Shop Discount Fan Clutches

The clutch is held on by four extra long bolts that pass through the fan clutch housing, a spacer, and into the water pump spindle housing. Using an open end wrench does it, could be a 1/2", 10ml, or even 7/16" head. My favorite type wrench has a ratchet built into a box head configeration, but sometimes you can't get the box end around the bolt head so you have to use an open end style wrench. Depending on your workable space an offset can help greatly in setting the wrench.

Good Luck

Thanks Guys, Thats alot of good information, It has made this job alot easier. Now on to the next job (same S-10 ), It looks like the intake manifold is leaking next to the head on the drivers side. Is there anything else you guys can let me in on before I start would be great! Thanks again.

Mark the exact position of the distributor and rotor very carefully and don't let the engine move while it's out. It requires a tech2 scan tool to adjust that if you get it in wrong and you will have a constant check engine light.

It's not the timing that changes, it's the injector synch that changes.
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Some questions and comments: ZERO is cold enough of course. Handy as it is I don't like starting a vehicle unattended.


I'd check what was already done. Belt(s) pulleys new or not may have failed already.


What was cleaned and how? Cleaning an engine if that's what you meant is a bad idea and worse if cold out.


The video of someone else's problem isn't helping for yours.


Engine need those plugs taken out and OE spec and brand put in. If engine is misfiring bad enough causing noises it should have thrown a code.


Issues with ice up to icicles that can touch ground from heated engine when parked and snow or ice was on vehicle should quit right away or could really break something if in the wrong places and only looking.


This noise continued so my guess is something broke,


T

Need a link to the video of your vehicle, so we can hear what it sounds like.

oh all the parts that were installed and cleaned were not installed to try to fix the noise. I made that list just to give as much info as possible. all of those parts and cleanings were installed/completed above 60 degrees F. additionally I have told 3 mechanics about the spark plugs I installed and they do like OEM parts but they were fine with them.


I had a suggestion elsewhere that it might be the flex plate dragging or contacting something. will have a look at that soon.


posting a video of my own will take a while, very little time to spare atm.


also thank you for the responses so far.

This post not much help just some notes and questions: I live this weather and it's routine for temps alone with or without a wild assortment of types of snow. Light fluff to crushed ice or even chunks if already plowed can harden plenty to break parts.


* Are you familiar with the conditions or is this all new to you?
* Rubber anything can get very hard. Oils anywhere thicker even inside shocks and struts. You can get a creek or harmless sound when first moved but it goes away - yours didn't apparently.


* Plastics at some point and type get brittle and crack or break.


? What viscosity oil are you using? It matters!


T

reading the post I have some questions, thoughts.

I see BOSCH plugs amd a air filter something - these are problematic - (polite for POS). anything else that is not OEM?

You did NOT mention engine codes- or if the CEL works.... a scan is a place to start.

I am suspecting this vehicle is not babied. you cancheck oil - and particles in oil, pull dip stick they will appear as metal flake - a silver paint look in oil.... what is pressure,gauge the same reading ?

Are you familiar with using a dowel, screwdriver, to help locate source of sound- engine top. bbottom, front rear etc?

I agree with everyone here, on using OE ignition; but I don't think this is a plug issue. There's no mention of a check engine light and they have said it runs fine.
They did say that the noise goes away sometimes and comes back when slowing down.
So with that I'm guessing it might be a broken starter drive return spring. When accelerating the gear will be pushed back away from the flywheel. When braking the drive will slide up against the flywheel and make enough noise to scare anyone.
The first time I ran into this was with a front wheel drive GM. It would only make this erratic scrapping shrieking sound on right turns. Wasn't that a crazy time diagnosing. LOL
We found it by letting the vehicle idle and 4 guys rocking the car as hard as we could from side to side.
Every time the right side was higher then the left we got the noise. Pulled the inspection cover and there was the drive happily siding back and forth on the armature shaft.

Dan.

DanD described what happens with the noise perfectly.


here is some info you guys wanted:


K&N cold air intake


I use a mechanics stethoscope to locate any noise sources - it's how I found the two bad belt tensioner bearings
not familiar with the dowel rod and screwdriver method
checked the oil, full, no strange color or metal shrapnel


the vehicle was previously ( according to the dealership ) driven by a soccer mom, I can honestly say I don't drive like a maniac either, especially in this cold weather recently. I try to keep to low rpms with this cold weather we have been having.


no warning lights what so ever on the dash
I am going to ask my uncle tomorrow who has been a mechanic for 30+ years fixing equipment for fire/police/ambulance departments. He has a code reader to see if anything is up.


I know you guys are really on about those spark plugs but I have had them in for 3.5 years and have had no issue with them, includes a trip to Florida (no stops except to eat and restroom), and 2 trips to North Carolina ( also no stops except to eat ). additionally if the plugs were misfiring or had a bent pin I would have to think the engine would run rough, very rough. I have not turned it on since the noise started but performance was not affected.

I always like Dan's thinking. Yes the what I'll call "piggy back" solenoid and starter drive very well could even stick and not retract far enough or perhaps at all would really make a wild noise and probably wreck the ring gear also called flywheel gear.


They are spring loaded to retract and lubed. Lube could be like gum? If retracting spring plain broke then it would care much anymore about temperatures and stay doing it.


That listening with a rod thing for noises/bearings is plain dangerous. I do it and so far haven't shot a 30" screwdriver thru the side of my head touching a moving part improperly. Use a stethoscope and save the dangerous stuff/tricks/shortcuts for those aware of the risks IMO.


If that's it you could possibly see it thru inspection plate or take starter out to check that out,


T

oil coolant line came loose and was caught by the radiator fan


caused a smell so will watch to make sure the clutch in the fan is still good.

OK - you found the reason. Fix that now. Is that for engine oil, transmission fluid or what? Check that level NOW or all of them.


Fan/fan clutch. Who knows but the fan blades if they were (sure seems like it) touching something need to be very carefully inspected or just replaced. If those are out of balance or damaged that would be the next problem down the road. If clutch driven clutch may be fine but hurt by imbalance. Domino effect of problems possible from one thing that caused it. Seems you are early so try to limit the possible troubles right now.


? What broke that allowed lines to move? Fix that and know they can't just rub on things where held or with each other along their route,


T

some brackets broke from rust. a quick zip tie for now holds it back enough to not hit the fan.


fan is fine

thats great news- thanks for the follow up.

My favorite easy and inexpensive

I'm going to close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can reopen it upon request.

Bosch plugs cannot be used in that vehicle. They will not run correctly and cause numerous problems. Use only Delco in that engine.

Old thread, but here is how I did it. I took a piece of scrap steel I had laying around. Maybe 8"L x 2"W -- put some whiteout on 2 of the bolts in the pully. press bar against it to mark spot. Drilled 2 3/8" holes thru bar as marked. Then pulled out the two bolts and bolted my bar back onto the pully. Then you can hold it in place while you wrestle the fan clutch free (I used a very large adj. wrench). Good luck

Good idea thanks much. D B Rich

they have one on ebay for 20 dollars Item number: 200182156177. 12 available.