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98 audi a4 flow chart

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Question From Mr.scotty on 98 audi a4 flow chart

Does anyone have a flow chart for code p1426 for a '98 Audi a4 quattro 1.8 turbo?

Response From Sidom

I can post if for you if you still need it..... The chart does require the use of a VAG scan tool..
So if you are using one let me know & I'll get it up for you....

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

I don't have a VAG scan tool but, the flow chart still might be helpful if you do want to post it.

Thanks very much Sidom.

Response From Sidom

The top paragraph & image #1 was just PID info for the VAG, since you aren't using one & in the interest of time & space, I left them out....I put the useful images below the pages they belong to......Page 3 has 2 images but it's the same connecter & term #s, so I only posted it once.....

Hopes this helps................

Response From Mr.scotty

Yes great, Thats what I was looking for.
I'm sure now that the valve is bad, It's stuck open.

Thanks again Sidom.

RPM fluctations when car is idle Audi A4 2011

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Question From mgaspersic on RPM fluctations when car is idle Audi A4 2011

Hi guys,

I have been searching for a while on this forum for any usefull informations about my problem, but I can't find anything. I hope someone could help me. I have big problems with RPM fluctations when car is idle. While car is driving everything seems to work fine, fluctations only occur when car is idle.

Here is video of my problem:

If I add more power to engine, it's running ok and also there are no fluctations when I drive car OR even there are no noticable fluctations when car have more than 1200 RPM. Also none of any strange sounds can be heard from engine. When car is idle, rpm fluctates from 700-1000 rpm also even more if I turn on A/C like 600-1000. Fluctations have similar feeling like car would run out of gas, but it don't stops. I'm sure, there is/was enough gas inside. When problem occured, car had almost half of a tank.

Car has also been tested with VAG-PC software and report was:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-019-CAG.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 019 AL HW: 03L 906 019 AL
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC H34 9097
Software Coding: 0A194012232403080000
Work Shop Code: WSC 06324 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI03L906019AL A02008 (AU48)
VCID: 75E5E5E76701
4 Faults Found:

4698 - Function Restriction due to Received Malfunction Value
U1113 00 - Open or Short to Plus
4699 - Function Restriction due to Received Malfunction Value
U1113 00 - Open Circuit
5175 - Fuel Pressure Regulation: Regulation Discrepancy
P1065 00 - Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 160206 km
Date: 2014.11.26
Time: 17:17:55

4278 - Implausible Data Received from ABS Control Module
U0415 00 - Short to Plus

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

Probably only third message is related to this problem (Fuel Pressure Regulation). There is also a date and time described and matches the time when I notice error.

I am not sure what's going on and error message which vag displayed to me is to much general to me to locate the problem.

What could cause rpm fluctations in my case? Is it safe to drive with fluctations? is it possible to damage engine? I know, that there could be number of parts which could fail, but I don't know where to start. I don't want to drive car to audi servis yet.

Car is Audi A4 2011 TDI B8 88kw 120hp, engine type is CAGC, 160.000 km.


Response From mgaspersic

Any help will be appreciated, I don't know where to start looking for a problem :/

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"I don't want to drive car to audi servis yet."
I'm not so sure you are going to get tons of help from PC reading vs what an Audi dealer's readings could do for you and if you buy these type vehicles you will end up acquainted with them.

Can wait for others to suggest away but clearly the car can't hold a proper idle and info suggests fuel delivery issues.

Video too close up sport. What I see is it was cold, low on fuel and your MIL (malfunction indicator light illuminated) I think and the RPM needle unable to stay steady. That and enough miles/kilometers that any lack of strict attention to proper maintenance if not followed to the letter is at a time to show itself as troubles for not doing it.

The basics are take fuel pressure reading to see if in spec and clean throttle body as it's IAC or equivalent clearly can't hold the idle. Using A/C is a load and it isn't compensating for that load either so that's the area of trouble but the exact fix still not targeted and you may need better info and info from the dealer or Euro equipped code readings more that that.

Sorry on my part not much help for you. Would need more info than that. So, best I can say is hurry to find the source of this problem as it will very likely domino into more problems than it has now over just this,


Response From mgaspersic

It was failed fuel rail pressure sensor. He should produce from 280-320 bar of preassure but after some measurement we figured out that he was producing more than 500 bar of pressure while car was iddling. After replacing unit, car starts to work normaly.

Thanks for your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

OK - Sounds like you've found and fixed it so will close up thread unless you request this one to be re-opened by any moderator,


2001 audi a4 coolant leak! VIDEO included

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Question From calhawk01 on 2001 audi a4 coolant leak! VIDEO included

Hi, my audi has a coolant leak. I thought it was the reservoir and yesterday I discovered it is something else where the coolant is leaking. I parked my car yesterday across from redbox. The car was idle and in park. And I spent about 5 min infront of redbox; I turned around and mostly all the coolant had leaked under my car. I opened the hood and saw the coolant leak. I made a video. Any ideas? Please advise what I should do. What parts I can buy?



Response From Hammer Time

That video doesn't tell us much. It will have to be examine closer and maybe from below but it's in the general area of the water pump but the timing cover is hiding that.

Response From calhawk01 Top Rated Answer

if you had to guess.. are you thinking a few hundred dollar fix or thousands? I was thinking it could be the lower radiator hose?

Response From calhawk01

Oh BTW i forgot to mention, I drove the car home, 1 mile away, but before i drove the car i bought a newer bottle of coolant and filled up the reservoir. What is weird is that the coolant did not leak when I filled up the reservoir. And now my car has been parked for a day and the coolant is still not leaking.

Response From Hammer Time

You need a professional to check it out.

Audi Exhaust Fix help

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Question From whiskeywarden on Audi Exhaust Fix help

My 1995 A6 Quattro wagon the part of the flange that is part of the pipe has rotted so it can not be reused. Instead of replacing the pipe ($$) I thought I would cut the flange off as well as the lip on the other pipe and replace it with an exhaust clamp or sleeve with c-clamps.

Any pros or con thoughts on this?

1995 Audi A6 Quattro Wagon 180k miles2.8L

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The old soup can repair. Wont last but could (maybe) could be fixed by an exhaust specialty shop and put the new right parts welded on. At best it's still a patch job but would/should cost less than the whole parts it should get but don't expect even that to last too long either.

Just my 2 cents and probably others,


Response From Discretesignals

Which flange do you mean? The one between the muffler and resonator or one of the flanges after the catalytic converters?

If the pipe isn't all rotted out, a muffler shop should be able to fix that for you.

Response From whiskeywarden

It is the one right after the cats. Plus there is a cap that has blown apart on the cat that I have to replace.

Response From Discretesignals

I'm looking at the diagram of the stock exhaust. I don't know which cat has the broken flange, but as you stated there is a pipe with two clamps where the resonator pipe and pipe after the converter go together.

If the pipe broke off right at the converter can, your going to have to replace the cat and pipe. You should still swing into a muffler shop and have them evaluate what could be done safely and cost effectively to resolve your problem.

Response From whiskeywarden Top Rated Answer

Here are the attached pictures of my issue

The part needing to be replaced is over $300. In newer models the connections are connected with the exhaust clamps. They are a sleeve with 2 screw downs on the top. (hard to explain) It just seems easy to cut the flange right out and cover the connection with a sleeve. Reduced 69% 314 x 235 (29.48K) Reduced 69% 314 x 235 (32.66K) Reduced 69% 314 x 235 (29.31K)

Response From Discretesignals

Are those pictures of the flange before one of the converters? The pictures are very small and don't render too much detail, but it looks like the studs are broken. You can torch those out and use bolts and nuts to hold the flange together.

Response From whiskeywarden

The replacement part is $345 (it's an Audi). I saw that other model Audi's have these exhaust clamps that slide over the two pipes and just clamps down over it with 2 screws. That part is about $4.00.

I know it is just a patch but the car has 180k and was given to me free.