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Dorman
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-0171920    955-012  New

43290 , FD66094105L00 , F7AZ17682BA

Qty:
$62.82
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Grand Marquis Left
Dorman
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-3CACD21    955-013  New

FD66094105R00 , 43291 , F7AZ17682AA

Qty:
$65.01
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Grand Marquis Right
Dorman
1997 Mercury Mystique Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-2424BD1    955-036  New

F5RZ17682E , 2510132 , 42228 , F8RZ17682FA , 61576F

Qty:
$57.91
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power Smooth Finish
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Mystique Left
Dorman
2005 Mercury Mountaineer Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-5D00E07    955-046  New

FD73EL , 3020432 , 1L2Z17683BAA

Qty:
$41.02
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power wo/Heat w/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Mercury Mountaineer Left
Dorman
2005 Mercury Mountaineer Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-2484EA0    955-047  New

3020431 , 1L2Z17682BAA , FD73ER

Qty:
$40.22
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power wo/Heat w/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Mercury Mountaineer Right
Dorman
2004 Mercury Mountaineer Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-4E3D01A    955-048  New

1L2Z17683CAA , FD74EL , 3020042

Qty:
$46.30
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power w/Heat w/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Mercury Mountaineer Left
Dorman
2005 Mercury Mountaineer Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-154EDF6    955-049  New

1L2Z17682CAA , FD74ER , 3020041

Qty:
$46.30
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power w/Heat w/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Mercury Mountaineer Right
Dorman
1993 Mercury Sable Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-19BFAE9    955-116  New

FD13EL , F3DZ17682B , 42194 , 3331-4100L , 61504F , 2560032

Qty:
$32.90
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1993 - Mercury Sable Sedan Left
Dorman
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-23EA3EB    955-262  New

F3AZ17682A , 42213 , FD66094100R00 , 61519F , FD21ER

Qty:
$76.88
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Mercury Grand Marquis Right
Dorman
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-4D62CEB    955-263  New

F6AZ17682BA , FD66094101L00 , FD22EL , 61522F , 42214 , 3332-4235L , 61521F

Qty:
$64.33
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power w/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Mercury Grand Marquis Left
Dorman
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-42C0B1D    955-264  New

FD22ER , 42215 , FD66094101R00 , F6AZ17682AA , 61522F , 61521F , 3332-4235R

Qty:
$64.81
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power w/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Mercury Grand Marquis Right
Dorman
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-54A6850    955-271  New

42095 , 3020132 , F5TZ17683B , 3331-4261L , FD30EL , 61014F

Qty:
$34.07
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power wo/Heat wo/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Mercury Mountaineer Left
Dorman
2001 Mercury Mountaineer Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-0A36633    955-272  New

F5TZ17682B , 61013F , FD30ER , 3020131 , 3331-4261R , 42195

Qty:
$34.07
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power wo/Heat wo/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Mercury Mountaineer Right
Dorman
1993 Mercury Cougar Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-0E5212D    955-275  New

2580032 , 61512F , 40195 , E9SZ17682B , 3331-4259L , 2580132 , FD32EL

Qty:
$53.29
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Mercury Cougar Left
Dorman
1992 Mercury Cougar Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-158452E    955-276  New

2580031 , 40095 , E9SZ17682A , FD32ER , 3331-4259R , 2580131 , 61511F

Qty:
$53.29
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power Black
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Mercury Cougar Right
Dorman
1997 Mercury Sable Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-2892043    955-278  New

3332-4643R , F8DZ17682DA , 42203 , FD69194100R00 , 61535F , FD37ER

Qty:
$34.62
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power w/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Sable Right
Dorman
1997 Mercury Sable Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-3A3AE06    955-287  New

61530F , F7DZ17682DA , 2560132 , 3331-4642L , 42004 , FD36EL

Qty:
$34.73
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Sable Left
Dorman
1997 Mercury Sable Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-5DD25CF    955-288  New

FD36ER , 61529F , 3331-4642R , 2560131 , F7DZ17682CA , 42104 , XF1Z17682FAA

Qty:
$36.44
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Sable Right
Dorman
2005 Mercury Sable Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-21A248E    955-499  New

61570F , 3337-2000L , 61608F , 6F1Z17683BA , FD78EL , FD69294106L00

Qty:
$50.17
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power Fixed w/Heat w/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Mercury Sable Left
Dorman
2004 Mercury Sable Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-38DCF89    955-500  New

5F1Z17682BA , FD69294106R00 , 61569F , 3337-2000R , 61607F , FD78ER

Qty:
$50.17
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power Fixed w/Heat w/Puddle Lamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Mercury Sable Right

Latest Mercury Repair and Mirror Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

95 Mercury Villager - Stripped Caliper Bolts?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on 95 Mercury Villager - Stripped Caliper Bolts?

Hey I have an interesting problem. I went to change my brake pads on my villager yesterday and it seems as though someone from the last shop I took it might have stripped the bolts on the caliper. The bolts that are supposed to be on there are torx 40, and thats the socket I have, but it wouldnt go in the hole at all. Then when I looked at the actual bolt it was almost totally round and absolutely not torx 40. Could they have replaced the original bolts with some weird one i have never seen? or am I right in my theory that the monkeys stripped it? And if they are stripped, what would I do about it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Take a real good look with a mirror if need be to be sure if it's rounded out or just wrong size for what you are trying.

It might be full of junk (clear it out with a pick) or could be stripped. If stripped and you have an assortment Allen + Torx and can find one that's just a tad too big and hammer it in for a solid grip and replace the bolts with new ones.

If possible to grab from round outside with small pipe wrench that may work. DON'T REUSE THEM NOW!

They can just get corroded and round up - not necessarily mechanic problem or caused,

T

Response From Guest

Yeah Thanks. I just looked at the bolts i didnt need a mirror and i saw that theyre really bad. at first i thought it was clogged with either rust or brake dust or dirt or something but i cleaned it out and its all rounded. I guess tomorrow ill try what you said and replace them. thanks for the help.

86 Cougar idles fine, but when pressing gas pedal it dies

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From LogansTPost4 on 86 Cougar idles fine, but when pressing gas pedal it dies

HELP!! My 86 Mercury Cougar w/ 6cyl eng & mileage unknown as digital speedometer went out long ago & so did the replacement(a guess would be 350,000-400,000+), aka My Baby, has started giving me a slight problem. After it gets really warmed up & I come to a stop or slow down in traffic, when I press the accelerator, it dies. Fortunately, it has cranked back up - but still scarry during heavy traffic times. It will idle fine all day long, but the minute you press that gas pedal it dies. Although, I knew this wasn't the problem, I gave in to the request to have the idle increased. Did not solve the problem. I really love this car - has been unbelievably a great vehicle with little major expense. I make sure the oil is changed and transmission serviced, so I'm not willing to give up. My regular mechanic has retired and doesn't want to tackle the job of trial & error, so I thought if I gave him a little help - he would help me out. Does it sound like a fuel or vacuum problem??? Since this is an "old" car - maybe WaytooOld can help - or anyone else!!
Thanks!
86Cougar

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You mean our famous way2old with the crystal ball?


Might need that with so many miles as the book's wide open and he's the only one with the ball!

Till he drop by - does this drive ok if you don't suddenly accellerate? Guesses for now - perhaps a TPS or a fairly large vacuum leak.

It's in order to check things overall. Timing chain condition, fuel pressure and a host of things.

Side note on digital dash: Have you just tried to see in an analog dash will fit in the same spot with the same plug? I'm not sure but it just might - if you are ever junk yarding take a look at some all torn apart to see if plug and wires are the same or have most of the same wires. It's possible the extra data for digital is just extra and plain dash panel would fit right in and work with what was displayed on regular dash,

T

Response From LogansTPost4

Thanks for the reply, Mr. Greenleaf....
Let me give you one of the instances: Drove to work in the morning and on my way home that afternoon stopped by the store - everything fine. Cranked car up after store, drove thru parking lot to red light-car is idling fine waiting on light to turn green; pushed gas & car wanted to go dead. Kept it running by keeping foot on brake & ever so slowly pushing gas......got off the busy road but had to fight it on my way home, actually did go dead 2 times but started right back up-did the brake & gas thing again. You can stop at a light or in traffic and will idle fine - don't know you have a problem until you press the gas...then bogs & dies.
Family & friends say the old Cougar runs, when everything else breaks down!! I'm just trying to keep it running for another year or two - to retirement. I work downtown and the overspray from sandblasting & painting of ships @ Shipyd ruins paint job, windshields, etc & don't want to drive the other car - besides I still love my Cougar.
There is an automotive shop my husband has used for his truck - just figure they may not want to fool with my car since it's so old; but I know there is still life under the hood!!!!!
Regarding junking for Cougars - you can't find that many in the junkyds....have been lucky with Ebay motors on some items.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm sure this is "must fix" situation + love affair with a car that's been so good to you - been there and still doing it myself!

I'm totally caught up and hope it's not sending you off on the wrong tangent for a fix but it's so "throttle" sensitive that it wicked makes me suspect the TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. Here's a link on how to test one.....

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006b842

The thing looks like this.....



Just two Phillips head screws hold that down BUT watch out - they might be good and stuck. Take a "Q" tip and some PB (Power Blaster) pentrating oil/spray and put some on anything threaded you think you ever might need to remove.

It very well could just be the connector - clean/wipe ---- good place for WD-40 and some "dielectic" grease or silicone grease is really the same.

This is a great part to go get used IMO. I'm almost certain there's just two for the vintage and you won't know till you take it off - the part underside that turns and changes resistance to tell injectors how much fuel to add will be either black or blue and I think that's all that matters. Note that two tangs are sensing the screwdriver like pivot of the throttle plate. Those tangs must be on the correct side of the nubs of the TPS - you'd see when you get there if you do.

Back to used parts: Does this Cougar share any exact dash parts with T-Birds? If so it gives you more cars to chase. The engine shares lots with Taurus, Sable and other 3.8s so that helps.

Timing Chain: They don't last by age alone if original you have a record for miles. OE was a nylon cam gear that didn't hold up despite any care you give the engine. Not yet on me on a Ford but I've had them jump back and forth and somehow pick the right spot over and over but you can test for how slack it might be if you want - another discussion.

Keep at it,

T

Response From LogansTPost4 Top Rated Answer

Mr. Greenleaf.....Since you were so kind to reply to my desperate call for help, I thought I would update you on my Cougar. Mustered up enough nerve to take it to shop and they were very nice to me.....probably thought this ole lady must be crazy to still be driving this old car!!! Anyway, the mechanic set the timing 8 degrees - not sure what that means or what would cause it to need this done. Does this sound viable to you? My husband picked up the car so I didn't get to ask any "blond" car questions!!!! I have been driving it for 2 days and so far, so good. It took me a 3 days to get up the nerve to drive it out of the yard. It's a pretty scary feeling when your vehicle goes dead and you see cars approaching in your mirror.
Thanks for your response......who needs that old wizard guy anyway!!!!!!!

86 Cougar

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off you can call me Tom or the wacko with the Kitty!

OK: This is interesting info and brings about ideas for this car. What may have happened is the shop/tech advanced the timing 8 degrees to to 8 degrees and that allows it to run again somewhat well.

The overriding question is why did it need adjustment??

A. Someone move it and didn't reset it.

B. Something is worn allowing it to go out or range! Sorry to say I thinks it's that

Back when with the high and unknown miles on this car I mentioned the timing chain. It's really just a heavy duty chain with two gears. Not unlike what you see on a bicycle but much stronger. OK: The lower part of the engine is with the crankshaft and the top runs the valve train via a camshaft and also turns the distributor which when set is supposed to deliver spark at the correct time - handy little idea huh?

What can happen is the gears and chain wear and become loose to hold the correct position. It's possible for them to jump a tooth or two and still run but not so well. At three or four teeth off it about won't run at all.

You can cover this by adjusting the timing but it's a fast patch if it's truly worn and did jump! You can ask to have chain movement tested which is done by taking cap off of the distributor so you can see its rotor. Then turn the crankshaft by socket at the lower pulley/aka Damper while watching the timing marks. You turn one way till rotor on distributor moves and mark that spot. Then go the other way and see how far in degrees which are marked on that damper it goes before the rotor in the distributor turns and count those degrees. A few is normal. There's beginning to be trouble around 5 degrees. Bet yours would show 6-12 which means something has to be done if you wish to depend on this car.

You can't see this timing chain and its gears but that does indicate its wear and chances that it can jump off the exact tooth it belongs on.

Take that info (now you won't sound so blond (really - as if guys know diddle either!) when you inquire about that.

I'd put that high on the list of possible troubles with an old high mile car and if you have some tolerance to go thru some repairs like that it can still serve you for longer

T

Ps: Here's a pic of a typical timing chain and gears installed but everything removed so you can see it!



See - If that's too loose it can jump off the right mark......

Overheating 86 Towncar

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From gingavitis on Overheating 86 Towncar

Hi all, this is my first posting here. I searched for a little more information but being female and all, I only know so much about my car. Don't get me wrong though, I know an awful lot more than most. My car has many many issues, and I would not doubt that some may be contributing to the other. This is what I can tell you:

1986 Lincoln Towncar Signature Series, 5.0. Mileage, unknown. It never worked when I bought it, and it only reads up to five digits anyways, which does read somewhere in the 15,xxx's, which I am sure it is probably more like close to 2xx,xxx's. I drive like a grandma, so I am good to my car and keeping them running longer than most.

The most recent work we had done on my car was because it would not pass emissions. We tore off the intake plentum, cleaned, took off valve covers to replace gaskets, (suspected the place of oil leak, turned out we were wrong), replaced sensors and most, possibly all hoses for coolant. Some sensors were not even connected, and several hoses in the back of the plentum were blocked shut with rust. (This explained why we could never get the system flushed when we tried for hours after we replaced the water pump about six months ago, same time we also replaced the thermostat.) Also replaced all vacuum lines as they were brittle and breaking at the touch.

After a week's work on the car, sometimes staying up all night to do so, we put it back together. We tried flushing the coolant system again but still came back dirty, just not as dirty as before. We suspected there was leftover residue in the not-so-old lines that had been replaced months ago, and it rumbled happier than I had heard it in a long time. Seemed to be going through more gas the first day, but it sounded so very happy. Passed emissions, results were about half all across the board from what they were before.

I was checking fluid levels all week to be certain everything was tightened down. Coolant levels were low, the next day it was dry. Also when I popped the hood after parking it seemed extremely hot under there, much hotter than normal (for about a year I have had to unhook the battery every time I park for several hours because there is something draining it, not sure what yet). Then finally one day, I had to make a stop before home, and on the way home I stalled out from overheating. My ride home was usually 20 minutes, with stop it was about 30-40. Hoses seem clamped well, but as time has gone on, I have water at all times, and fill before I go anywhere. It is always empty. Now I can only drive for about 15 minutes before it stalls out and won't go anywhere again for several hours of cool-down, unless I only want to move for only two minutes.

Very long story, I apologize. We suspect that part of the problem may be the thermostat is blocked open from some rust that was broken loose, therefore overheating, also suspect could be water pump has gone bad from the overheating? How do we tell? When I first drive, the first few movements through first and second gear it sounds like my belts are squealing, but the belts are not damaged and not getting worse, and as tight as they can go, and straight of course. Is that possibly the water pump squealing? Once I move into third gear it seems to get much quieter but still present, and doesn't quite scream like a belt does.

If you have any ideas on what else it could be, please let me know. I am having a real hard time right now, not to mention hard to come up with cash to fix the car, so any thoughts are a big help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If need be, flush cooling system again! Pressure check cooling system. Look for vent hole on bottom of water pump - it should be dry. You need a mirror to see that.

There is a metal heater hose that goes under upper intake that is known to rust out. new is going to be trick but can be found.

These cars eat fan clutches. Just look at fan when just shut down and it should stop almost right away. If you toss that make sure it's a thermostatic one.

Radiator may need to go. If you are filling it all the time you need to find out where it's going. When you catch it low take a look inside for how crusty radiator tubes might be or clotted with rust. Never exceed 50% antifreeze as pure product doesn't work well at heat transfer.

Trickle drain on battery: Just take the bulb OUT of hood light, trunk light and glove box. Hood and trunk are "mercury" switches and can be bumped and stay on and you don't see it. That and if parked on an incline they come on and you don't know it! Also, overhead reading lamps and the ones in the back will stay on if messed with and you or a passenger forgets to turn them off!

Belt noise: Not big bucks but you almost have to get either Dayco's or Goodyear's "Quiet" belts Goodyear's is called "Gatorback" and they will stretch faster and need periodic adjustment. Don't tighten them so much as the kills bearing of components! Just tighten right at the point where you can't spin alternator fins by hand and leave it there.

Oil leaks can be the low oil sensor on side of oil pan or aggravated by a poor PCV system. The grommet and valve is way down back of engine and tricky to even get your hands on.

Could be blowby from a now older engine. Not dead so easy as they are tough. Trick, while at idle try like a near spent cigaretty with dipstick part pulled out. Smoke should go DOWN the dipstick tube as a good indication PCV system is still overwhelming any blowby.

BTW - OE thermostat was 192F Don't try to lower that to solve cooling issues. 195F is more common and close enough. If you went to 160F or even 180F it's not helping - trust me!

T

Response From gingavitis

Yes! That stupid metal hose was rusted in a spot, and it was hard to find anywhere. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Dealer said it would cost $120 new, we ended up creating one with fittings put together from Lowe's, about $12 bucks. It is tight and does the job. We have tried flushing it again after it started stalling with no change.

I will have to check the radiator, good point. For fear of dumping antifreeze all over town and killing the wildlife, have chosen not to use antifreeze until problem is solved, just using water for now. Yes I know it can rust it up so much quicker, but I don't want to contribute to a dirty world.

As for the battery, when it first started we did check the bulbs, although the trunk light was not coming on while closed, we pulled it anyways, and it still had the problem. I checked the hood light at night and it was not on while hood was closed. If it's any help, it started after I replaced the battery. I took it back to check for problem, it wasn't the battery. It's not anything being left on that is the problem; it happens every time.

I'm really not certain it is the belts squealing, the guys think it might be the water pump going bad? Do they do that when they go bad? Sad thing is, belts and water pump are not that old. Belts are newer.

We have since found the oil leak issue, the grommet is pretty much gone. You can see it just by crawling under, it is hanging in there. The PCV valve... that was quite interesting. The major job we did of removing the plentum; upon getting to the PCV valve, we noticed it was only attached to one hose, and it was so dirty we couldn't even blow through it. Very puzzling to know it was not attached, has been replaced along with several of the other valves. You think that's probably what caused the oil leak to start?

Thank you!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's a lot here so let's take bits and pieces..........

PCV system: The idea to to create a slight vacuum in crankcase areas and burn some misty oily vapors while at it. When the crankcase has pressure instead of slight vacuum it will blow out weaker gaskets. This engine requires taking off that upper intake to do then simple valve cover gaskets as you found out. What stinks is those gasket do better if you can warm up engine and re torque them a couple times - not much more than screwdriver tight but you can't run the engine with that upper manifold off!

Ok for short term to use just water till leak is located. If you think water pump is making the noise take the belts off and spin the components by hand. No wobble allowed for the pump or the clutch. Well - the slightest bit. Pressure test system - you'll find the leak. Dye the water or use some antifreeze to see traces of the color.

Hey - anything holding coolant could leak. These are not generally head gasket eater engines but who knows? The well hidden freeze plugs could be the issue!

Another weak spot for electrical trouble is the main plug to the alternator. Look for heat damage there to that plug. They sell just the pigtail ends to those to solder in a new one.

If you look at the alternator, note how little % of it touches the belt. They will easily give you a quick squeal right after start up and are near periodic to snug up a bit but as said don't overdo it!

You have age and miles on this car. They do well but that takes a toll. Watch your expenditures as you may come across something that is big trouble at this point and decide what to do if that happens.

Side note: I own three of these right now and have had several. Here I lost the battle to rust. One I'm parting out real soon as it's in the way now. That's an '89 last of that series of Town Cars. Tons was the same for years on these and also Crown Vics and the Grand Marquis for many silly parts now getting hard to get OE stuff,

T