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LKQ
2008 Suzuki Forenza Door Mirror - Right LKQ

P311-0BC3481    SZ1321111  New

Qty:
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LKQ Door Mirror  Right
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Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Suzuki Forenza Right
LKQ
2007 Suzuki Reno Door Mirror - Left LKQ

P311-154B702    SZ1320111  New

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LKQ Door Mirror  Left
  • Power Assembly; With Heated Glass; Paint To Match
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Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Suzuki Reno Left
LKQ
2008 Suzuki SX4 Door Mirror - Right LKQ

P311-59A4E9D    SZ1321113  New

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LKQ Door Mirror  Right
  • Power Assembly; With Heated Glass; Paint To Match
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Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Suzuki SX4 Right
LKQ
2012 Suzuki SX4 Door Mirror - Left LKQ

P311-1BC78E8    SZ1320112  New

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LKQ Door Mirror  Left
  • Power Assembly; Without Heated Glass; Paint To Match
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Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Suzuki SX4 Left
Dorman
2003 Suzuki Vitara Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-0A253CF    955-1483  New

8470267DB05PK , CV40194101R00 , 9331-5087L , 69010S

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Dorman Door Mirror  Right
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    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Suzuki Vitara Right
Dorman
2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-0A253CF    955-1483  New

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Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Right
Dorman
2000 Suzuki Vitara Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-0A253CF    955-1483  New

8470267DB05PK , CV40194101R00 , 9331-5087L , 69010S

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    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Suzuki Vitara Right
Dorman
2003 Suzuki Vitara Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-46D74F8    955-1484  New

69010S , 8470267DB05PK , 9331-5087L , CV40194101L00

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    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Suzuki Vitara Left
Dorman
2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-46D74F8    955-1484  New

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    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Left
Dorman
2001 Suzuki Vitara Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-46D74F8    955-1484  New

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    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Suzuki Vitara Left
Dorman
2005 Suzuki Verona Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-4CE961A    955-1647  New

8470186Z00

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Dorman Door Mirror  Right
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    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
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Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Suzuki Verona Right
Dorman
2001 Suzuki Vitara Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-31D1C9A    955-1668  New

8470266D105PK , 69008S

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    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
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Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Suzuki Vitara Left
Dorman
1995 Suzuki Sidekick Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-184D3CE    955-208  New

69004S , SZ11L , SZ8194100L , 9334-4220L , 8470265A005PK

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Dorman Door Mirror  Left
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    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
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Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Suzuki Sidekick Left
Dorman
1995 Suzuki Sidekick Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-2300E87    955-209  New

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    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
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Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Suzuki Sidekick Right
Dorman
2010 Suzuki SX4 Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-45EE4EB    955-807  New

9336-1201L , 8470280JA0ZJ3 , 69506S

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    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Suzuki SX4 Left
Dorman
2009 Suzuki SX4 Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-073CD91    955-809  New

7150042 , 9332-1200L , 69508S , 8470280JB0ZJ3

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    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Suzuki SX4 Left
Dorman
2011 Suzuki Grand Vitara Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-27892B8    955-810  New

9336-5106R , 69013S , 8470165J10ZJ3

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    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Right
Dorman
2010 Suzuki Grand Vitara Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-1F0D1F4    955-811  New

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    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Left
Dorman
2011 Suzuki Grand Vitara Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-4B3E484    955-812  New

69015S , 9332-5105R , 8470165J40ZJ3

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  • ; Power w/Heat
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    • Glass Color: Clear
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    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Right
Dorman
2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-31D3931    955-813  New

69016S , 8470265J40ZJ3 , 9332-5105L

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Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power w/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Left

Latest Suzuki Repair and Mirror Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 suzuki 2.7 xl7 4x4, stalling when coming to stop

Showing 10 out of 21 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From puke on 2002 suzuki 2.7 xl7 4x4, stalling when coming to stop

2002 suzuki xl7, 2.7, 4x4, a/c, a/t, 192,000 miles
Wonderful car, we just inherited it due to a death (for our son to drive while he's in college).

1) Car stalls (or almost stalls) when coming to a stop and BRAKING.
2) Car never has done this before the engine is warmed to operating temperature
3) ONCE, I drove over a manhole cover (partially UP) and the bump caused it to do a jerk-stall and then keep going..was going 30mph or so.
4) Voltage when cold is 14.2ish,..once it is up to temperature it floats at 13.65ish.
5) Car does not stall (rpm remains steady) if I apply the brakes while idling.
6) If I am coasting downhill IN NEUTRAL..and apply the brakes..the car will still stall.
7) I don't dare drive the car backwards 25 mph and put the brakes on to see if it happens in this case.
8) A few weeks ago threw a MAF code the same time it began stalling...I changed the MAF, code went away, then came back, then went away..I realized that the code was probably a by-product of something else that I have not figured out.
9) I do not know how to hook up a fuel pressure guage unit to this to see if the pump (or a pump connection) is intermittent??Which I suspect. Cannot even see the pump connection...will have to drop the tank just to see this...even tried a mirror.
10) For punishment, I removed the EGR and it was pretty clean (and was airtite while closed)..but I did the carb cleaner thing anyway...also pulled the motor off and checked for smooth movement.

Ok,
Any ideas..I would greatly appreciate. This is driving me nuts and my wife wants it dependable. By the way,, My wife said 1 year ago (while driving her friend) it stalled at 1 corner 1 time.

Response From Discretesignals

What was the code number that you got for the MAF?

Have you inspected the intake ducting between the engine and the MAF sensor for rips or cracks that would allow air to leak into and bypass the MAF sensor?

Response From puke

1st code was MAF high output.
Installed new MAF.
Then threw MAF low output (i assumed that the computer had learned to compensate for the old maf?) ..then cleared itself.

Then a code of MAF high output happenned again about a week later,..and then cleared itself. (I was driving around the neighborhood starting and stopping over and over trying to get it to "stay stalled" so I could at least have a chance of knowing if the fuel pump is dying. By the way,..always starts right back up after the stall.

The stalling problem is always there once the car is warmed up. The code thing seems to be an intermittent type of thing....I suspect because the computer doesn't "read" the fuel pump or pressure??? Or does it????

Have inspected all the vacuum lines,, intake air ducting. etc.

Just now found an unused road and put it in REVERSE and did heavy acceleration...was cutting out just like you would expect if this thing is due to the same inertia as caused while braking...I'm sure due to the same inertia that was happening during heavy braking while going foreward.

I've cut a rather large access door over the fuel pump...the connectors appear clean and uncorroded.

Once the car is warmed up...and I start getting the stalling while braking condition.....the voltage becomes a little erratic,..and is lower than 14....but "usually" above 13.5..with a few spikes below that...I believe it is probably caused by the motor beginning to stall..because in REVERSE under heavy acceleration..the voltage doesn't appear to be dropping down,..even though the motor will cut out.

Response From kev2

get it scanned and post ALL codes...we will intrepid the code#.
try shifting to N when braking at a stop - will it still 'stumble"...?
I will dbl check but I believe Suzuki has a test valve on injector fuel rail ....

Response From puke

There are no codes right now.
In neutral it will stall or stumble when braking. (the braking has to be more than "light", as does the acceleration in reverse to get the same effect).

Also, in neutral,..it will stall when braking (when I say braking...I mean fairly heavy...like in rush hour)...even if you are coasting long at 40 mpg. It has nothing to do with "stopping" if you are in neutral. I suppose in drive..the tranny and foreward motion keeps the engine going until it is slow enough for the tranny to let go of it and let it die.

And, as I said, it will cut out while accelerating heavily in reverse.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you check the intake duct for rips? Have you tried wiggling the engine harness, especially the harness and connector for the MAF sensor to see if you can induce the problem?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Sorry if I missed something but this is consistent with a vacuum leak anything to do with vacuum boosted brakes if it can only happen with this braking you keep speaking of.
Check hose to it then try plugging it off but only in place knowing you don't have squat for braking power without vacuum to it,


T

Response From puke

Because I can induce the same problem with heavy acceleration in reverse gear,..(no brakes are involved), and cannot induce this to happen using the brakes while standing still idling...this is not consistent with vacuum problems involving brakes. Am I wrong?

A more complete description, and much more accurate,...is that this happens "with heavy decelleration" (or negative acceleration..whether it be brakes...or accelerating in reverse gear).

The brakes do NOT affect it if I am sitting still idling,..or if I am using them heavily while stopping in reverse gear.

With reduced braking power I could not induce the problem anyway unless I floored it in reverse...but without decent brakes that would make me nervouse,..even though the street is usually MT,..it is a residential neighborhood.

I've monkeyed with the connectors all over the place. yesterday I pulled the ERG,...ended up not needing cleaning but did it anyway.

A few days ago (with my fire extinquisher in tow)...I shot carb cleaner all over trying to find something somewhere where there may be a leak. Came up with nothing.

2 tidbits that may or may not help.

Without decelleration I went over a manhole cover that was half up and the bump made it do a quick stall (jerk) and then just keep going. Another thing...one night I was reproducing this over and over again in my neighborhood..and it stalled once and wouldn't start for 5 minutes...

OK, that's all I have.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Not as likely if can happen without brakes. IDK why you think reverse matters except it's hard to go fast anywhere?
Been ages since a booster has been an issue I've personally been involved with. Was usually a vacuum hose to it if anything. If you've reset codes now with other attempts if booster anything was leaking that bad it would throw codes again soon. If bad enough of a vacuum leak other items would get poor vacuum and make wrong adjustments. TMK still vacuum to a brake booster must not share with any other vacuum item but if bad enough intake vacuum would drop for everything, run like crap or stall every time.
Take a look but don't think that's it right now yet at all,


T

Response From puke

In answer to your question,..the reason reverse matters is because accelerating in REVERSE, I can introduce negative inertia without applying the brakes... which would tell me that it is not braking in and of itself that is causing it...but the negative inertia involved with braking.

Response From Discretesignals

You need a special adapter that goes into the end of the fuel rail to connect a fuel pressure gauge too.

The factory tool number is 09919-58421. Some of these master fuel pressure tester kits may have that adapter. At idle it should be 30-37 psi.

Have you attempted cleaning the throttle body bore and plate and then resetting the computer memory? Something easy to try if you haven't.

Just seems like a harness issue or bad connection somewhere, but you stated you checked harness, wiggled them around. Pay attention to how the harnesses are ran. Look for harnesses that appear to be rubbing on sharp object. Sometimes just spending 30 mins to an hour looking at wiring and other things can turn up the culprit.

If nothing shows up visually, it could be a difficult one to figure out without scan data and to see what goes missing right before the engine stalls out. When I usually get something like that, I do a good visual inspection, which it seems you have. Then check for codes and look at some scan data. If nothing looks unusual, then the lab scope comes out to look at injector and coil current or any other system that could cause stalls. Catching which system or systems stop working right before the stall can be challenge for an experienced tech. The good thing is your able to duplicate the concern.

One clue is the MAF codes that were showing up. Tracking down why those codes would appear could lead you to the culprit. Again you would need something such as a digital storage lab scope to monitor the signal, power, and ground at and from the sensor to see what is going on with that. It is also possible those codes could have set if you unplugged the MAF with the engine running.

Response From puke

I just put in a new tps (I broke the connector of the old one getting to the egr to service it..it was stuck..whoops),
I put in a new IAC to see if the old one was haunted or something.
Idles around 700 rpm,..had to adjust the new one (was idling really high till I figured out the slots were for adjusting it,...it had slots rather than holes like the original.

Took it for a drive,..took a while to warm up due to winter (it's below freezing a few degrees).Once it warmed up the problem was still there. On one of my heavy braking stops trying to make it stall....when it stalled...IT THREW A CODE. MAF high output.. I think thats P0103. I am not sure how to use freeze frame data, but I looked at it,..the fuel trims: one bank at 7 percent, the other at about 10 percent. Speed was 10 kilometers per hour, rpm was a bit over 1500 if I recall correctly..which makes me think the fault happenned closer to when I first hit the brakes..rather than when it was almost stopped.

After my initial stall this morning, it would stall every time I hit the brakes hard while stopping (I did not try accelerating in reverse at this point because there is snow almost everywhere...I could only find 50 feet of road without snow on it).

Here is one more piece of info. Once it has come up to temperature,..I can let it idle in the driveway...within 15 or 20 minutes it will stall (like if someone just shut it off) ..but start right back up easily. And then not stall while idling again for another 15 or 20.

AT THE POINT OF THROWING THE CODE, THE IDLE CHANGED TO 1100ISH RPM. I shut it off and restarted it....still idled high. Then I erased the code and the idle was normal. Still looks like a wiring thing to me, but I don't know what else to check with the wiring.

Since my MAF is new,...is there a chance the original and this one were BOTH bad??? My guess is that the original, as well as my replacement, were both good.
I do appreciate the input.

Response From puke

This has one fuel rail on each side...I think, it's a V6,...I am guessing that the two rails come together at the back down where it is very hard to get to. Since I've cut a hole for fuel pump access already,..I might just TEE in at the outlet. But I can't tell which of the two hoses is the outlet and which is the return...so I kind of stopped. I've been in the throttle body with carb cleaner and it looked awfully clean, I was surprised. I do not know what the "plate" is...so I probably didn't monkey with that unless I did it not knowing what it was. This was just carb cleaner stuff..I didn't pull the whole thing off or anything,..at my age...it's just not as easy the worse the arthritis gets. I did reset the computer memory shortly after I changed the MAF...that is when I cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner.
I agree...it seems like a harness thing to me also. I tried to chase the main ground from the motor to the battery negative..and even with a mirror I can't see where it is bolted to the motor block..so I haven't checked the tightness of that yet. Haven't driven it on ramps yet to check underneath... I have poked my head underneath trying to find a spot where the wiring to the fuel pump may be rubbing...was hard to see much.
I have an o-scope (I haven't used it in so many years I might not remember how) and a few VOMs and DVOMS,, but they are electronic in nature..not auto (due to the business I am in) and other than checking voltage drop, current, and resistance... all I have for diagnosing a car is a regular auto-Xray scanner, and a wireless adapter that I use with my smartphone (much handier than the scanner..but hey....back when I bought the scanner it was big bucks..now they are cheap). When I bought the wireless I was hoping it would give me "everything".. but it doesn't even give me fuel pressure (maybe there isn't even a sensor on the car for this).

I have heard of rare instances where, as a motor wears out (NOT necessarily a fuel pump on a car)...if it's sitting one way it works...but sitting another way it will show open windings. Whatever the chances of that being the case here..I don't know,..but intertia is the same thing as tipping a motor.

As electrical connectors warm up the resistance increases.... but..it's like 32 degrees outside..you would think if it's an intermittent open circuit..it would be close to the warmth of the motor.

Do I "have" to check the fuel pressure at the rail...now that I've cut a hole in the back to access the pump??? Can I just plumb in my guage there? This is mainly because I don't know where the test port is and I doubt I would have the right fitting in all my plumbing junk.

Response From Hammer Time

ROFLMAO

Response From puke

I eliminated that by accelerating in reverse. No brakes in use..but still sputters. And,..I'm not sure I have any hypothesis whatsoever, why the inertia of heavy braking (or heavy acceleration in reverse) would be the only thing to induce a vacuum leak... And, on top of that, it is not that often that a vacuum leak will only happen warmed up...although I must admit I am out of guesses... My main guess is something electrical in nature because electrical properties change with temperature. And, in a car,.. the computer changes how things behave as the car motor comes up to temperature. For a while I had a hunch the fuel pump was intermittent..but the pump...how could it warm up if it is bathed in gasoline to keep it cool. That's the part I dont' understand. If I can find the test port I want to see if the fuel pressure goes to hell just before the fault.

Response From puke

Yes, I've tried to induce this by a lot of things. Knocking on the fuel pump,..monkeying with all the connectors I can find..,, The only thing that will induce it for sure is introducing negative inertia after the motor is up to operating temperature. (Either braking going foreward,..or accelerating in reverse gear.

Response From puke

Ya, a couple people on a couple toubleshooting chatboards have suggested brake booster vacuum issues..but I think it's because in all cases they didn't read the whole description.

It is My mistake by not taking the booster/vacuum completely out of the equation sooner (by accelerating in reverse to duplicate the inertia of braking without using the brakes). But I thought braking while standing still would nullify that direction...plus at my age I don't like accelerating in reverse.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just FYI and think you know and not concentrating on it just how it works. Vacuum is highest at idle and when engine is used as a brake for example like downshifting for steep downhill driving no longer really done or useful.
The other side is when engines are working hard, up hills or especially WOT (wide open throttle) there is no intake manifold vacuum to be had to it's stored for use in a booster or other things when used so they will work when not directly available.


Booster should work with power assist a time or two with even a stalled engine! It would have boost the next day even. If unplugged (careful of the valve at booster can break) it should "whoosh" that it was holding. If not, why?


That's all. Carry on, Tom

Response From puke

One more (probably relevant) piece of info.
If I apply the gas when I am braking and coming to a stop,..the rpm will decrease but not die..then come right back up again...I do this in neutral.
I took off the iac and cleaned and tested it about 4 weeks ago and then put it back on.
but, because this is intermittent... (if it weren't for the fact that I can make it sputter, etc., by accelerating rapidly IN REVERSE)..I would be thinking put on another iac to make sure. I ordered one yesterday just to make sure. Is there any way the IAC could cause this while accelerating in reverse?????? I think not, but don't know where else to go with this.

Response From Discretesignals

Is there any way the IAC could cause this while accelerating in reverse??????

No, IAC shouldn't cause stalling if your accelerating.

Did you check the intake duct for rips or tears?

Response From puke

CHecked the ducting a million times...like I said, I am at a loss as to where to go next. I do have a fuel pressure guage and fittings if I can find where the port is.,..someone said this 2002 suzuki 2.7 xl7 might have a port to plug in a pressure guage,..but so far I don't know where it is.

2007 Suzuki Reno - several problems

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Question From kb12345 on 2007 Suzuki Reno - several problems

Hello all!

I found this forum through Google, because I could really use some advice on my car, and I'm too flat broke at the moment to take it to a repair shop.

I drive a 2007 Suzuki Reno, with 67000 miles on it. There are several problems with it, but right now the biggest one, and my main concern, is the air conditioner/heat. For the past month, it has only been working intermittently. A few weeks ago, I got in my car one Monday morning, and then turned on the heat, but nothing came out. There was no noise, or anything, there was just simply nothing at all coming out of the vents. It was like that for the rest of the week. When I got in my car that Saturday, I tried turning it on (just as I had done every day that week, just to see if it would work) and to my great surprise and delight, it actually worked. It kept working like normal for the rest of the week, but then the next Monday I got in and it had once again stopped working. Now, yesterday, it has started working again. What could be causing this?

I wonder if this problem is at all tied in with the car's other issues. I don't know anything about cars, but I wonder if it just has a bad electrical system. When I first got this car about 3 years ago, the check engine light came on the second day I was driving it. At the time I lived at home, and my dad took it somewhere and they said it was fine. Anyway, that light's been on ever since then. However, more recently I've had other dashboard lights come on. For example, the airbag light has been on for several months now. Also, when I plug in my ipod, you can't hear it unless you pull the cord tight, in a certain direction. I've taken to just wrapping the cord around the rearview mirror and pulling down on it. At first I thought there was something wrong with the iPod, but it works fine everywhere else so it has to be the car. Also, don't know if this has anything to do with it, but recently a couple of my headlights have gone out.

I should probably also mention that I am badly in need of new front tires. Again, I don't know if this has anything to do with the car's problems, but since I don't know anything about cars, I figured I should mention it just in case.

Anyway, I would greatly appreciate any and all advice! Thank you!

Response From Discretesignals

For the AC/Heater system it appears from your description that the blower fan isn't coming on. You won't have an air coming from the vents if the blower isn't working.

The trick is to check the electrical circuits of the blower when the problem is occurring, to determine where the fault lies. To tackle something like this yourself, you would need an electrical schematic, volt/ohm meter, and a basic understanding of how the circuit operates.

The check engine light and ABS light are turned on by their respective electronic control units to indicate that there is a fault in one or more of the systems that those control units monitor. When a fault occurs the control unit stores a trouble code to help the tech determine which system/subsystem to begin diagnosing at. To get the engine codes you can plug a code reader into the diagnostic port under the dash. To get the abs codes you'll need an enhanced scan tool.

If you have no experience troubleshooting electrical circuits or the equipment on hand, you'll probably have to take it into a repair shop.

Response From kb12345 Top Rated Answer

Well crud that sounds complicated. I suppose I will have to bite the bullet and take it in somewhere.

Thank you for your advice, it is very much appreciated!!