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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Fuel Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Airtex, AutoBest, Delphi, Denso
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Lincoln Replacement Fuel Pump Parts

We stock Fuel Pump parts for most Lincoln models, including LS, MKS, MKT, MKX, MKZ, Navigator, Town Car.

Airtex
1984 Lincoln Continental Electric Fuel Pump - In-Line 8 Cyl 5.0L Airtex

P311-1D9BCF7    E2000  New

E3ZZ-9350B , SP1121 , PF-5 , E2000 , 152035 , E35Y-9350C , E5TZ-9C407A , E7TZ-9C407A , E4DZ-9350B , E4DZ-9350A , E4ZZ-9350B , E9TZ-9A407A , E7TZ-9A407G , E8TZ-9A407A , 69100 , E7UZ-9C407A , FE0306 , EP7109 , USEP2000 , EP286 , EP2070 , E7TZ-9C407B , P74028 , E7UZ-9C407AA , EB000 , 402-P2000 , GCL601 , E69Z-9C407B , FD0029 , E69Z-9C407A , PF-3 , 951-3000 , EFP329 , PF-4

Qty:
$74.12
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump  In-Line
  • ; This Fuel System requires more than one Fuel Pump. System requires In-Tank Low Pressure Fuel Pump(s) and In-Line High Pressure Fuel Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Inlet Count: 1
    • Inlet Type: Quick Connect
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 40
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 95
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 30
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 70
    • Outlet Count: 1
    • Outlet Size: 5/16
    • Outlet Type: Quick Connect
    • Package Contents: Pump & Kit
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Position: In-Line
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Lincoln Continental In-Line V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Airtex
1992 Lincoln Continental Electric Fuel Pump - In-Tank 6 Cyl 3.8L Airtex

P311-1C5BBC1    E2042  New

F30Y-9H307A , EFP215 , 5CA215 , F0AZ-9H307B , E8DZ-9H307C , E8DZ-9H307D , 69117 , E6DZ-9H307H , FE0316 , E2042 , EP346 , EFP2042 , EB042 , F0DZ-9H307A , 5CA210 , EFP521 , EP287 , P74154 , EP374 , F13Z-9H307A , K88032 , 950-3007 , EP438 , E9DZ-9H307C , F3DZ-9H307E , P74095 , 402-P2042 , EP310 , F1DZ-9H307C , EP274 , F0CZ-9H307A , P74117 , E9OZ-9H307A , FE0104 , E9DZ-9H307D , F0CZ-9A407A , P88 , E6DZ-9H307G , E6DZ-9H307J , E8DZ-9H307B , P193E , USEP2056 , P90085 , F1DZ-9H307B , 152039 , FE0222 , F0VY-9H307B , USEP2042 , P88001 , FE0483 , 526 , EB042C , EFP202 , K88034 , P74111 , P90041 , SP1161 , EP361 , FE0052

Qty:
$41.60
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump  In-Tank
  • ; Plastic Pump Outlet Includes Tank Seal, Wires, Hose, Isolator and Clamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Inlet Count: 1
    • Inlet Type: Strainer
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 35
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 90
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 30
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 80
    • Outlet Count: 1
    • Outlet Size: 5/16
    • Outlet Type: Hose Bead
    • Package Contents: Pump & Kit
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Position: In-Tank
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Lincoln Continental In-Tank V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
Airtex
1984 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump - In-Line 8 Cyl 5.0L Airtex

P311-31971A9    E2182  New

EP186 , FE0303 , E0VZ-9350A , E3AZ-9350B , E1VZ-9350B , EP7236 , EFP328 , EP248 , E3VZ-9350A , 402-P2182 , E6VZ-9350A , 152049 , GCA747 , FE0065 , USEP2182 , E3VY-9350A , K53018 , E0VZ-9350B , P53 , FD0013 , E3AZ-9350A , E1VZ-9350A , PF-8 , P74025 , 4460210 , EFP2182 , E8TZ-9H307GA , SP1165 , E6AZ-9A407AA , EFP186 , E6AZ-9350A , EP369 , E2182 , EB182 , E1AZ-9350A , 25115530 , 69133 , E3VZ-9A407AB , E0VY-9350B

Qty:
$69.82
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump  In-Line
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Inlet Count: 1
    • Inlet Type: Hose Bead
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 100
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 90
    • Outlet Count: 1
    • Outlet Size: 1/2
    • Outlet Type: Hose Barb
    • Package Contents: Pump & Kit
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Position: In-Line
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Position Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Lincoln Town Car OHV In-Line V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Airtex
1982 Lincoln Continental Electric Fuel Pump - In-Line 8 Cyl 5.0L Airtex

P311-31971A9    E2182  New

EP186 , FE0303 , E0VZ-9350A , E3AZ-9350B , E1VZ-9350B , EP7236 , EFP328 , EP248 , E3VZ-9350A , 402-P2182 , E6VZ-9350A , 152049 , GCA747 , FE0065 , USEP2182 , E3VY-9350A , K53018 , E0VZ-9350B , P53 , FD0013 , E3AZ-9350A , E1VZ-9350A , PF-8 , P74025 , 4460210 , EFP2182 , E8TZ-9H307GA , SP1165 , E6AZ-9A407AA , EFP186 , E6AZ-9350A , EP369 , E2182 , EB182 , E1AZ-9350A , 25115530 , 69133 , E3VZ-9A407AB , E0VY-9350B

Qty:
$69.82
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump  In-Line
  • ; This Fuel System requires more than one Fuel Pump. System requires In-Tank Low Pressure Fuel Pump(s) and In-Line High Pressure Fuel Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Inlet Count: 1
    • Inlet Type: Hose Bead
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 100
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 90
    • Outlet Count: 1
    • Outlet Size: 1/2
    • Outlet Type: Hose Barb
    • Package Contents: Pump & Kit
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Position: In-Line
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Position Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Lincoln Continental OHV In-Line V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Airtex
1991 Lincoln Continental Electric Fuel Pump - In-Tank 6 Cyl 3.8L Airtex

P311-5428B9F    E2471  New

3C2Z-9H307DB , F7UZ-9H307EB , EFP2226 , EFP2068 , EB471 , F7UZ-9H307DC , F85Z-9H307BB , XL2Z-9H307AK , P74176 , F8XZ-9H307EB , F8RZ-9H307BC , P76045 , F7UZ-9H307AD , F42Z-9350A , P74153 , XL3Z-9H307AB , P567M , 0K01B-13-350A , F7UZ-9A407FA , EFP2372 , XL1Z-9H307BC , ZZP0-13-350A , 3C2Z-9H307CA , XL3Z-9H307CB , F75Z-9H307AD , 950-0139 , EFP713 , XL3Z-9H307BB , 950-0171 , GCA743 , 69132 , F7UZ-9H307AC , F75Z-9A407FA , F75Z-9A407EA , FE0038 , FE0191 , 152-0926 , 950-0163 , F75Z-9A407BA , GCA767 , XL1Z-9H307CB , FE0319 , EFP2157 , GCA704 , ZZS0-13-350 , USEP2377 , F32Z-9A407A , F75Z-9A407AA , FE0241 , USEP8537 , 67888 , 3C2Z-9H307DA , XC2Z-9H307BB , P74211 , EP460 , P74113 , EP372 , XL3Z-9H307EB , FE0300 , EFP721 , 3C2Z-9H307BC , XL3Z-9H307EA , EFP708A , F75Z-9H307BD , F75Z-9H307KE , 1W1Z-9H307BC , F7UZ-9H307FB , XL3Z-9H307FA , XL2Z-9H307AA , FE0239 , F7RZ-9H307GB , F57Z-9H307J , F7UZ-9A407AB , GCA763 , F43Z-9A407A , P90017 , F87Z-9H307AA , F75Z-9H307MC , XC2Z-9H307BA , USEP2471 , F75Z-9H307LC , ZZP1-13-350 , F4DZ-9H307B , YC2Z-9H307CA , F23Z-9H307A , P74184 , F7UZ-9H307EC , FE0118 , F8XZ-9H307EA , XL3Z-9H307BA , 950-0173 , F7UZ-9H307FC , F8RZ-9H307AE , JLM20529 , FE0364 , F77Z-9H307BA , GCA740 , 951-0008 , F75Z-9H307CC , F7RZ-9H307HB , P76165 , GCA745 , ZZP1-13-350A , F68Z-9A407B , F5AZ-9H407AA , GCA712 , FE0317 , GCA746 , F87Z-9H307BA , 2C2Z-9H307CA , F75Z-9A407GA , P74157 , 17042-7B025 , P74173 , YC2Z-9H307AA , 2C2Z-9H307CB , 1F22-13-350 , YL5Z-9H307FC , XL5Z-9H307DA , F8XZ-9H307DA , F7UZ-9H307CC , EFP703 , GCA3379 , F85Z-9H307AA , XW1Z-9H307AB , FE0301 , EP479 , ZZS2-13-350 , EFP703A , FE0240 , YL5Z-9H307FD , F57Z-9H307JA , SP2227H , USEP2372 , F75Z-9H307AC , F7UZ-9A407EA , EFP716 , XW1Z-9H307AG , XL3Z-9H307FB , F5RZ-9350A , USEP2375 , GCA741 , P74207 , 69134 , EFP2374 , YL5Z-9H307DD , F75Z-9H307MD , F75Z-9A407HA , XW1Z-9H307AF , F7UZ-9H307BD , YC2Z-9H307BA , YL5Z-9H307FA , XC2Z-9H307AA , KL12-13-350G , F75Z-9H307KC , 66085 , P74204 , P74170 , C2N3866 , F7AZ-9350AA , EFP715 , YL5Z-9H307DC , EFP2373 , F7RZ-9H307GA , USEP2379 , P74177 , JLM20756 , GCA739 , P74150 , EP394 , KLG4-13-350A , P74206 , XL5Z-9H307DB , 950-0165 , P74205 , 17040-3S510 , P2046 , P196E , F87Z-9H307BB , F7RZ-9350BA , XL1Z-9H307AC , XL1Z-9H307AB , EFP712 , 3C2Z-9H307AA , P76101 , 950-0170 , 951-0016 , 5CA231 , P144E , 17040-S3M-A00 , FE0244 , XL3Z-9H307CA , F65Z-9A407AB , YL5Z-9H307EA , EFP705 , 3C2Z-9H307BA , EFP714 , P304H , F87Z-9H307AB , GCA711 , GCA713 , XF5Z-9H307AC , YL5Z-9H307ED , P123 , F8RZ-9H307BD , F8RZ-9H307AB , 950-0172 , F75Z-9H307LE , F2AZ-9A407A , GCA720 , USEP2374 , P74178 , GCA717 , 950-0136 , XL2Z-9H307AJ , 31111-26000 , ZZR1-13-350 , P212E , F2VY-9A407AA , P2045S , F32Z-9H307CC , XL3Z-9H307DA , F4DZ-9H307A , 950-0143 , F7UZ-9H307CD , P192E , FE0320 , F4PZ-9H307AA , 69771 , EFP720 , FE0321 , YL5Z-9H307EF , 1W1Z-9H307BG , F7UZ-9A407BB , 1F21-13-350A , FE0296 , F65Z-9A407AA , 1F21-13-350 , F4DZ-9H307BB , F58Z-9A407C , F7UZ-9H307DB , GCA721 , YL5Z-9H307DA , P74172 , F8RZ-9H307AC , P3148 , FE0304 , 69128 , TCA708 , P163E , XL3Z-9H307AA , P74203 , EFP2376 , PFS-96 , F7AZ-9H307AE , F7RZ-9H307HA , GCA714 , ZZP0-13-350 , XL1Z-9H307BB , ZZR1-13-350A , GCA709 , EB471C , F75Z-9H307AA , EFP708 , FE0377 , GCA752 , SP2024H , F7AZ-9350AB , EFP2379 , F8PZ-9350HA , F7AZ-9H307AB , FE0295 , F8RZ-9350AA , F75Z-9A407DA , F85Z-9H307AB , F57Z-9H307DA , ZZR0-13-350A , 1F22-13-350A , FE0107 , XC2Z-9H307CA , USEP2378 , F7UZ-9A407DA , EFP8537 , 950-0138 , GCA705 , P74175 , F75Z-9H307ME , 17042-5M800 , P74183 , P74189 , 152017 , TCA721 , GCA742 , 0K01B-13-350 , P76042 , F4DZ-9H307AA , 69131 , F5AZ-9A407AA , FE0297 , YL5Z-9H307EC , F8RZ-9H307BB , FE0299 , KLG4-13-35XB , P74139 , 950-0137 , 3C2Z-9H307AB , F7PZ-9H307BE , F4DZ-9H307CA , F75Z-9H307BC , F7PZ-9H307BA , 17040-3S500 , F5AZ-9350A , 2C2Z-9H307AA , 950-0169 , SP2188H , P161E , XL1Z-9H307BA , FE0294 , SP1113 , FE0479 , EFP711 , 1W1Z-9H307BD , KL12-13-350H , P74174 , F75Z-9H307CD , EP370 , E2471 , XL5Z-9H307EA , P88004 , GCA716 , P74212 , F6RZ-9H307AB , USEP2157 , FE0298 , F75Z-9H307LD , EP443 , F6RZ-9350AA , XL1Z-9H307CA , XL5Z-9H307FB , F85Z-9H307CB , F7UZ-9A407CB , XL1Z-9H307CC , EFP231 , EFP2319 , FE0242 , EFP2380 , FE0150 , F87Z-9H307CA , 2C2Z-9H307AB , XL1Z-9H307AA , F85Z-9H307CA , F8RZ-9H307BE , 402-P2471 , 950-0197 , F67Z-9H307CA , F65Z-9A407BA , YC2Z-9H307BB , FE0160 , GCA703 , F43Z-9A407AA , XL5Z-9H307FA , FE0172 , F85Z-9H307BA , XL5Z-9H307EB , EFP2158 , F75Z-9H307KD , 3C2Z-9H307CB , F7UZ-9H307BC , EFP717 , ZZR0-13-350 , PFB-10 , F8AZ-9H307AC , F2VY-9A407A , F4PZ-9H307A , F52Z-9A407AB , XF5Z-9H307AD , P3147 , 950-0140 , P90003 , F57Z-9H307D , 3C2Z-9H307BD , XL3Z-9H307DB , F52Z-9350AA , P3150 , F7PZ-9H307BD

Qty:
$53.83
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump  In-Tank
  • ; Brass Pump Outlet Includes Tank Seals, Wiring Harness: Isolator, Terminals, Hose and Clamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Inlet Count: 1
    • Inlet Type: Strainer
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 120
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 40
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 70
    • Outlet Count: 1
    • Outlet Size: 5/16
    • Outlet Type: Hose Bead
    • Package Contents: Pump & Kit
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Position: In-Tank
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Lincoln Continental In-Tank V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
Airtex
1984 Lincoln Continental Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L Airtex

P311-4A93782    E2484  New

E5RY-9H307A , E0TZ-9350B , 402-P2484 , EP297 , E7UZ-9H307A , FE0120 , E3TZ-9350C , P9 , E3SZ-9350A , E7TZ-9H307F , E0UZ-9350C , EP401 , E7TZ-9H307G , E9UZ-9H307A , E0BZ-9350A , E8TZ-9H307G , E0ZZ-9350A , E6UZ-9H307F , USEP2484 , E2484 , E0VY-9350A , P90022 , P74096 , E4LY-9H307A , P90076 , E0UZ-9350D , E35Y-9350A , P103 , E5TZ-9H307F , EP398 , USEP2031 , P89 , USEP2025 , 69111 , FE0313 , E5TZ-9H307L , FE0127 , EFP2025 , EB484 , E3SZ-9350D , E3UZ-9350A , SP1152 , E5TZ-9H307E , E5TZ-9H307A , E3SZ-9350C , E8UZ-9H307A , FE0124 , E3ZZ-9350A , E0TZ-9350D , E0TZ-9350C , E7TZ-9H307H , USEP2032 , EFP2031

Qty:
$43.14
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; This Fuel System requires more than one Fuel Pump. System requires In-Tank Low Pressure Fuel Pump(s) and In-Line High Pressure Fuel Pump Includes Two Tank Seals, Hose, Strainer and Clamps
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Inlet Count: 1
    • Inlet Type: Strainer
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 8
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 5
    • Outlet Count: 1
    • Outlet Size: .317
    • Outlet Type: Hose Connect
    • Package Contents: Pump & Kit
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Lincoln Continental V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
AutoBest
1981 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L AutoBest

P311-55866E7    F1193  New

Qty:
$60.08
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F303S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 3/4-16 UNF-2A
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.38100000000000001
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery SubType Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Lincoln Town Car TBI V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
AutoBest
1984 Lincoln Mark VII Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L AutoBest

P311-1C8A3F9    F1011  New

Qty:
$50.39
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; Externally Mounted High Pressure Pump Two Fuel Pumps May Be Required, One Mounted In-Tank Pump and One Mounted Externally
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.52400000000000002
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.311
    • Outlet Type: Quick Connect
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Lincoln Mark VII V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
AutoBest
1992 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L AutoBest

P311-5938AC4    F1055  New

Qty:
$24.09
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F212S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.89
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.36199999999999999
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
AutoBest
2000 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/Wide Electrical Terminals Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F276S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
AutoBest
1993 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/Thin Electrical Terminals Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F274S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
AutoBest
1998 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/Thin Electrical Terminals Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F276S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
AutoBest
1993 Lincoln Town Car Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/Wide Electrical Terminals Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F274S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
AutoBest
1998 Lincoln Navigator Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.4L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/Thin Electrical Terminals Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F299S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Lincoln Navigator 4WD V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
AutoBest
1998 Lincoln Navigator Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.4L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/Wide Electrical Terminals Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F299S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Lincoln Navigator RWD V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
AutoBest
1989 Lincoln Continental Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.8L AutoBest

P311-4725815    F1482  New

Qty:
$28.15
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; w/plastic pump outlet tube Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F291S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Lincoln Continental V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
AutoBest
1986 Lincoln Mark VII Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L AutoBest

P311-5938AC4    F1055  New

Qty:
$24.09
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F242S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.89
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.36199999999999999
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Version Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Lincoln Mark VII HO V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
AutoBest
1980 Lincoln Mark VI Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L AutoBest

P311-55866E7    F1193  New

Qty:
$60.08
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • From 2/80; Includes Tank Seal Strainer required to validate the warranty: F303S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 3/4-16 UNF-2A
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.38100000000000001
    • Outlet Type: Hose
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery SubType Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Lincoln Mark VI TBI V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Delphi
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII Electric Fuel Pump - In-Tank Delphi

P311-27C63DA    FE0188  New

25177385 , P95105E , P74150 , A34006 , CFE0188 , EP476 , F3LY 9A407-A , F3LU 9A407-AA , 953-4059 , F3LY 9A407-B , P74667H , 67004 , P298H , RE0124F , 69128 , 951-0009 , SP2084H , PFB-31 , AFS0124F , F3LU 9A407-AB , P75042H , E8962 , GCA706 , F3LY 9A407-BA , E2070H

Qty:
$123.82
Delphi Electric Fuel Pump  In-Tank
  • Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; Fuel tank contamination is the leading cause of premature fuel pump failure. To reduce risk of contaminating the replacement pump, Delphi recommends cleaning the fuel tank before installing a new pump. Use of fuel tank cleaning kit FC01 is recommended.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Average Current Draw: 10
    • Average Flow Rating: 37
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Fuel Type: Gas
    • Inlet Type: Strainer
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • Maximum Pressure: 80.0
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 0.375
    • Outlet Type: Hose
    • Package Contents: Electric Fuel Pump, Hose Piece, Isolator, Pall Nut, Spacer, (2) Hose Clamps, Screw, Seal, Instruction Sheet
    • Strainer Included: No
    • System Pressure: 45 Psi
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Pin
    • Voltage: 12
    • Wiring Harness Included: No
  • 100 years of OE experience, supplier to the world's top automakers, OE Heritage and knowledge built into every aftermarket part, comprehensive portfolio for a wide range of vehicles and model years.
Brand: Delphi
Position: In-Tank
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1995 - Lincoln Mark VIII LSC In-Tank
Denso
2001 Lincoln Navigator Electric Fuel Pump 8 Cyl 5.4L Denso - New Electric Fuel Pump

P311-58E06F4    951-0008  New

XW1Z 9H307-AG , 69496 , XF1Z 9H307-AB , F7DZ 9H307-AB , SP1113 , MR993061 , 1F21-13-350C , MN150579 , SP1367 , 69613 , F75Z 9H307-ME , F8ZZ 9H307-DF , MR508283 , E2471 , 3C2Z 9H307-BD , 3C2Z 9H307-DB , SP1235 , F7DZ 9H307-LB , 69542 , ZZR1-13-350B , 67919 , E2446 , 69132 , SP1173 , 69544 , F7UZ 9H307-BD , MR990884 , F78Z 9H307-BB , XL5Z 9H307-EG , E2333 , JLM12159 , E2284 , 31123-25000 , 1760A041 , P72192 , XL3Z 9H307-EB , YL5Z 9H307-DG , YF1Z 9H307-BD , 69134 , FE0483 , 2L2Z 9H307-HD , 31110-26330 , 31110-26755DS , FE0482 , 5003 860AB , E8533 , MR990818 , XF2Z 9H307-BB , F6PZ 9A407-EB , XF1Z 9H307-DB , GY01-13-35ZA , XS4Z 9H307-AB , F7UZ 9H307-DC , XL1Z 9H307-DC , 3C2Z 9H307-AB , F75Z 9H307-AD , P74189 , YC2Z 9H307-BB , 1760A294 , 8-97163-248-1 , F8CZ 9H307-AK , 4762 964 , F7AZ 9H307-AE , 31110-26510 , E2518 , XC2Z 9H307-BB , 17042-5Y700 , YL5Z 9H307-EG , JLM20529 , SP1343 , 31110-26500DS , E2490 , XL3Z 9H307-AB , MR993340 , XL2Z 9H307-A , XL1Z 9H307-BC , FE0216 , 5003 861AB , YL5Z 9H307-FG , P76513 , GY01-13-350A , SP1197 , P88016 , FE0368 , F75Z 9H307-LE , E2254 , 31110-26355DS , F7PZ 9A407-CB , MN106213 , YF1Z 9H307-AC , FE0302 , F75Z 9H307-KE , SP1353 , XL5Z 9H307-FH , XL5Z 9H307-DH , F8DZ 9H307-AD , E8456 , FE0479 , F7UZ 9H307-CD , 69548 , MR990883 , 69128 , F75Z 9H307-CD , F7PZ 9H307-BE , SP1119 , 1W1Z 9H307-BG , 1760 A049 , E2521 , E2303 , MN161722 , F75Z 9H307-BD , SP1285 , XL1Z 9H307-AC , XL3Z 9H307-BB , XL3Z 9H307-FB , 69131 , 3L2Z 9H307-FC , 1760A049 , F8ZZ 9H307-AE , FE0415 , 3C2Z 9H307-CB , XL1Z 9H307-FC , JLM12204 , XL3Z 9H307-DB , 5003 869AA , 1760A177 , AJ51-13-35Z , F8DZ 9H307-HC , E8335 , 2C2Z 9H307-AB , F6PZ 9H307-BB , AJ51-13-350 , XL1Z 9H307-CC , FE0351 , 2C6Z 9H307-AB , FE0239 , XS2Z 9H307-CA , SP1126 , SP1196 , XL3Z 9H307-CB

Qty:
$81.67
Denso Electric Fuel Pump
  • Electric Fuel Pump
  • ; DENSO Fuel Pump
  • New Electric Fuel Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 11.000
    • Internal Or External: Internal
    • Mounting Bracket Included: No
    • Mounting Hardware Included: Yes
    • Negative Ground: Yes
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Regulator Included: No
    • Seal And Lock Ring Included: No
    • Strainer Included: No
    • Voltage: 12
  • Electric Fuel Pump
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Lincoln Navigator R V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -

Latest Lincoln Repair and Fuel Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

95 lincoln continental

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From Guest on 95 lincoln continental

95 lincoln continental has good power to fuel pump driver module but no power out to fuel pump. Is the driver module bad or could something else cause this?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check relays. I think they are marked underhood for that car. Use the A/C relay which should be the same part # but check. If that's it buy a couple new ones, cheap even at Ford dealers, - T

Response From Guest

there is no relay for fuel pump in power distribution box only 20 amp fuse which is good. Is there a relay somewhere else?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

The fuel pump relay is incorporated in the constant control relay module; you’ll find it on the upper radiator support. It houses a number of relays and is serviced as a unit; no you can’t open it and change anyone of the relays.
But if you have power on the white wire at the fuel pump module (in the trunk), during cranking the relay is ok. If you do not have power on this white wire don’t run out and buy a new constant control module it may not be receiving a signal to energize the fuel pump relay.
Also check the inertia switch that it hasn’t been tripped, if it has tripped the reset button on the top of the switch will have a bit of resistance when you try and push it down, once reset the button moves quite freely. You’ll find it on the left side of the trunk. It should have a black/red and white wires to it; the black/red is the feed from the fuel pump relay. Both should have power on them during cranking.
Dan.

Response From Guest

inertia switch good. white wire into driver module hot when cranking. pink/black wire from module to fuel pump dead when cranking, is driver module bad?

Response From DanD

I can’t say for sure but it kind of sounds like you’re on the right track.
Will the fuel pump and engine run if you would jumper the pink/black with power? That’s just to make sure that the ignition is functioning and that the computer is authorizing pump, again this is just thinking out loud, I’m not at work right now and don’t have access to any repair procedures.
Dan.

Response From Guest

I did use a jumper wire between the white and pink/black wire and the fuel pump did run and the car did start, it ran a little rough though. I plan on replacing the driver module hopefully it will work. Thanks for your help

Response From DanD

Good luck
Dan.

Tom needs some help from you guys 83 Lincoln Mark

Showing 2 out of 27 Posts | Show 25 Hidden Posts
Question From Tom Greenleaf on Tom needs some help from you guys 83 Lincoln Mark

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?post=26987;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread

Hey guys. I'm stuck with something that probably should be easy if anyone ran across this thread above. It's already a read and I can't think of any resource to know what to check next of this Lincoln that runs fine when primed and wont' restart ever warm or cold. Never happened to me in zillions of similar vehicles so I'm lost. 83 Lincoln Mark 5.0 TBI type.

Any ideas as to what to suggest for this guy?

TIA from Tom,

T

Response From dave284

The ECC controls the priming...and if he replaced it, he had to to use the prom pak from the old one which contain the info and trying to remember.....I think it had to be reprogrammed at the dealership...not sure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks a million. You know I feel like a jerk that I just don't know right off the top of my head. As said it just plain NEVER happened like this to ANY of the countless ones along the way. I didn't even know of the EEC controlling the priming or of a dealer reset. That must be it as if you read the thread about everything else has been ruled out

Hope the guy is following here too - I'll go back and check and mark this thread to continue on.

While here - Free classic and antique service info available at 860-928-7614 --- Steve at Baker's Auto, CT. It's old enough that dealers may be of no help for parts or procedures for this when we can target the problem.

Thanks,

Tom

Response From dave284

Tom, those single injectors/ and duals TBI always gave me a run for the money when they had a fuel problem and no OBII puter.....its always a headache when everythings been replaced and still the problem remains.I'll try to find a diagram in the mean while.LOL.

Response From buckhunter

Hi Tom, I want on the other site, well it seems to have a few of us stumped, The one guy said the EEC tells it when to spray the gas in the throttle body, I was thinking of going for one Tuesday, but he said it has to be reset by the dealer, well I can`t take it to them if it will not run, what did the other guy mean when he said he had trouble with the duals TBI ?? I don`t know what that was, well mabie the other guy that said he was going to do some checking will find something, HEY ARE WE HAVING FUN YET!!! LOL

Response From DanD

Unless I missed it I haven’t read anywhere that the fuel pump is still running during cranking or what the actual fuel pressure is during cranking?

Here’s a quote from Mitchell repair; I’ve added the bracketing.

When the ignition is in the “ON” position, The Electronic Engine Control (EEC) (computer) power relay is activated. Power is provided to the fuel pump relay and to a timer within the Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) (just a different acronym for the computer).The fuel pump runs at a reduced voltage through a resistor wire and pump relay.
If the ignition switch is NOT turned to the “START” position within one second, the ECA timing device will deactivate the fuel pump relay which in turn de-energizes the fuel pump.
When the ignition switch is turned to the “START” position, the starter relay provides power to the fuel pump, by-passing the fuel pump relay. Full system voltage is provided to the fuel pump during cranking modes.
With the ignition switch in the “ON” position and engine running, power to the fuel pump is again supplied through the fuel pump relay and resistance wire. The ECA senses engine RPM and deactivates the fuel pump relay when engine stops or engine speed fall below 120RPM.


Is the fuel pump running during cranking?


Not to disagree with Dave but I believe back then, there was no such a thing as reprogramming a Ford computer or just buying/switching the calibration pack that is mounted inside the computer; they where sold as a complete replacement units. If you didn’t have an accurate ECA number when ordering a replacement assembly and installed the wrong one; you just opened up the biggest shit storm, trying to figure out why the vehicle wasn’t running properly if it ran at all.

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks again all. I think I know what this is now. It's that "starter" relay and I don't have a clue which one it is or where. I can go look at 88 and 89 TC and it might be similar. Best bet with the read before this was it doesn't get adequate fuel during crank and loses it's pressure instantly when key is not enabling fuel pump even though all the items that might do that have been replaced.

DAN - ANYONE - DO YOU KNOW THE COLOR OF THE STARTER RELAY?? It would be the color on the skirt and or the plug even in an 83. All these years when something rarely went wrong I would see damage on wiring - hop over to get-your-own junk parts and cut off the whole area of damaged wires - solder them in color by color with a known good relay and life was good It worked as new and I never researched why or what might have caused it to begin with - they lasted the rest of the life of the car so just didn't need to know.

These (mostly the Town Cars, CVs and GMs) were around my shop like litter. Not any Marks since the 70s.

Came within an inch of getting a mint 82 Mark in Fla with just 50k in '93 and would own it now but I'd have to fly back to get it as I had driven there alone It would have been cute as it was the same colors as the 88 signature I still have as new and stored now - damn!

Dan - I'm about sure you're right that there was no computer programming or resetting in these. Match #s or the plug colors was the deal. Again - none ever needed replacing.

"buckhunter" Your answer is in the info already here - I'm close to certain. If that computer has been changed it may be hard to know now if the exact right one was used. My guess from knowing Ford antics is that there would have been a choice of just two. Somewhere in those years things were different for cars to be sold to California and later, don't know what year all cars sold to the US met both CA and MA (we have to be a pain too) standards for emissions which was the pill of a couple decades. Stickers underhood would tell you if it met all standards or not if you can still read it,

T

Response From brbettge

Tom, the "starter relay" on this one is the same old ford starter relay and is on the right fender apron. it doesn't have anything to do with fuel. you must be talking about something else? The fuel pump relay is at the rear of the right fender apron. the closest one to the front of the car. the one next to it is the EEC power relay and i have had some problem in the past with it causing a no fuel situation. i'm not sure if the low fuel warning module is even in the circuit but it is located on the instrument panel center support brace.. sorry i'm so late getting in on this one but was out this morning. rick

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks Rick for checking in on this. I wasn't thinking of the starter solonoid itself if that's the relay on the fender you were mentioning. That would be an easy diag. The biggest problem is as always with the on-line stuff is I'm not there just scoping out what is where for this model. The Marks did place somethings in different places. If I recall the cube relay for EEC has a brown skirt but doesn't shut down fuel - not sure on that either. If the design is to power the fuel pump differently just for the moment of cranking it wouldn't even be noticed so much in some of my own as they hold fuel pressure and tend to start so fast the a fast spinning engine from just the starter and a let go would leave it coasting another rev and probably start and run.

I wish I was there just testing what power gets to what when and jumping fuel pump directly and see what happens.

I'm heading out to fix a lock cylinder on a storm door for the day and probably screw that up the way things are going.

Thanks for the input,

Tom

Response From brbettge

hey Tom, yeah the eec relay is the brown skirt and it will shut down fuel...either the injector pulse or the fuel pump relay (the green skirt) i don't remember which. i seem to remember a problem just like this many years ago and it ended up either being the eec relay or something in the tank on the pump assembly..can't remember which..getting too dadgummed old!!! i hate it! i do have a repair manual library from 1949 thru 1992 american and some stuff on foriegn thru 1993(wiring diagrams). all of the manuals are mitchell(including component locator-1983 to 1989) except for the really old stuff which is a mix of the old motors and some chilton(all pro stuff not k-mart or zone). just thought i'd let you know that info on the books in case you might could use something out of one of them sometime. i usually get to check my email once a day on average so give me a bit to get back if you or any of the others need something. i really do enjoy trying to help these people even tho my thoughts may not be right on the money sometimes. i've been pretty much out of it for a few years now but; like most old mechanics; just can't seem to get it out of my head! I occasionally do some stuff on justanswer.com but it's a charge place with what seems to be a bunch of flat-raters jockying for jobs..well, yeah, i was a good flat-rater in my day; then i caught a bad case of that OLD syndrome...not to mention i just plain got too old to keep up with the kids. any way, if i can be of some help anywhere, let me know, i'm at your service....rick

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks Rick,

Over all the years with these suckers it was alway relays at fault. So much so that I put an extra in every glove box of every one that still exists and showed folks how to swap them. I can't tell you how many times someone would call stuck on the road and while talking to them just tell them to WHACK the right ones or swap the A/C one for fuel or EEC when possible. You can cut the skirts off the originals and they would work - all the same as far as I can tell - just color coded for identification.

The worst was just one car that needed two at the exact same time - go figure that out??!! Another ran funky and the wires were icky at the relay so I cut them all off and got a pig tail out of a wreck to solder the new plug in and that was it - nothing else ever.

Time flew and I'm the only one left with this vintage of Fords. Didn't like them when new as each decade change cars seemed cheaper and missing more and more basics - like drip edges, vent windows REAL BUMPERS and usable trunks. 89 was the last of the vent windows and I like those.

Spring has sprung and I'm using one now instead of a 3/4 Chev truck with rides like a coal cart.

See you out there,

T

Response From buckhunter

Hi Tom, & Others, Boy Tom You bring out the big guns wow LOL, ok I was away a few days for work, I want out today and I changed the brown relay as brbettge, had said, and by God it started, yes it did about five times, then right back to the no start, I changed it again and it started again a couple times, then no start, is there a way I can test the relay to see if it is being burned out? I am going to give the jumping of the fuel pump a try Wenesday, So for now if you know how I can test the relay to see if they are being shorted out, that would be a grate help, I do believe you guys are on the right track, Thanks, Be Safe, Bill

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Sounds like a bad connection....... Check your grounds.... run a redundant ground to the fuel pump circuit @ the pump... see if that helps

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bill - Ayup - these are the big guns! As "guest" suggested, redundant grounds can only help when they show to solve a problem.

Seems you've found the right spot - now how to know why it doesn't last?? Not sure how to test a relay except playing with a test light and watch which prongs are empowered that DO make things work and see that they do and when or if one doesn't I would blame the relay again - new or not.

I've had quite a go around with these relays. Have a gallon Zip-Lock bag full of known good used ones (OE) from known running cars when wrecked at a bone yard that let's me go wild!

One of my own (88 TC) got four replacements in about 10 miles of use over a few years - that one in storage and just gets excercised now and then. ((Kept as new))

I've taken these relays apart (not designed to) to see what clicks in there. They are what I expected - points that close with mini electro-magnets. Showing my age now these "points" when used for ignition were intended to be aligned (bet I have the only point alignment tool left in the world!) and with ignition points would show when used a while that they were perfect or not. Same thing must exist with these relays but you can't mess with them. History has shown with the relays - good ones are good indefinately and bad ones show right up.

When you get one to work several times and then it fails it would be nice to see which wires light up when working and which one quits when it fails. Many times a good hard whack on these relays with the plastic end of a screwdriver can get you home if stuck!

Dan mentioned the diagrams were not so special for these cars. I'm hoping wire colors are consistant thru the vintage of these and can just go see which ones light up on one of my own if you wish - three of these similar cars here right now - all run well, all known from new!

We'll get this fixed for good!

T

Response From buckhunter

Hi Tom, well still no start, I tryed to jump the pump as told and well I think I shorted something out, I told you I had fuel to the throttle body, well after the jump try I now have no fuel there, also the wires from the green box for the fuel pump is hot all the time BUT none of the wires out of it have power, key on or off,I changed the box six times,still the same,also now after the jump try, I checked the power at that box in the trunk, well I have no power tere anymore eather, any idea what I may have blew out??, I am at my witts end, I want so bad to get this on the road as show cause it looks new, I don`t know, Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Where did you jump it? Do you mean the wiring that plugs into the relay are hot as in temperature? I've seen those short to each other before without provocation. I don't know what to say except to follow wires now for a dead short,

T

Response From buckhunter

Sorry Tom, I did not do a very good job with that last post, as amatter of fact it was pretty bad, by hot I meant no power, The fat pink wire with the blk ck marks on it was with power all the time, key on or off, but with the green bottom sensor in place, the three other wires have no power key on or off, as I said I tried like five other sensors and the same thing, no power to any of the other wires at the green sensor.when I touch one of the other wires with a power wire,I can hear the sensor click, but no power two the other three wires , see there is four wires on the plug that the green sensor plugs into, the pink with blk ck marks, a red, a orange one and one white or light gray, the pink has power key on or off, the other three has no power at anytime, I hope I did better this time, sorry.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry for late response. Arggh! Something jumped and now a new problem. Who knows now? This just complicates it further.

May take a real original wiring diagram to chase them down and verify one by one for the circuit. Whatever happened now even if fixed still leaves the original problem - arggh - agian!!

It's enough of a problem I'd buy the specific AllData info for just this car as the $25 bucks looks cheap right now with the headaches at hand,

T

Response From buckhunter

Tom I would be happy to get the book if you can tell me where, heck 25 bucks is a drop in the bucket with what I have in it,LOL,but I keep seeing it goind down the road on a sunny Sunday day,LOL

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.alldata.com/ That's the home page from AllData. From there you can decide what you want - nothing free but not expensive unless you want to add more and more cars. If I recall it's $25 bucks for one car for one year and they used to let you look at a sample car and search out something whacked and it was pretty good - I tried that now quite a while ago.

We barely notice them but look at the ads that are at the bottom of the page here - they actually pay for rotating ads there and the last time I mentioned AllData - they had a clickable spot. Funny, they are Google selected no doubt based on subject line and it knows you basic locale thru an IP address.

We wish you luck with this. The cars are a lot of fun and not the pigs most think they are. May have said - I have three now (80s Lincolns)and would snap up another in a heartbeat and would love one for a Winter car again - already wasted two to rust - not mechanicals.

Let us know how you make out and try to send some pics if you can,

Tom

Response From buckhunter

Hey Tom, go to E-Bay and put in this #, hope you have a good heart,LOL it is near you also,in item # put, 330243342217, WOW,after that one try # 130229370780

Response From Tom Greenleaf


79 Givenchi w 104k $5900 bucks is pretty good. The 78 stated 16k - was showing 216k by condition of front seat. These were actually the first DOWNSIZE of the Marks! The late 50s had a Mark II that had a dry weight of over 3 tons I think!

These were the economy jobs and then by 1983 they really shrunk to the Panther platform which magically kept the ride and doubled the gas mileage at the cost of no power which none had in the 80s. When the 80s ones came out new I called them "Granadas" because they looked so small! I started to like the smaller car as the 60 and 70s monsters were hard to find a big enough parking spot anywhere you went!

Fun cars,

T

Response From buckhunter

OK Tom THANK YOU SO MUCH, and I will let you know, you guys are heaven sent, God BLESS.

Response From DanD

The wiring diagrams I have for these years of Fords have to be the worse ever printed. Inconsistent; from page to page and just a jumbled mess! I tried looking for this by-pass circuit at the starter relay but can’t seem to find it anywhere?
What can be tried on the vehicle; is to jumper the fuel pump for test purposes having it run all the time and then try starting the engine?
If it starts then we at least know we’re heading in the right direction?

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

ditto: I'd be trying that trick and if that solved it I'd probably make up a way to power it during cranking only, separately and save the hair loss of finding the exact break in something somewhere. Fraud - ooooh - Ford rather had a way of routing wiring down behind engine where you couldn't get at anything and I've just run same color wire from where it started good on passenger's side and go another way to where it should have had continuity on the driver's side rather than paw thru the whole mess that goes thru that split plastic hose that makes it look neat but you just can't really get back there so easy.

I hear you with the old even pro edition manuals. Big bucks and not very helpful. I stopped buying them when so many times they just said "refer to underhood decals" - nice!

I've winged it all those years with these with just test light, continuity tests, and basic understanding of what should be happening when. These never were so over computered to be a real headache.

Thanks again. You can guess the keen interest in this was MINE and hopefully help out "buckhunter" in the mean time.

Still fighting with Momma's 96 Burp with pwr locks nonsense. Including me, FIVE seriously qualified techs haven't stumbled on an intermittent problem which works with anything attemped or replaced and recurrs the next day - go figure?!!

T

Response From dave284

Buck, and others, I didn't mean to confuse anyone....I was referring to the type of throttle bodies in my past repairs I had...most of them had the same problem with not priming first, and I remember having to have the dealer to reprogram the computer on two of them....thats been some time ago, Dan has the info...but I still believe the problem is in the puter,.... just gonna have to start testing procedures...btw couldn't find them damm diagrams, sorry.LOL.

Response From DrElectrics

I have never heard of this. I asked around the shop and no one has ever heard of it either. I will do some googling and see what I can come up with.

fuel pump failure no power from switch

Showing 2 out of 34 Posts | Show 32 Hidden Posts
Question From rnorew on fuel pump failure no power from switch

Car is 1988 lincoln towncar 5.0 L
Car stalled while driving. Removed fuel filter and tested fuel pump to see if fuel was pumping before replacing with new filter. No gas being pumped. Thought that issue was either the fuel pump relay or the pump. Replaced relay and pump but still no fuel being pumped. No voltage was detected at the fuel pump. So went up stream to pump relay and found that ecc relay and fuel pump relay were working. While testing relay realized that 12 volts that is supposed to come from ignition switch was not there. I do not have ignition switch diagram to test switch. Is there a diagram that shows what pin on ignition switch should provide power to fuel relay? IS there a test for the ignition switch? Do not want to replace unless prove that it is failed. IS there anything like a fusable link between the switch and the relay?

Response From Hammer Time

The fuel pump relay is powered by the EEC relay, not the ignition switch.

Where are you not finding power? What color wire?

Response From rnorew

I used this link to test the EEC and pump relay link deleted ......... not allowed. The color of the wire is yellow and referred to in this description as circuit 4. there are three wires in the relay on one row and a two in the other row. Only one of those two pins have a wire attached. that is the wire that I expect to get 12 volts when I turn the key to run position. If this description os wrong can you point me to a correct description - thanks

Response From Hammer Time

You are not allowed to post links here other than to your own pictures or videos.

Those instructions are all wrong.

That yellow wire goes to a fusible link, probably attached to the starter solenoid at the battery and should be powered at all times.

Response From rnorew

Thanks Sorry will not post links any more. Is there a way to find out if a fusable link has failed? Will it be melted or how do you test them besides stripping the wire?

Response From Hammer Time

Pull on it and see if it stretches.

Response From rnorew

Thanks for the help thus far. I do not see any of the fusable linkes that are clearly failed and none seem to streach. I cannot read the wiring diagram. Everything is too small. I am going to stop at an auto part tomorrow to see if they have a tool to test the fusable links.

Response From Hammer Time

Tool to check fusible links? It's called a test light.

If you don't have power on the yellow wire, it has to be burnt out or disconnected. It's a straight shot from there to the power source which is likely the solenoid. It will be a blue link.

Response From rnorew

Hammer my confusion is there is a yellow wire that connects to the relay connector at one end. It then goes into a wiring harness. Out of the other endof the wiring harness there are three yelow wires that all go through a dark blue fusible link to the solonoid on the fender. Each of those fusible links has thick insulation on both ends of the link. I can confirm that there is power at the solonoid. I am not sure which of the three wires would be the source at the solonoid. Two of the wires are 16 guage links and 1 is a 18 guage link. By looking at the wire going into the relay connector, I would guess it is 16 guage so it should be one of the two 16 guage links. Can I assume that the yellow wire at one end of the wiring harness will come out of the wiring harness as a yellow wire of the same guage. I would like to see if there is power on the yellow wire between the fusible link and the relay connector but my voltmeter cannot pierce the insulation. IN order to use a test light do you pierce the insulation with a pin or something allowing you to use a test light over the fusible link? Goes your test light have a sharp lead that will pierce the insulation of the yellow wire? These fusible links have no metal that can be used for a test light.

Response From Hammer Time

The link itself is only a few inches long and you should be able to pierce the wire after the fusible portion where it leaves the solenoid. If you don't know which one, just check them all. If they all check good, then that wire has to be broken somewhere in between.

Response From rnorew

I tested the switch inthe trunk and it was fine. I eventually found that is a connector onthe solonoid that had two wires.one of those two wires had a fusible link that had two outputs. The wire that ran from the connector itself to the link that had two outputs had melted. Once i crimped that back together I had power at the pump relay.
I have not put everything back together yet but I have not doubt that it will work. I also went to the junk yard to get that section of wire that burnt.

Thaks you so very much for the help - I was really thankful that you answered my posts. thanks again. It might take a week or so but I wil get back on after I get everything put back together and running.

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear you found the problem.

I will leave the question open for the time being but we eventually want to lock it as fixed to keep the spammers out.

Response From rnorew

I finally have everything put back together and I drive it to work today (10 miles each way. I put 5 gallons in after I installed everything and put in 10 more gallons on the way to work. The car worked fine going to work. On the way home( about 4 miles form work the car hesitated and died again. exact same symptoms. While I was waiting for AAA I looked at the wire at the solonoid and that was not burnt. I am going to use my meter to test the power at the relay again and the gas pressure but I suspect that the pump died again. Is that at all normal?

Response From Hammer Time

Not surprising. Something burned the link out in the first place.

Response From rnorew

I pulled the pump again and this time I used a seperate battery and tested the pump and it worked. I tried it on the hot lead of the solonoid and it did not work. Since I had to cut three wires to replace the connector at the solonoid that had burnt, I unsoldered the wire that does not go to the pump but connects to the same fusible link as the pump and now I can hear the pump run when I turn the key so there is a short in the circuit that shares the fusible link with the pump circuit. I went to a ford dealer to see if I can find out what is on that circuit and they told me that they have no information about cars that old. DO any of you folks have access to such information.

Let me try to be summarize. I have a connector at the solonoid that has two wires that join at the connector of the solonoid. One wire is a smaller bark blue or black and has a fusible link. The other wire is much heavier dlack wire and enters a fusible link and out of that link are two yellow wires, one large that runs to the pump relay and the other a little smaller. This is the wire that has a short smewhere in the circuit. Does anyone have a wiring diagram that will tell me where the elements of that circuit might be and what they might be. One of the elements must have had an intermittent short that now seems to be more solid. I don't want to move too many wires for fear that the wire is bare and is hitting the frame and if I move it too much it will work again for a short while.

If I can tell you any more please let me know. Thanks again

Response From Hammer Time

Can you identify it on the picture DS supplied earlier?

Our diagrams are set up to find from the other end of the circuit.

Response From rnorew

Looking at the diagram links D&K look to be from the same connector so I would think that it is either D or K. There is only one connector that has more than one wire coming from the connector.

Response From Hammer Time

See if this helps



Response From rnorew

This helps a lot. It looks like link K is the two yellow wires off the connector and link D is the black wire off that same connector. There is nothing wrong with the link D circuit. Do you have any details as to what is in the speed Control? That should have the fuel pump on one of those two wires and something else on the other. When the yellow wire connects to a component will the color of the wire change? I am not real familiar with how auto companies do their wiring.

Response From Hammer Time

Here is the cruise control wiring



Response From rnorew

Thanks but this diagram shows that if I disconnect the yellow wire to this circuit then I might not have a horn but the horn works fine. Both this diagram and the prior one shows a yellow wire going to the electronic engine control circuit. On the prior diagram I thought that the label was for the black wire but this new diagram shows that a yellow wire off of the K fuse runs to an electronic engine control circuit. Is there a schematic for that? Thanks again for all of the help. DOe anyone know if the car will start without the cruise control? I know that I was not using it and have not for years.

Response From Hammer Time

That yellow wire goes to the fuel pump relay.

Response From rnorew

DO you have any idea what the ECA would look like and where it would be?

Response From Hammer Time

If you are going to continue to need info on this vehicle I suggest you get a one car subscription from www.alldatadiy.com

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ditto on that. If getting parts is trouble new or used I'll plug Baker's Auto, Rt. 44., Putnam, CT.

1961 up to ~ 2002 Lincolns only. Most NOS parts known,

T

Response From rnorew

PLease leaver this thread out here. I am still trying to figure out what is wrong and will post what I find if I find the real issue.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Threads can stay alive as long as the original poster (OP) needs them. A locked one can be reopened by any mod. Unless all wrong all are in archives to view.

Where are you now or stuck with this thing? Long thread already for what shouldn't be so fussy,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I agree. You've already been advised to get Alldata to access your diagrams. We aren't going to drag this out for months. It's already been going for 2 months and a month since your last response.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OP - let this thread just fall into archives. If this car is giving you that much trouble hit me with a PM and I'll give you a real phone # for any part on the entire car.

Thread done - T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's an inertia switch in the trunk. Look for red button and see if it popped. Push to reset and see if power is going thru it or continuity thru it. Not common but can fail or even a hard bump might trip it,

T

Response From rnorew

Sorry I forgot to mention that I looked at that switch and it was not tripped. I tried resetting anyway but nothing changed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Sorry I forgot to mention that I looked at that switch and it was not tripped. I tried resetting anyway but nothing changed.


Before you start jumping everything did you check if power gets to the switch in trunk at all? That should be the last stop before powering the pump. Tripped or not it's old enough, have owned zillions of the exact car and year myself and do now, the common problem with the panthers (body of this car) was plain relay up front, driver's side fender skirt underhood covered by a plastic skirt you said you replaced OR the plug to those relays.

Haven't had one blow in about 15 years but carry a universal spare in now down to two of these. Not the point but all these seemed to have the same issues. Unless accident history was like I said. Relays and the plugs to them.

It's plenty old enough for all kinds of problems in the mix. Rust like anything killed all but one of perhaps hundreds. Those relays and the plugs-ins as said either lasted forever or just inexplicably go out on their own with unknown provocation.

Watch out for all diagrams as a few especially Town Cars were different and the Crown Vics with assorted packages for municipal use.

All TCs of then were made at the exact same assembly plant, Wixom, MI. Other "panthers" could be from anywhere else.

What toys does this have? What model stated. There are four common ones........ For rental marked under trunk lid, Executive no markings, Signature, Cartier.

You still have one so it could be an odd ball not listed. Have one right now with in 1988 $$ $16,000 bucks of options not all listed anywhere custom ordered new - they did that. If one of those some you'll have to wire chase as I've never found published data on some.

My point is watch out for published data if this is a rare order car. There's an early and late change mid year of exactly 1988! You need to know the build month marked on door jam and with yellow stamp underhood in paint (not a sticker) on radiator support.
______________
Fusible links. They are marked greatly as shown above. Test light should be enough as HT mentioned.

Right now hope this isn't a special order car or by now altered too much over the years frustrating anything published,

T

Response From Hammer Time


Response From Discretesignals


lincoln town car that just dies

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From booboosissy on lincoln town car that just dies

i have a 1986 lincoln town car that just dies and wont restart for a while it has fuel pressure and spark but it just dies no codes or any thing to tell me whats wrong please help

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

How are you determining that it has spark and fuel? Fuel pump should buzz and shut off when pressure is up to snuff - if it just stays on the pressure is too low.

The common items in these cars are the ign module on the distributor and the fuel pump relay which is unmarked but has the green harness connector and hides under a plastic shield on driver's side inner fender. You can just bend the whole bracket up or remove it with 5/16 or 8mm socket. They are fastened in in a funky way so use a small flat head screwdriver and remember many connector bails on Fords you push to release where they look like you would lift to release,

T

Response From booboosissy

it does do this pump comes on then goes off module brand new im looking at tps think it is geting hot and shutting off or coolant sensor do you think this could be right

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let's face it this car is about 22 years old and is an open book of possible problems. I own three of these right now myself and have been thru about anything these cars can throw at you and get surprised sometimes.

I have not had one yet that didn't run because of a TPS or Temp sensor. Run poorly perhaps but still ran. Neither are that expensive and though I don't like to just toss out parts at random at this point it might be worth the try.

Another thing that has never happened with these engines (may just be my own rare experience) is that they have not eaten or jumped timing chains even with nasty high miles.

A real possibility is water in the fuel. The fuel filter should stop it but who knows? I'd just up and replace that fuel filter with the best one you can find. Add some isopropyl alcohol type dry gas and start doing that with some regularity as water is in there from just condensation over the years and this type of dry gas claims to mix with water and allow it to be burned thru the system thus eliminating it. It would be nice to rule this out.

These cars are fuel fussy. They don't seem to respond well to priming or starting fluid and I don't really know why. They also have a feature that shuts down the fuel pump intended to do that in case of a collision the fuel wouldn't just keep pouring out of a smashed car. The reset for this is in the trunk with a red button near left side trunk hinge. If just a two wire connector it can be jumped and defeat the system but NEVER leave one that way. Just for testing only and I don't really think that's it anyway right now.

I'm just tossing out thoughts right now but consider the EGR valve too. If it leaked badly or stuck it could stop the show. They are a bit expensive to replace without good knowledge that they are in fact bad. So far I have had one go bad but not stop the car from running. I have had mixed luck at cleaning out the pintle in them but that was just for small imperfections and not a no-start problem.

Word has it but hasn't done it to me is the pick up coil in distributor can fail - none yet with me and I would expect NO spark if it failed.

Things that don't like heat are.... coil, ign module. The relays in the mentioned box can partially fail. I believe the one with brown connector can stop the car or make it run poorly. They make universal replacement relays I think part # is AR-242 that will fit any of them. Origs will only fit by color coded skirting but I believe they are the same spec relay otherwise and don't know why they aren't interchangable as newer Fords did and many have been fixed with emergency calls to me from broken down customers telling them to put the clearly marked A/C relay in one of two others to get them home and worked all but one time when for some unknown reason a car needed two relays at once for still an unkown reason.

Keep at it. If this car is in decent shape you can get lots of life out of these. Rust has been the killer of all of them before mechanical problems for me,

T

Response From booboosissy

i rebuilt distibator pick up coil and module this fix the problem i guess there is a curcuit breaker in module that was poping and resetting itself because the pick up coil was cracked thanks for your help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for posting the fix. It was my parts guys that said they had a run of problems like that and what you did fixed it. I carry a whole spare distributor that is known working as it can be replaced on the side of the road with just the 1/2 inch bolt in little time and I can make it back to home/shop to finish the repair but of course since I carry one it has never happened,

T