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Professional Parts Sweden
Qty:
$326.88
Professional Parts Sweden Exhaust System Kit
  • This cat-back exhaust kit contains the center muffler (with inlet gasket), the rear muffler, an exhaust clamp, and 3 exhaust hangers.
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Volvo XC90
Starla
1989 Volvo 740 Exhaust System Kit Starla

P311-5C7A4D8    New

Qty:
$249.70
Starla Exhaust System Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • From Center Muffler Inlet to Tail Pipe - Inc. Hardware
  • 740 8V 88+
Brand: Starla
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Volvo 740
Starla
1976 Volvo 242 Exhaust System Kit Starla

P311-0E2DC6F    New

Qty:
$198.93
Starla Exhaust System Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • From Center Muffler Inlet to Tail Pipe - Inc. Hardware This kit contains mufflers, pipes, clamps, and hangers to replace the exhaust system from the center muffler inlet to the tailpipe on ALL 76-93 240/260 models (except 240 Turbo) Some individual pieces in the kit may look or install differently than what was initially on the car, but when the complete kit has been installed, the exhaust system will perform as intended. THE AXLE PIPE INCLUDED IN THIS KIT IS A CROSS-OVER 1976 TYPE.
Brand: Starla
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1976 - Volvo 242
Magnaflow
Qty:
$216.01
Magnaflow Exhaust System Kit
  • SYS TB 98-02 Dodge Cummins Diesel
  • SINGLE PASSENGER SIDE REAR EXIT EXCEPT CALIFORNIA
  • Aluminized Custom Builder Pipe Kit Diesel 4in. Turbo-Back
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anticipated Ship Out Time: Approximately 1-2 Days
    • Attachment Style: Bolt-on
    • Color/Finish: Aluminized
    • Components: Band Clamp=5
    • Downpipe Diameter: 3.5
    • Exhaust Inlet Connection Type: Bolt-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Aluminized
    • Exit Location: Single Passenger Side Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Single
    • Main Piping Diameter: 4
    • Material: Aluminized
    • Muffler Quantity: 0
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Aluminized Custom Builder
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • System Type: Turbo-back
    • Tip Quantity: 0
    • Warranty: 1 Year Limited
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle bedlength Block Body CC CID
1998 - Dodge Ram 2500 96.0 L Extended Cab Pickup - 359
Magnaflow
Qty:
$216.01
Magnaflow Exhaust System Kit
  • SYS TB 98-02 Dodge Cummins Diesel
  • SINGLE PASSENGER SIDE REAR EXIT
  • Aluminized Custom Builder Pipe Kit Diesel 4in. Turbo-Back
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anticipated Ship Out Time: Approximately 1-2 Days
    • Attachment Style: Bolt-on
    • Color/Finish: Aluminized
    • Components: Band Clamp=5
    • Downpipe Diameter: 3.5
    • Exhaust Inlet Connection Type: Bolt-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Aluminized
    • Exit Location: Single Passenger Side Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Single
    • Main Piping Diameter: 4
    • Material: Aluminized
    • Muffler Quantity: 0
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Aluminized Custom Builder
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • System Type: Turbo-back
    • Tip Quantity: 0
    • Warranty: 1 Year Limited
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle bedlength Block Body CC CID
1999 - Dodge Ram 2500 78.0 L Extended Cab Pickup - 359
Magnaflow
Qty:
$603.60
Magnaflow Exhaust System Kit
  • Sys C/B 08 Ford F-Series 6.4L duals
  • DUAL SAME SIDE BEHIND PASSENGER REAR TIRE EXIT
  • MagnaFlow Performance Diesel 4in. Filter-Back
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anticipated Ship Out Time: Approximately 1-2 Days
    • Attachment Style: Clamp-on
    • Color/Finish: Stainless
    • Components: Band Clamp=8
    • Exhaust Inlet Connection Type: Clamp-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless
    • Exit Location: Dual Same Side Behind Passenger Rear Tire
    • Exit Quantity: Dual
    • Main Piping Diameter: 4
    • Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Diameter: 6 X 6
    • Muffler Body Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Body Height: 6
    • Muffler Body Length: 14
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Shape: Round
    • Muffler Body Width: 6
    • Muffler Configuration: Center/center
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter: 4
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 4
    • Muffler Overall Length: 20
    • Muffler Quantity: 1
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Magnaflow Performance Dpf
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • System Type: Particulate Filter-back
    • Tip Diameter: 5
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Length: 13
    • Tip Material: Stainless
    • Tip Quantity: 2
    • Tip Shape: Round
    • Tip Type: Intercooled;rolled Edge;single Wall;angle Cut
    • Warranty: Lifetime
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle bedlength Block Body CC CID
2008 - Ford F-250 Super Duty 81.8 V Crew Cab Pickup - 391
Magnaflow
Qty:
$537.76
Magnaflow Exhaust System Kit
  • SYS C/B 09- Mitsu Lancer Ralli 2.0T
  • DUAL SPLIT REAR EXIT
  • Street Series Stainless Cat-Back System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anticipated Ship Out Time: Approximately 1-2 Days
    • Attachment Style: Bolt-on
    • Color/Finish: Stainless
    • Components: Band Clamp=2
    • Exhaust Inlet Connection Type: Bolt-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless
    • Exit Location: Dual Split Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Dual
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2.5
    • Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Diameter: 5 X 8
    • Muffler Body Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Body Height: 5
    • Muffler Body Length: 18
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Body Width: 8
    • Muffler Quantity: 1
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Street
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • System Type: Cat-back
    • Tip Diameter: 3.5 X 5.5
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Length: 8.25
    • Tip Material: Stainless
    • Tip Quantity: 2
    • Tip Shape: Oval
    • Tip Type: Rolled Edge;double Wall
    • Warranty: Lifetime
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Submodel
2009 - Mitsubishi Lancer Turbocharged L 1998 122 Ralliart
Walker
Qty:
$148.85
Walker Exhaust System Kit  N/A
  • 2 1/2 Inch System
  • Dynomax Super Turbo Single System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Type: Mandrel
    • Kit Contents: Tail Pipe All Necessary Brackets Clamps.
    • Max Year Covered: 1996
    • Min Year Covered: 1987
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Bronco
    • Most Popular Year: 1996
    • Muffler Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Material: Steel
    • Muffler Type included: Super Turbo
    • Part Class: Pw
    • Pipe Diameter (in): 2.500
    • Pipe Finish: Aluminized
    • Pipe Material: Steel
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 59565
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1990 - Ford Bronco V - 302 N/A
Walker
Qty:
$116.45
Walker Exhaust System Kit  N/A
  • Dynomax Super Turbo Single System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Type: Mandrel
    • Max Year Covered: 1997
    • Min Year Covered: 1993
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Jeep Grand Cherokee
    • Most Popular Year: 1997
    • Muffler Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Material: Steel
    • Muffler Type included: Super Turbo
    • Part Class: Pb
    • Pipe Diameter (in): 2.250
    • Pipe Finish: Aluminized
    • Pipe Material: Steel
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 455977
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1993 - Jeep Grand Wagoneer V 5211 318 N/A
Walker
Qty:
$426.83
Walker Exhaust System Kit  N/A
  • Dynomax Ultra Flo Welded Single System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Type: Mandrel Bend
    • Clamp Count: 2
    • Clamp Type: Band Clamp - Lap Joint
    • Exit Location: Angle
    • Kit Contents: Int Pipe, Muffler, Tail Pipe, Clamps, Instruction Sheet
    • Max Year Covered: 2008
    • Min Year Covered: 2007
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Suburban 1500
    • Most Popular Year: 2007
    • Muffler Count: 1
    • Muffler Finish: Bare
    • Muffler Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Type included: Ultra Flo Welded
    • Part Class: N
    • Pipe Diameter (in): 3.00
    • Pipe Finish: Bare
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Single or Dual: Single
    • Sound level (1-5 scale): 3
    • System Type: Cat Back
    • Tip Material: Polished Stainless Steel
    • Tip Outlet Size: 4.000
    • Total Part VIO: 347545
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2008 - Chevrolet Avalanche V 5328 325 N/A
Walker
Qty:
$419.70
  • Dynomax Ultra Flo Welded Single System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Type: Mandrel
    • Clamp Count: 5
    • Clamp Type: Band
    • Exit Location: Angle
    • Kit Contents: 3 Pipes, 1 Muffler, 1 Tip W/clamp, 4 Clamps
    • Max Year Covered: 2015
    • Min Year Covered: 2015
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Tahoe
    • Most Popular Year: 2015
    • Muffler Count: 1
    • Muffler Finish: Bare
    • Muffler Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Type included: Ultra Flo Welded
    • Part Class: N
    • Pipe Diameter (in): 3.00
    • Pipe Finish: Bare
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Single or Dual: Single
    • Sound level (1-5 scale): 3
    • System Type: Cat Back
    • Tip Material: Polished Stainless Steel
    • Tip Outlet Size: 4.000
    • Total Part VIO: 138861
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2015 - Chevrolet Tahoe V 5328 325 N/A
Walker
Qty:
$495.57
  • Dual Axle-Back
  • Dynomax Ultra Flo Welded Dual System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Type: Mandrel
    • Clamp Count: 2
    • Clamp Type: Band
    • Exit Location: Rear
    • Kit Contents: 2 Mufflers, 2 Clamps, 2 Spouts
    • Max Year Covered: 2016
    • Min Year Covered: 2015
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Mustang
    • Most Popular Year: 2015
    • Muffler Count: 2
    • Muffler Finish: Bare
    • Muffler Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Type included: Ultra Flo Welded
    • Part Class: N
    • Pipe Diameter (in): 2.50
    • Pipe Finish: Bare
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Single or Dual: Dual
    • Sound level (1-5 scale): 3
    • System Type: Axle Back
    • Tip Material: Polished Stainless Steel
    • Tip Outlet Size: 4.000
    • Total Part VIO: 26953
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2016 - Ford Mustang V 4951 302 N/A

Latest Exhaust Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

leak from exhaust manifold

Showing 4 out of 28 Posts | Show 24 Hidden Posts
Question From biohazard on leak from exhaust manifold

I have a very strange leak from the exhaust manifold right at the head. its more of a seep than a leak. I have made sure that its not leaking from the valve cover. can't really tell if its gas or oil. I don't know much about piston engines so I'd really like to hear any advice anyone might have on fixing this. its on a 1991 chevy c1500 v6 4.3l



Response From GC

Is that cylinder firing properly? Does the engine feel like it is misfiring? Have you noticed excessive moisture in exhaust?

Response From biohazard

i havent noticed any excessive moisture in the exhuast. i park in a clean street its not dripping any fluid of anykind. but i am loosing oil just dont know where its going.
i went to check out my spark plugs and wires. when i pulled off a wire it came apart leaving the connector on the plug. so im going to replace all my plug wires. i decided to crank over the engine with the plug wire off. there dosent seem to be any change other than a loud click noise. i used a mechanic stethoscope to isolate the noise.

this seems to be making noise now. even after i replaced the wire with a new one. i have no idea what this thing is but it sure is ticking pretty loud.
so if the plug is bad then will oil/gas seep through where the exhuast minifold and head meet?

Response From Discretesignals

i decided to crank over the engine with the plug wire off. there dosent seem to be any change other than a loud click noise. i used a mechanic stethoscope to isolate the noise.

Are you an idiot? Using a mechanic's stethoscope to check plug wires and coils...LMAO

You do understand that 40kV to the head doesn't feel very good, right?

Response From biohazard

i seen it was connected to the dist. so i didnt touch it directly with the steth. its a pretty loud tick. i put it the intake and valve cover then leaned over and used my ear. so its the dist coil then awesome. i came to this forum to seek help i can take insults and all where i deserve them but im looking for help with my leak. is there anyway or reason why oil would leak out of the head right there?

Response From Discretesignals

Using your ear against it is even worse. You do realize that the voltage from a good coil can jump up to 2 inches or more. The spark is looking for ground and your ear or stethoscope would make an excellent path to it. I've never been dumb enough to get smacked in the ear by an ignition system, but I can imagine it would hurt like hell.

Another thing is never ever run a coil open circuited. The secondary voltage has no where to go, so it is going to look for ground. It probably popped a hole through the case because you ran it without the plug wire installed and that is the clicking noise your hearing. Always provide a path for the secondary voltage to get to ground when pulling plug wires.

Your dealing with high voltage, so you need to take some precautions that you're obviously ignorant about.

I'm glad that your insulted, because maybe you'll remember what was typed here.

Response From biohazard

thank for your education on dist coils. i will remember thats for sure. i did not know that running it with an open plug wire would hurt it.

Response From Discretesignals

It's alright....atleast you didn't learn the hard way.

Open circuiting a coil is like putting a fat guy on a treadmill going full speed. The spark is going to find the easiest way to ground even if that means burning a hole through the coil housing.

If you really want to see if the plug wires or coil is leaking spark externally, wait till night time. Take a 12 volt test light with you and connect it to the battery negative. With the engine running run the test light around the coil, wires, boots. You'll see sparks jumping to your test light probe if you have a leak. If you hear snapping from the coil, the coil is faulty.

You may see an aura or glow around plug wires when it is dark, but that is completely normal.

Response From biohazard

i went ahead and replaced the coil and all the plug wires and tested each wire with a timing light they all seem to work.
the strange leak is whats really eating at me.

Response From Hammer Time

It's going to keep on eating you if you keep looking for oil coming out of an exhaust manifold. Liquid oil cannot survive that temperature.

Response From biohazard

could it be leaking from the head and being pushed into the manifold and the pressure from the exhaust fumes push it out between the manifold and head?

Response From Hammer Time

I'll explain this one more time. Oil does not run uphill. It flows downhill, meaning if you find it between the valve cover and the exhaust manifold, it came from the valve cover.

Response From biohazard

its not a flowing or dripping leak. its a very gradual slow slow seep. and i have looked and looked and looked again at the valve cover seal. after driving it i run a new white rag with my finger around the valve seal and cant pick up any new oil but its still down by the manifold. there is no line that runs down from the cover to the manifold.
in the first pic i posted you can see the oil around the exhaust i believe it crept up through the dirt that is there.

Response From Hammer Time

It doesn't look wet to me. are you sure it's not just exhaust soot?

Response From biohazard

im positive its wet. when i bought the truck there was no stain there.after putting 20 miles on it or so i noticed the dark spot. it was only about a 1/4 inch or so around the manifold. thought to my self..was that there before. i took a mental note. then after driving it more a noticed the spot grew . now it was about 1/2 inch around the manifold. after realizing its growing slowy but surly to what it looks like now.
wich looks a lot like a cover leak. that is why i have thoroughly checked this before i go replacing the cover gasket.
oh yeah and im slowly loosing oil. but idk where its going sence there no drips in the street

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what to tell you. If that cylinder is firing and working normally the temperature can reach 2500 degrees and oil will turn to ash at that temp.

Response From Discretesignals

Looks like valve cover gasket to me. You would hear an exhaust leak if it was somehow magically leaking oil from between the manifold and cylinder head.

Response From biohazard

when im driving down the road i can hear what sounds like an exhaust leak. but it dose not make this noise when at idle. i can gas it at idle and it makes the exhaust leak noise for about half a sec then goes away with high rps but only at idle it goes away. with the engine under load i hear the putting noise of an exhaust leak. its very hard to pinpoit when im doing this myself. i was going to change the flange gasket where the manifold meets the pipe and see if that would get rid of the noise but i dont think that it will.it dosent sound like its coming from under where the flange gasket is but sounds like its coming from the hood

Response From Hammer Time

If you're so convinced that it is the exhaust gasket, then just change the damn gasket and be done with it. Why debate it here?

Response From biohazard

im not convinced its anything? im here for help and to learn something. from what i can tell replacing the manifold gasket wont fix why oil is coming out. it will just channel it into the exhaust. im not looking for a band aid im looking to fix it right. i know i shouldent be losing oil at the rate that i am.
im not trying to debate. you keep saying valve cover i keep assuring you its not but you say valve cover again. i have checked the valve cover over and over a week before i even posted on here. than checked it six or seven more times cause you kept saying valve cover and me thinking ..well maybe i missed something.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, we have reached a stalemate and this question no longer serves any purpose so I am going to close it now.

Response From Discretesignals

With the engine running, take a rag in your hand and put it over the exhaust pipe. This puts back pressure in the exhaust system. Have someone listen for leaks.

Response From biohazard

ok found the source of the putt noise. its the manifold on the other side of the engine. at the rear its missing a bolt that holds it on . so its only half on. great trick man i never wouold have thought of that. thats an easy fix too .

Response From biohazard

the plugs i pulled looked like they were getting too hot. i have read other forums and articles that say it could be leaking from behind the bolt that holds the manifold in place.
i havent checked this yet. or a cracked head?

Response From Hammer Time

Again, that oil is not coming out of the exhaust. The stain you see came from the valve cover. Oil doesn't run uphill.

Response From biohazard

i am 100% sure the oil is not coming from anywhere on the vale cover. i have cleaned all around where the valve cover meets the head and cleaned around the exhaust manifold where the oils is. let it idle for 30mins drove it about five miles on the highway and no oil is coming out from the valve cover. i even used a mirror and lights to inspect the very rear of the cover to be sure it wasn't running from the rear to the front and dripping down. but there was new oil around the exhaust manifold.
i cant make sense of this....

Response From Tom Greenleaf


No comment.......... T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Of course it's coming from the valve cover. There is no liquid oil in the exhaust system

Cracked exhaust manifold

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Braxton on Cracked exhaust manifold


What problems does a cracked exhaust manifold cause?

Response From Hammer Time

To add to what Nick pointed out, it will cause some real driveability issue by introducing oxygen into the exhaust and really confusing the 0/2 sensor.

Also, please don't post duplicate questions

Response From Braxton

Thanks for your reply. I am sorry I posted it twice. This is the first time I have used this forum media. Your additional information 0/2 explains a lot more about my problems. The sensor is just below the manifold. I will not drive it again until I replace the manifold. Thanks again for your reply.........Braxton

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

carbon monoxide poisoning from raw exhaust entering the passenger compartment. Needs to get replaced

Response From Braxton

Thanks for your reply. I did not think about the carbon monoxide. I will not drive it until I replace the manifold. Thanks again for your help..........Braxton

Muffler/Exhaust????

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From VDVega on Muffler/Exhaust????

Okay, so I know almost nothing about cars.
I'll just show you the pictures and maybe someone can help me out? Thanks.


Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Your exhaust pipe rotted away and broke in half. Just get it to an exhaust speciality shop and they will examine how much of the system can be re-used.

Please help. Exhaust Pipe system broken or rusted?

Showing 5 out of 20 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Abernathy_21 on Please help. Exhaust Pipe system broken or rusted?

Hi all. I woke up this morning, went to start my car (2001 Chevy Cavalier) and there was a VERY loud rumbling noise. It was so aggressive the car shook. I cut off the engine and looked around the car and under to discover that the whole pipe system underneath was hanging down onto the ground.

this has never happened before

the pipe is disconnected and hanging in the center but still connected to the muffler part in the back.

idk what to do! does anyone know what this is? how much it will cost to fix? i don't have very much money. do i need a tow truck?

i took pics:

(towards front of car)


(towards rear of car)

thank you!

Response From Discretesignals

Do you live in a bad neighborhood? Looks like someone stole your catalytic converter.

If the converter is gone, you might want to call the cops and then contact your insurance company if you want to file a claim.

Response From Abernathy_21

but isn't the catalytic converter in the rear of the car? the first pic is towards the front and the seconds one is towards the back wheels.

Response From Discretesignals


Response From Abernathy_21

damn. now i'm mad. omg, i can't believe someone stole it! this is unbelievable! they must've been really fast b/c i drove the car at 6am and woke up at 12pm. could they really have done it in the daytime?

ughh.

Response From Discretesignals

It can be taken off in 2 mins with a battery operated sawzall and the right blade.

Response From Abernathy_21

wow, well that destroys my peace of mind. how can i stop it from happening again?

Response From nickwarner


wow, well that destroys my peace of mind. how can i stop it from happening again?



This does the trick for me

http://www.remington.com/~/media/Images/Firearms/Shotguns/VERSA-MAX/VersaMaxTactical_81059.ashx

Response From Abernathy_21

that's assuming I can hear the sneaky little bastards. i think i'd rather let the police handle them. our police don't tolerate that nonsense!

Response From nickwarner

Start parking on top of red ant hills. Nobody wants a new cat bad enough to lay on that. You need a new cat now, and hopefully it won't be too expensive. I doubt you'll be hit twice by the same people. Once they come through and hit your car and maybe a few other easy ones they'll bug out of the area. They know well enough that if they keep working in the same area too long people will get wise to what they're doing. If your car was far enough from your house that would be something they look for. A passerby would think they were just working on their own car, and with a fresh sawzall blade I can get a cat out within a minute. Doing it in daylight makes sense because they can appear legit. If they were running that saw in the middle of the night when everyone was at home it would be noticed. While people are at work in the morning nobody would pay attention. Its hiding in plain sight. Lot of burglars have taken to daylight work for the same reason. Just use a panel van or something that looks like a service truck. Neighbors think some contractor is just fixing a pipe. Homeowner gets robbed blind while they're at work or on vacation.

I'd notify the cops since they are getting more calls like this and they might be looking into a pattern of these things. At the least, if they can catch this guy on a different case they might be able to link him back to this if they know about it. Then instead of getting charged on one little case that gets him a slap on the wrist he gets pinned up on multiple charges and the judge can see the pattern. He doesn't weasel down the charges to next to nothing that way.

While he's in court, get a sawzall and chop the cat out of his car.

Response From Sidom

That's a tough one.....The best solution would be to garage the car but if you don't have one then that's not possible.

The next solution would be to get a motion activated alarms but that might not work because people don't really do anything when they hear one....

I'll have to google something but I remember seeing a "cat cage" or something like that, that the shop would weld on around the cat......Strong metal & would require a lot more time to remove so most theives would move on to a different car




Something like this

Response From Abernathy_21

i like the cat clamp idea. i definitely have to do something b/c parking my car a block away in my aunt's garage will get tiresome. i hate thieves.

thanks everyone for you help! i took it to Bell Tire and I totally looked like I knew what I was talking about. :)

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

This works good too...LMAO


Response From Fezer 690

Hey what about combining the two previous posts?

You know the saying:Monkey see, monkey do!

Response From Sidom

You definitely need to report this.....

I can't say for your state but in CA they passed legislation where recyclers now have to document the people & cats that they are recycling in an effort to stop this kind of stuff.

It got pretty bad here for a while......We had a Caddy in our shop parking lot that lost a cat......

Response From Discretesignals

That does suck. Really the only thing you can do is park your vehicle in your garage, if you have one, or a place that doesn't make the car visible to people driving by.

Thieves are desperate and want that quick cash.


Park over a bunch of cacti or some type of thorny bush..LOL

Response From Hammer Time

They are carrying battery operated saws-allls and although they will make a little noise, they can have it off in under 2 minutes.

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, you don't have to be in a bad neighborhood either. They are stealing them left and right and selling them for big money.

Response From Discretesignals

Well, at least they were nice enough to leave you the O2 sensor.

Response From re-tired

NOt a lot of money and a 12 yr old car.Even if you did have coverage ,the deductable would put you back to square one .If you live ina non emmission state you may be able to get a repair pipe to buy some time . but you eventually need the CAT replaced,,,,,, its federal law.

hot exhaust on Ford 460

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Question From a&a repair on hot exhaust on Ford 460

The exhaust pipe on pasenger side of a Ford 460 is getting red hot. What could be causing this?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure what vintage. Does this use a choke plate type heat riser in the exhaust between pipe and manifold?

T

Response From a&a repair Top Rated Answer

It's not the exhaust manifold, it's the actuall exhaust pipe

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I understand. If the engine uses a heat riser it diverts most of the exhaust to the other side thru the intake manifold. Intake may cool that exhaust on the way a bit and the trickle amount remaining doesn't flow fast enough so may get red hot. Hard to say for sure. Heat risers frequently used a temp sensitive spring or maybe a rod to a diaphragm - I forget the assorted ways that might have been used on a 460,

T