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2005 Suzuki Forenza parts question...

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Question From tmap on 2005 Suzuki Forenza parts question...

2005
Suzuki
Forenza
(I don't know the engine size)
It's got about 90,000 miles on it.

Can anyone tell me what this is called? I've inserted a link to a photo where I have circled the part in my engine that i would like to replace by myself (it seems easy enough to me):

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's a plastic cover. Just what do you want to replace in there without even knowing the engine size? If you are looking for the air filter it appears to be lower left in that picture,

T

Response From tmap

The "plastic cover" is what I want to replace. It's somehow broken off of the thing that it was clamped on to. Actually, it seems more like rubber than plastic.. I just thought there was a more specific and proper name for it than "plastic cover." AND it's not just the cover, it's the whole "rubber box" that I circled in the picture that I am trying to find new.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

A generic name is the air intake housing but manufacturers make up new names all the time. Just go to the draler and the will have an exploded diagram to pick it out from.

Response From tmap

Thank you very much, Hammer Time :) YOU were helpful... unlike the other guy who seemed patronizing.

97 suzuki Sidekick p0171 and rough idle

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Question From julius415 on 97 suzuki Sidekick p0171 and rough idle

Hey everybody didnt see any posts regarding my problem so here it goes.

I have a 1997 suzuki sidekick sport 1.8l with 108k. Some months ago the car started having a rough idle. When ever i came to a stop light the rpm would fluctuate up and down and the car would almost stall out. It progressively got worse and the car did start stalling when at a stop. During one of the rough idling episodes i decided to turn off the car, wait for the stop light to turn green, then turn it back on. But when i went to turn on the car, it wouldnt turn on, in fact not even the dash lights light up. So i called toyota service (they do suzuki's in hawaii), and had them check it out. Turns out during all the rough idling shaking a hose had come loose and spilled ( i think power steerin fluid) all over the alternator, which fried it and i ended up running the battery dry. They also told me my computer was fried. Had all of that replaced and the car turned on but still rough idle. They told to change maf, did and no change, then iac, did also and no change, then they had the nerve to tell me that the whole throttle body had to be changed. I argued they gave me the run around, so i jus paid and got out of there.
I went for a 2 month trip, and while i was gone my friends was using my car. Turns out a oil leak started and the engine ran with very low oil for a while. I came home it was running horribly. Took the engine apart saw that a couple of piston rings were broken and had scratched up the cylindes. Had machine shop hone cylinders, install oversize pistons, and check head. Got everything checked and ready and put it back together. Car is running alot better almost to full power, but now the rough idling returned.
I cleaned egr valve, checked for vacuum leaks the propane method didnt find any( first time doing it so i am not sure if i did a good job at it). But visually inspecting all hoses look good ( no cracks). There was a crack on exhaust manifold and i put thermosteel on it. Seems to be holding and i cant feel and hear any air coming out. I did notice that at first car runs great and no rough idling, but once it warms up the problems start. Also when i reset the ecm things get realy bad.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, i have been trying to figure this out on my own without going to costly mechanics. Also the ecm pulls up a p0171 code, and a p0420 code but i dont have a catalytic converter so it think that is why.
i checked the voltage for o2 sensor and had a constant reading below .45V, which in the haynes book says it is defective. but when i really gas the car i shoots up to .8V. So i am thinking it is not defective but i just get a constant reading below .45V because the mixture is lean. right? and therefore i am getting the p0171 code.
Also since no codes for any of the sensors are coming up it is safe to say that they are working?
anyways hope somebody can help thanks
Julius

Response From Discretesignals

What is the O2 sensor voltage when your cruising or off idle? Can you monitor fuel trim % with your scanner?

Response From julius415

i measured the o2 voltage with a digital multimeter, with car parked. When idling readings are .1V or below. Haynes repair book said to rev car and readings should fluctuate above and below .5V, but that doesnt happen it stays at .1-.3. But when i fully rev the car the reading shoot up to .8V. Through out the testing the car was rough idling. and i dont have a scanner to measure fuel trim.

Response From Discretesignals

You check to see if your EGR valve was stuck open? That one has an electronic stepper motor EGR valve. The only way your going to be able to tell if it is open is to remove the valve and see if you can blow through it. If the EGR valve is recirculating exhaust gas at idle speeds, the engine will run rough and lean.

Response From julius415

i cleaned it out pretty good with carb cleaner. didnt try to blow through it though. will give that a try. any other suggestions ill get back to you in 20 min.
thanks

Response From julius415

egr valve checks out. cant blow air through it

Response From Discretesignals

There has to be some sort of vacuum leak going on. It must be a pretty good size one to cause the symptoms your experiencing. You may need to swing into a shop that has an EVAP smoke machine. The machine pressurizes the intake with smoky air. Any leaks will show up by the smoke.

How are your power brakes? The wrong PCV valve can also cause a lean symptom or surging. Pinch off vacuum lines including the PCV hose and brake booster hose to see if your idle surge goes away.

Response From julius415

okay thanks ill try pinching the lines. and for the smoke machine i did some web search and found that some people used fog machines(halloween kind) so i think im gonna give that a try. alot cheaper than going to a shop. and brakes work fine except for some squeaking but thats a diff. issue lol
thanks again

Response From Jonas Brunz Top Rated Answer

Hello, I'm having the same issue on my 98 sidekick. Did you find what is causing this? Thanks! Jonas

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Please start your own thread with your own specifics and not tag on someone else's,

T

1982 suzuki GS 1100

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Question From carrie_cat on 1982 suzuki GS 1100

Trying to get motorcyle running well. crankcase Oil is blowing into transmission case.Then leaking out of the transmission overflow. What could cause this?

Response From Archi Joshi

Hi,
That is a result of blow-by, engine compression blowing past the compression ring and forcing oil into the air filter via the crankcase ventilation system...

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This thread is 2 years old. Please check the dates before posting

Removing Suzuki Alternator

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Question From comnavguy on Removing Suzuki Alternator

2001 Suzuki GL 1.8L L4 engine.

I have disconnected wiring and removed all bolts/nuts and I can not get the alternator out.

I tried to remove it from the bottom, but there is not enough space between the CV and frame.

Do I need to remove the power steering pump and hoses and take the ALT out from the top?

Response From freddo

after changing alternator did you have any idle issues

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is over a year old. If you have a question, please start a new thread.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Is it an Esteem or a Swift model?

Response From comnavguy

Sorry - it's an Esteem

Response From Hammer Time

Here are the factory instructions


1.8 liter model

  1. Disconnect negative cable at battery.
  2. Remove air cleaner outlet hose, engine under cover (right side) and exhaust pipe No.2.
  3. Disconnect "B" terminal wire and coupler from generator.
  4. Remove generator belt.
  5. Remove generator cover.
  6. Remove mounting No.1 and No.2 bolts or bracket bolts. (Remove bracket bolts instead of No.2 bolt only when No.1 bolt can not be removed.)
  7. Remove generator.

Response From comnavguy

WOW! That's from the factory manual? Nothing about removing the power steering pump or moving the A/C high line out of the way?

Amazing, to say the least!

I already had the alternator completely disconnected but was hoping for details on how to remove it from the bottom rather than to have to remove the P/S pump and other stuff.

But thanks anyway.

Response From Hammer Time

I gave you the way the factory says it can be done.

Response From comnavguy

I DO appreciate anything and everything I can get, and I thank you for that.

Apparently Suzuki is no better at writing shop manuals than they are at design and manufacturing.

Warren

PS: Is there anything else with the penguins in your message? Does the little feller who gets knocked down get up and move on or does he smack the other guy?

Response From Hammer Time

LOL, nope, that all I have on the penguins. It just shows they have attitudes too.

The manuals are usually pretty accurate. They don't get into a lot of basic details because they are written for technicians and not the general public but they are usually correct.