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Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Oil Pumps

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Sealed Power
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L Sealed Power

P311-402A9D5    224-43469V  New

601-8147 , OM-155-HV , M155HV , DM155HV

Qty:
$59.44
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Check For Pan and Crank Clearance Hi Vol Pump (25% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump) 3/4" Screen Inlet Must use IS Shaft w/Steel Guide
  • Speed-Pro® delivers the power you need and the value & quality that you deserve. Whether you are running at the track, chasing trophies on the strip or just cruising down the road, count on Speed-Pro to provide the best value in HP engine components.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Canada X OHV V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Sealed Power
1992 Chevrolet Commercial Chassis Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L Sealed Power

P311-402A9D5    224-43469V  New

601-8147 , OM-155-HV , M155HV , DM155HV

Qty:
$59.44
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Small Block Style Oil Pump Check For Pan and Crank Clearance Hi Vol Pump (25% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump) 3/4" Screen Inlet Must use IS Shaft w/Steel Guide
  • Speed-Pro® delivers the power you need and the value & quality that you deserve. Whether you are running at the track, chasing trophies on the strip or just cruising down the road, count on Speed-Pro to provide the best value in HP engine components.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Engine Version Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Chevrolet Commercial Chassis GAS 7 OHV Chevrolet V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Sealed Power
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L Sealed Power

P311-3E3D45E    224-43469  New

DM155 , HM155 , OM-155 , M155 , 12555283 , 601-3024 , 601-8146

Qty:
$44.63
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure 3/4" Diameter Inlet Hole
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic United States X OHV V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Sealed Power
2009 Chevrolet Equinox Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.4L Sealed Power

P311-50DBB58    224-4152  New

601-1922 , 4152 , M134 , 10118640 , DM134 , HM134

Qty:
$87.54
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Chevrolet Equinox F OHV V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Sealed Power
1992 Chevrolet Commercial Chassis Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L Sealed Power

P311-0522B6F    224-4143  New

A55HV , EP55HV , OM-55-HV , OP56 , 50135 , DM55HV , 4143 , OP115 , HM55HV , M55HV , WG318X , 601-1047 , EM99HVS

Qty:
$54.36
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Check For Pan and Crank Clearance Hi Vol Pump (25% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump) 5/8" Screen Inlet Must Use IS Shaft with Steel Guide
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Chevrolet Commercial Chassis Z OHV V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Sealed Power
1972 Chevrolet C30 Pickup Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L Sealed Power

P311-405B26F    224-4146  New

DM55 , OP55 , 50029 , HM55 , EP55 , A55 , 10055850 , EM55 , 601-1057 , OM-55 , M55 , MM-55 , OP116 , OP319 , 4146

Qty:
$34.65
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure 5/8" Diameter Inlet Hole
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1972 - Chevrolet C30 Pickup V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Sealed Power
1990 Chevrolet S10 Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 2.8L Sealed Power

P311-50DBB58    224-4152  New

601-1922 , 4152 , M134 , 10118640 , DM134 , HM134

Qty:
$87.54
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • 2nd Design Standard Volume and Pressure 3/4" Diameter Inlet Hole
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Chevrolet S10 OHV FI V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Sealed Power
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 4.8L Sealed Power

P311-3F368AC    224-43645  New

601-2106 , 12563964 , 601-8191 , 12586665 , M295 , 12 58 6665 , 8-12586-665-0

Qty:
$114.97
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Pump not recommended for High Milage Engines with low oil pressure. Standard Volume Oil Pump Recommend using a new Pickup Tube Assembly when installing oil pump.
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic OHV V 8 Cyl 4.8L 294 -
Sealed Power
1974 Chevrolet Blazer Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L Sealed Power

P311-0522B6F    224-4143  New

A55HV , EP55HV , OM-55-HV , OP56 , 50135 , DM55HV , 4143 , OP115 , HM55HV , M55HV , WG318X , 601-1047 , EM99HVS

Qty:
$54.36
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Small Block Stlye Oil Pump Check For Pan and Crank Clearance Hi Vol Pump (25% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump) 5/8" Screen Inlet Must Use IS Shaft with Steel Guide
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Chevrolet Blazer GAS V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Sealed Power
1969 Chevrolet Estate Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L Sealed Power

P311-405B26F    224-4146  New

DM55 , OP55 , 50029 , HM55 , EP55 , A55 , 10055850 , EM55 , 601-1057 , OM-55 , M55 , MM-55 , OP116 , OP319 , 4146

Qty:
$34.65
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Not for Use in Hi Perf. or Special Engines. Standard Volume and Pressure 5/8" Screen Inlet
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1969 - Chevrolet Estate V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 5736
Sealed Power
1995 Chevrolet C3500HD Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L Sealed Power

P311-3E3D45E    224-43469  New

DM155 , HM155 , OM-155 , M155 , 12555283 , 601-3024 , 601-8146

Qty:
$44.63
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Small Block Style Oil Pump Standard Volume and Pressure 3/4" Screen Inlet
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Chevrolet C3500HD K OHV V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Sealed Power
1991 Chevrolet C3500HD Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L Sealed Power

P311-405B26F    224-4146  New

DM55 , OP55 , 50029 , HM55 , EP55 , A55 , 10055850 , EM55 , 601-1057 , OM-55 , M55 , MM-55 , OP116 , OP319 , 4146

Qty:
$34.65
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Small Block Style Oil Pump Standard Volume and Pressure 5/8" Screen Inlet
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Chevrolet C3500HD K OHV V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Sealed Power
1967 Chevrolet K20 Suburban Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.3L Sealed Power

P311-0522B6F    224-4143  New

A55HV , EP55HV , OM-55-HV , OP56 , 50135 , DM55HV , 4143 , OP115 , HM55HV , M55HV , WG318X , 601-1047 , EM99HVS

Qty:
$54.36
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Small Block Style Oil Pump Check For Pan and Crank Clearance Hi Vol Pump (25% Addl Vol of Oil than Stock Pump) 5/8" Screen Inlet Must Use IS Shaft with Steel Guide
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1967 - Chevrolet K20 Suburban V 8 Cyl 5.3L 327 5358
Sealed Power
2013 Chevrolet Corvette Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 6.2L Sealed Power

P311-3F368AC    224-43645  New

601-2106 , 12563964 , 601-8191 , 12586665 , M295 , 12 58 6665 , 8-12586-665-0

Qty:
$114.97
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Excludes 2010-13 Grand Sport Pump not recommended for High Milage Engines with low oil pressure. Standard Volume Oil Pump Recommend using a new Pickup Tube Assembly when installing oil pump.
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Chevrolet Corvette Base W OHV V 8 Cyl 6.2L 376 6162
Sealed Power
2014 Chevrolet Tahoe Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 5.3L Sealed Power

P311-3F368AC    224-43645  New

601-2106 , 12563964 , 601-8191 , 12586665 , M295 , 12 58 6665 , 8-12586-665-0

Qty:
$114.97
Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • with Iron Block Pump not recommended for High Milage Engines with low oil pressure. Standard Volume Oil Pump Recommend using a new Pickup Tube Assembly when installing oil pump.
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Chevrolet Tahoe 0 OHV V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Genuine
2017 Chevrolet Caprice Engine Oil Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L Genuine

P311-3EC19C4    W0133-1866488  New

Qty:
$186.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Chevrolet Caprice V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Genuine
2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 4.2L Genuine

P311-2600F43    W0133-2009900  New

Qty:
$298.05
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Oil Pump and Timing Cover Assembly
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT L 6 Cyl 4.2L 256 -
Genuine
2018 Chevrolet Traverse Engine Oil Pump 6 Cyl 3.6L Genuine

P311-2042F39    W0133-2009890  New

Qty:
$249.15
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Front Cover
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Traverse V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
Genuine
2018 Chevrolet LCF 3500 Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-2D51801    W0133-2301474  New

Qty:
$138.29
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Chevrolet LCF 3500
Genuine
2018 Chevrolet LCF 3500 Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-2D51801    W0133-2301474  New

Qty:
$138.29
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Chevrolet LCF 3500

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

chevrolet 350 oil issues

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Gezzer on chevrolet 350 oil issues

1972
Chevrolet
corvette
350
111000
Engine oil bypass issue.
Attempting to start engine and the oil will leak oil at a high rate with pressure from the filter base on the block. Have tried several type s of filter with the same result. This car has set for 11 years inside. Any ideas before I rebuild?

Response From Hammer Time

Have you taken a reading on your oil pressure?

Are you sure it's coming by the filter seal?

Response From Gezzer

yes. there is no oil leakage above this area. The very short time the engine ran (30-45 sec) I did not have the chance to look at the oil pressure indication. the oil blows pass the filter seal area very fast. I'm trying not to damage any bearing, but looks like a rebuild anyway..........

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I wouldn't5 be jumping to that conclusion. There should be a base that the filter attaches to that can leak also.

If it's actually blowing out oil filters, then you must have too much oil pressure which could just be a check valve in the oil pump.

Response From Gezzer

thanks for the reply........I'm going to pull the oil pan and look at the pump....

Response From Hammer Time

Why would you do that without even taking a pressure reading/

Oil Leak on 2000 Chevrolet Metro LSi

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From timdaniel on Oil Leak on 2000 Chevrolet Metro LSi

For a 2000 Chevrolet Metro LSi, 4 cylinder, 3-speed automatic transmission, 1.3 liters.

So I have put in UV dye into the engine and watched with a UV light to see where oil is leaking from, as it is coming out about 1 drop every 30 seconds while the engine is running. After doing this, I noticed it was coming from this sort of electrical connector that is between the oil filter and the exhaust manifold. I would call it by name but I don't know what it is called, or why there is oil coming from it. It does have a hexigonal shape, so I assume it can be loosened or tightened with a wrench. Could anyone please shed some light on this? I have some pictures here hosted on my google drive:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bwtjzvm7qxfIVzdVdkRRWW53T2M&usp=sharing

Response From timdaniel

Just wanted to put an update for all those who might be interested. The repairs were successful.

See, I had done the crankshaft oil seal about a year ago, and I believe I did not put it in all the way so thing behind the harmonic balancer basically grinded and shaved the seal until it was leaking. This time I did follow the book and used a large socket to tap it into the hole and it is not leaking, not one drop. Also the oil pressure switch was indeed leaking quite a bit. This may have been because I noticed it leaking once and tried to loosen it or move it because I did not know what it was, and when I did that, I believe I made it leak. It was very confusing because the oil goes everywhere so it is hard to pinpoint exactly where it was coming from, but if your car is leaking from some unknown location, I recommend that you go and buy some ultra violet dye, and a ultra violet light which you can buy for about $10 cheaper at Target or Walmart by buying it in the pet department, as it works great for also finding pee stains on the floor. Putting that in the engine and using the light showed right away what the problems were. I also noticed a few drops coming from the valve cover seal and so I redid that and it is now not leaking at all and it has been a week.

So anyways thank you guys for helping me out. God bless.

Response From Hammer Time

The dye should be a very last resort for only very hard to locate leaks. A substantial oil leak will spread that stuff all over the place, including your driveway. It will hinder any future attempts to locate oil or even air conditioning leaks. Once it's all over the motor, there is no getting it off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree - I don't find dye helpful at all for automotive use - even A/C not this issue.
OP: Just a warning on oil leak at harmonic balancer: A balancer is two rings of metal w rubber as a shock in between that will slip or up to wobble and fall off not tolerant of oil for long. Any vehicle failures have been rare but oil was the most likely cause IMO,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Couldn't make your pics show but doesn't matter.
What you seem to have described is an oil pressure sender and they do leak thru them without being loose at all. Frequently just a special socket and a new one screws right in where old one came out.
Watch out. That 30 second drop of oil can flood out with no notice so you have your warning to be sure, name the part and replace it like yesterday!


T

Response From timdaniel

Thanks guys. Now does it have to be a special socket or can I use an adjustable wrench?

Response From Hammer Time

You're never going to get that out with an adjustable wrench. In fact if you intend to do any more work on your car, throw that wrench away. All it can do is destroy parts.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not going to search out the cost of the socket but should be under $10 bucks. They fit the switches without breaking them - who cares to get one out but not the new one going in. It's also one place generally allowed to use Teflon thread tape precisely and only on threads or what old pharts like me call thread sealer by Permatex, brush in cap again just on threads.
Your engine is at stake over this so if not sure how to this it's a while you wait job by any decent tech unless unusually hard to get at. Check for leaks like you would for a drain plug for oil as matter of good practice,


T

Response From timdaniel Top Rated Answer

Yes, you were right. However, the autoparts stores I went to (Pep Boys and OReilly's) both did not carry the size for the oil pressure sensor switch. But I went home and found out it was exactly a 15/16 socket. So, I also did not have a long one of those but I went to an Autozone and found one for 15/16. It is not leaking whatsoever from there now. However, it is still leaking from the crankshaft oil seal and the oil pump seal it looks like. So that is what I will work on now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't say they are all the same 15/16, think deep 12pt with a cut out so you don't bust the new switches. I have the right tools or even now would go get THE correct one as those if broken are a powered oil leak meaning you are pumping oil out as in gallons per minute.
Now if you think you have other leaks with one leaking as fast as that it also spilled so wipe area off without hosing down your engine just dry clean areas suspect and watch for them to have oil return actively or again and again keep checking.
It might be all done leaking but take a while to look just dirty and normal or not.
IMO and experience if you really need either crank seal it could be an early warning engine is wearing out via excessive blow-by pushing oil mist out of a front one and under pressure to most rear ones.
Rear main seals will put out as little as a drop every day, two or almost never from new to lube them, fronts don't show it.
Keep an eye out for any engine in your care as nothing is faster to kill an engine than running out of oil PRESSURE if by the level or not pumping doesn't matter it will quickly die so check it's level on a schedule by dipstick no more waiting for any warning lights.
Don't misunderstand oil or any warnings on dash. Red oil lights mean it's too late not time to check it. No dash indicator light is that good to tell you it's time just to simply add oil. Junkyards are full of those cars,


T

Response From timdaniel

No, it is not "exactly" a 15/16, but it did the job. I must say that it was pretty scary because it felt very tight going in. This was probably due to the fact that the thread was threaded with some kind of teflon it looked like. I tightened it up until I felt like it was starting to become more difficult, and then stopped.

So about the leaking though. I have had a leak at the rear main seal too. I put in some Bar's Rear Main Seal repair and that seems to have stopped that for now.

As for the crank shaft seal, I did the following to see if it was leaking:

1) Before all this I went to Target and bought a "spot detector" which is a UV light, and cheaper than what they sell it for at the auto parts stores. Then I got some UV dye from o'reilly's and put that in. That made the oil fluorescent. That was how I noticed that the oil pressure sender switch was in fact leaking.

2) Before actually putting in the UV dye, I did spray quite a bit of engine degreaser and clean up the engine as much as I could. I used a can and a half to be exact. I cleaned up all the spots that were really oily.

3) After replacing the oil pressure sender switch, I then noticed that the car was still leaking, but not from the oil pressure sender switch. That was nice and dry. It was coming from somewhere behind the timing cover. So,

4) I removed the drive belts, pullies, etc, and then the timing cover. I then sprayed all in there with engine degreaser and tried to clean it up as best as I could. Then I put the alternator belt, water pump and harmonic balancer back on and ran the engine with it all together. I watched as I noticed that no oil was coming from the cam shaft at all, except for a smiggen around the cam shaft and the valve cover, which was not much at all.

The crank shaft seal however, seemed to be spitting or spraying oil. Not a lot, but over time, it would easily form drops and drip. Not nearly as fast as the oil pressure sender switch, but pretty fast. I then determined that I would change the crank shaft front seal, as well as the fuel pump seal, because they both come in a kit for only $7.00.

P.S. I do always check the oil. I always keep it full. I don't drive that much but, when I do, I check the oil before I go. I am paranoid of anything I work on I guess. But there is always enough oil to be driven, and I always check it after it has sat for a long time, not right after driving like when you pull into the gas station.

Please shed any knowledge you might have, as I would appreciate it. Thank you again.

Response From Hammer Time

I must say that it was pretty scary because it felt very tight going in. This was probably due to the fact that the thread was threaded with some kind of teflon it looked like. I tightened it up until I felt like it was starting to become more difficult, and then stopped.

The thread is tapered pipe thread. that's why it get tighter as it goes in.

Response From timdaniel

On the actual switch though, should the thing be pressed up against the engine? What I mean is should it go until it cannot turn at all?

Response From Hammer Time

No, just enough to be tight enough so it won't leak, just like tightening a pipe into a fitting.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - The damn switches use a special socket not just what might work. You could do that with an assortment of extractors too or possibly Vice-Grips of assorted types. The switch is sensitive so the wrong way or tool it might be torqued on incorrectly and blow out if you messed it up installing the new one, forget the old one as it's going in the trash anyway.


" I put in some Bar's Rear Main Seal repair and that seems to have stopped that for now."


Ya - that shows exactly what you DON'T KNOW! Or perhaps what you do know which is enough to get in more trouble.


Not sure why I'm bothering but you do understand how and engine uses oil as a bearing and lube itself? I know you don't. There are no roller bearings commonly used any engine so all parts are riding on the thinnest film of oil if perfect there's zero or so close to that there's never metal to metal contact or and engine wouldn't last a whole minute or much longer never minds years and many thousands of miles.
The wear on the crankshaft allows it to move too much from wear. That up down wear beats up seals so the can't last long.
An engine is only new once and made so precisely the bit that bore one only last a few times and new ones used. You can't take many parts out of one and put them in another the same day it was made never mind now.
Your engine is worn - they do that greatly over miles, conditions and how well lubed. Since you said you are cheap you probably think saving a buck on types or brands of oil doesn't matter too.
Bad luck happens to but if all was just right there's almost no wearing out a well made engine from new with care mind you.
Finding inordinate leaks us done assorted ways, UV dyes just one.
Already said now that the machine work of an engine in this case shows it's wearing and they do that normally a little bit at a time and the oil pressure switch was in the "Bad Luck" category. Many engines will fail to other leaks to wear over use and time.


I suggested strong observations of oil leaking now that you found a very active one. If you used the wrong tools or did it the wrong way somehow it's back on the watch list,


T

Response From timdaniel

Yes, for about 2 to 3 years now, I have been using the 10w30 Certified oil from Sam's Club. It comes out to be about $2.30 per bottle, which is why I use it. I did read about it though before making the decision to use it, and most people agreed it was acceptable oil.

Well, I guess I get what I paid for. It has about 187,000 miles on it. It was a rebuilt engine though, so in reality it has about half of that. Live and learn I guess.

Response From timdaniel

What do you think of these ceramic additives to engines like (links to makers of mechanic in a bottle makers not allowed) Since you mentioned blow-by, I looked it up. IF that is the case, then I guess it's time for a new car because this one is only worth about $1000 kelley blue book. But either way, if I can fix it for just $100, why not? What do you think?

Response From timdaniel

Yeah, I agree. I would not use it normally. I am just trying to not spend money

Response From Hammer Time

Well, that's the best way to end up spending double what you would have in the first place.

That doesn't even take a regular socket. It is a special socket for oil pressure senders only.

Response From Hammer Time

That's the oil pressure sender for the gauge/light. You need a special socket to remove it but they aren't expensive.

3.1L rockerarm adjustment

Showing 7 out of 10 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From dave284 on 3.1L rockerarm adjustment

Well guys... got a little problem with a 2000 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1. I replaced the lower intake gasket, and I can't get the ticking out of it...there was a tapping/ticking noise before but it only lasted a minute then stopped...now I can't get it to stop, I adjusted the valves over six times til I got pissed, the manuals I have said to torque the rockerarms to 89 in.lbs... no matter what I do it doesn't seem to help, I changed the oil and added lucas oil treatment...no change, I did notice there was no flow of oil in the front valve cover even when I rev the engine.
I went and puchased a new oil pump and wanted to know if I might have missed something. This thing has got on my nerves, someone said the rockerarm torque was suppose to be 14 ft.lbs...I don't want to damage the lifters. Any advice would be helpful, thanks.

Dave

Response From jwelch

these engines use two different lengths of pushrods, might want to make sure they are in the correct spot

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Been there and done that Dave. If the push rods are not correct it will run like garbage. If it is running ok you are probably fine on the push rods.

Response From dave284

I didn't mix up the oil rods, and I have done this before with no complications. I just got done with the oil change and the tapping is coming from the rear head, also the needle is sticking in the right of the temp gauge but the engine didn't run long enough to get hot and it won't go back down,plus now I got two trouble codes po306 miss on #6 cylinder and po300 multiple misfire which came up after 3 minutes...I went back checked all the connections, they're all right. So I'm gonna give it one more shot and start disassembling it for the 7th time...this is becoming a real pain....I don't know if the car is cursed or if its me.

I haven't installed the oil pump yet, since the oil did change color while it was running, but I can't tell if the oil is moving in the valve cover...(the front valve cover has the fill cap and you can see the valves). Thanks guys, I'll let you know if it blows-up.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Dave
Glad you got it all taken care of. BTW I didn't mean to imply that you goofed and got the rods mixed up. Just that I have done this job many times in the past also, and got the rods all screwed up once. Organized them in a box sticking out but didn't lable my box. DOOOHH. Glad all is well.

Response From dave284

No dout that it can happen, been there...done that. I have learned in the past about mixing things up when working with internal engine parts...(talk about a mess)but that was in the younger days. I made a custom oil rod box out of wood and felt,its about 18 years old,still holding up. With this vehicle, I almost started to question myself about the oil rods being mixed, but all in all everything turned out o.k. Thanks Jeff.

Response From dave284

I found what might have been the trouble to at the beginning, my torque wrench calibration was off and the fuel rail had pinched the wire harness, now if I can get the temp needle to return to the left side I'll be good to go.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Dave - what's with the temp needle? Did it get shocked beyond normal, possible travel and stuck there?

If so - Trick: I've been able to go thru the existing hole the resets trip odometer with super fine wire (stuff used for flower arrangements works mint) and persuade them back to where they belong if that's what happened. That totally depends on exact dash layout if that's even close,

T

Response From dave284

Tom, this thing with the needle was my fault, the injector rail was leaking somewhere and I had to remove everything to see where it was, I had to turn the key on to start the fuel pump to find the leak...so its possible one of the unconnected wires grounded itself, the funny thing is that the ect was never unhooked. Anyhow I fixed the pinched wires and retaped them,but after all that the needle still didn't move back, I just have finished putting everything together and hooked the battery back up....the needle still didn't move until I cranked it up and now its back to normal...I already thought of the ideal you suggested and was gonna do that after I stopped the engine noise.But the ticking/tapping has stopped, the car is running great! To understand (what) caused that temp needle to do that, I don't know, but its something on the injector harness. Now to finish up with the rear brakes and replacing the radio. Thanks Tom for asking.

Dave

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Try this old trick. Its worked for me in the past to free up sticky lifters. Put a half to a full quart of transmission fluid in the oil. Idle it till the ticking stops and the do a oil change. Lucas wouldnt hurt after. Worth a shot mayby

Chevy S-10 Valve noise

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Question From Rwolf on Chevy S-10 Valve noise

I have an 1996 Chevy s-10 two wheel drive with an 2.2 engine, with only 50,000 miles on it. I think that the valves need to be adjusted, but I'm finding no info. on how to do it or if you can do it. I can't think that it would be an oil pump problem, but I will check that with an mechanical gauge. Would putting an engine scrub additive in it or using an thicker oil (30 w) instead of the 5w30 that it says to use, or is that not a good idea. Any help would be great !

Response From Hammer Time

What is the problem with the truck that your trying to repair?

Response From Rwolf

I'm having excessive chattering noise that sounds to me that the valves are slapping around and need to be tightened, almost sounds like I have a diesel.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It could be a number of things but there is a TSB concerning the timing chain on that vehicle.


Here it is




File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-61-21A
Date: April, 1998 Subject:
Timing Chain Noise Conditions (Replace Timing Chain) Models:
1993-96 Buick Century
1992-97 Chevrolet Beretta, Cavalier, Corsica
1993-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
1994-97 Chevrolet and GMC S Models
with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
This bulletin is being revised to correct Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin 87-61-21 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some of the above noted vehicles may exhibit a clattering noise at idle speed originating from the timing chain and front cover area. Chain wear in excess of the maximum travel of the timing chain tensioner may create noise that may be objectionable to some customers.
Cause
Lack of regular maintenance, as referenced in the Owner's Manual and the resultant lack of lubrication and buildup of deposits inside the engine may accelerate wear of the timing chain. In addition, there is a small lubrication hole in the front oil passage plug that could become blocked with debris if proper engine maintenance is not followed.
Correction
If the owner of the vehicle indicates a noise concern, inspect the timing chain and tension In addition, confirm oil flow from the front oil passage plug and replace the timing chain, timing chain tensioner, and both the camshaft and the crankshaft sprocket if necessary to correct the noise.

Response From Rwolf

Thanks Hammer Time, I will check that out, I still would like to know if you can adjust the valves or not. Thanks Again Richard

Response From Hammer Time

Valves don't go out of adjustment on their own. Look elsewhere for your problem. If it is coming from the valves, it more likely an oil pressure issue.

94 s/s s/10 lost oil pressure and oil all over engine

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Question From chrisalisa on 94 s/s s/10 lost oil pressure and oil all over engine

hi, i have a 94 chevrolet s/10 s/s. it has 178,000 miles on it, and has the 4.3 vortec engine. i was on my way to work and i seen the check gauges light come on. looked to see my oil pressure was bottomed out and i noticed blue smoke (oil smoke) coming out the back. i dont think it was coming from the exhaust due to the fact that when i got to work i lifted the hood and there was oil all over the front of the engine from the radiator to the oil pan. i lost no horse power, i had no knocking or rattling, no over heating. i pulled into work and went to turn it off and i heard a faint ticking. i dont think it slung a rod, could it be my oil sending unit, or maybe some crazy oil pump issue. had no trouble before this. truck runs like new till this happened. any ideas would be appreciated. i have not gotten it towed home yet so i havent had a chance to look it over. just wanting some ideas for when i do get it home. thanks again

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Your guess is good as ours. A visual inspection should find the culprit.

Response From chrisalisa

lol, yea im ready to figure it out. i have built several engines and some crazy things happen but i have never seen this. really weird. ill keep yall posted on what i find. itll be sunday probably before i get to look it over.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tough engine IMO + you might just luck out? Duh - find what blew out first and fill w cheap oil first to see. FILL NEW OIL FILTER WITH OIL FULL AS BEST YOU CAN!


If this has a remote oil filter anything to do with that could do that or somehow any oil cooler or lines to an oil cooler. I doubt oil filter could get oil sprayed up high but should be obvious. Oil pressure sender I think is on back near distributor area and can blow but again shouldn't blow all the way forward from there.
T


I wouldn't spend big bucks till proven OK on a fix of the leak. Good luck, you need some about now,


Cross fingers that it just may snap out of it and be fair at best with some impact from that at a minimum.

Response From loin_lord

I've got a 98 s10 with a vortec 4.3. At first, I was gonna say check the tightness of your oil filter, since it is fairly close to your exhaust and that would cause the smoke. Then I reread your post and mentioned that oil was collecting up front by the radiator as well... I've never had this problem myself, but maybe the front main seal (where the crankshaft meets the pulley that drives the belt... not sure what the formal name is) somehow went out and the air movement blew the oil all about up front.

Sorry to hear this. Those 4.3's are good engines. Hopefully it isn't major and you can get more miles from it.

Response From Hammer Time

Oil doesn't splash forward. It only runs down and back so it you have oil in front of the radiator, it can only be a cooler or something mounted up there but this thread isn't about your truck so we'll drop that idea.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Haven't heard back from OP yet so dunno what was found yet. Oil filter probably wouldn't spray up to radiator on this engine UNLESS a remote one perhaps.


Front seal? Probably not. I've seen them leak like they're missing just by hitting brakes then stop other times?


This one has to be obvious with that mess as it was described,


T