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DJ Rock
2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Engine Oil Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L DJ Rock

P311-1A61490    OP155  New

DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Valves Aspiration Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mitsubishi Lancer 16 Turbocharged DOHC L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
DJ Rock
2002 Mitsubishi Mirage Engine Oil Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L DJ Rock

P311-2562C28    OP157  New

DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Valves Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Mitsubishi Mirage 4G93 16 SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.8L 112 1834
DJ Rock
1995 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L DJ Rock

P311-5D1C3B7    OP130  New

DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Valves Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Mitsubishi Montero - 24 H SOHC V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Oil Pump Mopar

P311-35F5C3C    W0133-1880634  New

Mopar Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Shall I replace or overhaul the engine of Mitsubishi Grandis

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From sheraz on Shall I replace or overhaul the engine of Mitsubishi Grandis

I've Mitsubishi Grandis, model year: 2006, engine: 2.4L, engine model: 4G69, Kilometers:500,000 in United Arab Emirates. The car engine is consuming oil for the last 8-9months. Approximately 3litres in a month. It runs around 7000km in a month. Oil light also starting going on and off recently 3-4months back. The mechanic told engine oil pump is not working properly. He has recommended to repair/overhaul the engine. But as you know Mitsubishi parts are very expensive. Kindly advice whether I should replace engine with the used engines imported from Japan or repair/overhaul it. Is Mitsubishi Galant engine same as Grandis becoz Galant engine has the same model 4G69.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? You are going to know better than I could what whole engine is available to be an exact match for this car. They can and do vary depending on place they will be sold new.

You have enough KMs and oil consumption that you have probably been caught too low for comfort.

My opinion is that factory new will be more likely to last longer than even a very well done overhaul,


Response From sheraz

Thanks for your advice. But it's not feasible to buy a new engine as it's extremely expensive & nobody here replaces their old engine with the new engine. This car is worth $6000 only and the used engine from Japan can be replaced for approximalety $1200 inclusive of labor charges. What do you suggest?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Used sure seems good at a glance. You are at the mercy of who checked it out and declared it good with test results and a history. It's helpful here as they come with more of the assorted stuff that you would have either as spare parts or not have to swap over.


I simply can't know from here what is available to you or how dependable the source is nor the mechanic who you need to know can handle this,


vibration after timing belt changed

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From rs2001 on vibration after timing belt changed

hi there i need help i have a 2001 mitsubishi eclipse rs 2.4l had my timing belt and balaner belt changed know the gas pedal vibrates slighty at 3000rpm then at 4500 it vibrates like crazy it feels like its reving out to early could it be possiable the timing could be of slighty

Response From autorepair123

Just go to your mechanic and lrt them check your belt. Sometimes it is hard to get the tyming of your belt even it is new.

Response From Sidom

HT hit this one on the head. The balance shaft is 180 out. They should know this but there is a plug half way down the block, line everything up remove the plug and insert a drill bit in the hole, if it can't be inserted at least 3", the shaft is 180 out.

I'm guessing your old belt broke, this usually doesn't happen on maintance replacements........

Response From rs2001

thanks for the replies ill take it in tomorrow.By the way the old belt didnt break i guess they just missed it

Response From rs2001 Top Rated Answer

is it possiable that oil pump sprocket to be 180 out the oil pump sprocket and silent shaft have different plugs to check if its out of time and is the plug a bolt or a rubber plug i cant seem to find it

Response From Sidom

The counter balance shaft is run off the oil pump sprocket. This view may help.

When I get one with a broken belt I just spin the gear hard, it always winds up with the weight on the bottom. You can even rotate it around to line the mark up again and you can feel the weight on the top wanting to roll over, which would be off. Using the drill bit method is 100% but if you've done a few spinning the gear works fine an is faster.....

If you want to use the plug method, just follow the balance shaft down the side of the block, it's about half way down, it always seems to be a PITA to get to.....thus the spin method is perferred....


Response From Hammer Time

That's what that second belt is there for and it doesn't use timing marks. They may no know how to time it. It can be 180 degrees out and do that.

Response From steve01832

I'd definately bring it back to the shop as soon as possible. They should double check the timing marks.


Mitsubishi Magna VR-X 2003 Cracked Oil Pan

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From chocbeaver on Mitsubishi Magna VR-X 2003 Cracked Oil Pan

Engine: V6
Mileage: 100 000km

I was on a dirt road and hit a rock, cracked the oil pan. Oil light came on, drove for about 10sec then stopped. Engine had white smoke and was making a funny noise. Filled up coolant, left it for 10min, poured water over radiator. Was out of town, so drove about 2-300m t the nearest shop at a crawl. Is the engine damaged?

Response From Hammer Time

Let me get your logic here.

You damage the oil pan to the point where you have smoke and noises from the engine.

Now you pour water over the radiator and that somehow will resolve your oil problem.

Then you proceed to drive it this way...........

You've got to be kidding

Response From Discretesignals

Let me get your logic here.

What logic? I think logic went out the window a long time ago after the oil pan was cracked. Did you check to see if oil was in the engine? Did you crack the engine oil pan or the transmission oil pan?

I don't understand this part though:

2-300m t the nearest shop at a crawl.

Is that 2-300 meters or miles?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If that was METERS than with an oil light blinding you, you should have walked to that shop for help. Never mind possible damage that you needed coolant filled also when especially oil warnings and temperature warnings come on you shouldn't expect much more if you drive it.

Please clarify how far, how long it ran with possibly no oil as yes that could be enough to ruin it,


Response From chocbeaver

The coolant was pretty much full when we filled it up. And I'm pretty sure it was just the oil sump.

Response From Hammer Time

Just the oil sump?

I thought I had indigestion but it turned out to be only a massive coronary.

Response From chocbeaver

I've been told the oil sump is simple to fix?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Probably would have been if you didn't drive it without one. The oil pump is the heart of the engine and when your heart stops pumping, you're pretty much screwed. The difference with a car is that you have to ability to shut it off until the problem is resolved.

Response From chocbeaver

So the 200 metre drive would have made serious damage?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You had smoke AND noise (probably knocking from lack of oil pressure) before you first shut it down. That was enough but then drove it more probably hearing it even worse
You mention "sump" ?? If oil pan was damaged enough to harm/destroy the oil pick up is going to make this more trouble to even find out. If it cranks or turns just one second now AND pick up for oil is still expected fine I'd temporarily patch the crack, use any cheap oil and start it for more info on how much damage has occurred. You may not know the extent till fixed and some miles. If oil pressure can't hold well or it smokes, still knocks it's probably game over for that engine or will just be a constant headache fouling plugs, burning oil, wrecking converter.

You don't need to take our word for what to do when you are warned of oil pressure loss just look in your owner's manual that won't say it's over but dang well should say shut down NOW and don't run it more.

It may run again but almost certainly has caused serious damage at best. If it doesn't turn you can pretty much forget it entirely,


Response From chocbeaver

Thanks for the help. The noise didn't worsen when we drove it again. I just have my fingers crossed the engine hasn't taken too much damage.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Luck happens. Just don't waste too much $$ finding out. You'll know when it will hold oil and some miles where it's at. Actually if this was some old beat up all iron engine already worn, consuming some oil regularly you'd have a better chance. It's low miles was against you IMO.

Watch it like a hawk for fluid levels and leaks and some time will tell,


Response From chocbeaver

Ok then, I know I'm pretty lucky (hopefully). The secretary didn't say much about the engine. What is an engine pipe though? After googling it, is it the exhaust one or the pickup pipe for the oil?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Engine Pipe?"

That's pretty vague. Because this hit a rock type thing I can only guess that it's exhaust something. The pick up for oil in pan should be fine (not there so can only guess) if pan wasn't smashed bad enough. Exhaust could either make exhaust noise or if smashed/pinched be a restriction.

Hard to say without looking as this is damage from impact not just routine so looking at it would be imperative to get the best clue as to extent of damage.

Guessing it's still at the shop and I would go down and let mechanic/tech show you what has been found and explain what the problem or best guess fix is,


Response From chocbeaver

Yeah. She said they got the part from the wreckers/dump, so I'm thinking oil pipe from what I've read or can you get the exhaust one from the same place as well?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

IDK - oil pipe? Except for an oil filter the rest is inside for oil. Exhaust could have a pipe to blow fresh air in that was easier to find used than wait or chase down new - just dunno?

Closest you could get is to take a video or pics pointing to what was damaged. Interpretations from a "secretary" may not be the best description so if in doubt or need to know ask to talk to the tech,


Response From chocbeaver

My grandfather found out, it's apparently it's got something to do with the exhaust and manifold?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If damage involved exhaust parts let the techs free and fix it or bail out on the whole car,


Response From chocbeaver

Ok, rang up the mechanic then. Something is also wrong with the engine pipe that they need to fix. How bad is that? I got the secretary and she didn't have a clue.

97 mitsubishi galant oil light on

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Bobgun on 97 mitsubishi galant oil light on

I have a 1997 Mitsubishi Galant that starts fine with no oil light on, but it seems once the engine heats up the oil light appears. Revving the engine makes the light go out, but as the engine heats up you must rev it higher and higher to make the light go out. I have checked and the oil is topped up - it doesn't need oil. Do I need a new oil pump? Shouldn't a worn out pump have more trouble with cold oil rather than warm?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

On a problem like this you would 1st have to determine if it is in fact a mechanical oil pressure problem or an electrical problem...

If the oil was recently changed I would be tempted to change out the oil with a name brand & correct weight. If the light is still coming on what you would have to do next would be to hook a mechanical gauge into the motor a verify the pressure is actually low and that you don't just have a bad sending unit or problem with the circuit.....

It you don't have a gauge to hook up, even though it would be considered guessing the cheapest option would probably be to just buy another oil pressure sending unit & hook it up..........

2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS Horrid Noise on Cold Start

Showing 5 out of 13 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From kristen on 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS Horrid Noise on Cold Start


I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS 3.0 liter, manual transmission. Car makes awful noise only on cold start up's, noise will fade out after car starts to warm up. Makes the noise more so in the winter, and less in the summer. I was hoping the Timing belt, Tensioner, Pulley, belts, plug, wire, distributor cap/rotor job would clear up the issue, but for some reason it didn't. As long as the car is heated up the noise won't happen, like I said only does it on cold starts. I have always changed the oil myself, and I use castrol synthetic with a K&N oil filter. I guess when the garage did all that work they changed my oil so I'm guessing they probably used some cheap oil, and filter. All my research I have done has indicated faulty tensioner (but this was just replaced), lifters, or my starter. I have posted the noise all over the mitsubishi eclipse forums, and this is what everyone tells me.. The garage I brought it 5 months ago tried figuring it out and couldn't the only thing they could think of was it was my lifters, and it just takes longer for my oil to get to the top end of the engine hence the reason why the noise stops once it warms up. I said well then should I replace the oil pump and they said no. The garage also took my main exterior belt off, and started the car to try and determine if it was an external part making the noise or the engine. When the belt was off there wasn't a noise. They put the belt back on, and started it the following day because the car had to be cooled back down, and the noise was present. I have posted a video of it to Youtube if you would like to take a listen to it. Just go to youtube and in the search bar type: 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS noise. My post should be the first one on the page. It is 2:58 minutes long., and it is by kristenl2784 (me). It started around 80K, and is now at 114K. All work that was just done to it, was done less than a month ago. So two garages as of right now have really no explanation for it, or they really don't want to waste there time looking more into it. Below is the link to my video as well if it doesn't work just type in what I mentioned earlier in the search bar of youtube.

Thanks for any Help!

Response From GC

Something isnt making sense to me. If there was no noise with the belt off, then should be something that the belt is driving or possibly the crank pulley/balancer. And the belt couldnt be put back on until it was cool?

That said... That doesnt sound much like a pulley or accessory to me. Or lifters... From the crappy sound quality on youtube, it sounds like an exhaust leak? But i wouldnt trust a sound diagnosis over the interwebs.

This shouldnt be hard to figure out. Try another shop?

Response From kristen

Hello they did put the belt back on but waited for the car to be cool again before starting it back up. The noise is only there on a cold start. I understand what you're saying they should have been able to start it right away after putting the belt back on.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are calling this a "horrid" noise and just said it's done it as far back as last Summer and nobody can tell you what it is? New techs needed. Damage may already be done just cold makes it worse??


Response From kristen

I also forgot to add that my main external belt was replaced, and so wasn't my idler pulley.

Response From Discretesignals

Is the ac compressor clutch engaged when it is making that noise?

Response From kristen

The AC or Heat can be on or off, and doesn't make a difference. Also the steering wheel can be straight or turning and that doesn't make a difference either.

Response From Discretesignals

Someone is going to have to get in there with a mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint the area or source of the noise.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Seems to be proven that it's a belt driven item making this noise OR some belts are noisy all by themselves. Depending on where in NH it's been nasty cold (close to MA temps except White Mountains really suk sometimes)

Just because some items on belt have been done neither rules them out but should and if that much noise this isn't rocket science to isolate which item on the belt system is the culprit. Surprised whatever hasn't broken totally removing any of this guessing,


Response From kristen Top Rated Answer

I live in NH weather is crazy it changes all the time could be in the negative single digits, to positive single digits and sometimes up to 30 or 40 during the winter months.

Response From kristen

Right its been to a couple garages and they can't seem to figure it out. I'm guessing it's more external because when they took the belt off the noise wasn't there on cold start. The next day on cold start they started it with the belt on and the noise was there. Since it started making the noise winter tends to be when it comes about more often, and lasts about 5 - 8 minutes then fades out and you can no longer hear it and it sounds fine and runs fine. The car wont make the noise the rest of the day unless it becomes fully cooled down. During the summer it doesn't happen all the time and doesn't last very long if it does 30 seconds to tops a minute or two.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How cold is this cold start? What viscosity of synthetic Castrol never mind brand the viscosity counts big time. Was it making the noise when belt was taken off then not making the noise in front of you? If so and techs didn't notice that you need new techs.

GC mentioned possible exhaust which many would get quiet when warm and should be ruled in or out.

Right now I doubt the oil viscosity is correct but total guess and don't know how cold you are talking about yet either,


Response From kristen

5w 30 is the oil I use