Shop Discount Fuel Pumps

We have replaced the fuse as well. As far as we know we have replaced everything that has to do with it....makes no sense...

Start chasing wires for the break in power. Connectors are a common trouble spot......

T

If you are talking about the inertia switch, it should be in the truck somewhere behind a panel. There is a push button on it that pops up when it gets tripped, just push the button back down to reset it.....

You could also check to make sure it's getting power to & thru it...........

Get a fuel pressure gauge & leave it connected while you drive. Don't let it distract you from watching where you're going, but try to notice what it does just before & during the stall.
The connector on that style of hi-pressure pump is known to loosen, but it's easy to repair. There's a molded hard plastic connector near the pump clipped to the frame rail - that's NOT the one. Follow those wires down to the pump, where they go into a rubber boot. Slide the boot up to access the terminals. Pull one off at a time, crimp it slightly tighter with pliers, & put it back. Reinstalling the boot is a challenge, but it's doable.....

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Do you have power going to the pump on the gray wire during 2 second prime?

What you have verified is everything up to the tank connector for power, not ground. You can have a connector problem, a ground problem or a bad pump. Verify that power supply again, this time using the black ground wire at the pump connector as your ground for the test light.

OK, I exposed the BL wire & used as ground wire for test light. The GR wire came on for 3 sec. & went off when key was cycled. Bad Fuel Pump???
Thanks again

Assuming it's not a connector beyond that point, yes.

There are no other connectors since I went to the wiring leading down to fuel pump motor itself using the BL wire ground & using test lite. Thank you so much for your quick responses. I posted your forum on my Facebook page and told people to check it out (hope that was okey). We will now buy a fuel pump. Checking on prices (so far $300 -$400). FYI I watched a video on utube where they suggested cutting a hole in floor board to access the fuel pump. I did this since it was under back seat. It was so simple to get out, after removing back seat & carpet.
Again I really appreciate you. You have a wonderfully helpful site.

Just returned from Little Rock from buying a fuel pump (only $259.00). Put it in and it started like a charm. Wanted to thank you so much, I could'nt have done it without your advice.
Stan

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Feel free to promote us anywhere you want. We are just a small group of professional and retired techs that donate out time here.

ok, will do. thanx again

I don't know, but will check that tomorrow morning. Thank you for your help and pls don't give up on me! I will let you know tomorrow AM

Just a maybe is plug for wiring right at/near tank is corroded some and not letting current thru properly,

T

Hammer Time--thanks for the reply. The fuel pump is not turning on at all. I can hear it when it does. It usually takes 2-3 cycles of the ignition switch before it turns the fuel pump on to where I can hear it. Once it turns on then the motor starts up.

Will it turn on by merely cycling the key on and off or does it have to be cranking for it to energize?
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Usually it will not work by turning ignition only--it needs to start to crank and then the fuel pump will start to work. Like I say it usually takes 3-4 times of cranking it over (briefly each time) before it will energize the fuel pump.

That really isn't making any sense on this vehicle. Some of them have a redundant fuel pump feed from the oil pressure switch but this one does not. You need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and jump out the relay to determine if the pump can provide immediate pressure.
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The pump may have a bad check valve in it but until you can give me some of the info I asked for, I can't tell you if that is the case. You HAVE to use a fuel pressure gauge to diagnose this problem.
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Help me to understand why a bad check valve would keep the fuel pump from energizing? It seems like ti would be an electrical problem or a relay problem of some sort--of course I know just enough to be dangerous. Thanks for your input so far.

What you need to do first is determine exactly what the pump is doing. When you first turn the key on, the pump primes the system for 2 seconds. It then shuts off until the computer sees a tach signal from cranking. You need to use a fuel pressure gauge to observe just how it is acting. Cycle the key on a couple times without cranking and watch the gauge and see how quick it comes up to pressure. If you see no pressure this way, try cranking to see if the pump energizes this way. We need to know what is working and what isn't or whether the pump is just weak.

You could have a bad pump causing either low pressure or having a bad check valve allowing the fuel to siphon back into the tank, pinched hose, bad relay (running off oil pressure switch), etc We need to know how it is acting to know where to look.
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