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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Fan Clutches

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ALLMAKES 4X4
Qty:
$116.83
ALLMAKES 4X4 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Non US carbureted only
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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Vehicle
1993 - Land Rover Defender 110
APA/URO Parts
Qty:
$98.72
APA/URO Parts Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • M30 X 1.5
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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1997 - Land Rover Defender 90
APA/URO Parts
Qty:
$98.72
APA/URO Parts Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Eng: 36D25155B-
  • M30 X 1.5
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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Vehicle
1993 - Land Rover Range Rover
APA/URO Parts
Qty:
$98.72
APA/URO Parts Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Eng: 40D09582B-
  • M30 X 1.5
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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Vehicle
1995 - Land Rover Range Rover
ALLMAKES 4X4
Qty:
$335.15
ALLMAKES 4X4 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • with Fan Blade
  • w/Fan Blade
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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Vehicle
1996 - Land Rover Range Rover
ALLMAKES 4X4
Qty:
$335.15
ALLMAKES 4X4 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • W/ Fan Blade
  • w/Fan Blade
  • W/ Fan Blade
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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1998 - Land Rover Discovery
APA/URO Parts
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$140.12
APA/URO Parts Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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2001 - Land Rover Discovery
Four Seasons
Qty:
$89.17
Four Seasons Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: Four Seasons
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Vehicle
1987 - Land Rover Range Rover
Four Seasons
Qty:
$89.17
Four Seasons Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Eng: -36D25154B
Brand: Four Seasons
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Vehicle
1993 - Land Rover Range Rover
Four Seasons
Qty:
$89.17
Four Seasons Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Eng: -40D09581B
Brand: Four Seasons
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Vehicle
1995 - Land Rover Range Rover
NPW
1987 Mazda B2200 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch NPW

P311-5B2FC9B    New

Qty:
$186.94
NPW Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: NPW
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1987 - Mazda B2200
GMB
1984 Mazda B2000 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-26E3E93    New

Qty:
$78.83
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Production: 12/1984-
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle
1984 - Mazda B2000
NPW
1984 Mazda B2000 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch NPW

P311-24AC97F    New

Qty:
$159.53
NPW Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Production: 12/1984-
Brand: NPW
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Vehicle
1984 - Mazda B2000
GMB
1986 Mazda B2000 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-26E3E93    New

Qty:
$78.83
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle
1986 - Mazda B2000
NPW
1986 Mazda B2000 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch NPW

P311-24AC97F    New

Qty:
$159.53
NPW Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: NPW
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Vehicle
1986 - Mazda B2000
GMB
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-3FA091E    New

Qty:
$184.19
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle
1997 - Ford Explorer
GMB
2003 Ford Excursion Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-3F0B4AE    New

Qty:
$124.86
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle
2003 - Ford Excursion
GMB
1993 Mazda MPV Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-5C8ED0E    New

Qty:
$85.86
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MPV
NPW
1993 Mazda MPV Engine Cooling Fan Clutch NPW

P311-3F0CC5E    New

Qty:
$171.09
NPW Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: NPW
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Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MPV
NPW
1996 Mazda MPV Engine Cooling Fan Clutch NPW

P311-382BB7B    New

Qty:
$166.45
NPW Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • w/o Towing Package
Brand: NPW
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Vehicle
1996 - Mazda MPV

Latest Fan Clutch Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

How do I remove the fan clutch using the tool kit?

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on How do I remove the fan clutch using the tool kit?

I have the kit to remove the fan clutch but I can't figure out how to use it. IT is a 1997 GMS Sonoma Vortec V6

Response From HYdrogen_on_Demand

The clutch is held on by four extra long bolts that pass through the fan clutch housing, a spacer, and into the water pump spindle housing. Using an open end wrench does it, could be a 1/2", 10ml, or even 7/16" head. My favorite type wrench has a ratchet built into a box head configeration, but sometimes you can't get the box end around the bolt head so you have to use an open end style wrench. Depending on your workable space an offset can help greatly in setting the wrench.

Good Luck

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

I believe this vehicle has the fan clutch with the hub nut that requires a special tool to hold the pulley while breaking loose/removing the fan hub nut.

Tool looks like this.....


Loosen the hub nut in a counterclockwise rotation..

Jim

Response From way2old

Click here. According to this, you do not need the special tools.

1999 S-10 Fan Clutch

Showing 6 out of 8 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1999 S-10 Fan Clutch

I have a 1999 chevy S-10 with the 4300 V-6 Vortec motor. I'm trying to replace the waterpump. The problem is takeng the fan clutch off , do you have to unscrew the fan clutch from the waterpump before you take the four bolts out. Also which way would you turn it ?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Yes, you must remove the fan clutch, first. Leave the serpentine belt in place. Using the correct wrench for the large nut, smack the end of the wrench very hard and quick (counter clockwise). There is a tool that is used to hold the pulley while you loosen the nut and is available at most parts stores. / The large one fits around the bolts that hold the fan clutch to the pulley while the smaller one fits the large nut on the clutch, itself. Price: $25.00
Warranty:
3 MO

Response From Guest

Loren, Thanks for the information, they kinda leave some of the how do's out of the books. I've been trying to hammer that thing off for two days, and I can't get it to even budge. thanks again

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Yes, you are right. They will tell you to remove this, or that. Just won't tell you how to remove this or that.

Response From Sidom

When you go to put it back together, before you put the belt on. If you hold the fan clutch on the pulley & spin the pulley backwards to start the threads instead of spinning the clutch assembly forwards, it makes it easier to start the threads....

Response From Guest

Thanks Guys, Thats alot of good information, It has made this job alot easier. Now on to the next job (same S-10 ), It looks like the intake manifold is leaking next to the head on the drivers side. Is there anything else you guys can let me in on before I start would be great! Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

Mark the exact position of the distributor and rotor very carefully and don't let the engine move while it's out. It requires a tech2 scan tool to adjust that if you get it in wrong and you will have a constant check engine light.

It's not the timing that changes, it's the injector synch that changes.
.
.
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.
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Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back to fan clutch for a moment: May take a different tool with an air hammer - they are a PITA sometimes,

T

PS: Nice pic of Vette Hammer Time!

chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From someguy214 on chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

2002
Chevrolet
trailblazer
4.2 L vortec iL6 24valve
115,000 miles
when leaving work with temps below 0 I started my trailblazer and let it sit for say 2 min ( I used my remote start so it was running for a little bit before I got to it.) got in and checked the gauges as usual when its below 0 and they looked fine. backed out and heard/felt a bang. thought I might have hit the car next to me but I was 5 feet away from it. figured the noise was ice falling off from underneath that I ran over.

got to the first red light I felt a vibration in the gas peddle, which is normal in the cold when I start driving at first. gauges still fine.

got to another light about a mile down the road, the vibration in the gas peddle got my attention and I turned down my heat and heard this awful noise coming from the engine. gauges still normal.

this is not my video or car but this is the noise it makes. however when mine makes this noise it does not seem to be as consistent in timing, it's more random. it is also louder, I got home and my parents came outside to see what in the world was happening.

link deleted ........................ not allowed FORUM RULES

while driving I noticed at certain rpms (low ones seeing as how I didn't want to go higher) the noise would sometimes slow and stop then return as I left off the gas. no change in engine performance otherwise. exhaust sounds the same.

here are the things that have already been replaced / cleaned in the engine:

replaced:
belt tensioner pulley
belt tensioner (bearing on the other side)
went through 3 belts
6 sparks plugs (bosch platinum 4 pin)
oil cooler lines
power steering lines
air intake (by choice, it gives better gas millage)

cleaned:
throttle body
air intake
fuel injectors ( by local shop )

115,000 miles

the video says its a bad rod bearing but I like to believe its not haha.
any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some questions and comments: ZERO is cold enough of course. Handy as it is I don't like starting a vehicle unattended.


I'd check what was already done. Belt(s) pulleys new or not may have failed already.


What was cleaned and how? Cleaning an engine if that's what you meant is a bad idea and worse if cold out.


The video of someone else's problem isn't helping for yours.


Engine need those plugs taken out and OE spec and brand put in. If engine is misfiring bad enough causing noises it should have thrown a code.


Issues with ice up to icicles that can touch ground from heated engine when parked and snow or ice was on vehicle should quit right away or could really break something if in the wrong places and only looking.


This noise continued so my guess is something broke,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Need a link to the video of your vehicle, so we can hear what it sounds like.

Response From someguy214

oh all the parts that were installed and cleaned were not installed to try to fix the noise. I made that list just to give as much info as possible. all of those parts and cleanings were installed/completed above 60 degrees F. additionally I have told 3 mechanics about the spark plugs I installed and they do like OEM parts but they were fine with them.


I had a suggestion elsewhere that it might be the flex plate dragging or contacting something. will have a look at that soon.


posting a video of my own will take a while, very little time to spare atm.


also thank you for the responses so far.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This post not much help just some notes and questions: I live this weather and it's routine for temps alone with or without a wild assortment of types of snow. Light fluff to crushed ice or even chunks if already plowed can harden plenty to break parts.


* Are you familiar with the conditions or is this all new to you?
* Rubber anything can get very hard. Oils anywhere thicker even inside shocks and struts. You can get a creek or harmless sound when first moved but it goes away - yours didn't apparently.


* Plastics at some point and type get brittle and crack or break.


? What viscosity oil are you using? It matters!


T

Response From kev2

reading the post I have some questions, thoughts.

I see BOSCH plugs amd a air filter something - these are problematic - (polite for POS). anything else that is not OEM?

You did NOT mention engine codes- or if the CEL works.... a scan is a place to start.

I am suspecting this vehicle is not babied. you cancheck oil - and particles in oil, pull dip stick they will appear as metal flake - a silver paint look in oil.... what is pressure,gauge the same reading ?

Are you familiar with using a dowel, screwdriver, to help locate source of sound- engine top. bbottom, front rear etc?

Response From DanD

I agree with everyone here, on using OE ignition; but I don't think this is a plug issue. There's no mention of a check engine light and they have said it runs fine.
They did say that the noise goes away sometimes and comes back when slowing down.
So with that I'm guessing it might be a broken starter drive return spring. When accelerating the gear will be pushed back away from the flywheel. When braking the drive will slide up against the flywheel and make enough noise to scare anyone.
The first time I ran into this was with a front wheel drive GM. It would only make this erratic scrapping shrieking sound on right turns. Wasn't that a crazy time diagnosing. LOL
We found it by letting the vehicle idle and 4 guys rocking the car as hard as we could from side to side.
Every time the right side was higher then the left we got the noise. Pulled the inspection cover and there was the drive happily siding back and forth on the armature shaft.

Dan.

Response From someguy214

DanD described what happens with the noise perfectly.


here is some info you guys wanted:


K&N cold air intake


I use a mechanics stethoscope to locate any noise sources - it's how I found the two bad belt tensioner bearings
not familiar with the dowel rod and screwdriver method
checked the oil, full, no strange color or metal shrapnel


the vehicle was previously ( according to the dealership ) driven by a soccer mom, I can honestly say I don't drive like a maniac either, especially in this cold weather recently. I try to keep to low rpms with this cold weather we have been having.


no warning lights what so ever on the dash
I am going to ask my uncle tomorrow who has been a mechanic for 30+ years fixing equipment for fire/police/ambulance departments. He has a code reader to see if anything is up.


I know you guys are really on about those spark plugs but I have had them in for 3.5 years and have had no issue with them, includes a trip to Florida (no stops except to eat and restroom), and 2 trips to North Carolina ( also no stops except to eat ). additionally if the plugs were misfiring or had a bent pin I would have to think the engine would run rough, very rough. I have not turned it on since the noise started but performance was not affected.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I always like Dan's thinking. Yes the what I'll call "piggy back" solenoid and starter drive very well could even stick and not retract far enough or perhaps at all would really make a wild noise and probably wreck the ring gear also called flywheel gear.


They are spring loaded to retract and lubed. Lube could be like gum? If retracting spring plain broke then it would care much anymore about temperatures and stay doing it.


That listening with a rod thing for noises/bearings is plain dangerous. I do it and so far haven't shot a 30" screwdriver thru the side of my head touching a moving part improperly. Use a stethoscope and save the dangerous stuff/tricks/shortcuts for those aware of the risks IMO.


If that's it you could possibly see it thru inspection plate or take starter out to check that out,


T

Response From someguy214

oil coolant line came loose and was caught by the radiator fan


caused a smell so will watch to make sure the clutch in the fan is still good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - you found the reason. Fix that now. Is that for engine oil, transmission fluid or what? Check that level NOW or all of them.


Fan/fan clutch. Who knows but the fan blades if they were (sure seems like it) touching something need to be very carefully inspected or just replaced. If those are out of balance or damaged that would be the next problem down the road. If clutch driven clutch may be fine but hurt by imbalance. Domino effect of problems possible from one thing that caused it. Seems you are early so try to limit the possible troubles right now.


? What broke that allowed lines to move? Fix that and know they can't just rub on things where held or with each other along their route,


T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That's a very expensive electronic fan clutch.

Response From someguy214

some brackets broke from rust. a quick zip tie for now holds it back enough to not hit the fan.


fan is fine

Response From kev2

thats great news- thanks for the follow up.

My favorite easy and inexpensive

Response From Hammer Time

I'm going to close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can reopen it upon request.

Response From Hammer Time

Bosch plugs cannot be used in that vehicle. They will not run correctly and cause numerous problems. Use only Delco in that engine.

'95 S10 Blazer - 4.3 Fan clutch removal

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From D B Rich on '95 S10 Blazer - 4.3 Fan clutch removal

Trying to R/R water pump and am stumped at fan clutch removal. Have removed belt, and pully off clutch but it wont budge. Picture in the book shows a normal install with studs on the wpump where my engine has bolts holding on the pully and the shaft of the fan clutch is hex while the picture shows round, like I'm used to.
I'm wondering if this is some how threaded into the the wpump flange , which by the way is not round but is cross shapped. Really got me puzzled ??? Any one familiar with this install ?

Response From Guest

Old thread, but here is how I did it. I took a piece of scrap steel I had laying around. Maybe 8"L x 2"W -- put some whiteout on 2 of the bolts in the pully. press bar against it to mark spot. Drilled 2 3/8" holes thru bar as marked. Then pulled out the two bolts and bolted my bar back onto the pully. Then you can hold it in place while you wrestle the fan clutch free (I used a very large adj. wrench). Good luck

Response From D B Rich

Good idea thanks much. D B Rich

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

The fan clutch does unscrew from the pump. I am not suer if it comes off counterclockwise or clockwise.

2000 Chevy Blazer fan clutch

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From donwilki on 2000 Chevy Blazer fan clutch

Hi All
I'm having major problems removing a fan clutch from a 2000 Chevy Blazer so I can access and replace the water pump. I've been working for a day and a half, still no luck. I've tried strap wrenchs, and the guys at the major auto part stores can't seem to give me the right tools or advice.

How can I get this thing off?!?!

Response From autojoe

they have one on ebay for 20 dollars Item number: 200182156177. 12 available.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Here is a picture of the holding tool that you need.
It fits in the water pump access holes.
You need this or something similar to hold pulley while turning the fan clutch nut...(counter clock wise to remove)
Most parts stores I know of do not have this holding tool.
Snap -on would if you have a driver in your area..
You can call Snap -on and they'll inform you of dealers in your area.
I know that doesn't help you now tho.
Some guys have used a big ,very large channel lock to hold the pulley...if you have that give it a try.
Best if you can get someone to help you,one holding the channel lock and the other on the fan clutch.
What can usually work is if you can hold it secure, then put the wrench on the fan clutch nut and give the wrench a quick good whack with a RUBBER mallet to shock it and break it loose...




Sometimes you can put a wrench on the mounting bolts of the pulley and hold while giving the fan clutch nut a quick whack as explained earlier.
But coming off is one thing,putting on is another..because ,the mounting nut when holding and turning the F/C nut will be going towards tighten (disassembly) and will help hold in place,but when installing the nut will have a tendency to loosen...
Hope that makes sense and helps you