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I own a 2000 Audi TT

Every time I turn the regular lights on, the option to turn the fog lights on automatically turns on.... I can't get it to just have the regular lights on and I get flashed every time I'm driving at night... and suggestions?

There are a few variables that could be causing this; believe it or not there are at least four different headlight & fog light configurations for this year of TT.
It could be anything from the headlight switch, fog light switch, headlight dimmer switch to the fog light relay sticking on. All of these different components are inter wired; so that the system when working properly will not allow you to have high beam headlights and fog lights on at the same time.
If you just want the fog lights off and don’t care if they work or not; try unplugging the fog light relay. This relay is supposedly in the “Micro central electrical panel” under the left side of the dash? No doubt there’s more then just this one relay in there; all I can suggest at this time, is to turn on the headlights and start unplugging relays until the fog lights go out?
If you want it fixed to work as intended: I suggest taking the car in; so that a tech can see what system this thing has and then follow the appropriate wiring diagram to find the root cause of the problem.

Dan.

I have a 1997 all wheel drive 2.8 liter Audi A6 Quattro with 140,000 miles and i am having some electrical problems. I had some codes pulled up that told me that the Engine/transmission electrical connect 2 open circut was short with power. My power supply terminal voltage was too low. My brake light switch front not plausable signal. Also my check engine light does not come on. There are more smaller things that are wrong electrical like my headlight flicker and click, the heat and air controls black out, my door locks in the back dont work, only the driver side seat warmer works. The biggest problem that Im facing now is that the transmission shifts very hard and doesnt shift gears when climbing hills. This problem happens on and off but its been like this for a few weeks now. Nothing leads up to these problems the car will be running fine and the next time you start it up these things can start happening. Before then it had been a couple months before it happened which makes me think it is electrical. Please give me some advice on what I nned fixed the most or if it is a big problem or an easy fix. Thank You, Aaron

From what you've posted it really sounds like you have some ground problems going on. Not the easiest stuff to trace down.

What you can do would be to test the battery and while it's out clean the terminals really good. Check all the body grounds, make sure there are no ground straps hanging loose or broken.

After that the best thing to do would be to write ALL the problems and codes down and go over some wiring diagrams and see if there is any common ground or even power supplies to most or all of the problems and that is the area I would start looking...

Now this is a 13 year old car so it's very possible there is 2 or more things going on but my gut tells me a lot of these problems are tied into one bad ground or shorted circuit....

1998
vw
new beetle
2.0L
156k mi

The car idles rough, stalls out, and won't immediately restart. When trying to restart it sounds like it's trying to turn over but just wont catch. Intermittent problem.

Bought the car one month ago.
It has an after market radio.
I noticed on the way home from buying that the lights on the display and the radio would pulse brighter (without discernible pattern).
I stopped for gas on the way home and the car wouldn't immediately restart. I tried a number of times. After about 30 min it started right up and got me home.

I called the guy that i bought the car from; he acted very surprised.
They had just replaced the battery.

After about a week of owning the car without further incident I took the car into a vw guy to get the belts changed and a tune up done. He did the belts and a tensioner and said ( I believe after inspecting spark plugs) that a tune up had just been done.
He cleared out a generic hvac code and the check engine light went off.

I noticed on the ride home that it initially idled a touch rougher than I'd remembered. (a/c doesn't work and is never turned on)

After a few miles it seemed to smooth out.
The next 3 or 4 days it was a dream.

Then I took the car out for some errands. After about 10 min and 3 mi, I noticed the car idling rough at the stop light. It stalled out and wouldn't restart. After about 15 minutes, a nice young man helped me push the car off the road. i tired the car again and it started right up. I made another stop before continuing home without further incident.

I went to and from work another couple days. On the second day, a guy told me my brake lights were out on both lights, but no the fin. These had both been working when I bought the car.
The front headlight had been out too. I took the car over to a big box store and replaced the bulbs (which are all different fuses, I think). While I was there, I asked the guy to use the computer to scan for codes. A generic one for hvac came up. The guy there said he's been driving for years with a similar code and that on the low end it'd cost 100s of dollars to find and ultimately just save me a few mi/gal.

The next morning the car fired right up and I took it to work (about 15 mi away). it started right up to get me to lunch. On the way back from lunch I was stopped at a red light. I looked up to go and it had stalled itself out. There was no jerking or unusual noise.
The car wouldn't restart right away. I tried for about 15 min before calling aaa.

The tow guy said he had some experience with cars and poked around for a minute. He firmly thought it was an alternator issue.

I had car towed to mechanic who tested gas pressure, batt, and alternator voltage. We noticed that the pos cable is about 1/3 severed and that the clamp on pos terminal was a little loose.

He tightened clamp and car immediately started. He sent me on my way.

About 5 min later the car stalled out on an entrance ramp to a busy expressway. (I may have failed to downshift.) The car wouldn't restart. i played with the batt cable- to no avail. AAA call #2 got me home.

She's been parked here ever since.
I've read about people with after market radios having the same pulsing light issue until they beef up batt cables. Or I can go the dealer route for more cables. Either way I'm looking at $90 - $150 for the cables alone.

I'm too po' to be guessing.
While I know I need to get that pos cable changed out, I'm wondering if collectively these experiences suggest a different issue for avoiding the stranded thang again in the near future.

Suggestions I've seen on 2 similar posts:
* idle control volume relearning on high tech scan tool (from the batt being changed. dealer only thang?)
*cam shaft sensor
*vac leaks
*throttle body cleaned

I've been out of town a week and a half. I thought I should try her to see. It didn't start the first time. The second time it started normal and after 3 min idling got very rough. I tried giving her gas again. It didn't make any difference. I let her idle another 2 min; yhe idling got more and more "wild." I turned her off before she stalled out.

I'd like to get as far as possible before towing her to a mechanic cause I want to try to have the right amount of $ to fix.

Is there a simple bigger picture that explains all of this?Could it be as easy as a batt cable or a simple push of buttons on a "high tech scan tool?"

Thanks for any help! :)

Sounds like you got a nightmare car. You really need to leave the vehicle with a technician, so they can duplicate the concern and do some testing. You might want to look at shops that specialize in VW/AUDI. Stay out of the chain stores when it comes to drive-ability or intermittent problems on those. They are not equipped to handle such issues.