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  • MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust

Best Selling Genuine Plymouth Exhausts

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Plymouth Replacement Exhaust Parts

We stock Exhaust parts for most Plymouth models, including Barracuda, Belvedere, Fury, GTX, Satellite, Savoy.

MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust Exhaust System Kit
  • Street Series Stainless Crossmember-Back System
  • ; 2.5 in. Tubing; Includes Mufflers/X-Pipe/Exhaust Pipes/Hardware; 2.625 in. Tips; Dual Outlet Rear
  • Street Series Performance Crossmember-Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Clamp-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Split Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Dual
    • Exit Style: Dual Split Rear
    • Finish: Stainless
    • Inlet Connection Type: Clamp-on
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Diameter: 4.000 In. X 9.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Body Height: 4.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Length: 14.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Body Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Body Width: 9.000 In.
    • Muffler Configuration: Offset/center
    • Muffler Count: 2
    • Muffler Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Muffler Overall Length: 20.000 In.
    • Muffler Type: Straight-through
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Street
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • Subtitles: Crossmember-back
    • System Type: Crossmember Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tip Diameter: 2.625 In.
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Length: 9.000 In.
    • Tip Material: Stainless Steel
    • Tip Quantity: 2
    • Tip Shape: Round
    • Tip Type: Weld-on;single Wall;turndown;cut Edge
    • Title: Street Series
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Type: Crossmember-back
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • Made in the USA and engineered to last, for those seeking increased performance and better economy, MagnaFlow Touring Series Performance Exhaust systems deliver the smooth deep sound you want and the wide-open performance power you need. Our exhaust systems feature straight-through flow designs for the ultimate in unrestricted horsepower and torque for big power while maintaining exhaust efficiency. These systems are an engineered balance of interior and exterior noise levels and are tested against SAE j1169 standards.
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1962 - Plymouth Belvedere V 8 Cyl 6.3L 383 6286
MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust Exhaust System Kit
  • Street Series Stainless Crossmember-Back System
  • ; 2.5in.; Includes Tubing/Tru-X Assy/Dual 4x9x14in. Muffler/Tailpipes/Dual 2.75in. Round Tips; DualSplitRearExit; Stainless
  • Street Series Performance Crossmember-Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Weld-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Split Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Dual
    • Exit Style: Dual Split Rear
    • Finish: Stainless
    • Inlet Connection Type: Weld-on
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Diameter: 4.000 In. X 9.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Body Height: 4.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Length: 14.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Body Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Body Width: 9.000 In.
    • Muffler Count: 2
    • Muffler Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Type: Straight-through
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.750 In.
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Street
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • Subtitles: Crossmember-back
    • System Type: Crossmember Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tip Diameter: 2.750 In.
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Length: 9.000 In.
    • Tip Material: Stainless Steel
    • Tip Quantity: 2
    • Tip Shape: Round
    • Tip Type: Welded;single Wall;turndown;cut Edge
    • Title: Street Series
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Type: Crossmember-back
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • Made in the USA and engineered to last, for those seeking increased performance and better economy, MagnaFlow Touring Series Performance Exhaust systems deliver the smooth deep sound you want and the wide-open performance power you need. Our exhaust systems feature straight-through flow designs for the ultimate in unrestricted horsepower and torque for big power while maintaining exhaust efficiency. These systems are an engineered balance of interior and exterior noise levels and are tested against SAE j1169 standards.
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1970 - Plymouth Barracuda

Latest Plymouth Repair and Exhaust Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

89 dodge3.0 to 98 plymouth 3.0 engine swap

Showing 7 out of 8 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From ghross on 89 dodge3.0 to 98 plymouth 3.0 engine swap

I am swapping an 1989 dynasty 3.0 for a 98 plymouth 3.0I know I need to swap the intake, distributor, alternator bracket, and rear exhaust manifold.
being unfamiliar with later model vehicles, my questions are
1. There is a sensor in the soft plug on the 98, and none on the 89------how do I make the switch????
2. Is there anything else I need to do to make this swap work???

Response From Hammer Time

This just isn't going to work. The newer engine works entirely differently and won't accommodate the necessary components for it to run. It's not legal either to install this motor.

Response From ghross

I live in Ohio so there is nothing ilegal about the swap. Also by the time i swap everything off the old engine (98) I basicaly have a 3.0 block and heads with all the 98 electronics and sensors I don,t see any difference in the basic engine????

Response From Hammer Time

Last I knew, Ohio was still part of the US and that makes it illegal to tamper with an emissions certified vehicle.

Response From ghross

But if I pay 500 bucks to the ASE certified mech at the corner to do the swap then it's legal ?? That being the case what the heck is that ASE certification???

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

ASE certification has nothing to do with it. Swapping an 89 block for a 98 would be considered emissions tampering because the 98 is emissions certified and can't be legally modified. Those blocks are 9 years apart. they aren't going to match up.

Response From ABoismenu

Hammer is completely correct in both ways in the united states i'm pretty sure it's a federal law your breaking by tampering with emission controls. As well as trying to put any of the electronic parts on the old motor would be pointless you would have to change the wiring harness and computer just to accommodate the functions of the sensors. Your doing a lot of work for nothing. Why are you so hell bent on doing this swap?

Response From ghross

thanks for your help---guess I'll figure it out myself And just for the record--------98 minus 89 equals 9 not 15

'90 Plymouth Sundance - Blown Head Gasket - Repairable?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From aaronbertholf on '90 Plymouth Sundance - Blown Head Gasket - Repairable?

I bought a couple days ago a 1990 Plymouth Sundance 2 door with a 2.5L 4 cylinder Chrysler K engine. I paid just $300 for it from someone off of Craigslist, originally wanted $500. The head gasket is blown, it did start up the day I bought it but the engine ran very rough and puffed not a lot but white smoke from the exhaust. It has 74,450 original miles on it. Then the next day I tried to get it home, it would just not start at all. I put in 50/50 coolant antifreeze in the radiator since I didnt see much in it. Tried a few times trying to get it to start. My mother did notice black smoke coming out of the exhaust a tiny bit. Then after stopping attempting to start it, all of the antifreeze was on the ground so I dont know if I bursted a hose or what. Is it possible some of the combustion chambers are flooded with coolant and thats why it would not start? I did get the car towed however, it went to my dad's house for him too look at soon. Is there a possibility my Sundance is toast?


1990 Plymouth Sundance
2.5L 4 cyl. Chrysler K
74,450 Miles

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If your knowingly driving a car around with a blown head gasket, then you shouldn't be surprise when you fry it.

Why would you pay $300 for a car that needs $1,000 worth of repairs and then would only be worth $500?

1965 Plymouth Fury 1 Wagon 383 engine

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From MoparLady65 on 1965 Plymouth Fury 1 Wagon 383 engine

Hi all I have a question. What do I do when my starter gets hot and does not engage while its hot? When its cold it starts up the motor very well. Do I need to build a heat shield around the starter or just put heat tape around the exhaust pipe that's near the starter??

-Natalie

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You can try insulating the starter from the heat source with some asbestos but you may just need a new starter.

Response From MoparLady65

Thanks for the advice I'll see what I can do to get the part from our local parts store since the last one we went to said they had some in stock. And then we'll have to get some help from a friend to install it. Thanks again I will keep you informed if that helps fix it.

I also have another question this time its about the heater core...the wagon has a Double heater core and its now completely trashed aka not working at all and the shop we took it in to for repairs said it would take about $270 to do the job and I found a new part made in the USA on ebay. Should we buy the new one or get a Single heater core that might be able to do the job of the Double? I was just wondering if the single would be able to do the job of the long double core thing?

-Natalie

Response From Hammer Time

What is a "double heater core"? I've never heard that term used. There should be one replacement application for that vehicle and only one.

Response From MoparLady65

I hope this helps but this is as best of a representation of what I have that's called a double or extended length heater core that also works with A/C. I hope the link works, just copy and paste it into a new browser window. -Natalie
Link deleted --- not allowed

Response From Hammer Time

There is only one fitment for that vehicle with no other options to choose from.

1990 Plymouth Voyager

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From PlymouthVoyager on 1990 Plymouth Voyager

I recently purchased a 1990 Plymouth Voyager, 3.3L V6 auto trans with 93,000 miles. It soon started cutting out at 55 MPH. It runs perfect at other speeds. When it cuts out you can depress gas pedal to floor and it will down shift and take off like a rocket. Then let off at 65, and it will up shift and run perfect. The catalytic converter and exhaust appear to be brand new. I have replaced fuel pump and filter, spark plugs and wires, ran injector cleaner and sea foam through gas tank which is cleaner on the inside than most any I've seen for the age. Don't know what else to try, Is there anything else I can try? Are there even diagnostic codes for this and where would the plug be?

Response From nickwarner

There are codes, but you would need a scanner that can read OBD-1 Chrysler and the right adapter. The local parts house might sell one but its not the one they use to scan you for free. The plug on most earlier Chryslers that I've seen is under the hood near the fender. One of the guys here might have a pic they could post of it for you.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Response From PlymouthVoyager

Thanks again for info on where to find my diagnostic plug. I pull DTC 15 code. The reader said that it was "No vehicle speed sensor signal during road load conditions". But I google DTC 15 ODB-1 and get varying results mostly about temperature sensor. Auto parts guys thought it may be a speed sensor on the tranny somewhere. I am stuck again, any suggestions on what to do next? Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

In your case it's a speed sensor code.

Response From PlymouthVoyager

I replaced both speed sensors. Issue persists although not as bad. Tranny fluid still looks clean after I have driven it 3,000 miles or so, and still full and doesn't smell burnt and not leaking at all. The vehicles vitals are perfect. It just cuts out in low RPM in 3rd gear, sometimes lower gears too at low RPM, but not since I replaced the speed sensors, just low RPM in 3rd. What now? Try new ECM? Thanks again

Response From PlymouthVoyager

Yes, Found it. Local parts store does have a OBD-1 reader they will loan to me. I tried to use it today, but I couldn't find the silly plug on my van. I will read codes tomorrow, but this gets me going for the time being. Thanks so much, you guys are GREAT!