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Seal Power
2005 Saturn Relay Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Seal Power

P311-315D4EE    224-4152  New

Qty:
$78.75
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Design Feature 1: 3/4" Inlet Tube
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • Feature 6: 3/4" Inlet
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN
2005 - Saturn Relay V - 213 OHV L
Seal Power
2005 Saturn Relay Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Seal Power

P311-529BAB3    224-4152V  New

Qty:
$98.31
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Hi Vol Pump (20% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump) Check For Pan and Crank Clearance
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Due To The Nature Of Performance Applications, Speed-pro Parts Are Sold Without Any Expressed Warranty Or Any Implied Warranty Of Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Federal-mogul Shall Not, Under Any Circumstances, Be Liable For Any Special, Incidental Or Consequential Damages Which May Arise And/or Result From The Sale, Installation Or Use Of These Parts.
    • Design Feature 1: High Volume; 3/4" Inlet
    • Feature 1: High Volume Oil Pump
    • Feature 2: 20% Additional Volume Of Oil
    • Feature 3: Inlet: 3/4"
    • Feature 4: Second Design
    • Feature 5: Application-specific Design For Perfect Fit And Correct Operation
    • Part Alert: Check Pan For Clearance
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Speed-Pro® delivers the power you need and the value quality that you deserve. Whether you are running at the track, chasing trophies on the strip or just cruising down the road, count on Speed-Pro to provide the best value in HP engine components.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN
2005 - Saturn Relay V - 213 OHV L
Victor Gaskets
2005 Saturn Relay Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Victor Gaskets

P311-1104EF8    601-1922  New

Qty:
$92.61
Victor Gaskets Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Standard Pressure, Standard Volume Pump Requires 3/4in Pickup Tube
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gasket Or Seal Included: No
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Material: Cast Iron
    • Meets or Exceeds Original Equipment Manufacture Specifications: Yes
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN
2005 - Saturn Relay V - 213 L
DJ Rock
2004 Saturn Ion Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 2.0L DJ Rock

P311-33CDF17    OP314  New

Qty:
$151.22
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • Oil Pump Includes Timing Cover
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Version Engine VIN Position Submodel
2004 - Saturn Ion L - 122 DOHC Ecotec P N/A Red Line
DJ Rock
2005 Saturn Relay Engine Oil Pump - N/A 6 Cyl 3.5L DJ Rock

P311-03A1F09    OP3115  New

Qty:
$60.30
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN Position
2005 - Saturn Relay V - 213 OHV L N/A
Sealed Power
2005 Saturn Relay Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Sealed Power

P311-3247139    224-4152V  New

Qty:
$98.31
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Check For Pan and Crank Clearance Hi Vol Pump (20% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Due To The Nature Of Performance Applications, Speed-pro Parts Are Sold Without Any Expressed Warranty Or Any Implied Warranty Of Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Federal-mogul Shall Not, Under Any Circumstances, Be Liable For Any Special, Incidental Or Consequential Damages Which May Arise And/or Result From The Sale, Installation Or Use Of These Parts.
    • Design Feature 1: High Volume; 3/4" Inlet
    • Feature 1: High Volume Oil Pump
    • Feature 2: 20% Additional Volume Of Oil
    • Feature 3: Inlet: 3/4"
    • Feature 4: Second Design
    • Feature 5: Application-specific Design For Perfect Fit And Correct Operation
    • Part Alert: Check Pan For Clearance
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Speed-Pro® delivers the power you need and the value & quality that you deserve. Whether you are running at the track, chasing trophies on the strip or just cruising down the road, count on Speed-Pro to provide the best value in HP engine components.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN
2005 - Saturn Relay V - 213 OHV L
Sealed Power
2005 Saturn Relay Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Sealed Power

P311-50DBB58    224-4152  New

Qty:
$78.75
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Design Feature 1: 3/4" Inlet Tube
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso & Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • Feature 6: 3/4" Inlet
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN
2005 - Saturn Relay V - 213 OHV L
Genuine
2007 Saturn Outlook Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-2042F39    W0133-2009890  New

Qty:
$187.54
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Incl.Front Cover
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Outlook
Genuine
2009 Saturn Outlook Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-2042F39    W0133-2009890  New

Qty:
$187.54
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Saturn Outlook

Latest Saturn Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

oil light lights

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From rdonderosr on oil light lights

1999 saturn 4 cyl 50,000 miles oil light comes on at times. someone said it may be a oil switch can anyone tell me where it is located and how to test it? thanks

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

The way to test it is to remove the sending unit and install a mechanical gauge and get an accurate pressure reading. It it stays up and does not fluctuate, replace the sending unit. If the oil pressure is low, possibly oil pump or bearing wear.

Response From rdonderosr

any one know of any sites where you can view pages from auto repair manuals?

Response From rdonderosr

thank you i will try it

2001 Saturn Oil pressure light flashes

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From timsdailydose on 2001 Saturn Oil pressure light flashes

2001 Saturn SL2 1.9 liter with 155,000 miles. Engine was rebuilt upper and lower after daughters boyfriend ran engine with no oil which froze the engine. Had the block, head and crankshaft repaired at a reputable engine machine shop. Also put a new water pump, oil pressure switch, and oil pump. Everything is new. I still have a low oil pressure light flashing after engine warms up. Oil level is fine. Replaced oil filter twice. No difference. Any help would be appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like there may have been some errors made in rebuilding, possibly in main bearing fitment.

Response From timsdailydose

The bearings were installed and verified with plastigauge for proper clearance specifications. I hooked up an oil gauge and am reading 37 psi when first started then slowly creeps down. I turned the engine off once it got below 20. BTW I had also verified the pickup screen is clear, no blockages.

Response From Hammer Time

If you're seeing 20PSI at idle, that is not too low. It can go as low as 8 to 10 PSI and be safe.

Response From timsdailydose

If i let it continue to run it will drop to 7psi, however , when i accelerate and then decelerate at this level the engine wants to stall out.

Response From Hammer Time

You might try some different oil but it's looking like there was some errors made in measurements.

Response From timsdailydose Top Rated Answer

Guess I will be pulling the engine again. I tried two different oils and oil filters. Used 10w30 full synthetic and fram oil filter the first time and 5w30 full synthetic with Purolator "Pure One" the 2nd time with no difference.

Ion ticking noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From 03ion on Ion ticking noise

I have a 2003 Saturn Ion I really love this car and i haven't had any problems with it what so ever until now. When i first start my car in the morning or when ever the car gets started for the first time after sitting for a little while there is a "ticking" noise. Although this noise goes away after the car has been running it worries me a little does anyone have any idea what this could be?

(hyperlink removed)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Hard to be sure from here, but it's probably valve train noise (lifters/rocker arms). Not sure if this is overhead cam, or not. But, when the engine is shut down, the oil will drain back into the crankcase. When the engine is warm or even warm ambient temps, it doesn't take any time, to speak of, for the oil pump to get the oil back up to the top of the engine. In cold temperatures, the oil is thicker and takes a little longer. Make sure that you are using the proper viscosity for your vehicle and climate. Most newer engines require 5/20 or 5/30 oils. This is one of the reasons that I like synthetic oils. Personally, I prefer Amsoil. It's a bit spendy, but excellent engine protection.

Car makes noise when accelerating

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From foosball8806 on Car makes noise when accelerating

Help. I have a 1999 saturn sc2 it burns oil kind of fast and i accidently let it get really low before i had an oil change the other day. right before i got an oil change it started making a funny clicking noise, but thats just what happens when you get low on oil. so i got the oil change and the noise went away but the next day a noise that sounds very similar started and its only when i accelerate passed maybe 2000 rpms. if i pop the clutch it goes away and if i break it goes away, just when hard accelerating. a friend suggested it might be the timing belt, which i think is jsut the S belt. no noise when turning, just accelerating, i also opened the hood while it was running and had a friend give it some gas and it sounds like its coming from either the belt or right underneath the engine. any ideas? is it easy to change the belt myself?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That funny noise when you run low on oil like that is normal for BLOWING YOUR ENGINE!! Brace yourself for thousands of bucks to remedy that.

Taking care of your car is YOUR responsibility. What were you thinking about?

T

Response From foosball8806 Top Rated Answer

when i got my oil changed the guy said the oil pump and everything looked fine. im going to take it back to him tomorrow and see what he says, but it doesnt feel like the engine is blown. its not rumbling or huming any more then normal, it might just be something in the oil line?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If for whatever reason the oil didn't get to lubricate internal engine parts they can wear out from new in just a minute - it's not a joke! Letting an oil change go too long is not so harmful so fast. Think of like a nice sharpened pair of ice skates that when only used on nice clean ice can stay sharp indefinately but just one run (like a foot) across cement or something they are trashed. The skates can be resharpened fairly easily. Your engine can be reworked (rebuilt) but it will never be close to as good as the original.

You said it used some oil and that alone suggests neglect. Some much older cars routinely used some oil but that isn't the case anymore.

You might squeeze out some more life by getting the oil pressure back up to par and don't let it get low. When it says to add a quart that's the maximum amount low it should ever have to tolerate. Don't wait for a light to tell you it needs oil as most are inaccurate and many are just TOO LATE lights.

The cost to repair that damage is staggering. The best of the best isn't as good as the original. Oil has nothing to do with the belts and other parts that are not lubricated by it. Some parts can get worn and effectively be replaced but the general neglect will show up and haunt the engine forever.

All the harping about oil changing and qualities of oil is not a joke. It really works to take care of them. Oil is the most important thing for your engine. Get it diagnosed as to how far it has been damaged fix that if practical and if you take care of it you might get more life out of it. I have acquired many cars that were neglected and if not too bad, with taking care of them from then on they got no worse and some improved. Those were all tolerant old American style cast iron engines that could tolerate more abuse back when. Virtually all newer engines don't tolerate poor lubrication from any cause as well but do just fine with care,

T

Response From foosball8806

so i took it back to the place i got the oil changed and he said the same thing, that it sounds like one of the pistons is knocking on the inside. he said that i should use thicker oil from now on and then i will probably have to get it fixed in less then six months. im going to take it to a shop to see what they say.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thicker oil or the stuff like STP can thicken what you already have but don't overfill the oil by much. That is a cover up of a real problem and the fix is basically an engine overhaul which I already said that is never as good as original. It's really not worth the money unless you want to replace the engine with a good original. Either way it may continue on for quite a while if you just take it easy with it. By the time it starts getting worse you will have to make the hard decision to fix this or consider another car,

T

General question about an overfilled engine crankcase-1997 Saturn

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From huxley on General question about an overfilled engine crankcase-1997 Saturn

Hey guys,

Would like to know your thoughts on this...

Say you have a 1997 Saturn 4 Cylinder (I forget the model, car belongs to my grandmother) with about 80,000 miles on it. The car takes 4 quarts of oil with a new filter. The service shop had been putting at least 5+ quarts in, if not more, for quite some time. She had never had me take a look at the car until about a month ago when her check engine light came on. I pulled the wires off the spark plugs and cylinder 1 was full of oil...looked like pressure had built up and blown past whatever is there (valve seal?) and wasn't firing on that cylinder. I checked the dipstick after the car was cooled down and saw that it was a good two inches past the full mark-no bs. I siphoned out the oil from cylinder 1 the best I could and told her exactly what to tell the shop. She told them and they charged her $400. This was to replace the plugs, fix whatever seal broke, change her belts (because they were soaked with oil), etc. A typical tune up I guess. My problem is this...the engine compartment is a mess, they've been overfilling the crankcase for who knows how long-and as far as I know that builds up an inordinate amount of pressure and is probably the reason her seals and gaskets are all failing on the engine. Not only could this have taken years off the engine, it also has been throwing oil onto any part that will accept it and could create a dangerous situation. I'm really ticked off about this and wanted some suggestions from you folks if you have the time. I think they should have replaced those items free of charge-they replaced the belts because they were coated in oil. I feel like the place is taking advantage of an elderly womans lack of knowledge on this subject.

Thanks for your time as always!

-Nate

Response From Tom Greenleaf

On average: Engines will hold about 1 qt too much without a disaster - still to be avoided. It's not so much that they build up too much pressure but that the sump level in the oil pan is too high and parts (crankshaft) can splash in it - can be a total disaster right away if too much! Problem is proving that is was in fact overfilled - or what other reason could the oil be too full. Fuel can leak down and dilute and overfill the oil level too - same disasters can happen but you can tell by the oil.

Note: The measurement on a dipstick from the add line to the full line is generally 1 qt. That same measure isn't accurate to measure the increments by quarts over that mark. Some will real way over full with just 1/2 qt too much. Has to do with the shape of the oil pan. Motors must also be designed to tolerate being at an angle which simply puts oil too full at one end of pan or side and lower at the other. That within some norms is designed in. If too low or full and parked or run at an extreme troubles happen.

Side note: Happens to lawn mowers when serious slopes are mowed and some engines croak over that. Is the engine ok now? Hope so.

Can you show a reciept for paying for the wrong amount of oil? Then I'd bring it up with the service shop with the listed capacity in the owner's manual and make a complaint. Other proof is going to be tricky.

Are you going to bat for your grandmother with this situation? Get some proof if you can. If engine is ok and it might be you probably could just negotiate the labor out of that last bill. If engine is NOT ok there's trouble I can smell from here!

Shops of any kind that offer oil change service had better pay strict attention to capacities like this. There was a day when almost everything out there took 4 quarts and 5 with the filter - no such thing anymore for a LONG time.

Here to help if we can,

T

Response From Guest

Hey Tom,

As usual, thank you for the fast and thoughtful reply! I really appreciate the explanation.

My grandmother has a receipt from the most recent work done showing that she was charged for 5 quarts of oil. I'm going to have her check her other receipts (she, like most grandmothers I have met, keeps meticulous records regarding most everything) and I'll betcha anything they all read 5 quarts or more. These are the same guys that sold the used car to her and I never liked the people there and was always suspicious about the guy-and I'm really not the type to hold prejudice against any mechanic for the simple fact that they're a mechanic. There are questionable cracks in the body of the car and I see lots of overspray in strange places-looks like it was painted at some point and they didn't do the best tape job.

How would I know if the engine is ok? Quite frankly, to me anyway, the car SOUNDS terrible but I'm really touchy when it comes to engine noise and I'm not always right-might just be the model or something. Are there any tests I can do in her driveway to find out more about it?

I'd like to go in to the shop and, at the very least, get a full refund for the last batch of work that was done. You should have seen under the hood-oil EVERYWHERE. Seriously, it looked like someone just took used motor oil and did an avant garde painting.

So-how would you approach this? And if I find out that they've been putting 5 quarts in for a long time, what sort of effect might that have over an extended period?

Thanks again Tom,
Nate

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There were a couple Saturns in my care back when. Both nice folks who wicked abused cars - not my thing. Noted on one at least the engine was just plain noisy and was never asked to pin anything down. Neither ever quit and weren't in for every detail so I have minimal overall hands on with these cars.

Just looked and couldn't just find the oil capacity of Saturn engines so easy. What does the owner's manual say? Lot's of cars come thru with like 4.6 qts., US for example and plenty of other assorted #s.

Oil is sold everywhere in qts and in some places "litres" which is a tad more as we know and they'll tolerate the 1.8 extra oz when just adding ONE no problem. Cars simply have to allow for angles and the slosh of oil for turns, stopping, starting, hills etc.

Oil all over the engine now: For the most part it won't hurt anything! I suggest cleaning it up by hand dry, with towels - as I'm not in favor of powerwashing engines with water and leave that as my opinion. Select spots may need degreasing - depends on what is found where and how bad. Air filters won't like beinng oiled so they and housings must be free of oil. Some rubber parts won't do well soaked in oil - particularly cooling system rubber parts, hoses the weak link.

Can you check out this engine and what tools available? If no major tools handy just listen to it - noise noted but is it even and stays runnning well in N and in gear? Engine off - look inside oil filler cap - look clean or sludgy in there? Engine idling - pull dipstick part way up - electric cooling fan off is best, and hold a smokey stick (cigarette works) near the tube and the smoke should draw down the tube. Most engines that will do that are sound as far as compression! Check tailpipe for oiliness and of course visual smoke not good.

An overfilled engine (oil overfilled) would be apt to have oil in excess where it could cause hydraulic problems such as LOCK and could bend rods or who knows.

The gasket leak might have been needed and could have been a PVC problem causing pressure in crankcase and oil gets pushed out of gaskets. If that only engine could be fine. If because of excessive blow-by, bent valves with worn guides, the engine is in trouble!

What else can you note without much for equipment or do you want to send this elsewhere for an overall assesment with compression test. Has other maintenance been done along the way - tune-up items, timing belt job(s), coolant service etc., and just the same check you would do it you were buying the car now.

What would you like to do next?

T

Response From brbettge

Tom, didn't read through the entire thread but I have one bit of info that might be of help. I have had many vehicles come in over the years with this same perceived problem. I have learned the first check to make and the first question to ask is "is this the correct dipstick?" I've found many vehicles with the wrong stick which causes false readings. just a thought..rick

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Nate, Dan and Rick:

Nate, Don't forget to log in or you show up as a guest - we know it's you! We are all on the same page and this is already a read - my fault.

In Summary: A used car has been overfilled by a quart (is that only 1 qt?) over a couple or more oil changes. Leaks happened and gaskets were replaced. The question is whether the overfill caused this. This is a 97 80,000 mile used Saturn something BOUGHT USED.

Dan made the point that ONE quart is likely not an issue or cause - agreed 100%. The exception would be if the car was used or parked and run at what I would consider ridiculous angles. I badgered the point - sorry.

Note: I think we all agree that knowingly and constantly adding too much oil is not a good practice - pros should know better but let's not blame them just so fast for the problems that have happened, car was used!

Dan guessed this was the OHC engine and those did have common issues with PCV and filling up spark plug holes when gaskets gave out. The oil everywhere was probaby a PCV line blowout and quickly makes quite a mess.

Note II: In checking oils and fluids car must be level. For engine oil a wait time is always suggested or it can misread as a bit low when not.

We now know the exact refill amount of 4 qts - good.

Rick made the dipstick point: A whole line of 80 Ford (for example) 302cid or 5.0 engines got those all screwed up when built new - I own 3 now and dealt with some unbelievable # of these engines. Dipsticks were so far off with known 5 qt total fill with new filter that it was scary. All I ever changed oil on I would fill with just 4qts on purpose - wait and mark the dipstick as the spot to add a qt. Then add the quart and mark the "full" mark. I would grind off all info that was on the sticks and make a common line or divot that was clear and used in many vehicles that don't print english on dipsticks. Some of these when the originals read "add one qt" would read way over full! Not one ever had a problem but they weren't really overfull either.

The bit you copied and pasted from some other place is a bit hysterical and has plain mistakes. Oil doesn't care how much is in the sump - you could design an engine to hold 100 qts but it must be at the right level in relation to moving parts above the oil level. A rear main does not just blow out as that article suggested or I misread something. That seal must simply hold oil from spilling out and does need to hold the slight vacuum the engines require in the entire crankcase area which includes the valve covers and more. When accellerating hard the oil would rush to the back of a traditional layout engine and would cause damage if that wasn't thought of new. In this car a hard turn would slosh it side to side also and must tolerate that and does.

I kind of doubt the repairs done were out of line. The important thing now is clear the air with this shop about NOT using too much oil AND inform your grandmother to check or have checked the oil at regular intervals in between changes - we all should do that even when we think a car doesn't consume any.

Nate: You are a good guy to watch out for your grandmother! I think you can work with the same shop with a good understanding and if you really think something's wrong there find another and bring your grandmother with you and make a schedule or routine services and and everyone will feel better about this. I really don't think many shops or tech's really are out to get you or rip you off - YOU aleards know how difficult from some other threads how things can get.

Be well,

Tom

Response From huxley

Hey Tom,

Alright sounds good. Sorry for not logging back in, I lost power here between those posts and forgot it logged me out after that.

A few things I did want to mention-she's had the car since at least 2002 or before. This could have been going on since that time. In fact, I would bet it has been. I'll have her check. I don't have time to say much else right now, sorry! I appreciate the time you put into these posts Tom, seriously, it really helps me out!

Take care and I'll be in touch soon,
Nate

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Hey Tom and Dan,

The owners manual for the car reads exactly 4 quarts with filter. I think Dan is right with it being a SL2, I am not familiar with Saturn models at all.

As far as the condition-I still don't know. I do remember seeing a decent amount of build up or the black death/sludge from where I could see down the oil filler area. I've seen worse, but only one other time. I'll try out the cheap vacuum test you mention and see what happens. I mean, the thing still runs, but it doesn't run well in my opinion. I'm a motorcycle guy at heart and that knowledge has not carried over well to cars thus far-but my thoughts are, at the very least, the shop should refund her the cost of one quart of oil for however many times they changed it with too much.

Oh, and here is where a lot of my concerns come from-I read this on a website called "carbibles"

What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil?

So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.
Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good.
Well, you did ask.

Anyway, thanks again Tom and Dan for the help and I'll see where grandma would like to go from here, if anywhere.

Response From DanD

Before I begin I’m not siding with anyone here (the repair shop or yourself) but in my opinion 1 quart of extra oil, would not cause any adverse affects on this engine. No it’s no right that the repair shop was over filling the crankcase but the over fill would have to be much more then just one quart; something like enough oil for the bottoms of the pistons having to push through the oil, defiantly would cause an issue.
With your description of
I pulled the wires off the spark plugs and cylinder 1 was full of oil
This is likely a SL2 double overhead cam engine?
If by chance this engine is the double overhead cam engine, they are well known for valve cover gaskets and spark plug well seals failing.
When the spark plug well seal fails the spark plug well fills with oil, eventually causing the spark plug to become submerged in oil. When this happens the ignition wire looses its insulation qualities because it’s soaked in oil and the spark will short to the cylinder head; allowing that cylinder to misfire.
As for what kind of mess a leaking valve cover gasket makes; especially on an overhead cam engine; well just ask anyone who has ever made the mistake of starting one of these engines with the valve cover off. I had to get the step latter out and clean the oil off the 20 foot high ceilings in the shop. LOL
What I have found with these engines is that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve or the vacuum supply to the PCV fails. With out this positive ventilation, yes the crankcase will built excessive pressure blowing out seals. 1 extra quart of oil with a properly functioning PCV system will not build any measurable pressure; not any that would blow out a seal anyway.
What is the general condition of the engine; if there is excessive piston ring blow-by cause by excessive engine wear; even a good PCV system will not be able to handle the crankcase pressures?
These are the same guys that sold the used car to her
Your Grandmother bought a used car; who knows what kind of beating the last cowboy put on this car? Even if it were not beaten on but for some unknown reason this engine was ever overheated; this could have caused internal damage and is why the previous owner sold the car?

Now if by chance the PCV system is the cause of this oily mess; that’s where I would be asking the repair shop for an explanation. As to why that was missed, if they have been doing a proper servicing on the car.
I think there’s a lot of room here for some give & take; go in and talk to them. See if they have any history on the vehicle before your Grandmother bought the thing.
Get a second opinion from a garage that you do trust; tell them that you want to know what’s wrong with the car not what was wrong with the other shop’s services. You don’t want to get involved with a slam fest.

Looks like we're thinking along the same lines Tom.
Dan.