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Timing marks for '86 Plymouth Laser

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Question From jdm on Timing marks for '86 Plymouth Laser

How should the timing marks line up on a 1986 Plymouth Laser (2.2 litre turbo)?

Thanks

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Use the center of the rounded top of the valve cover directly behind the cam gear as your 12 o’clock position to locate the cam gear.
After you think you have it timed correctly; rotate the engine in a clockwise direction at least two full turns at the crankshaft. Then check that it is still aligned properly and that the belt is tight but not to tight or it’ll howl and fail prematurely.
Rule of thumb for belt tension is that if you can just twist the belt 90 degrees at the widest gap between gears; using a fair amount of force by hand, your tight enough. In this case the widest gap is between the cam gear and the intermediate gear.
Last thing I can think of about this job; when you rotate the belt tensioner pulley against the belt; rotate it in a counter clockwise direction. I’m not sure why they want you to do this it seems to work in either directions. All I can think of is they want that pulley as close to the crank gear as possible.

Dan.


Valve cover cap? 1989 Plymouth Reliant

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Question From syvmn on Valve cover cap? 1989 Plymouth Reliant

Hey guys. I was driving home from work last night when i noticed the oil light flash on, then off again. I was 30 seconds from home so I just went for it. Pulled up the driveway and parked. I noticed a ton of oil coming from the bottom of the car. This morning I found this "cap" hidden down in the engine. Looks like it comes from the valve cover but it doesn't seem to have any way to be secured there. Any idea what happened and how to fix it? Thanks




Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

https://www.mycarquesthomepage.com/parts/gsk/B45573.jpgAll images... MFG Code: GSK
Part Number: B45573
DescriptionMISC GSKT/SEAL

Specifications

Features & Benefits

  • CARQUEST gaskets are designed and manufactured to meet or exceed original equipm
  • CARQUEST gaskets are designed and manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment manufacturers requirements
  • MSDS Sheets- No MSDS sheet available Application Summary
  • Chry:135(1987-1994),153(1987-1995) DodTrk:135(1986-1988),153(1987-1995)
  • Product Bulletins- No bulletins available Interchange Numbers Type Brand Part Number Specification Documents- No specifications available This is the part number from CarQuest. About $10.00

    Response From Hammer Time

    Looks like the camshaft ends seal cap came off. Clean both the cap and the inside surface where it goes thoroughly with some brake clean or something that removes all the ail residue. Get some silicone or other equilivent sealer and put a layer around the outside edge of the cap and push it back in. You may need to use a large socket or piece of pipe to push it with. Make sure it's something that contacts the surface evenly, close to the edge. Let is set up for a couple hours before driving it.

    Response From Sidom

    Man it's been a while since I've worked on one of those 2.5s (good little motors). Help me out here HT, wasn't there an AM kit for those with a holder for the cam seal or am I thinking of a different make? I know that was a common problem on those......

    Response From Hammer Time

    Response From syvmn

    I'm pretty sure that what those directions are referencing is the other side of the camshaft. The part that popped out on me is not the side that has the belt. Mine is just the cap on the other end. I went around to part stores and all they could come up with is a seal kit that looked like what you have in those directions, which is the opposite side than what i need. For my side all they had was the cap. I stuck some gasket maker on it and pushed it back in the hole after cleaning everything up with brake cleaner. Hopefully the RTV silicone gasket maker will still firm up even though its freaking cold out. Ill let you guys know.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Yes, what I showed you is the front seal but the rear one is the same principle, just with a closed end.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    If you can't find that kit Sidom mentioned I would clean it and the hole and Permatex makes a high temp sealer that should work. You'd need a day and a warmer spot or it wouldn't cure in a week

    That or a rubber freeze plug or the one time metal ones that expand if lucky to find the right size even better might work if you get real close to the size that you tighten up and they get bigger - if good and clean that might work - a guess. One thing is for sure - you need it back in or you'll lose the engine from lack of oil that spits out.

    Ask for the kit would be best - Napa a good bet for funky stuff even old stuff. Sidom - do you know who sells that kit?

    At any rate you gotta do something. If you must have the car to use now perhaps wrapping it with the Teflon tape would fatten that up but be prepared to get towed if you lose it.

    If it's impossible you might be able so dimple it with a center punch. I haven't seen that problem but I'd figure something out fast!

    Have you asked a dealer for kit or just plain a new one? Nice pics BTW!

    I want to know how you fixed it as it hasn't happened to me.

    Good luck,
    T


    (edit - looked back at pics - freeze plug unlessinstalled backwards with a real metal one won't work because of clearance of the shaft - sorry)

    Response From syvmn

    Ok, good. I was hoping it was something simple like that.

    Any idea why it popped out in the first place? I guess it just doesn't make sense to me why that cap doesn't screw in or something to hold it there.

    Also, any idea if the silicone seal will firm up at 20 degrees? I'm in Minnesota and its quite cold here at the moment.

    It also seems like there should be a gasket or something in there as well. Am I missing a piece?

    98 Plymouth Chirping/tweeting sound while driving

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    Question From imhotep06 on 98 Plymouth Chirping/tweeting sound while driving

    My car is a 1998 Plymouth Breeze and it is making a chirping or tweeting sound while in motion. The noise stops when it is not in motion, so I do not think it has anything to do with belts or the engine. I've had my pads, control arms and brake rotors replaced within the past month. The mechanics have placed some kind of lubricant somewhere in the area and still no luck. It sounds like it is coming from the front right wheel. Can anyone help me out with this problem. I've checked online and I cannot find anything.

    I recorded the sound and uploaded it to Youtube. Here is the link:

    I appreciate any help that you can offer. Peace and blessings to you all.

    Response From GC

    Did this happen after the repairs or was it doing it prior to them? Does the sound go away when you brake, or just when you slow down? From the video, the sound is pretty crisp and clear, are you sure its not coming from a window or the windshield or loose trim piece whistling? It should be very easy for a mechanic to find this noise if it is coming from one of the wheels. You could try safely jacking up and supporting the front of the vehicle, then rotating the front wheels by hand and see if you can get one to make noise.

    Response From imhotep06

    This happened before I got these other items replaced and has continued after I replaced these items. They first thought it could be the pads, then the roters and the cv joints, which is why all of these were replaced. Still this noise continued.

    The noise stops when the car stops as you can see in the video. When I accelerated, then the noise began again, so it has to do with the wheel on some level. It is not a window or anything like that. This is confirmed by the fact that when you accelerate faster the intensity of the noise increases: i.e., the faster the car, the faster the chirping.

    Response From autonormative

    This is most likely a problem with the ball joint which is a common problem with the plymouth breeze. Many people have reported the same squeaking due to problems with their ball joint.

    Response From imhotep06

    Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

    Response From autonormative

    Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

    There are actually two ball joints.

    Here is a diagram to help.

    Response From imhotep06 Top Rated Answer

    Greetings. Thank you, again, for your answer. I just want to make sure that I didn't purchase one that was already attached to the lower control arm. So just because I replaced the lower control arm, doesn't mean I replaced the ball joints, correct?


    Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

    There are actually two ball joints.

    Here is a diagram to help.

    Response From Discretesignals

    I've never heard a ball joint make that kind of noise. If it was a ball joint you should be able to get it to squeak while bouncing the front of the vehicle.

    I've actually heard something similar on a vehicle way back when and it ended up being a hood hinge.

    Has your mechanic run the vehicle on his/her lift to see if the noise happens?

    Response From imhotep06

    I am not sure. When I took it in, I wasn't in the area where they did all of the testing.

    However, I just went outside and I pushed my car up and down in the front to see if it would make that squeak noise, and it did not.

    Also, I have noticed that when I start to drive the car, it doesn't make the chirping noise until I get maybe 10 blocks or so. In other words, when I first start off driving, it sounds fine. But a little into the drive then the chirpping noise comes back.


    I've never heard a ball joint make that kind of noise. If it was a ball joint you should be able to get it to squeak while bouncing the front of the vehicle.

    I've actually heard something similar on a vehicle way back when and it ended up being a hood hinge.

    Has your mechanic run the vehicle on his/her lift to see if the noise happens?

    Response From Hammer Time

    The lower joint is the only one that is load bearing so it's highly unlikely for the upper to make noise.

    1995 plymouth acclaim WIRING MALFUNCTION!?

    Showing 4 out of 20 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
    Question From TerryLee on 1995 plymouth acclaim WIRING MALFUNCTION!?

    Year of vehicle 1995
    Make of vehicle i think Chevy.
    Model of vehicle plymouth acclaim
    Engine size 2.4
    rebuilt engine with 50k miles. 189k miles on the dash


    so i want to give as many details as possible, in hope that somebody can offer some help, and hopefully it will be as accurate as possible.

    since ive had the car for about 2 years now, sometimes when i turn on my headlights all my dashlights light up and all my meters go to down to 0, gas meter says empty radiator says cold etc. and all my lights on the outside of my car will be on, every light brake tail light blinkers all stuck on. to fix this issue i hit my dash and then the problem goes away.

    i dont know if this is relavant to my actual issue or not though. now my problem started last week. i was at my friends house. he left my passenger door open for about 3 hours. when we left my battery wasnt dead, car started right up. on the way to my house my battery was saying it was low. alternator was not charging the battery. my car died nd etc. when i got it home i got a new alternator and installed it after testing with a voltimeter and figuring the alternator was the issue.

    after changing the alternator i still had the problem, so i started looking at my wiring and i found a melted wire in what i believe is called "the main junction" for your electrical system heres pictures




    so i fixed that wire, everything worked fine. i thought i fixed my car so i was only out the 35 dollars i spent on a used alternator that i didnt need.

    the next day i go to drive my car, and not even 3 blocks from my house my dashboard voltimeter is reading 8 volts when it should be 12-15 area, so my alternator isnt charging the battery AGAIN. so i turn around go home. and i try to track down the postive wire from the alternator to the battery.

    heres a picture

    its the blue wire next to the green and orange wire, that blue wire is the wire connected to the positive of my alternator. and the wire is good up to this point. i searched it up as far as i could and i got to this



    all the wires taped up, right before going into this weird 2 block looking thing. all the wires look so old and fragile i dont really wanna mess with it, and i have no idea what this 2 block thing mounted to my car is.

    if anyone has any ideas id really appreciate the help. i read this article and im probably going to change all the wiring from the alternator to 4 awg if i can manage it.

    i also have an amp, with subwoofer in my car. which im 100 pct sure is the reason this problem started in the first place. the amp and sub is not hooked up currently, not since the first time the car messed up.

    any ideas please help. thank you so much

    it seems like the alternator just stops charging the car. randomly. at its own free will. and i read something about a wire on the alternator that should tell it to charge, but that wire is always hot wether the car is on or off.

    Response From TerryLee

    also, i tried to bypass the main junction by using an 8g wire going straight from the alternator to the battery, and that worked for a little bit also, then just randomly stopped. soemtimes it works sometimes it doesnt, i litteraly had the car running and it sat there and died, then later on after putting a battery charger on it and starting it again it wasnt working after the battery was charged, then as im standing there looking at the car thinking wtf is the problem.

    i heard the car rev up like it was getting more power, and sure as shit the alternator was back to working. it litteraly has a mind of its own

    Response From Hammer Time

    You're pretty lucky you haven't had to call the fire department yet. That wire that you found burnt was a fusible link which is actually a fuse and you replaced it with regular wire so the circuit no longer has a fuse. The voltage regulator for this car is built into the engine computer so you need to have this tested by a competent shop to determine what the issue is.

    Response From TerryLee

    when i peeled theprevious wire apart that was there, it was just a smaller wire connecting to a bigger wire, it didnt look like a fuse, and the wire burnt before the thicker looking area, i just peeled the rest of it off to see if it was a fuseable link like a friend told me, and to see how far up the wire was burnt, it looked more like a wire size adjustment. so i have to take my car to a shop eh? i was really hoping to avoid that, its 60 an hr minimum around here. and i was hoping i could just find something and fix it. these people will rob me.

    Response From Hammer Time

    That was special "melt-away" wire that's called fusible link and it has to be repaired using fuse wire. It's there to prevent a fire.

    Response From TerryLee

    ill get more melt away wire then i guess, just so i dont get charged extra for that. id really prefer not to bring it to a shop tho. nobody has any other ideas possibly? im ready to rip out my dash and check the wiring for whatever ive been pounding on it to fix, if you read the first paragraph of my first post you'll understand

    Response From Hammer Time

    Electrical failures aren't repaired through "ideas". They are repaired by following a wiring diagram and testing. That's not for you. One mistake can fry multiple computers.

    Response From TerryLee

    im actually very techy and i do alot of house electrical work. if i had a wiring diagram and a voltimeter i dont understand how i can blow multiple computers. but im going to call up an auto service tomorow and try to get in.

    i read this earlier. what do you think of this? link deleted........... not allowed

    when my cars fixed im thinking of trying it possibly

    Response From Hammer Time

    i dont understand how i can blow multiple computers

    And there is where the problem is. Computer drivers are designed to carry about 300ma. One slip of a power wire in the wrong direction and the computer is history. You can take a computer out simply with the static electricity from your clothes.

    Response From TerryLee



    this is a picture of an alternator exactly like mine.

    my B+ line is always hot

    the ground works correct, and when tested with a voltmeter i noticed one of the field terminals was a postive and the other was a negative, the wire i bypassed going to my battery is from the positive field terminal. which im reading about and i guess thats more for the light system. the B+ goes straight to my battery or just about. and the grounds work fine.

    if anybody could supply a wiring diagram of my car in detail, i cant seem to find any that would work for anything but wiring a stereo
    i would like to go through my lines myself possibly incase the the car shop just wants to tell me its my alternator, or dick me around for hours worth of work.

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    Response From TerryLee

    the wire i found burned was off the (black rear of battery) plastic piece coming off the postive almost instantly. and it was off that nest of wires there going into my dash where the 1 wire was burnt. that doesnt seem like an amp would cause that would it? my amp takes power from the battery, that line should have nothing to do with my amp. or am i wrong? your the pro. im pretty sure i have a short in my dash if that could have caused this.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I really don't plan on spending any more time correcting your misstatements and giving you advice that your not taking.

    Response From TerryLee

    the only thing you want me to do is go to a car shop. your the pro that knows how that diagram works better then me. i figured out the wire i burnt is the A0 8BK, im pretty sure anyways. and it would be nice to know that my amp didnt cause the problem, that it was indeed something else.

    thank you for all your help by the way. it doesnt seem like theres really anything else i can do besides take the car to a garage.

    Response From TerryLee

    i just have 1 final question to anyone still reading this thread. if the wire that was burnt was the A0 8BK or one of the wires coming off of it, could that be caused by a high draw of power through the battery? it looks like A0 8BK wouldnt be affected by this. im just curious if its possible, or not possible. thanks

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    TerryLee: Quick re-read sorry but from the pics (what a mess!) and now some amp (not a good idea) and things so hacked up you need some pro help with this in AUTOMOTIVE work and forget most of your said know how with house wiring as that doesn't equate well to automotive wiring.............

    T

    Response From Discretesignals

    If you have to smack the dash to get stuff to come back on, I think you have more than the problems under the hood going on. Chrysler was horrible with their electrical wiring back then. Most of those cars mysteriously ended up in the salvage yards, but nobody knows why.

    Response From Hammer Time

    i also have an amp, with subwoofer in my car. which im 100 pct sure is the reason this problem started in the first place. the amp and sub is not hooked up currently, not since the first time the car messed up.

    You could have extensive damage from that. When I see that, I turn and walk away.

    Response From TerryLee

    now i just started up my car, and it works fine. but of course come maybe an hour maybe a day it wont work. its really weird.

    i mean just bypassing everything and connecting a wire straight from the alternator to my battery should make it work if the alternator is working anyways right?

    why does the alternator randomly stop charging the battery, and randomly start. when i havent touched anything and everything is tightend down and secure.

    it doesnt really sound like a wiring issue, but when you mentioned car computer issue, thats really the only reason ill bring it into a shop so they can test it i guess and see what its sayin.

    Response From Hammer Time

    That wire HAS to be fused

    1954 plymouth savoy

    Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
    Question From memphissavoy on 1954 plymouth savoy

    I have a 1954 Plymouth Savoy that is running. I want to change the transmission to an automatic, is this feasible and what is the cost?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    !! It isn't even running yet and you are worried about a transmission change? Don't you have a priority out of order here?


    C'mon - you could go nuts with alterations, fix to original or whatever you want. If you aren't able to even make it run this hobby isn't for you and you wont like prices/costs if you don't do a LOT of things yourself,


    T

    Response From Hammer Time

    Tom

    I have a 1954 Plymouth Savoy that is running


    I agree. Don't hack up the car doing this stuff. Keep it stock.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    Eeek! Sorry - Same though - don't hack up the car. Almost everything was a STD of around then and OE automatics IMO stunk for those that had them - mostly Buick's "Hydromatic" was one infinite gear.


    Not the point - it would complicate the car worse than just being old is on it's own. You can do anything to the thing and keep the look of what it was but asking for costs right away says this isn't for you.


    If you love this car exactly and want one exactly as you wish in "turn key" condition check out www.hemmingsmotornews.com for one already done up or places at least that do custom anything and I mean anything you can pay for,


    T