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Best Selling Genuine Kia Fan Clutches

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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Kia Replacement Fan Clutch Parts

We stock Fan Clutch parts for most Kia models, including Sportage.

Genuine
1995 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Genuine

P311-43383BC    W0133-1610289  New

Qty:
$98.68
Genuine Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Fan Blade with fan Clutch Fan hub OD = 190 mm; Fan blade OD = 385 mm. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Kia Sportage
GMB
1995 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-1CD9996    W0133-1610289  New

Qty:
$161.24
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • with Fan Blade with fan Clutch Fan hub OD = 190 mm; Fan blade OD = 385 mm. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Kia Sportage
GMB
1997 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-1CD9996    W0133-1610289  New

Qty:
$161.24
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Production: -08/1996, with Fan Blade with fan Clutch Fan hub OD = 190 mm; Fan blade OD = 385 mm. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Kia Sportage To:08-00-96
Genuine
1997 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Genuine

P311-43383BC    W0133-1610289  New

Qty:
$98.68
Genuine Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1996, with Fan Blade with fan Clutch Fan hub OD = 190 mm; Fan blade OD = 385 mm. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Kia Sportage To:08-00-96
Genuine
2001 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Genuine - with fan blade

P311-0CEA0F8    W0133-1659772  New

Qty:
$190.50
Genuine Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/21/2001-, with Fan Blade with fan Clutch Hub ID is 195 mm; Fan blade OD is 430 mm. OE # on fan blade flange/rim is 0K038-15-142. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
  • with fan blade
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2001 - Kia Sportage Fr:06-21-01
Genuine
2002 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Genuine - with fan blade

P311-0CEA0F8    W0133-1659772  New

Qty:
$190.50
Genuine Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Fan Blade with fan Clutch Hub ID is 195 mm; Fan blade OD is 430 mm. OE # on fan blade flange/rim is 0K038-15-142. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
  • with fan blade
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Kia Sportage
Genuine
2002 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Genuine - with fan blade

P311-33B3A4C    W0133-1612151  New

Qty:
$267.86
Genuine Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/2001, with Fan Blade to 06-20-01 with fan Clutch Hub OD = 190 mm; Fan blade OD = 410 mm. OE dealer does NOT sell the fan clutch alone. Must buy the fan assembly or the fan blade only.
  • with fan blade
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Kia Sportage To:06-00-01
Beck Arnley
1996 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 4 Cyl 2.0L Beck Arnley

P311-5C0F3C3    130-0190  New

Qty:
$59.58
Beck Arnley Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • FAN CLUTCH UNIT
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Beck Arnley
2001 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 4 Cyl 2.0L Beck Arnley

P311-0A42B91    130-0188  New

Qty:
$66.70
Beck Arnley Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • FAN CLUTCH UNIT
  • To 6/21/01
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Beck Arnley
2000 Kia Sportage Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 4 Cyl 2.0L Beck Arnley

P311-0A42B91    130-0188  New

Qty:
$66.70
Beck Arnley Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • FAN CLUTCH UNIT
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998

Latest Kia Repair and Fan Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 Kia Sportage start and idle problems

Showing 10 out of 10 Posts
Question From usmc2037 on 2000 Kia Sportage start and idle problems

Have a 2000 Kia Sportage with a 2.0 DOHC engine. Recently replaced headgasket after car overheated due to bad fan clutch. Fuel pump has also been replaced. The engine still has the same problem as it had after it overheated. Very difficult to start. Have to pump the gas pedal like it has a carb instead of fuel injection. After getting it started it runs but is rough(seems to run smoother at higher rpms). It will then go dead once the engine warms up and it goes to low idle. As long as the rpms are kept high the engine will run, but let the rpms go down and it will die. Any help would be appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Start by taking a hard look at what had to be unplugged, wires, vac hoses etc., and see if any were left unplugged or damaged. Good luck,

Response From usmc2037

Thanks for the advice, already did the check several times. The intake manifold, cylinder head, and exhaust manifold came off as a single unit, just a few wires on the back of the valve cover gasket, a hose and a ground wire to disconnect that are not in plain site. By the way, while I had it all apart, put in new plugs and wires since you have to take the breather assembly off the top of the engine to get to them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If the rough running seems regular it is probably isolated to one cylinder. Feel for the exhaust flow out tailpipe. If it has a steady "putt" it's generally one cyl. Pull plug wires one at a time, the problem cylinder won't make as much change as the others. Check plug and wire (even new stuff happens). With cooler engine spray window cleaner on wires, dist cap or coil pack - one at a time - changes noted indicate trouble there and sometimes you even see arcing.

If a random rough condition - vacuum leaks are common. Spray carb cleaner around intake manifold gasket and any suspect area - changes noted are a problem spot. Use all care as some carb/throttle body cleaners can catch fire - be ready and best done with a cooler engine, but that trick works pretty good.

You had an over heating problem and lots of things don't like that. There is probably an idle speed motor - see if it moves to raise idle when engine is about to stall. It's there to keep idle constant like with added load from A/C or hard use of power steering.

If you didn't send the head out to a machine shop there are more not so nice possiblilties. Let's not go there yet. Keep at it, hope you find something simple, I'm with you here,

Response From usmc2037

Thought I could get away with the head not going to shop, famous last words of many a repair. I'll try the new procedures this weekend. Then I'm going to be out of touch for a couple of weeks before I can try any new suggestions. I appreciate your time and effort in my project.

Response From usmc2037

Finally got out to work on her again, did a compression test, wet and dry. Dry compression for cyclinders 1-4 was 85psi, 44psi, 55psi and 85psi. Wet compression test for cyclinders 1-4 was 95psi, 52psi, 65psi, and 90psi. I read this that I have problems with the heads due to the low compression psi in cyclinders 2 and 3. Should the rise in the compression on all the cyclinders after the wet test be of concern or is the rise is pressure about right due to the wet test. Any comments welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The "wet" test is really to check Rings. All #s are too low! - could just be the way test was done but the #s should be within about 10% of each other. A head gasket could be at fault, but I would think you'd have more troubles is that was the whole problem. Doesn't look encouraging sorry to say,

Response From usmc2037

Thanks for the info. The test was done by removing the plugs(all 4) and then, using a new craftsman compression tester, I screwed in the compression tester hose and turned the engine over several times until the compression gauge needle did not rise any further on the gauge. I then went on to the other cyclinders in sequence. I was not able to find what the compression numbers should of been, even have a book with specs and it doesn't say. Guess its time to start looking at a complete rebuild.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't mind exact #s as much as how close they are to each other. Two cyl side by side can be a head or head gasket. If they are away from each other it's less likely.

These sites are awesome but get some local assistance. A model year 2000 needing an engine is early in my opinion! Good grief --I own stuff decades older that's still fine?? It's worth some $ to check this out, good luck,

Response From usmc2037

Thanks for all the advice, did some looking around, cheapest I could get the heads rebuilt was close to $600. Seems like a lot of money but others wanted more than that. The local machine shop I have sent heads to over the years was bought out due to retirement and then closed. So if I am going to spend $600 for the heads and $80 for the gasket etc.. I might as well put it on a good block. Got the shop I buy remanufactured short blocks to redo the engine and heads, take out and install as well as tow for $2000 and got 36,000, 36 month warrenty on the work. So to get the wifes car running I let them do the work. Once again, thanks for all the encouragement and advice.

Heat gauge shooting up when using AC?

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From JudeGreyH on Heat gauge shooting up when using AC?

Hello:

I hope this is in the right spot!

I just purchased a 98 Kia sportage 4x4 last week. It has approximately 95k miles on the engine (2.0), had a new exhaust system installed, a new oil cooler installed (apparently, it has a tow package, and there was a massive oil leak from the bottom of it), and a variety of other parts repaired or replaced before purchase. Before I got it, it had been sitting for a while not being used... a couple of months at least. When the mechanic had it, they had apparently checked all the fluid levels and pronounced them fine.

Today was my first day ever taking the thing out onto the highway. I have driven it around the city for the past couple of days, though. It seemed to do great... The heat gauge remained just below the middle tick and stayed there, even after running the engine at around 65 miles an hour for about 40 minutes. The engine issurprisingly quiet... no knocks, pings, or rattles. However, when I turned the AC on at a red light, the heat gauge immediately started creeping up... and fast. I pulled over, stopped the car, and checked to make sure it wasn't overheating, but it didn't seem to be. As soon as I turned the AC off, the gauge went right back down to where it had been all morning. The AC is pumping cold air, though seems sort of weeny, power-wise, but as I just got this car, I am not sure how powerful the AC is supposed to be.

The dude had replaced the dashboard and door panels before I got it, and I am having some other issues with shorts here and there, namely the windows and door locks, with occasional buzzing on the driver's side door stereo speaker. Everything on the dash is working (Radio, clock, signals, lights, etc). It doesn't seem to be a thermostat issue, and I am hearing the fan kick on, though honestly I wasn't paying super a lot of attention when I was trying to figure out what was going on with the heat gauge. Initial research suggests that this might be due to an airbubble in the coolant system, possibly? Or a fan short? Essentially, I am a newbie in terms of self-repair, but just dumped a lot of cash into this sucker to get it driveable. It seems to do perfectly fine when the AC isn't on, and there doesn't seem to be any leakages underneath. Should I try to burp the radiator? Or replace the fan? There was also the suggestion that it might be due to a bad battery? Any thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time

Exactly how much hotter did it get? Did it go all the way to the red zone?

Did the fans come on and stay on when the AC was turned on?

Was the air cold at idle?

Response From JudeGreyH

Boy, I hope this isn't a seriously bad issue, Tom Greenleaf! I am hoping I just have a short somewhere!

Hammer Time-

I didn't let it get super high before I turned it off. I general, the truck has been maintaining the heat gauge at a little below the middle tick for the entire time it has been running, no fluctuation. When I ran the AC for a couple of minutes, it started shooting right up. I let it get to the second tick above the middle line before I shut the AC off and pulled over to check the radiator. When I turned it off, the needle dropped right back down to where it had been all morning... just slightly before the middle tick. The radiator wasn't boiling or spitting and the engine sounded fine. (I am well acquainted with overheated radiators... my old truck overheated if you looked at it funny.) I didn't want to let it get up too high before turning the ac off, as I didn't want to blow anything.

As a note, before I bought this thing, I had it checked over by a certified mechanic and it passed state inspection, if that helps rule out any big things. Essentially, I needed something to drive in a hurry... this little Kia was reasonably priced and in decent shape.

As for the fans... I am not 100% sure if they kicked on for the entire time. I know they do seem to be running, but I am planning on checking that out this morning. The AC does run and blow cold air at idle, though, as I mentioned previously, it doesn't seem to have a lot of power behind it. I am not terrible confident in the guy I bought it from's ability to install a dashboard, though.

Also this didn't seem to be a problem before I got my oil cooler replaced a few days ago. They also replaced both battery terminals at the same time.

Response From Hammer Time

You may have no problem at all. We need to find out just how hot it will get because it is normal for the AC to cause it to run a little hotter, especially in slower traffic. I would leave it on to see what it does. As long as it doesn't go into the red area of the gauge, you are safe.

Response From JudeGreyH

Ok! I will try that today and report back!

It could be that I am just super paranoid... I have been having nothing but bad luck with cars, and I drive a lot for my job, so I really need this thing to keep rolling!

I am still planning on checking the coolant levels this morning, just in case I do have an air bubble somewhere in the system, and was planning on having my battery tested anyway, as it looks a bit old.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry if I did seem bit worried about this vehicle right out of the gate had some issues that I would have rejected this one but that's history so let's get this heat/overheat understood.


Hammer Time just said and agree it could be normal but not if spiking into "red" zone on the gauge. You mentioned that the battery could be causing this by someone's suggestion and NO that isn't the up front issue so stop listening to that but sure have it cleaned and tested so you know it's good or not. Once running it's mostly going along for the ride if charging system is fine and must be as you would be having no start issues already.


I do worry about a dash being all apart and poorly put back in place properly.


About a bubble in cooling system: Probably not by now if you are checking level and now stable for the temp chances are it has purged out any air (if any) was in it from opening it up for any reason. True low coolant or air generally shows right up as a problem A/C or not.


Don't guess but know fans are operating correctly for low speed operation and use of A/C -- many vehicles fans will come on full power with A/C request at any temp - some wait and don't know which each model of what does what but none made to really overheat over it.


Note that A/C is making heat while providing cool so a strain on a cooling system if marginal it would show up more when in use,


T

Response From JudeGreyH

Thanks for all of your suggestions! This is not a problem I have dealt with before, so I am a little lost, and just going from what I have found out in internet research over the problem.

If it is a fan, I think I can probably replace it on my own. I'll check on whether or not it's kicking on for the full time wiith the AC running.

I will report back with my findings!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

a new oil cooler installed (apparently, it has a tow package, and there was a massive oil leak from the bottom of it)

Engine oil cooler or transmission oil cooler? If it has a cooler in front of the condenser, did they clean the condenser and radiator fins out? Sometime you get oil on the fins and they become plugged with dirt and road debris.

Also the Sportage has an engine driven fan. The electrical fan is used for the condenser. Probably would be a good idea to check the operation of the fan clutch and make sure the shroud is intact. If original, the 16 year old fan clutch is probably worn out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good thought and ideas DS no surprise coming from you. I didn't know this uses a fan clutch and they plain are NOT real good after a few years never mind if original. Does seem HD stuff everywhere with tow package, oil cooler and so on.


Fan for condenser (one up front of everything no doubt) may be poor, inoperative or if replaced some end up spinning the wrong way - easy to check for that and would cause some wild problems getting air thru but doesn't explain why A/C still blow cool enough?


Some checking to do as already said, Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In short - pay attention to it. I could be a two speed fan, one fan or two fans and not sure what would be used depending on what it came with new. IDK if HD cooling was an option that would change the way it should be working. Nothing beats being there vs the web at it's best isn't competing with hands on observations. Again - it's high on the list of things to pay strict attention to, that all,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Too late now but should have passed up that car and any should have been checked out prior to purchase. IMO the up front issue is overheating needs correcting. Either fan(s) aren't working properly or radiator or other things are not capable of the extra heat load of using A/C.


Whatever it takes you must tend to potential serious overheating or IMO it's game over for this car. Cheap car when new, now old in need of lots some not just usual age and use but screwed up it sure seems.


? Is it really overheating or just normally running warmer with A/C which could be normal. If that's not normal heat is an engine killer and this would exceed if it failed being a disaster for this car,


T