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  • Cardone
    Cardone
  • Seal Power
    Seal Power

Best Selling Genuine International Oil Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Seal Power, Cardone
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of International Replacement Oil Pump Parts
Seal Power
Qty:
$45.49
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1968 - International 1000C L 3933 240
Cardone
2002 International 2554 Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 8.7L Cardone

P311-40214FD    Remanufactured

Qty:
$162.00 $358.39
Cardone Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump - Domestic Reman
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Engine Oil Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gaskets Included: Yes
    • Material: Steel
    • Package Contents: Engine Oil Pump, Gasket, O-ring, Spacer
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Engine Oil Pumps cover various platform for vehicle specific applications. The High Pressure Oil Pump is a keystone in the fuel delivery system. Low oil pressure to the fuel injectors promotes poor fuel atomization, loss of power, harmful emissions, delayed throttle response, and less fuel economy. A1 CARDONE Engine Oil Pumps are tested for proper pressure and operating parameters to ensure it meets and exceeds OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - International 2554 L 8687 530
Seal Power
Qty:
$171.19
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure Oil Pump Screen Not Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Fuel Type
1984 - International Cargostar Turbocharged V - 420 DIESEL
Seal Power
Qty:
$106.65
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Improved Design with Better Flow. Oil Pump is Not for Injector Driver. Direct Injection (DI) Engines
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Fuel Type
1997 - International 3000 Turbocharged V - 444 DIESEL
Seal Power
Qty:
$171.19
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure Oil Pump Screen Not Included Non-Direct Injection (IDI) Engines
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Fuel Type
1988 - International 1452SC Naturally Aspirated V 7277 444 DIESEL

Latest International Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

95 Transport engine knock - Oil pump or worse?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Tomtina3 on 95 Transport engine knock - Oil pump or worse?

1995 Pontiac Transport 3.8L, 195k mi., Oil pressure gauge reads normal when cold, goes down to almost zero as it warms up. Engine runs smooth when cold, but knocks like hell when it heats up, especially under torque. Leaks oil dripping fairly fast when cold (but not once it warms up) around the crankshaft. so.... mechanic thinks the engine is shot, thinks oil is leaking internally, engine bearings etc, and thats why the oil pressure is low. Could it be the oil pump? rebuild is about $250, pump is internal (in engine, not in the oil pan). How can you test whether its the oil pump, or if the engine is shot? i hate to put another $2-300 if its not the problem, and mechanic is skeptical. Any advice?

Also, would a thicker oil buy me some time? What viscosity?? Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

With the description given it sounds like this engine is shot. A new high output oil pump might help but if you have noticed this and driven this with the noise the damage to bearings is done. The leak could be the rear main not beieng able to keep up with the crank out of spec now and could behave when it warms up or that internal bearing leak so much there isn't enough to leak there.

Hard to condem it without really being there but I think you could limp this along a while with like the super thick STP type things/additive which thickens the oil. If cold where you are it can be too much to start up first time of the day though,

T

'71 C10, oil pressure and carberator problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From asteiner on '71 C10, oil pressure and carberator problems

350 small block

i dont know what to do here. My idle is slightly off-set but thats no really biggie. i adjusted the carberator and my idle was fine for about a day. im thinking my timing needs to be adjusted but i dont see how that would account for the oil pressure dropping to almost 0 every time i stop at a stop light or stop sign. im not sure if the carberator is causing this or if it's something internal.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Oil pressure will drop with low idle. What is it at when it's at near zero? Raise the idle to help with an old engine if need be.

What is the overall state of this engine and history? Miles on it, recent work etc. Has a timing chain ever been done?

Oil pressure should be checked with a separate gauge. Worn main bearings will drop it too low. Also possible the oil pump itself just can't do what it used to.

What are your intentions with this vehicle? Is this just a handy driver or a resto vehicle? That will matter on how you approach this,

T

02 ford escape xls

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From dukefan465 on 02 ford escape xls

02 ford escape xls.. bought from buy here pay here with 143500 miles. 50/50 90 day warranty for internal engine and transmission only. Well I had about 45 days and oil pump went and ruined the engine, got that replaced with a engine with 68000 miles same year same model (warranty shop says.) So not even 100 miles after I get that engine my check engine light comes on he tells me to go check the code at autozone, it ended up being P0430 the catalytic converter. Warranty guy says yea that's it you need a new one without even looking at my car tells me it'll be 500(not covered in warranty.) My question is
#1 Would he not be able to tell this when running test on the engine he just put in?
#2 Can they tell which catalytic converter it is with not checking? (I know there are 3)
#3 Do you think they are trying to rip me off?

Response From Hammer Time

No, that code is for low efficiency of the bank 2 converter. It's rarely anything but a bad converter. There may be 3 converters but there are only 2 that are monitored. It depends on the layout but you may be buying a "Y" pipe with both of them anyway.

Response From dukefan465

So he wouldn't be able to tell this when he was running tests on the engine he just put in ? Also when I was driving to stop it off at the shop the engine cut off when I was trying to make a turn. Everything went dead and had to place in park cut it off and restart it. The converter would make it do that?

Response From Hammer Time

The computer monitors the efficiency of the cats ad apparently it hadn't set the code yet when the engine was changed or no one read it before disconnecting the battery which would have erased it.

I can't tell you much about the price because I don't know what you are buying.

Response From dukefan465 Top Rated Answer

Also is that a good price for the converter and install?

Full Powertrain Warranty

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From nreves on Full Powertrain Warranty

this is from a local used car dealer, can anyone help me out and let me know if these covered items make this warranty worth it? Thank you.


3 Month/3,000 Mile FULL Powertrain Warranty: FREE

6 Month/6,000 Mile FULL Powertrain Warranty: $299

12 Month/12,000 Mile FULL Powertrain Warranty: $799

24 Month/24,000 Mile FULL Powertrain Warranty: $1,195

36 Month/36,000 Mile FULL Powertrain Warranty: $1,495
*Some Surcharges May Apply

Below is a List of Covered Items:

ENGINE Internally lubricated engine parts consisting of: Crankshaft and bearings, oil pump, oil pump pickup/screen and tube, pistons, piston rings, wrist pins, connecting rods and rod bearings, timing gears and chain or belt, timing tensioners/guides, balance shafts, camshaft and camshaft bearings, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shaft and hydraulic lifters, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, cylinder head gaskets.
Engine blocks are also covered if mechanical failure was caused by the above-listed parts.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Internal transmission parts consisting of: Gears, input and output shafts, bearings, front pump, planetary assemblies, transmission case, overdrive carrier, reaction carrier, center support, parking lock actuator, stator and stator shaft, separator plate, pressure regulator valve, dipstick and filler tube, sprags, governor assembly, valve body and torque converter.

STANDARD TRANSMISSION Internal transmission parts consisting of: Gears, input and output shafts, bearings, overdrive housing and transmission case if malfunction was caused by the listed parts. Clutch plate, pressure plate, flywheel, release and pilot bearings are NOT included.

DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY (FRONT OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE) Consisting of: Drive shaft, ring and pinion gears, pinion bearings, side carrier bearings, carrier assembly, thrust washers, axle, axle bearings, and limited slip clutch pack assembly. Universal and CV joints, except if boot was damaged or missing. Drive axle housing is also covered if damage is caused by failure of listed lubricated parts.

DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY (4-WHEEL AND ALL-WHEEL DRIVE) Transfer case including gears, main shaft, drive chain, thrust washer and shims, bearings. Front drive shaft, differential, axles, u-joints and CV joints, except if boot was damaged or missing. With Applicable Surcharge.

SEALS AND GASKETS Cylinder head gaskets are covered in conjunction with repair of above-listed components.

COOLING Water pump (Limited to one-half of parts and labor costs).

ELECTRICAL Alternator, starter and voltage regulator (Limited to one-half of parts and labor costs).

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'm not a big fan of used car warranties but have seen them pay off. Note some of the exceptions - Hmmm?

I'd rather see you take the vehicle to an independent for a go thru now. Perhaps an hour or more labor but less than the 6 month deal. If it's in trouble now negotiate the fix pre-purchase.

In general if it checks out ok now and you maintain it there probably won't be any surprises but used is used. IMO anything covered up would probably show up in the first 3and 3 that isn't an extra charge,


T

97 Eclipse - Something went awry

Showing 7 out of 8 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From avatarati on 97 Eclipse - Something went awry

Hi guys, I'm a little frustrated because I just rebuilt this engine 10,000 miles ago. Sucks to drop $1,100 into something only to have it break shortly after. Anyway, here's the info:

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS (2.0 DOHC) 152,000

I rebuilt my engine about 10,000 miles ago and after about 5,000 miles I noticed that oil was starting to leak on the backside of the block. Shortly thereafter, it developed a slight "knocking" sound but it didn't sound too major to me. Not a hard knocking or anything. It would also "click" slightly on the front side of the engine, somewhere around the power steering pump.

Anyways, I was driving down the interstate last week and all of a sudden the oil pressure light comes on. I'm two miles from my house so I decided to see if I could make it...maybe not the best decision. About a mile later, my engine starts stalling out during acceleration and the RPM's drop to zero - the engine died. I pull over, start the engine again, then make it about another 1/2 mile before the engine dies again. Try to start it, and it seems to sieze up. Instead it made this slight grinding sound (like my bearings were spinning out) before it comes to a dead halt. By this time, I'm thinking...it ran out of oil and now my car is toast...great.

I get it towed back to my house. The next day, I check the oil...it's full! I try to turn over the engine, it makes about half a rotation (the crankshaft IS turning). Checked the timing belt, it's still intact. Battery has voltage, starter is making contact with the flywheel. It won't try to start that well...it makes a quick "swoosh" and then nothing. Wont' even try to fire. I turned on my ignition and tried to listen for the fuel pump...didn't hear anything. This is a little odd, considering the grinding noise it made the last time I tried to start it on the highway, plus the fact that there was a little smoke coming out from underneath my hood after it died the final time. I figured the engine massively overheated due to an oil pump failure and the engine was ruined.

Don't think it's the coil pack or the plugs...all are new. Fuel filter was changed about seven years ago though...lol :(

I'm a little confused. Does this sound like the oil pump failed? I re-used my old oil pump, but I inspected all of the internal parts and cleaned it thoroughly. It seemed pretty solid when I put it back on the engine during the rebuild. Granted - it had 140,000 miles on it, but it looked and operated like brand new back then.

Anyone have any ideas what I could check? I'm not even sure if my car makes a fuel pump noise during key on. Never noticed it before.

Response From Hammer Time


I was driving down the interstate last week and all of a sudden the oil pressure light comes on. I'm two miles from my house so I decided to see if I could make it.

I re-used my old oil pump, but I inspected all of the internal parts and cleaned it thoroughly. It seemed pretty solid when I put it back on the engine during the rebuild. Granted - it had 140,000 miles on it, but it looked and operated like brand new back then.


Seriously?................... and you are surprised the motor let go?

I think you have just found one more thing that you shouldn't have tried at hold. Rebuilding an engine is not a DIY job as you just found out.

Response From avatarati

We all start out somewhere. I didn't rebuild the engine because I had to. It was working just fine. I rebuilt it because I wanted to learn how to. And I had a 30 year mechanic by my side. He did advise against using the old oil pump though. I was just getting cheap by that point. For good reason though. It was a learning experiment. I was just seeing if I could get it running because I like fixing things and learning.

Thanks for the condescending remark though.

Response From Hammer Time

I was just seeing if I could get it running because I like fixing things and learning.

For $1100, you could have gone to a real pricey trade school and not had a blown motor now.

Response From avatarati

It was the lasting bonding moment I had with my father before he died in a head-on collision with a drunk driver. So yea, it was worth the $1,100 to do one more thing with him before that happened.

Do you think it's the oil pump or not.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Sorry to hear about your father...

If I read the post right, it only turns 180 degrees & locks up? If thats right something came loose and that traced down 1st.
With everything that went on before it died, it might not be a bad idea to drop the pan and take a peek....

Response From Discretesignals

Pull the valve cover. Usually the first thing that goes when there is lack of oil pressure is the cam bearings and or camshafts.

Response From Sidom

That is one route to go and it is a good way to learn BUT you don't want to do this with your everyday driver. Its best to get an old project car and tear into it...It way more fun, you aren't pressured by time because it has to get back up & running, etc, etc....

Sound like this one is going to have to come back out again