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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Airtex
    Airtex
  • Aisan
    Aisan
  • AutoBest
    AutoBest
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Bosch
    Bosch
  • Carter
    Carter
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Denso
    Denso
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Hitachi
    Hitachi
  • LKQ
    LKQ
  • Precise Fuel Pumps
    Precise Fuel Pumps
  • Spectra
    Spectra
  • Spectra Premium
    Spectra Premium
  • TI Automotive
    TI Automotive
  • TYC Products
    TYC Products

Best Selling Genuine Infiniti Fuel Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Airtex, AutoBest, Delphi, Denso, Hitachi, Aisan, Genuine
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Infiniti Replacement Fuel Pump Parts

We stock Fuel Pump parts for most Infiniti models, including FX35, FX45, G20, G35, I30, I35, J30, M30, M35, M45, Q45, QX4.

Airtex
2004 Infiniti I35 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Airtex

P311-539DBFB    E8335  New

SP736H , 17040-SR2-A31 , E8335 , EP2074 , 31110-26355 , 17040-ST7-A33 , 42021-FE120 , 950-0115 , 152-0890 , 17040-SX0-A30 , SP1126 , 17040-S30-L01 , 31110-26750 , P76016 , 17040-S2A-930 , 152016 , 17040-ST7-A32 , 951-0005 , USEP8335 , P76295 , 31110-2C631 , 42021-AE07A , 17040-SZ3-A50 , 17045-S0X-A02 , 31110-26500 , 17045-S9A-A30 , P76183 , 31110-25510 , P76399 , 950-0160 , 69713 , 31110-2D501 , 950-0116 , 67920 , 951-0006 , 950-0161 , P76510 , 152-0830 , P76429 , 950-0191 , 17040-SR3-A30 , FE0411 , 42022-AE07B , 520-1250 , AJ51-13-350 , 17040-S9A-000 , 152-0926 , 31111-38050 , FE0365 , FG0803 , FE0376 , 31111-2F500 , 402-P8335 , 67925 , FE0403 , 31110-2C531 , 17045-S9A-A00 , 950-0177 , 152-0925 , 42022-FE010 , P3032E , 17040-S3V-A00 , P90002 , 17040-S30-L00 , 8-97163-248-0 , 17042-5M802 , P76144 , 950-0117 , 69855 , 951-0011 , EP475 , 31110-3K600 , EFP8335 , 152-0887 , P90046 , EP1013 , 67923 , 17040-S0X-A00 , P76040 , 950-0167 , P76216 , GCA3372 , 31111-38000 , 951-0004 , 69645 , 17040-S30-A50 , 31111-25700 , 31110-38200 , P76028 , 8-97163-248-1 , P72262 , 31110-2D531 , FE0169 , 66160 , 17040-S10-C20 , P72261 , 67913 , 69780 , 17040-S30-A31 , 17040-SR3-A31 , 17045-S0X-A32 , 67930 , EH335 , 950-0190 , 31111-25750 , 951-0008 , 67908 , 69544 , P158E , 152-0886 , P72241 , 67919 , 152-0972 , 950-0111 , GCA308 , 950-0189 , 17040-S30-A30 , 31110-39100 , 42022-SA030 , GCA3333 , 69706 , 31110-3F510 , 42021-SA090 , 31110-38260 , GCA3377 , 31110-38000 , 31111-2D000 , 31111-25000 , P76035 , 950-0130 , 69842 , 17042-5Y700 , FE0254 , 31110-26350 , 17042-2Y900 , 31111-3H000 , FE0194 , 17042-AC700 , 17040-SR2-A30 , 152-0889 , FE0351 , 31110-25700

Qty:
$42.05
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty
  • Product Attributes:
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 120
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Infiniti I35 V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Airtex
1998 Infiniti QX4 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.3L Airtex

P311-211F612    E8229  New

17040-SY8-A01 , 17040-S02-L01 , 951-0007 , P3000H , 69775 , P72233 , 17040-S04-G40 , 17040-SR2-A33 , GCA3312 , GCA310 , 950-0189 , BPE8-13-35Z , 67978 , 91174465 , 17042-0W005 , 950-0111 , 42021-FA150 , P90046 , 5-86202-235-0 , 67903 , B61P-13-350B , 17042-0M023 , 17040-S10-A00 , P194E , 42021-FA020 , P145E , 17042-4B000 , P326H , P361E , P76034 , 67905 , 17040-SV1-A31 , 152014 , EP397 , 950-7002 , 950-7005 , JE45-13-35ZB , 17040-SW5-A30 , B3E7-13-35ZB , 17040-SR1-A30 , 950-0126 , 950-0198 , 152-0934 , 950-0141 , P162E , 520-1023 , 152-0845 , ZL01-13-350 , EFP318 , 152-0908 , FE0185 , EP2084 , 67412 , P76137 , 17040-S04-G41 , 15110-54G00 , FE0129 , 7420-21360 , 152-0958 , 91173412 , 950-0120 , 402-P8229 , B6BG-13-35Z , P160E , EP481 , P278E , 69659 , 17040-SW5-A32 , EP459 , TCA318 , P498E , P76027 , P72232 , EP2075 , P480H , SP8341H , TCA3309 , 17042-31U08 , P342E , 67890 , P479H , P505H , 152-0975 , SP8030M , 67965 , 15100-54830 , 951-0004 , P352E , 7420-21390 , GCA3362 , 152-0979 , 15100-50G10 , FE0171 , 17040-SV1-L01 , P347H , 42021-FA250 , 17040-SX0-A32 , 950-0127 , 42021-FA200 , 42022-FE011 , BPE8-13-350 , PEP135 , 17040-S01-A30 , 0K24C-13-35ZA , B6BF-13-35Z , 17042-2B500 , 152-0905 , 17040-SS8-A00 , P142E , 15110-50G00 , EP473 , 69715 , 42021-AC001 , PEP173 , P212E , 42021-AC170 , P72239 , 15100-77E00 , FE0248 , EP457 , 42021-AC013 , EP482 , 152-0886 , SP4067M , 950-0129 , P158E , 950-0162 , 15110-54G10 , 30013078 , 0K01A-13-350B , P76038 , 69580 , KLK1-13-35Z , 30019572 , P496E , 17040-SV1-L00 , 31111-28150 , EP1005 , FE0382 , P325H , 8-94384-528-0 , TCA380 , 17040-SV1-L02 , B3E7-13-350A , B3E7-13-350 , EP404 , 15100-58B00 , P521H , P74158 , P364E , 17040-S04-L01 , 69766 , FE0198 , 17040-SV1-A30 , P72240 , P76213 , EP458 , 8-97041-876-1 , 17040-SV4-A30 , P348E , JE48-13-35ZC , 15100-61AA1 , 17040-8B005 , 17040-8B000 , 152-0903 , P72243 , P489H , 950-0128 , P524H , TCA321 , P313H , 15100-50G00 , P518H , B6BF-13-350 , 15110-60GT0 , 31111-37300 , 950-0123 , EP467 , 17040-SV1-A32 , 17040-ST7-L31 , FE0250 , 42021-FC021 , P157E , 30018726 , 152-0898 , 8-94384-528-1 , P72242 , 17040-SR2-A50 , 30024592 , 17040-ST7-L00 , 17040-3S505 , P76017 , P567M , 69644 , P487H , EP488 , FE0117 , B61P-13-ZE0 , FE0284 , 15100-58B01 , 152-0817 , 152-0830 , 950-0194 , 69560 , 152-0882 , 30026423 , 152-0900 , 8-97118-512-0 , P327H , 69773 , P488H , 950-0193 , FE0180 , P3363H , 31110-33610 , 152-0927 , 950-7004 , 67921 , 30024593 , EP406 , EFP8438 , EP344 , FG0800 , ZL01-13-35Z , 8-94479-418-1 , P362H , 15100-65D22 , 17040-S5B-930 , P72192 , 67958 , 15100-61AA0 , 17040-5S105 , P3184M , 69764 , 17042-31U00 , EFP8229A , TCA3370 , 67936 , 17042-0Z000 , GCA333 , SP8349H , P522H , 31111-37150 , 15100-60G20 , FE0283 , 67845 , P345H , 17040-ST7-L01 , 17040-SR1-A31 , 17040-S6M-930 , 94384528 , 30014333 , P3207M , EP391 , EP2079 , GCA3401 , 17042-0W000 , FE0088 , P476E , FE0243 , E8229 , 950-0122 , 950-0124 , P167E , 152-0885 , 17040-SW5-A31 , 152-0891 , 17042-31U05 , P477E , GCA3321 , EP389 , FE0131 , EP471 , FE0150 , 15110-50GT0 , P72236 , P3185M , P3193M , GCA309 , 950-0119 , 17040-S10-C01 , FE0256 , P90024 , 30018727 , 42021-AC200 , FE0367 , FE0170 , P165E , 17040-S01-A31 , GCA308 , GCA3377 , 17040-SS8-A02 , P3205M , TCA376 , F4ZZ-9A407F , 950-0118 , 950-0135 , 950-0112 , 31111-22050 , P285H , 0K01B-13-350B , P90008 , 31110-38250 , 66092 , 17040-S10-C10 , 15100-58B10 , 152-0902 , B6BF-13-350MV , GCA3308 , P213E , P324H , GCA707 , FE0270 , EH229 , P76015 , P76149M , 17042-1W210 , 8-97118-858-1 , P88009 , P520H , EP468 , B6DA-13-350 , 8-97118-858-0 , 42021-FA090 , P3188M , 950-0134 , 69914 , 17040-S84-A02 , 42021-AA330 , 17042-7J100 , 152-0884 , LFG1-13-350 , 950-0121 , 1770A-SR0-A000 , TCA323 , USEP8229 , 67922 , 17040-S01-A40 , P76001 , 67430 , 91177339 , 66119 , 31111-37200 , GCA3402 , JE47-13-35ZA , P3211M , KL11-13-350G , 8-94479-418-2 , P458H , EP1006 , 67992 , 17040-S04-L00 , 5-86205-971-0 , P76176 , 0K24T-13-35ZA , 69496 , P478H , 67963 , 91171624 , FE0407 , P519H , FE0183 , GCA3397 , 42021-AC012 , 17040-S04-G31 , 15100-60G00 , SP8018H , 30010245 , 152-0883 , EFP8229 , 950-0113 , KL47-13-350 , KL22-13-350 , 0K01D-13-35Z , P76002 , 950-0125 , 31111-28300 , 0K29T-13-35Z , KL47-13-35ZB , 17040-S84-A01 , 152-0909 , 67995 , FE0187 , 0K29T-13-35ZA , P76214 , P72237 , 152-0901 , P72235 , 15100-60G21 , 5-86206-958-0 , EP432 , 520-1021 , P166E , 42021-FE090 , P72241 , 17040-S02-L00 , 31123-25000 , 17040-S10-L00 , 17040-S04-G30 , P1022M , B3C7-13-350 , P320H , FE0197 , 15100-65D32 , SP1118 , 17040-S5A-930 , 17040-SR2-A32

Qty:
$43.77
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty
  • Product Attributes:
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 100
    • MINIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 80
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Infiniti QX4 V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275
Airtex
1997 Infiniti J30 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Airtex

P311-4964091    E8235  New

EP425 , 69680 , EP480 , P88010 , 17042-40F00 , 17042-96E10 , 17042-62J00 , 8-97069-336-1 , 69683 , 951-0012 , EP488 , 8-94471-314-0 , 69499 , 8-97019-186-1 , 951-0011 , FE0144 , 69673 , 69646 , K78039 , FE0231 , 69642 , 42021-AC001 , 8-94471-617-1 , P506H , EP487 , PEP177 , FE0089 , P78 , TCA376 , 42021-AA300 , P93 , P501H , P500H , P72251 , P102 , 69629 , 42021-PA000 , GCA314 , 42021-AC120 , 42021-AC070 , 42021-AC160 , 42021-FA040 , GCA3324 , 42021-AA020 , 42021-FA081 , P97 , EP464 , 8-97019-185-1 , 42021-AC072 , P314H , P94 , 8-94471-315-0 , GCA3342 , FE0151 , FE0342 , P148E , P72214 , 8-97019-185-0 , 42021-AC024 , EP433 , 42021-FA001 , P503H , 42021-AC121 , 17042-30R10 , 17042-62E00 , 69919 , P72250 , EP397 , 8-94473-950-1 , 402-P8235 , P527H , P72193 , 8-97019-187-0 , USEP8235 , 8-97019-188-1 , 69655 , EP344 , P72145 , 42021-AC071 , EH235 , EFP8235 , 8-97065-370-2 , 17042-85L00 , P284E , EFP8230 , P507H , P90009 , E8235 , 69679 , SP1139 , FE0252 , 42021-FA000 , 42021-FA080 , PEP152 , FE0176 , 8-97019-186-0 , 8-97016-142-1 , 17042-96E00 , 69678 , GCA343 , 17042-30R11 , FE0258 , P96A , 17042-70F00 , P508H , P525H , FE0389 , P72201 , 17042-30R00 , 17042-40R00 , 69672 , 42021-AA080

Qty:
$55.00
Airtex Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty
  • Product Attributes:
    • MAXIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
    • MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATE (PSI): 90
    • MINIMUM FREE FLOW RATE (GPH): 50
  • Airtex enhanced electric in-tank fuel pumps are 100% quality tested and are designed to deliver quiet operation, industry-leading performance and durability. All Airtex pumps meet or exceed OE specifications in fit, form and function. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
Brand: Airtex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Infiniti J30 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960
AutoBest
2000 Infiniti I30 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L AutoBest

P311-0ABD127    F4346  New

Qty:
$23.00
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty: F314S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Infiniti I30 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2988
AutoBest
1991 Infiniti G20 Electric Fuel Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L AutoBest

P311-5B4FBC3    F4246  New

Qty:
$31.43
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty: F279S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.34599999999999997
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Infiniti G20 L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
AutoBest
1997 Infiniti QX4 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.3L AutoBest

P311-5A787E2    F4230  New

Qty:
$24.21
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty: F295S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Infiniti QX4 VG33E V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275
AutoBest
2002 Infiniti I35 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L AutoBest

P311-0ABD127    F4346  New

Qty:
$23.00
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty: F274S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.35799999999999998
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Infiniti I35 V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
AutoBest
1993 Infiniti J30 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L AutoBest

P311-5B4FBC3    F4246  New

Qty:
$31.43
AutoBest Electric Fuel Pump
  • Strainer required to validate the warranty: F268S
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Diameter: 0.433
    • Outlet Diameter: 0.34599999999999997
Brand: AutoBest
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Infiniti J30 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960
Delphi
2002 Infiniti G20 Electric Fuel Pump - In-Tank 4 Cyl 2.0L Delphi

P311-3644C7B    FE0415  New

25177386 , E16126 , 3L2Z 9H307-FB , EP494 , 31111-2D000 , P74954M , P76038 , A30181 , 1760 A049 , A33084 , E8335 , P316H , SP4113M , SP1229 , E9184M , P76513 , E8786M , E16068 , 951-0016 , RE1096S , 69716 , 0K24C-13-35Z , 59187 , E8454 , P72165 , RE0921S , AFS0126F , P72089 , 17040-ZG50A , SP1353 , A30325 , EP477 , P95107E , AFS087P , P76049 , E8819M , AFS0023P , P76020 , P72229 , E8023 , P72187 , 1F21-13-350B , E8242H , E2353M , 31110-39000 , 152-0948 , E2268S , TCA322 , 1F21-13-350C , P76532M , RE0125F , P76117M , E8455 , 950-0125 , PFS-442 , SP1228 , 0K01B-13-350B , 31110 23010 , E16414 , AFS0427P , 31110-3C500 , 3L2Z 9H307-FC , AFS0327P , P76624M , 69886 , 950-0179 , P76042 , P76295 , SP44B1H , P76034 , 69701 , SP1166 , SP4055M , E16002 , P76361H , P72239 , 950-0131 , 950-0130-BK , A33059 , AFS0887P , 950-0129-BK , E8804 , SP3019M , RF0067 , 1760A294 , E16009 , SP3014M , P300H , 152-1008 , P72203 , E8437M , 15110-65G00 , P72242 , SP3023M , P76430M , A33042 , P74189 , SP4014M , 17042-7J100 , P76373 , SP3059M , 1760A176 , 950-0129 , 15100-61A1V , E8500 , P76387M , RE0725P , 17040-8U000 , 69862 , AFS1106P , SP1118 , RE0658F , 950-0118 , P76575 , SP1367 , F4BZ 9A407-A , SP4035M , 31110-2G100 , P76547M , MR993063 , AFS0925P , 17042-VD71A , AFS0125F , AFS0427 , BP4W-13-35ZA , P72240 , P76510 , A27119 , MR990884 , E16387 , P72236 , MR993339 , P76406M , P88009 , SP7232M , SP2490H , P76391M , AFS0279S , SP1113 , 17042-7J160 , P74952M , E2471 , 31110-2E300 , 67816 , 25177381 , E16230 , 69764 , RE0894P , P299H , E16431 , P76526M , 31110-2G100DS , E8677M , E8732M , 31110-1D500 , BP8J-13-35Z , SP4059H , EP472 , PFS-95 , P95152E , 69889 , 17042-7J161 , RE0427P , SP1331 , 67766 , BP4W-13-35ZG , RE0297F , 1AMFP00002 , SP3063H , 67976 , A33017 , P76249 , P76312M , 31110-2E400 , P76527M , AFS0894P , P72118 , MR990883 , A33087 , SP3021M , 69496 , 15100-57B10 , 15100-61A01 , P76216 , E16088 , 15100-80C02 , SP2269H , GCA702 , 17040-8U001 , RE0887P , 25315080 , E8472S , 31110-2H000 , AFS0926P , SP1342 , E8238H , 67987 , 67731 , P76529M , EP2074 , 67993 , 1760A099 , BP4W-13-350A , EFP2111 , E16096 , 152-0963 , E8458 , P72243 , 17042-0M000 , AFS1096S , BP8J-13-350 , E16451 , RE0279S , 15100-80C10 , P315H , CFE0415 , 31110-2E301 , 69544 , P76403 , E16015 , 17042-4S400 , P72233 , AE1106P , P76212 , P90029 , A33104 , E2074H , P76183 , 69128 , 950-0173 , P76431M , E2075H , 31110-2E350 , AFS0945S , 31111-37150 , 60269 , P76533M , E8972S , 950-0130 , PFS-289 , 67007 , SP1126 , E16445 , SP2077M , RE0327P , P76137 , 951-0007 , P95151E , PFS-437 , P76039 , E8435M , 15100-57B2V , P72237 , E8542M , AFS0725P , 950-7005 , RE0415P , E2226 , A30237 , KL22-13-350 , F4BZ 9A407-B , 67006 , 67923 , E16014 , E8456 , P76144 , 951-0008 , E16314 , 152-0973 , 60268 , 2L2Z 9H307-FA , 60267 , P76411M , 950-0180 , 15100-65811 , GCA355 , 0K29T-13-35Z , RE1106P , BP4W1335ZF , MR993340 , SP4034M , E2111 , 1AMFP00064 , E16134 , 15100-52D1V , SP3030M , E8782M , E8502M , E8229 , 950-0126 , E8673M , 0K01B-13-350C , P72192 , 1510057B20 , SP4049M , P72205 , 15100-61A02 , E8533 , 67982 , 15100-80C1V , P95106E , RE0126F

Qty:
$123.03
Delphi Electric Fuel Pump  In-Tank
  • Electric Fuel Pump
  • Fuel tank contamination is the leading cause of premature fuel pump failure. To reduce risk of contaminating the replacement pump, Delphi recommends cleaning the fuel tank before installing a new pump. Use of fuel tank cleaning kit FC01 is recommended.
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Fuel Type: Gas
    • In Tank or External: In Tank
    • Inlet Type: Strainer
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • Maximum Pressure: 109.0
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 0.375
    • Outlet Type: Hose
    • Package Contents: Electric Fuel Pump, Isolator, Hose Piece, (2) Hose Clamps, Seal, (2) Splices, Spacer, Pall Nut, 2-wire Harness W/connector, (3) Caps, Instruction Sheet
    • Pump Type: Electric
    • System Pressure: 44 Psi
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • 100 years of OE experience, supplier to the world's top automakers, OE Heritage and knowledge built into every aftermarket part, comprehensive portfolio for a wide range of vehicles and model years.
Brand: Delphi
Position: In-Tank
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Infiniti G20 In-Tank L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 2000
Denso
1996 Infiniti G20 Electric Fuel Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - New Electric Fuel Pump

P311-1481876    951-0007  New

MN161935 , 1760A176 , JE45-13-35ZB , E8804 , 25176174 , FE0342 , MB959730 , 17042-7B025 , MB831560 , 15100-50G10 , E8499 , MR134868 , BPE8-13-35Z , 42022 FE001 , JE47-13-35ZA , 67923 , FE0415 , BP8J-13-350 , 31110-39100 , 17042-1E400BC , 31110-3K600 , 17042-5M802 , P72192 , 42021 FE010 , 15100-61A1V , MB831333 , 30018726 , 31111-1R500 , 42021 FA250 , MR508282 , P88004 , 31111-1G500 , E8454 , SP1113 , MB698623 , MB927016 , 31110-3C510 , 69486 , 15100-80C1V , 69613 , 94384528 , 31110-39000 , 31110-2D531 , MR548361 , 0K01B-13-350C , 15100-58B01 , 31110-2C531 , MR508115 , SP1166 , 31110-2E351 , MB959729 , MR431087 , BP4W-13-350A , 42021 FA200 , 69132 , 31110-3C500 , 1760A099 , 15110-50G00 , 74202 1390 , MB959847 , MB831263 , MR208665 , SP1126 , P88016 , KLK1-13-35Z , 31110-38200DS , ZL01-13-350A , 15100-50G00 , 66092 , 42021 AE02B , 31110-38260DS , E8213 , 31110-2C631 , 5-86206-958-0 , SP1349 , MR241080 , KL47-13-35ZB , 17040-ZG50A , 31111-3S400 , P88009 , BPE8-13-350 , 17040-8B000 , 91174465 , 69130 , BP4W-13-35ZG , E8229 , SP1118 , 15100-65D22 , SP1269 , MN161721 , 8-97118-512-0 , SP1123 , 31110-2D500 , SP1233 , E8548 , P72203 , FE0150 , E8235 , 31111-28300 , MR134806 , 69544 , MB831262 , SP1228 , MR241351 , SP1229 , FE0119 , E8458 , E8455 , 31110-1G500DS , MR124999 , 15110-50GT0 , 31110-2E301 , B61P-13-350B , 15100-77E00 , MR376042 , 17042-4S400 , 15110-60GT0 , 42022 FE011 , 8-97118-858-1 , SP1139 , 31110-2C700 , 30018727 , AW332718 , 31110-38260 , 31110-38250 , ZL01-13-35ZA , 31110-38200 , MB698857 , 31111-37200 , 3111023300 , 17040-8B005 , FE0511 , 69128 , 42021 AA320 , E2471 , B3E7-13-35ZB , SP1379 , 25177690 , 31110-33610 , FE0387 , 17042-2B500 , 15110-65G00 , 30026422 , 15100-65D70 , MB678038 , 15100-57B2V , 8-94479-418-2 , AW334174 , MR993063 , E8532 , 31110-1M500 , B6BG-13-35Z , 0K24T-13-35ZA , FE0479 , B6DA-13-350 , 69496 , 17042-5M800 , MR566825 , 17042-4B000 , 15100-65D02 , 0K24C-13-35ZA , 42021 AE06B , 31110-2G100DS , MB893666 , BP8J-13-35Z , MR391856 , 31110-38000DS , 42021 AC001 , MB831691 , 25177383 , 8-94384-528-1 , 17042-0M000 , 31110-0A000 , 15100-60G21 , JE48-13-35ZC , 69886 , SP1331 , MR990817 , 31111-0M000 , 15100-52D1V , MB831562 , 91177339 , 31110-2H000 , 42021 FC021 , 0K29T-13-35ZA , FE0545 , 42021 AC200 , 15110-54G00 , P76510 , 42021 FE020 , 17042-5S700 , KL47-13-350 , 31111-09000 , B3C7-13-350 , 15100-65811 , E8450 , MR933629 , P76575 , 42021 AC170 , MR439710 , 31110-2F600 , P88007 , MR134804 , SP1274 , MR497143 , 31110-1M600 , E2111 , 31110-1G500 , 69487 , 69499 , 17040-3S510 , 42022 AE02A , MB923663 , E8335 , FE0513 , 31110-2D501 , MN161720 , MR134284 , P76144 , MR325884 , 31111-38000 , MB831561 , 31110-23300 , 30019572 , MR241394 , 31110-0A500 , FE0351 , 17040-5S105 , 42021 FA090 , 15100-65D12 , 42021 AC013

Qty:
$80.69
Denso Electric Fuel Pump
  • Electric Fuel Pump
  • DENSO Fuel Pump
  • New Electric Fuel Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 11.000
    • Internal Or External: Internal
  • Electric Fuel Pump
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Infiniti G20 SR20DE L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
Denso
2004 Infiniti I35 Electric Fuel Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L Denso - New Electric Fuel Pump

P311-58E06F4    951-0008  New

XW1Z 9H307-AG , 69496 , XF1Z 9H307-AB , F7DZ 9H307-AB , SP1113 , MR993061 , 1F21-13-350C , MN150579 , SP1367 , 69613 , F75Z 9H307-ME , F8ZZ 9H307-DF , MR508283 , E2471 , 3C2Z 9H307-BD , 3C2Z 9H307-DB , SP1235 , F7DZ 9H307-LB , 69542 , ZZR1-13-350B , 67919 , E2446 , 69132 , SP1173 , 69544 , F7UZ 9H307-BD , MR990884 , F78Z 9H307-BB , XL5Z 9H307-EG , E2333 , JLM12159 , E2284 , 31123-25000 , 1760A041 , P72192 , XL3Z 9H307-EB , YL5Z 9H307-DG , YF1Z 9H307-BD , 69134 , FE0483 , 2L2Z 9H307-HD , 31110-26330 , 31110-26755DS , FE0482 , 5003 860AB , E8533 , MR990818 , XF2Z 9H307-BB , F6PZ 9A407-EB , XF1Z 9H307-DB , GY01-13-35ZA , XS4Z 9H307-AB , F7UZ 9H307-DC , XL1Z 9H307-DC , 3C2Z 9H307-AB , F75Z 9H307-AD , P74189 , YC2Z 9H307-BB , 1760A294 , 8-97163-248-1 , F8CZ 9H307-AK , 4762 964 , F7AZ 9H307-AE , 31110-26510 , E2518 , XC2Z 9H307-BB , 17042-5Y700 , YL5Z 9H307-EG , JLM20529 , SP1343 , 31110-26500DS , E2490 , XL3Z 9H307-AB , MR993340 , XL2Z 9H307-A , XL1Z 9H307-BC , FE0216 , 5003 861AB , YL5Z 9H307-FG , P76513 , GY01-13-350A , SP1197 , P88016 , FE0368 , F75Z 9H307-LE , E2254 , 31110-26355DS , F7PZ 9A407-CB , MN106213 , YF1Z 9H307-AC , FE0302 , F75Z 9H307-KE , SP1353 , XL5Z 9H307-FH , XL5Z 9H307-DH , F8DZ 9H307-AD , E8456 , FE0479 , F7UZ 9H307-CD , 69548 , MR990883 , 69128 , F75Z 9H307-CD , F7PZ 9H307-BE , SP1119 , 1W1Z 9H307-BG , 1760 A049 , E2521 , E2303 , MN161722 , F75Z 9H307-BD , SP1285 , XL1Z 9H307-AC , XL3Z 9H307-BB , XL3Z 9H307-FB , 69131 , 3L2Z 9H307-FC , 1760A049 , F8ZZ 9H307-AE , FE0415 , 3C2Z 9H307-CB , XL1Z 9H307-FC , JLM12204 , XL3Z 9H307-DB , 5003 869AA , 1760A177 , AJ51-13-35Z , F8DZ 9H307-HC , E8335 , 2C2Z 9H307-AB , F6PZ 9H307-BB , AJ51-13-350 , XL1Z 9H307-CC , FE0351 , 2C6Z 9H307-AB , FE0239 , XS2Z 9H307-CA , SP1126 , SP1196 , XL3Z 9H307-CB

Qty:
$80.69
Denso Electric Fuel Pump
  • Electric Fuel Pump
  • DENSO Fuel Pump
  • New Electric Fuel Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 11.000
    • Internal Or External: Internal
  • Electric Fuel Pump
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Infiniti I35 VQ35DE V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Denso
1994 Infiniti G20 Electric Fuel Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - New Electric Fuel Pump

P311-1481876    951-0007  New

MN161935 , 1760A176 , JE45-13-35ZB , E8804 , 25176174 , FE0342 , MB959730 , 17042-7B025 , MB831560 , 15100-50G10 , E8499 , MR134868 , BPE8-13-35Z , 42022 FE001 , JE47-13-35ZA , 67923 , FE0415 , BP8J-13-350 , 31110-39100 , 17042-1E400BC , 31110-3K600 , 17042-5M802 , P72192 , 42021 FE010 , 15100-61A1V , MB831333 , 30018726 , 31111-1R500 , 42021 FA250 , MR508282 , P88004 , 31111-1G500 , E8454 , SP1113 , MB698623 , MB927016 , 31110-3C510 , 69486 , 15100-80C1V , 69613 , 94384528 , 31110-39000 , 31110-2D531 , MR548361 , 0K01B-13-350C , 15100-58B01 , 31110-2C531 , MR508115 , SP1166 , 31110-2E351 , MB959729 , MR431087 , BP4W-13-350A , 42021 FA200 , 69132 , 31110-3C500 , 1760A099 , 15110-50G00 , 74202 1390 , MB959847 , MB831263 , MR208665 , SP1126 , P88016 , KLK1-13-35Z , 31110-38200DS , ZL01-13-350A , 15100-50G00 , 66092 , 42021 AE02B , 31110-38260DS , E8213 , 31110-2C631 , 5-86206-958-0 , SP1349 , MR241080 , KL47-13-35ZB , 17040-ZG50A , 31111-3S400 , P88009 , BPE8-13-350 , 17040-8B000 , 91174465 , 69130 , BP4W-13-35ZG , E8229 , SP1118 , 15100-65D22 , SP1269 , MN161721 , 8-97118-512-0 , SP1123 , 31110-2D500 , SP1233 , E8548 , P72203 , FE0150 , E8235 , 31111-28300 , MR134806 , 69544 , MB831262 , SP1228 , MR241351 , SP1229 , FE0119 , E8458 , E8455 , 31110-1G500DS , MR124999 , 15110-50GT0 , 31110-2E301 , B61P-13-350B , 15100-77E00 , MR376042 , 17042-4S400 , 15110-60GT0 , 42022 FE011 , 8-97118-858-1 , SP1139 , 31110-2C700 , 30018727 , AW332718 , 31110-38260 , 31110-38250 , ZL01-13-35ZA , 31110-38200 , MB698857 , 31111-37200 , 3111023300 , 17040-8B005 , FE0511 , 69128 , 42021 AA320 , E2471 , B3E7-13-35ZB , SP1379 , 25177690 , 31110-33610 , FE0387 , 17042-2B500 , 15110-65G00 , 30026422 , 15100-65D70 , MB678038 , 15100-57B2V , 8-94479-418-2 , AW334174 , MR993063 , E8532 , 31110-1M500 , B6BG-13-35Z , 0K24T-13-35ZA , FE0479 , B6DA-13-350 , 69496 , 17042-5M800 , MR566825 , 17042-4B000 , 15100-65D02 , 0K24C-13-35ZA , 42021 AE06B , 31110-2G100DS , MB893666 , BP8J-13-35Z , MR391856 , 31110-38000DS , 42021 AC001 , MB831691 , 25177383 , 8-94384-528-1 , 17042-0M000 , 31110-0A000 , 15100-60G21 , JE48-13-35ZC , 69886 , SP1331 , MR990817 , 31111-0M000 , 15100-52D1V , MB831562 , 91177339 , 31110-2H000 , 42021 FC021 , 0K29T-13-35ZA , FE0545 , 42021 AC200 , 15110-54G00 , P76510 , 42021 FE020 , 17042-5S700 , KL47-13-350 , 31111-09000 , B3C7-13-350 , 15100-65811 , E8450 , MR933629 , P76575 , 42021 AC170 , MR439710 , 31110-2F600 , P88007 , MR134804 , SP1274 , MR497143 , 31110-1M600 , E2111 , 31110-1G500 , 69487 , 69499 , 17040-3S510 , 42022 AE02A , MB923663 , E8335 , FE0513 , 31110-2D501 , MN161720 , MR134284 , P76144 , MR325884 , 31111-38000 , MB831561 , 31110-23300 , 30019572 , MR241394 , 31110-0A500 , FE0351 , 17040-5S105 , 42021 FA090 , 15100-65D12 , 42021 AC013

Qty:
$80.69
Denso Electric Fuel Pump
  • Electric Fuel Pump
  • From 01/1994 DENSO Fuel Pump
  • New Electric Fuel Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 11.000
    • Internal Or External: Internal
  • Electric Fuel Pump
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Infiniti G20 SR20DE L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
Hitachi
1999 Infiniti QX4 Electric Fuel Pump Hitachi - with Filter Screen

P311-504811A    W0133-1814031  New

Qty:
$252.26
Hitachi Electric Fuel Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/1998-
  • Alleged fuel pump failures can often be traced to a faulty fuel pressure regulator instead of (or in addition to) the pump itself. To avoid unnecessary warranty returns and comebacks, WORLDPAC strongly recommends testing (and, if in doubt, replacing) the fuel pressure regulator before considering the diagnosis of a faulty fuel pump to be complete and correct.
  • with Filter Screen
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:05-00-98
Hitachi
2000 Infiniti QX4 Electric Fuel Pump Hitachi - with Filter Screen

P311-504811A    W0133-1814031  New

Qty:
$252.26
Hitachi Electric Fuel Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -12/1999
  • with Filter Screen
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Infiniti QX4 To:12-00-99
Aisan
1996 Infiniti I30 Electric Fuel Pump Aisan

P311-5D3090D    W0133-1814032  New

Qty:
$151.73
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/1995-
Brand: Aisan
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1996 - Infiniti I30 Fr:03-00-95
Genuine
2002 Infiniti Q45 Electric Fuel Pump Genuine - with Fuel Screen

P311-0649966    W0133-1814230  New

Qty:
$381.81
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2001-
  • Includes Fuel Screen. This product and/or the vehicle system(s) may require programming to complete the installation. Please refer to the Factory Service Information.
  • with Fuel Screen
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti Q45 Fr:01-01-01
Genuine
2005 Infiniti Q45 Electric Fuel Pump Genuine - with Fuel Screen

P311-0649966    W0133-1814230  New

Qty:
$381.81
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Fuel Screen. This product and/or the vehicle system(s) may require programming to complete the installation. Please refer to the Factory Service Information.
  • with Fuel Screen
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Infiniti Q45
Genuine
2006 Infiniti Q45 Electric Fuel Pump Genuine - with Fuel Screen

P311-0649966    W0133-1814230  New

Qty:
$381.81
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -11/30/2005
  • Includes Fuel Screen. This product and/or the vehicle system(s) may require programming to complete the installation. Please refer to the Factory Service Information.
  • with Fuel Screen
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti Q45 To:11-30-05
Genuine
2003 Infiniti M45 Electric Fuel Pump Genuine - with Fuel Screen

P311-0649966    W0133-1814230  New

Qty:
$381.81
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2002-
  • Includes Fuel Screen. This product and/or the vehicle system(s) may require programming to complete the installation. Please refer to the Factory Service Information.
  • with Fuel Screen
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti M45 Fr:07-01-02
Genuine
2004 Infiniti M45 Electric Fuel Pump Genuine - with Fuel Screen

P311-0649966    W0133-1814230  New

Qty:
$381.81
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -12/31/2004
  • Includes Fuel Screen. This product and/or the vehicle system(s) may require programming to complete the installation. Please refer to the Factory Service Information.
  • with Fuel Screen
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Infiniti M45 To:12-31-04

Latest Infiniti Repair and Fuel Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

fuel leak down

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From upmaine on fuel leak down

I have a 99 chevy s10 blazer with a vortec 4.3 and fuel system is having a leak down. If I start the balzer within 20 minutes of it being turned off it will start ok but any longer than that it takes several tried before it will start so i got a pressure gauge and as soon as i shut it off the pressure starts to fall. I replaced the fuel pump 14 months ago. will the fuel pressure regulator cause this type of leak down and can the fuel pump also cause this. I was not sure if the fuel pump had some kind of valve that held fuel pressure. Is their anyway to figure out if it's the fuel pressure gauage with out removing the top part of the intake and to figure out if it's the fuel pump causing this.

Response From Hammer Time

That's easy. Just pinch off the feed line after building pressure and it it holds then, the fuel pump is the problem. If not, the problem is forward of that point.

Response From Hemi Guy

Do yourself a big favor guy. Get a suitcase of Becks this weekend and do the modification below. Vortecs are just one pain in (you know what) after the other. As soon as you fix one thing the poppets will be leakin again.


http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyoutoo/Sticking%20Poppet.htm

Response From Hammer Time

Interesting procedure. I don't know that I would dive into something like that just yet. As a rule I don't see that many problems with the injectors although they should be pressure cleaned occasionally. I drive one myself.

Response From Hemi Guy Top Rated Answer

(Quote) Interesting procedure. I don't know that I would dive into something like that just yet. As a rule I don't see that many problems with the injectors although they should be pressure cleaned occasionally. I drive one myself.

I drive a 2007 Infinity G35X. It's got 519.641 miles on it. I wish I had a nickel for every leakin poppet valve or failed pressure regulator (spider) I've seen on a Vortec. If I did I'd buy a fleet of Infinities.

As one pro to another. Swap it out buddy.

97 Infiniti Q45 cranking but not starting

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Babyjay951 on 97 Infiniti Q45 cranking but not starting

I have a 1997 Infiniti q45 and the other day when I put into reverse, I backed up and it died on me, then would not fire back up. I have changed the fuel filter, changed out my spark plugs and made sure they all have spark and weren't drowned in oil. I unplugged and unmounted all the sensors near the mass air flow sensor and cleaned them all out with sensor cleaner and cleaned all the plugs with electric cleaner. When I turn the key, the car cranks ad turns over and it feels like its going to start but then dies out. Battery's only a couple months old, and I've never had any problem with the car since I got it besides tires and suspension. I've checked the fuel lines and there is pressure, return and intake lines. There is spark on all plugs and my scanner didn't read any errors so I can't tell if its a sensor or not, but I really don't want to bring to the shop an get my pockets raped if its something I can fix. It seems like it wants to start but when it goes to fire either a sensor or something electrical is telling the car not to. I'm looking for suggestions on what to check/do next. Any advice is appreciated and i can give as much details as I can. Thanks

Response From BrentNelson

For starters you might want to check the fuel pump, fuel filter. Also check for a clogged catalytic converter.Try the mass airflow sensor, too.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

For starters you might want to check the fuel pump, fuel filter. Also check for a clogged catalytic converter.Try the mass airflow sensor, too.

That's not the way things are diagnosed around here. We don't try parts. If you aren't sure how accurate your advice is, then please don't post it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Will it fire up with a prime? What was the fuel pressure?

t

Response From Discretesignals



I really don't want to bring to the shop an get my pockets raped if its something I can fix.

Why do you have that conception? There happens to be honest repair shops in business that aren't out to screw their customers. You can pay them to diagnose the problem. They will give you a quote and you can decide if you want do it or not. You probably don't have the equipment or knowledge to diagnose the problem anyhow.

Do you have a high end scan tool, volt meter, wiring schematic, no start trouble chart, fuel pressure gauge with adapters, spark tester, graphing multimeter/lab scope? Those are things needed to troubleshoot the problem your having. Sure you can go ahead and start guessing and slapping a bunch of parts on it hoping you fix the problem. How much will that cost you compared to having a diagnosis done which will pinpoint the component that failed.

Response From nickwarner

You do realize that the very people you are asking for help are the very same people you accuse of trying to screw you over, right? We are all pros here. That specialty tool list DS gave you is a bargain if we could even lay our hands on it for $10,000 too, by the way. thats over and above the other $50,000-100,000 in hand and power tools to get it apart the right right way and put it back together with a guarantee. But since we're all a bunch of cons anyway, I'll feel free to opt out of helping you for free to fix your LUXURY BRAND CAR that you're too cheap to pay a reasonable fee for. So how about this, crawl up your own ass and take a deep breath. You just bit that hand that feeds when you ask us to help you in the same breath you accuse of of thievery. Enjoy your pockets getting raped. Bend over good and hard and just imagine you took a field trip to Penn State that went horribly wrong in the showers.

There are a lot of honest techs out there. I hope you meet the ones that actually do max out your credit cards without fixing jack shit.

infinit Q45 doesnt acclerate or go over 45mph

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From mikekane0982 on infinit Q45 doesnt acclerate or go over 45mph

i have an 1992 infiniti q45 , It has a V8 with 159000 miles on it,tranny and motor run good ,no noise and shifts fine.but I replaced the cats some coils,fuel filter,maf sensor,spark plugs, My car had this problem in december and I replaced all that I just listed.but now it slowly has gotten worse then before.It has good gas pressure.the fuel pumps good.Theirs no check engine light on.The newest symptoms are it doesnt accelerate at all.I cant get it to go over 1800 rpms if I try it bucks or has no response.and the longer the drive the worse and worse it gets.I eventually cant go no more.It comes to a crawl to 30 mphs at 1500rpms.It has a rough idle but its not that bad.If I rev it in park I can get it to go up to 4000rpms but quickly goes done to 700 rpms and then wont go back up unless I take my foot off the gas.Sometimes it runs alittle better but not often enough to count.No one can figure it out since theirs no check engine light.And Im sick of getting ripped off.So please help me out in anyway.Has anyone had these similiar problems?Does anyone know what it could be?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You just said it has a rough idle. Rough suggests it isn't burning fuel properly which probably killed the cats to begin with unless they plain rusted out.

No load revving as even a test is a good way to make scrap metal out of that engine. I'd do a compression test on this and check for exhaust restrictions,

T

Response From mikekane0982 Top Rated Answer

i had the cats done in december because they were bad .i also had the maf sensor fuel filter and coil done at the same time.it ran better but not 100%.it slowly got to the point it is at now.it used to sometimes not let me rev past 5000rpms while driving , it acted like it was getting stuck or like it cant go any further.and while it was acting like this , if it was a long drive it would slowly get worse.it would get down to 2000rpms and have that problem.it would slowly lose power.shorter rides were better.but now it wont go past 1800 rpms.if i try to press the gas it bogs down and sometimes bog down so much it turns off other times it feels like it cant go no where.like somethings holding back.it sounds like burrrrrrr when i press the gas.it also backfires in the intake sometimes if i hold the gas down.what can it be?could the old cats clog the mufflers and when i replaced them it freed up some flow but since it didnt fix the problem the new cats got over heated and now are clogged and its 10 times worse?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Mufflers don't usually clog up but it's possible. At miles and age with the running rough history I'd be diagnosing for timing, valve timing, and exhaust restriction - perhaps again with even new converters. It's older and some miles on this. High RPMs without load is pushing it with about any engine. Back firing suggests valve timing, regular timing, burnt valves especially intake, weak valve springs or more.

Compression test and testing for restrictions would be good information. Checking each spark plug in comparison to others could be telling as well. Anytime an engine isn't running smoothly and well it is usually dumping unburned fuel to converters that can overheat, plug up even if relatively not that old.

As said they can rust such that connections are beyond repair but burning out from inside is usually from them working too hard for too long and checking again for restrictions would help,

T

1995 Olds 88 sudden problem

Showing 2 out of 26 Posts | Show 24 Hidden Posts
Question From gwar on 1995 Olds 88 sudden problem

1995
Oldsmobile
88 LSS
3.8L
122,000mi

Was driving down the freeway when all of a sudden I lost power and the check engine light came on. Was able to make it back home ok, but it died once at a stop sign.
It ran very rough and sluggish, at idle or under power.
I tried getting codes read at Autozone, but they said my car isn't compatible.
Looking more into OBD1 and 2, I've found my car has the OBD2 connector, but is a OBD1 computer.
I bought a scanner (make and model eludes me at the moment, I can update later) and after some "adapting" (long story) I was able to get it to read the obd1 codes from the computer.
It gave me the following DTC #'s: 28, 25, 24, 23, 22, 38, 37, 36, 35, 34, 33, 32, 31, 46, 39, 55, 54, 52.
I have no idea what to do now. Some of these codes are conflicting (like mass airflow high and mass airflow low).
I am also unable to clear the codes. According to the scanner, it says I have to follow the service manual procedures when I press the clear button.
I've unhooked the battery, but the codes come right back after hooking it back up.
It also seems to be getting worse. A few days after I got it home, I was able to start it again, but it would still run very rough. The other day though, it would barely keep running at all. Now it won't even start, just cranks.
When I put the key to on, I can hear the fuel pump pressure up like normal, then it stops.
I did test the throttle position sensor with a multimeter and got good results with a smooth resistance curve across the movement.
I've never had much experience with computer cars. Most cars I've worked on are 80's and older.
Hope someone can help.

Thank you,
Loren

Response From bobgee

i have been having exact same problems except no codes.
i do have questions tho. firstly, can we definitely rule out crank sensor? everyone i talk to wants to replace this even tho
i have good spark with a hei tester.
i also could only get my noid to light up once. when i hook it up to battery directly it will light brightly but at plug with 12.4 volts
it wont light. with volt meter connected to plug volts will go down when trying to start.
is it possible for all injectors to go out at once or will one bad one take all of them out. or is this a sign of whatever controls injector pulse is bad.

Response From Hammer Time

If you have a question please start a new thread and not hijack this one.

Response From gwar

Hey guys,
Well after letting the Olds sit in the garage all winter (without touching it besides turning the battery charger on once in a while), I decided to give it a crank yesterday and see how it sounded.
It started right up!
Was idling fine, no CEL.
I turned it off, put the air cleaner assembly and other covers back on, then drove it down the road as if nothing ever happened to it.
Was as smooth as it has ever been.
So now I'm really scratching my head.
As you can see from previous posts, last I left it, it would only run on carb cleaner, and I had narrowed the problem down to the injectors not getting a proper pulse.
It's been sitting 5 months, connected to a good battery. I don't see how anything would have been reset.
Of course I'm nervous to drive it a distance because if it fails again I may be abandoning it on the side of the road.
So I'm wondering now, would a problem that just "magically" goes away like this point to anything specific?
What sucks, is if I go and change the ECC like I had been planning, the vehicle may keep working along just fine, but I won't know if that actually fixed the problem.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanx!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can only guess now if all is well with no codes (probably OBD I) it will need to die on you which suks to find out why. Any repair now will be an aimless guess.

Had one of those myself but a real toilet of a car but legal. Three times it just shut down - would crank and finally caught it with tools on it. No spark and no fuel pressure. Junked the car as minutes later it plain ran like new so nothing to find and as said was a toilet car so no big deal. I'm not into walking with keys in hand nor would anyone like that. Three possibilities would have exceeded that one's value so it's a Kia or something now

If you don't find some connection possibly green with corrosion you are in trouble to be sure of what is up. Tossing parts could and probably will be a total waste of money now if running properly - argh!

T

Response From gwar

Well I guess I spoke too soon. Took it out for a drive tonight, got about 25 mi and same thing happened as first time. CEL came on and it coughed, sputtered and died at the side of the road. Just cranked, no re-start. Waited a few minutes as I called someone to come get me, then tried cranking again. Fired up as if nothing happened. No CEL. Was able to make it the next 5 mi or so back home, no problems. (Even had to wait 5 min for a train)
So I'm going to have to go through and check more wiring and see if anythings rubbed through. I think I'll go and add some grounds to stuff too in case something is just not grounded properly.
I would assume this rules out the computer as being bad....if it works sometimes, but then fails, then works again?

Loren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm old but still alive with mega experience with cars in general.

You have to get codes read even if not OBD II it has something to say. If you can't find help where you are than shut off your computer and find help on hand.

No problem coming here to find an easy fix. Doubt this is one. Trust me the guys (all guys right now) are here to help for FREE but might be time to junk this car and cut losses you'll never recover!

T

Response From gwar

Thanks for all the help everyone!
To finish up the thread, I ended up just buying a new computer (ECM) from Autozone ($112) and putting my chip into it. Started up and has been running fine ever since. Did this in July, so last 3 months no problems. It did not require any on-car or special programming as the Cardone web site says. I never did find anything that would have caused the problem in the first place, but it's not unheard of for these to go bad after a while. Car is 17 years old. Again, thanks for everyone's assistance.

Response From Hammer Time

You didn't have to program anything because you have an OBD1 system. Only PBD2 requires programming.

Question closed with resolution.

Response From Sidom

Are you sure on the year of this?
This was right in the transistion between OBD I & II. The federal 95s had hybrid design but no matter...


With all those codes it sounds like your PCM may be bad, throwing that many codes...

With the older ones you always start with the 5x codes 1st, those are PCM codes and need to be dealt with 1st....

Obviously you would want to check the powers & grounds 1st, a bad PCM ground could also cause those problems....

Response From gwar

Yup it's a 95. Do you think my scanner isn't getting the right codes? It is supposed to read ODB I & II but I had to make a special adaption to get it to read the Olds.

Where would I look for a PCM ground? The computer box itself is up under the dash by passenger feet area. It's housed in an aluminum shell, but has no real ground wire attached to it, just 3 plugs with many wires each.
I did clean the battery and body ground near the battery. No help.

Response From Sidom

The grounds & power wires are part of those many wires .....

The biggest problem is I don't know how reliable that adaptor is. With any no start you would obvious want to see what you lost, spark or fuel an go from there. HammerTime has a good no start flow chart at the top of one of these forums I believe, that would be a good place to start.

But if the problem leads back to any thing PCM relate, any data is really suspect.

Get the chart & find out what your missing, if it isn't anything simple you may want to consider taking it in

Response From Discretesignals

I'd erase all those codes and then see which ones come back.

Response From gwar

In fact I did try just that. Tried erasing with the scan tool, but it says to "follow the service manual to erase codes for my application".
I tried removing fuse and disconnecting battery....overnight even, but the codes are either still there, or regenerated as soon as I turn the key on and scan again.

I've also checked fuel pressure. It was reading about 47 psi.
I did get spark from a spark plug (with the ground pin bent up) Reading online, someone said that you need to use an HEI spark tester not just a spark plug or you may get unreliable results. This is the reason for bending the pin up to make the largest gap possible. When this test is good, it should indicate that the crank sensor is good, as well as the ICM. I'm going through them next though just to be thorough.

I'm getting odd results from the Noid lights connected to to the injector wires. I'm using the standard kit from Autozone rental. With multimeter I get 12v from each set of injector wires. The noid light does not light, however. When measuring the voltage with the noid light connected, the voltage drops to only a few millivolts. Upon cranking, there are no flashes from the noid light. There was 1 flash however, when I turned the key to on....but it's only done this once. One page I read said that noid lights may not light in all applications...they noted some high impedance Honda's as an exception. Anyone have experience with my application and noid lights? or 1995 similar GM's?
Thanks again.

Response From Sidom

I'm away from my database right now but fuel pressure sounds about right and you are correct about checking spark. You do want to use a spark tester as opposed to using a plug or just holding the wire close to ground. The reason being is it take a lot more voltage to fire a plug under compression than what it take to just get a spark out in the open. So if say you had a weak coil, you could waste a lot of time chasing other things down thinking spark is fine, when you could've found the problem right then & there. Try spraying some carb clean or starting fluid down the throttle body & see if you can get it to run that way.

On this system, it should flash the noid light when you are cranking. With the connecter hooked up you should have 12v on both sides of the injector with the KOEO. Just for the hell of it, disconnect all the injector connecters & check for pulse. If this gives you a pulse, then you have a shorted injector.

The OBD I systems you could just disconnect the battery to clear codes. The OBD II systems do have a memory. Usually this takes a scan tool to clear but you can disconnect the battery, turn on the lights, pump the brk pedal & use a few more accessories & that will be enough drain out the system. A quick in field method to clear everything was to disconnect BOTH cables, touch them together & the hook them back up. If you do that & all the codes come back, I would be looking really hard at the PCM. Like I said before, with codes on that system you are suppose to start with the lowest number code 1st unless it's a 5x series code then you would start with the lowest 5x code 1st.

The only thing in the back of my head is you really don't have the right equipment to pull codes or read data on this, so at this point I can't trust your data 100%. I can't say for positive but I believe these systems are federal only. The reason being I have been doing diags for years (working in CA) & had never heard of this hybrid system until I came here & have done tons of 95 GMs. Then I finally got one, checked under the hood & it had a federal emission label. After a little more research found out Snap On does make the connector for my scanner..BUT after doing the math....Doing this 30+ years & have only seen 3 to this point & it's only on 95s.....I passed on the new connector...I told the shop...they can buy it if they want.....

Response From gwar

Thanks for all your help everyone.

I've spent the weekend running through some more tests.
I found a nice site that has detailed testing for the GM 3.8L engines:
no links allowed

Basically, all the tests passed except the Fuel Injector Noid Light Test:
no links allowed
This last time I performed the test, I started to get a flashing Noid light, but then it quit. I moved it to another plug, flashed twice maybe, then stopped.
I had all injectors unplugged. After the 3rd plug, I got no more flashes, even moving back to earlier tested ones.
So I tried to run it off a can of carb cleaner. It did fire up and run as well as could be expected from a can.
I guess this narrows it down to a fuel injector system problem. Does this mean I should buy a rebuilt computer and replace it? When I looked at mine, it has a chip inside. Do I get a new chip with a new computer, or do I put mine in the new computer? What if the chip is the problem, not the computer, or both?
Thanks again,

Response From Sidom

Well it looks like you've narrowed it down to a pulse problem since it runs on carb clean so that's good...Good job!.....

It could be a bad PCM but that isn't the only thing it could be....That's the tough thing here, you are limited by not having the all the right equipment so it's probably going to come down to guessing, which can get expensive if you are wrong...

I know the comp is throwing a buttload of codes which is sometimes the sign of a bad comp but DS was right that they should be P codes so we aren't even sure if this is valid or not. It would be nice to be able to check at the PCM conecter to see if a cmp signal is getting there & if it looks good. I realize you probably don't have a scope but it would be nice

One thing you could do is do a visual of the cmp sensor wiring at the frt of the engine & around the ign control module. Make sure no harnesses have rubbed thru or aren't oil soaked, if there soaked, you're gonna need to open up the loom & check out the wires. Maybe disconnect the TPS, if the comp thinks it's at WOT, it'll shut off the injectors.

There are actually a couple different injection systems port & sequential, port fires banks while sequential fires individual ones.... Is the 8 digit of the vin a K or L ?

Response From gwar

The TPS sensor did pass the tests. Voltage ramped up and down nicely when moving it between closed and open throttle. I probed the cmp signal at the ign control module, there it was good, well, got a flashing LED from it.
The 8th digit of VIN is a "K".
I'm not sure what you mean by a "federal" emission label in your previous post. I'm also not sure if I can post pictures here, so instead, I've typed the label from under the hood in below, verbatim:


NRD VEHICLE EMISSION GM CATALYST
CONTROL INFORMATION EGR/HO2S/TWC/SFI
ENGINE DISPL: 3.8 LITER ENGINE FAMILY: S1G3.8V8GFEC EVAP FAMILY: S1G1058AYM0D

SPARK PLUG GAP: .060 INCH 38V8GFEU

NO OTHER ADJUSTMENTS NEEDED. (barcode)
SEE SERVICE MANUAL AND MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S. EPA AND CALIFORNIA REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 1995
MODEL-YEAR NEW PASSENGER CARS. IF THIS VEHICLE IS BUILT FOR USE OUTSIDE THE U.S., IT
MAY NOT COMPLY WITH U.S. EPA FUEL LABELING REGULATIONS. PRINTED IN U.S.A.
OBD I CERTIFIED. PT. NO 24504066

I did forget to mention before, when reading codes with the GM OBD I adapter, I had to enter the vehicle into the scan tool as a 1994 (instead of 95), or else it wouldn't read anything.
I have the Equus 3140 Innova scanner. (brand spankin with all the adapters I'll never need)
I can describe the pinout of my car's diagnostic port also (which was OBD II - 16 pin) along with how I hooked my scan tool up to it if you'd like.
I'll also take a look at the wiring condition around the engine tomorrow. I know up by the firewall, they were all beautiful looking.
Thanks again,

Response From Sidom

I probably should've rambled on about the fed & CA cars since it really doesn't matter & just confuses things, but just to clear things up for you, all cars in the US fall under 1 of 2 emissions categories. Federal....49 states & CA cuz well.....there are a lot of nut jobs in high places here...So you can see by the CA on your label, you have a CA car & the OBD I at the bottom indicates it's the older system BUT you have an OBD II DLC and there in lies the problem, this was 1 year only & only on GMs.

Personally I have only seen a few of these systems and never on a CA car.....so thx for that.....(I think????)

So here's where we're at....I don't know if we can trust your scan data....You can "lie" to a scanner & it does work, if say you are only updated to 05, you get in an 06 using the same basic system, you can load it as an 05 & you will be able to pull codes, look at data & even have some bi-directional capabilities. With yours, these are 2 completely different systems the pins on the DLC are different, I'm surprised you got anything doing it that way...

You've pretty much narrowed it down to a pulse problem, you've swept the TPS (I'm assuming the voltage was somewhere around .64 at closed throttle) so that sounds good. You really need to backprobe the connector at the PCM and look at the cmp sensor pattern. Without a scope you could use a volt meter, it should have 5v with the KOEO & vary while cranking but that doesn't mean the pattern is good just there is some kind of signal...

I'm not sure what the LED was but you should also measure voltage at the ign mod & check for varying voltage...

If all that checks out I guess it would be time to bite the bullet & get a PCM for it but this is by no means a 100% diagnosis....I'd be putting it in the range of 50%, personally I wouldn't be comfortable with that (unless I had access to a good tester) but it's your call.... this might help you, also you should backprobe but if you pierce a wire make very sure you seal it or you'll have trouble down the road... The CMP signal is pin RB9 on the red connecter...(footnote 2 is varying voltage)

One quick note.....now that I think about it, the security light isn't on or flashing is it?

Response From gwar

Alright, first, to get my scanner connected, I had to connect pin 5 of my 16 pin car connector to pin A of the OBD I adapter. This was the ground connection. Next I connected pin 9 of the car to pin M of the adapter. This is listed as the "8192 Baud data". Then I set the scanner to 1994 GM with "K" as 8th digit of VIN (it asked that). That's how I got all the codes I posted in first post.

To answer your 2nd question, I got 0.50 volts coming from the TPS when throttle closed. It ramped up very smoothly to 4.36v when wide open.

Next I tested for the CMP signal at the RB9 pin on the red connector from your post. I used the test described at easyautodiagnostics dot com on the GM 3.8L Cam (CMP) Sensor Test page. Previously I did this test along with the 18x and 3x Crank Sensor tests at the ignition module itself. The crank sensor tests used the LED light while you're cranking the engine - you would see the LED blink to the pulse. For the cam test, he has you turn the engine over slowly with a large ratchet on the crank bolt. You should get 5v most of the time, except when the interrupter comes through the sensor, which then the voltage drops to 0. As you turn a little further, you get the 5v back. I verified this at the ign module and at RB9 at the PCM. I also tested Injector grounds and PCM grounds at RB11 - RB13 and they were all good.

As for the security light, it comes on with the rest of the dash when ign is turned on, then goes out. Never saw it flash or come on during normal driving. Not sure what it even means, there is no security system on the car that I know of. Just the resistor in the key.


Images are from obd2allinone dot com.

Response From Sidom

This car does have a security system on it. Without that resistor, the car wouldn't start....

You know something, just for the heck of it, lets do a relearn on this, just for my own piece of mind...

Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together & then hook them back up.

Turn the key to the on/run position (don't crank it) and let it sit in the on position for at least 10 minutes, not 1 second short, longer is no big deal (hook up a charger to be sure the battery doesn't go down).
Then turn the key directly to the start position and see if it starts.

Do this a total of 3 times, each time it doesn't start turn the key all the way (do not disconnect the battery), wait and turn back to the on position without trying to crank it....



Obviously if by some miracle it started on the 1st time, you wouldn't do it the other 2 times

Response From gwar

Ok, tried the relearn procedure you suggested. No change really. It will still run on carb cleaner, but not on its own. Security light goes off after turning key on.

So, if I do need a new computer, I'm not sure how I can really replace it. I looked on RockAuto and found this one for $125, but it has the following note on it:
A-1 CARDONE Part # 773247 Reman. A-1 CARDONE Engine Control Computer; Does not include PROM with Powertrain Control Module; Vehicle specific Flash programming req'd ON or OFF the vehicle. Accurate VIN and mileage are req'd. Additional on-car programming must be performed AFTER install to prevent drivability issues.

So the PROM is the chip? What if it's my chip that's bad? Also, how do I get the flash programming done? And on-car additional programming?

I've also read the FAQ at Cardone and found this:
Before installing an ECM, you must test ALL related circuits on the vehicle to determine which one(s) caused the failure. Use the HOT BOX or a DVOM and measure the resistance at the harness connector. If any values are less than the specified ohms, you must find and fix the cause.
SPECIAL NOTE: THE MOST COMMON CAUSE OF ECM FAILURE IS DUE TO ONE OR MORE OF THE ECM CONTROLLED SOLENOIDS / RELAYS SHORTED
Where can I get a listing of the correct resistance readings of the harness connectors? Should I go through every relay/solenoid on the car? Is there a listing of those?
Guess I've still got a lot of work cut out for myself.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

This is true that the circuits should be checked for shorts, along with the powers & grounds. The one difference here is with most PCM no starts, that's just it, you can't get it to start so you have a lot of manual testing to do..

You can get yours to run and if it runs pretty decent, while not 100%, you know the ign system is good, nothing is pulling down the 5v ref (or it wouldn't run). Really about the only thing out of the loop is the injectors. I would definitely ohm all of them out......My database is down but most GM injectors are in the 12 ohm range. You find one with zero ohms (not to be confused with infinity, that would be an open circuit) & that is a problem

If you want to check the grounds you can see a few on the connector I posted, I can post the other connector once I get my database back if you want to check powers but like I said, you can get it to run on carb clean....so obviously its got power, ground & a 5v ref. You just weren't able to scope anything to verify good patterns.....

Response From Discretesignals

There is no programming the ECM for that one. You just take the PROM out of the old ECM and plug it into the reman ECM.

Response From Hammer Time

This car uses Passkey so there is no relearn procedure for this one. If the security light is on or flashing, it would require a tech2 or equivalent scan tool to diagnose it. It has it's own, separate module for that system.

Response From Discretesignals

Something is fishy here. Disconnecting the battery will clear the computer's memory. If you are getting all those code just by turning the key on after clearing RAM, I'd be suspecting a faulty computer if your scanner is working properly. You got several QDM codes in your list and a couple QDMs run the injector drivers. Some of those codes do not show up in the list. Plus, since it is the switch off year for GM, you should see P codes instead of 2 digit codes.

You really should have someone come by or take it to a shop that has the enhanced scan tool(TECH 2) that can interface that just to verify your getting the correct information as Sidom stated.

350 has me scratching my head

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From klavinblack on 350 has me scratching my head

I have a 1958 Chevy station wagon with a 350 from a 1974 C30 truck. The engine is a create engine that has around 22,000 miles on it. When I start it up it runs good for about 3 minutes, than it starts to sputter and back fire or stall when I give it any gas. I shut it off, wait about 10 minutes and start it, then it runs fine. I get it on the highway up to 70, runs smooth with power. Head back home on city streets and it starts to sputter again, turn it off for a few minutes, start it and it's fine. I haven't given it a compression check to see if its a valve or cam, but if it were, wouldn't always run badly? I have stalled 2 rebuild carbs on it (2 barrel, manual choke), new plugs, wires, distributor cap, points, coil. The dwell was set, timing is right on at 10 degrees. What could it be?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

klavin; What carburetor and distributor are you using? The '74 used a Rochester and HEI distributor. If this is a feedback type carb...Or, could have a control module issue if a stock GM HEI dist....Give us as much info as you can. Choke...Electric? Should be. Is the choke pull-off working? Is the choke opening as the engine warms? So many questions. LOL.

Response From klavinblack

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, but I've been away for a week. The carb is a rebuild Rochester (manual choke). The distributor is not a HEI. I replaced the points last year (maybe 400 miles on them). It also has a new coil and wires. I have a HEI distrib for it, which I think I will install. Do you think I should still give it a compression test? I started it for the first time in two weeks yesterday and it sounded fine. Little story behind the car. I bought it from my friend's brother. It originally had a 348 in it. He took it out to sell it and threw the 350 in, which is a crate engine with 21,000 miles on it. I think he may have put the older distributor in along with a generator to give it that old engine look. WHY? Thanks for responding, I hope what I told you helps.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In order, Mopars went Electronic Ignition in Model year 1973, Ford in 1974 and GM in 1975. There were execptions for special duty in all.

Near sure GM went all HEI (high energy ignition or electronic=no points) starting model year 1975. I don't think changing it now with a problem with points is a good idea till that can work and the points can work fine.

What was the engine intended for or do you know in what the 21,000 miles was used in? If points as they should be you'll need at least a feeler gauge or better a dwell tack. Spec is 30 degrees - dwell.

I think all the HEIs had an aluminum or metal door and a screw (Allen headed) to adjust points if needed. A dwell tach would tell if the contact ohms are good or useless.

More on points. They sold a "UniSet" where the condenser was attached and one piece to the set which was handy.

I'll go find the feeler gauge spec now as you probably don't have a dwell tach. The bumper (nylon) must be at the top of the 8 sided cam it rides on of the points which then show the largest gap. There should be NO visable metal transfer showing which would look like a peak and valley that matched one to the other - say so if noted.

OK - by feeler the spec should be .019 and was for about all GM V8s. Err to larger if tricky to adjust as they get closer with use.

Turn crankshaft bolt if needed or click starter quickly to get bumper riding cam on top of a cam lobe.

The "Back Firing" is a clue of points all screwed up or timing way off and a bunch of other possiblilities. It's old and low miles is nice but not an assurance that it doesn't need things.

Need to know points are ok first. Get it running and worry about HEI later. I'd forget it but that is up to you.

Any more info on this engine will help. When was it last running - any info on it at all,

T

PS: Loren knows this distributor just the year when they switched from points could be different on that engine if it was for other than routinely made vehicles. If marine it could be a whole different set up and will be a pest to use in a vehicle now.......

Response From klavinblack

The engine was in a C-30 pickup. My friend bought the truck from the school department in Rhode Island. I guess the original engine pooped out and it was replaced with a new crate engine. I live in Pittsburgh now, the car was driven here from Rhode Island when I bought it 2 years ago. As for the points, I checked them with my dwell meter and they are fine. at 30. The timing is at 10 degrees. It runs like a charm most of the time. It's just sometimes when I start it I can count to 3 minutes and that's when it starts running rough. If I give it gas it either stalls or backfires. Then I shut it off, wait about 5 minutes and it's fine. Take it on the highway and I'm moving, smooth, but eventually it will run rough again. I'll stop, turn it off, wait about 5 minutes and start it, suddenly it's running great again. When it's running I can look into the carb, give it gas and see the jets working fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Great - that helps. I don't even see dwell meters out there anymore. Mine shows how good the contact is when the points touch. Wish I knew the ohm reading which really should be infinate or close.

The manual choke conversion is a nightmare area. If you can seek out the parts to make that automatic again you'll love it. It must be known NOW that if you put of OFF it's really wide open as tugging hard on a cable choke on a carb meant to be automatic choke if not exactly right will pull on cable as it can't climb the fast idle step cam unless every person who drives it know to hold the gas pedal down while setting the manual choke. It may have streched or lost adjustment - just see that it opens fully.

The stall and backfire could be spark issues or the carb over or less likely under fueling. An old trick was to tap (plastic handle or hammer) lightly right where fuel filter goes into carb and the common stuck needle valve might just snap to. Watch out if all wet with gas at a spark there is easy to make a fire.

It can run smooth for a while. Need to know if engine is fully warm or just time. It would tolerate too much fuel while cold/cool then start acting up. If totally flooding and wet that's floats, choke, needle valve usually all of which are trouble areas by age never mind miles.

Floats can sink or be heavy from being soaked in fuel. If so fuel level in bowl would be too high and always run rich - way too rich sometimes.

Gotta go soon for a while but other common crap with the age are things like ..... distributor vacuum advance, fuel pump rubber giving out, carb gaskets that hate the alcohol in much fuel used now,
vacuum leaks on vacuum trees or broken trees. Thermal sensor to pick up hot air off exhaust may be stuck to hot exhaust always which is too hot when warm. You could do without that at all just less chance of running perfectly faster from cold starts.

Can't be sure for a truck engine but the cam gear of timing chain at 21,000 miles might still be in there. Age alone if so is probably throwing chunks off of it and might jump off time and back on somehow by miricle can jump back to correct. Hard to know without looking at it if that type.

If this isn't a fuel issue but probably is the distributor shaft bushings could be worn. Low miles or not they may have had extended short runs and the oil didn't get time to keep them lubed. That will show with your dwell meter alone or moving shaft and looking at points how much more they might open if pushed that direction. By dwell meter the dwell would change by more than 5 degress - an indicator of worn distributor shaft bushings.

One more maybe for now. This may use a heat riser on exhaust manifold stuck shut. It if equipped would be a heat sensitive spring with a weight acting like a choke for exhaust. It should be freely moving - HOT - so test movement when cold. If stuck and was designed into that engine it shoots hot exhaust thru one exhaust manifold to the other really warming up intake manifold but must open and chill out as way too hot would fire incoming fuel too easy - hence backfires.

That's a bit of junk to test out and look at. If it's been running rich and for a while now spark plugs would be taking a hit and fouling up fast too.

Enough for the moment. Loren may have some ideas too as he's a senior member of the OPC (old phart club) a point where we knew this stuff new and now fighting to remember - oh just laugh,

Tom

Response From klavinblack

Thanks a lot. I'll check out some of those things and see if I can put this to rest.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

klavin; Without going back and re-reading all of the posts..... Ten BTDC sounds a bit much. I'd slide it back to about 6. (with the vacuum advance disconnected from vacuum source). With the timing light hooked up, rev the engine to 2000 rpm and recheck the timing (again, without the vacuum advance) checking the centrifugal advance. Take the reading and post it. Then, reconnect the vacuum advance and take the readings at idle and 2000 rpm and post them (should be in the neighborhood of 35 degrees, total). Another thing I'd want to check is valve lash. You could very easily have a tight valve which will be worse as the engine warms. Small block Chevs are easy to adjust. With the engine running at normal operating temp, loosen the first rocker arm until you hear it clicking. Tighten just enough to where the clicking stops. Then, in 1/4 increments, tighten one full turn. Do this to each rocker arm. (3/4 turn is usually sufficient). The engine will likely falter and maybe even die as you are cranking down. If you do it slowly, you'll be fine. This shouldn't happen on an engine with 21K miles, but small block Chevs are know for the cam lobes going flat, usually on #7 or #8. You should check to make sure that the rocker arms are getting full travel on those cylinders, especially. A flat cam lobe will cause a backfire under acceleration. At temp, connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum. Take a reading at idle. Raise the rpm to 2500 and take another reading. The guage should be steady, as in the needle not 'bouncing', and the reading should be as great or greater than it was a idle.
With all of this said, I'm assuming (I hate that word..lol) that all of the secondary is okay (plug, wires, cap, rotor, points, condensor) and you have good coil output. Hard to check without a scope.

Response From klavinblack

Thanks Loren, I'll check all that out and hopefully solve this thing. I'm working on my kitchen at the same time, so I have to sneak out to the garage without my wife seeing me. I guess she has figured out that I'm having an affair with a 58 Chevy.