, includes a trip to Florida (no stops except to eat and restroom), and 2 trips to North Carolina ( also no stops except to eat ). additionally if the plugs were misfiring or had a bent pin I would have to think the engine would run rough, very rough. I have not turned it on since the noise started but performance was not affected.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I always like Dan's thinking. Yes the what I'll call "piggy back" solenoid and starter drive very well could even stick and not retract far enough or perhaps at all would really make a wild noise and probably wreck the ring gear also called flywheel gear.

They are spring loaded to retract and lubed. Lube could be like gum? If retracting spring plain broke then it would care much anymore about temperatures and stay doing it.

That listening with a rod thing for noises/bearings is plain dangerous. I do it and so far haven't shot a 30" screwdriver thru the side of my head touching a moving part improperly. Use a stethoscope and save the dangerous stuff/tricks/shortcuts for those aware of the risks IMO.

If that's it you could possibly see it thru inspection plate or take starter out to check that out,


Response From someguy214

oil coolant line came loose and was caught by the radiator fan

caused a smell so will watch to make sure the clutch in the fan is still good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - you found the reason. Fix that now. Is that for engine oil, transmission fluid or what? Check that level NOW or all of them.

Fan/fan clutch. Who knows but the fan blades if they were (sure seems like it) touching something need to be very carefully inspected or just replaced. If those are out of balance or damaged that would be the next problem down the road. If clutch driven clutch may be fine but hurt by imbalance. Domino effect of problems possible from one thing that caused it. Seems you are early so try to limit the possible troubles right now.

? What broke that allowed lines to move? Fix that and know they can't just rub on things where held or with each other along their route,


Response From Hammer Time

That's a very expensive electronic fan clutch.

Response From someguy214

some brackets broke from rust. a quick zip tie for now holds it back enough to not hit the fan.

fan is fine

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

thats great news- thanks for the follow up.

My favorite easy and inexpensive

Response From Hammer Time

I'm going to close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can reopen it upon request.

Response From Hammer Time

Bosch plugs cannot be used in that vehicle. They will not run correctly and cause numerous problems. Use only Delco in that engine.

1996 Chevrolet Sierra 1500 Pickup Fires - Won't Start

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Question From soup on 1996 Chevrolet Sierra 1500 Pickup Fires - Won't Start

1996 Chevrolet Sierra 1500 Pickup
Engine - 350
Mileage - 226,000

Truck is getting fuel, it sparks yet it won't start. Battery is good but goes dead after trying to start truck, new spark plugs, getting a spark, getting fuel.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

What is the fuel pressure?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Zackery - what is fuel pressure? Killing the battery trying will probably cost a starter motor and battery to the bill and not cheap on these,


2007 Chevrolet Express 2500 Used Cargo Van

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Question From samrick on 2007 Chevrolet Express 2500 Used Cargo Van


I am selling used 2007 Chevrolet Express 2500 Used Cargo Van.I am buying other vehicle for my business.You can read all the related information here
link deleted

The van's condition is good from every perspective.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Not here, you're not