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Borla
Qty:
$1,510.52
Borla Exhaust System Kit
  • Q60S/RED SPORT 17-18 3.0TT V6 AT AWD 2DR 2.5in. S-TYPE S RD RL AC PH SR TIP: 4.5
  • ; 2.5 in.; Includes Pipe Assemblies/X-Pipe/Collector Pipes/Intermediate Pipes/Muffler/Clamps/4.5x7.75 in. Sgl. Phantom Tips; Single Split Rear Exit;50 State Legal / California Emissions Compliant
  • S-Type Cat-Back(TM) Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Rear
    • Exit Style: Straight
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Type: Straight-through
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tail Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Tip Diameter: 4.500 In.
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: This Product In The Physical Form It Is Sold Does Not Present A Hazard. However; Operations Including; But Not Limited To Welding; Brazing; Or Thermal Cutting Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium; Nickel; Cobalt; Arsenic; Cadmium And Le
  • The BORLA(R) sound of power. Its been described as asonic shot of adrenaline. An intoxicating concert ofsteel, gears and combustion that echoes from thespeedways, deserts and highways of the world.The sound of more victory laps than any otherbrand, the BORLA(R) exhaust note has become the quintessentioal soundtrack of high-performance motoring. And like all good automotive designs there is function behing the form. As any driving enthusiast knows, the sound of an exhaust provides more than just ear candy. Its a communications conduit between car and driver. A link between human and machine. The exhaust sound provides accoustic feedback of engine rpm to aid the driver in critical decisions such as gear selection or throttle input in rev-match shifting. At BORLA(R), we understand this concept better than any exhaust manufacturer. Combining patented technology with computer modeling, extensive prototyping and advanced sound analysis tools. BORLA(R) engineers spend countless hours tuning exhaust systems to best reflect the personality and performance of vehicle applications. The result is an enhanced driving experience. With unrivaled clarity, the BORLA(R) exhaust note can help a driver stay within the powerband through a difficult section, using the exciting sensory feedback of sound. With unrivaled clarity the Borla exhaust note can help a driver stay within the powerband through a difficult section, using the exciting sensry feedback of sound.
Brand: Borla
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Infiniti Q60 Sport V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2997
MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust Exhaust System Kit
  • Street Series Stainless Cat-Back System
  • ; 2.5 in.; 5 x 11 in. Mufflers/Dual 4 in. Round Tips; Overall Length-22 in.; Dual Split Rear Exit; Stainless
  • Street Series Performance Cat-Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Bolt-on
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless
    • Exhaust Type: Cat-back
    • Exit Position: Dual Split Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Dual
    • Exit Style: Dual Split Rear
    • Finish: Stainless
    • Inlet Connection Type: Bolt-on
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 4.000 In.
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Material: Stainless
    • Muffler Body Diameter: 5.000 In. X 11.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Body Height: 5.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Length: 22.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Body Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Body Width: 11.000 In.
    • Muffler Configuration: Offset/offset
    • Muffler Count: 1
    • Muffler Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter: 2.375 In.
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2.375 In.
    • Muffler Overall Length: 22.000 In.
    • Muffler Type: Straight-through
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Street
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • Subtitles: Cat-back
    • System Type: Cat Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tip Diameter: 4.000 In.
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Length: 7.500 In.
    • Tip Material: Stainless Steel
    • Tip Quantity: 2
    • Tip Shape: Round
    • Tip Type: Welded;double Wall;angle Cut;folded Edge
    • Title: Street Series
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Type: Cat-back
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • Made in the USA and engineered to last, for those seeking increased performance and better economy, MagnaFlow Touring Series Performance Exhaust systems deliver the smooth deep sound you want and the wide-open performance power you need. Our exhaust systems feature straight-through flow designs for the ultimate in unrestricted horsepower and torque for big power while maintaining exhaust efficiency. These systems are an engineered balance of interior and exterior noise levels and are tested against SAE j1169 standards.
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Infiniti G35 V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust Exhaust System Kit
  • Street Series Stainless Cat-Back System
  • ; 2.5 in.; Includes X-Pipe/Dual Resonators/5x8x18 in. Muffler/Tailpipe/Dual 4 in. Round Tips; Dual Split Rear Exit; Stainless
  • Street Series Performance Cat-Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Bolt-on
    • Clamp Type: Band Clamp
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Split Rear
    • Exit Quantity: Dual
    • Exit Style: Dual Split Rear
    • Finish: Stainless
    • Hanger Included: Yes
    • Inlet Connection Type: Bolt-on
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Material: Stainless
    • Mounting Bracket Included: No
    • Muffler Body Diameter: 4.000 In. X 4.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Body Height: 4.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Length: 14.000 In.
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Body Shape: Round
    • Muffler Body Width: 4.000 In.
    • Muffler Configuration: Center/center
    • Muffler Count: 3
    • Muffler Finish: Polished
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter: 2.375 In.
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2.375 In.
    • Muffler Overall Length: 14.000 In.
    • Muffler Type: Straight-through
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 4.000 In.
    • Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Recommended Use: Performance
    • Series: Street
    • Sound Level: Moderate
    • Subtitles: Cat-back
    • System Type: Cat Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tip Diameter: 4.500 In.
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Length: 5.750 In.
    • Tip Material: Stainless Steel
    • Tip Quantity: 2
    • Tip Shape: Round
    • Tip Type: Welded-on;double Wall;angle Cut;folded Edge
    • Title: Street Series
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Type: Cat-back
    • Valve Included: No
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • Made in the USA and engineered to last, for those seeking increased performance and better economy, MagnaFlow Touring Series Performance Exhaust systems deliver the smooth deep sound you want and the wide-open performance power you need. Our exhaust systems feature straight-through flow designs for the ultimate in unrestricted horsepower and torque for big power while maintaining exhaust efficiency. These systems are an engineered balance of interior and exterior noise levels and are tested against SAE j1169 standards.
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Infiniti G37 Sport Coupe V 6 Cyl 3.7L - 3696

Latest Infiniti Repair and Exhaust Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

White Smoke? Toxic Smell?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Gregmoniz on White Smoke? Toxic Smell?

I just bought a used Infiniti G35 sedan, and when driving it and looking at it everything seemed good but after driving a few hundred miles I realize s small bit of white smoke comes out my exhaust and sometimes black when I really gun it and my rpms are towards the top end. Also, right when I start my car and while I'm idling or sometimes when I'm driving it smells like exhaust in my car, I either have to have all windows open or all windows closed. There's no bubbling in the radiator but my father said there was a little when I gave it some gas. Does this sound like a very serious problem? Head gasket?

Response From Discretesignals

Is this a private sale? If you got this at a car lot, you might want to give them a call.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Probably more than just a head gasket now. Bubbling noticed and other observations are pretty damning.


Near red-lining it was a brilliant idea for an engine in distress or perhaps has put it out of its misery?


T

Low compression in only one cylinder

Showing 6 out of 17 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From kaioken on Low compression in only one cylinder

I have a 98 Infiniti QX4, what could cause low compression in only one cylinder (cyliner 2 has 96 PSI)? How much will it cost to fix if it's the ring or clogged exhaust valve or shoud I just get a new engine? the current engine has 186,500+ miles. because of the low compression it obviously has some starting issues but only when it has been driven and then sits for about a half hour. It then takes holding the starter on for a bit longer and then stepping on the gas to get it started. The dealership told me to put some oil additive like restore in it because it might fix my problem. So far it has. starts just fine everytime. Still can't believe a dealership would suggest that though. I'm sure this is just a bandaid fix and it will soon stop working. any suggestions out there?

Response From Hemi Guy

The most common causes of low compression in single cylinder are a burnt exhaust valve or rounded lobe on the camshaft. Have both (or one or the other) been ruled in or out? You don’t need to replace or rebuild the entire engine. In the worst case scenario, (a burnt exhaust valve and rounded cam lobe) a repair is possible. Note that this sort of repair is not for the faint hearted. You have to get the car to a real old time pro. Figure on spending just under a grand. The possibility of a stuck exhaust valve is also very real. For that try three applications of “Sea Foam” at one thousand mile intervals. Don’t pour the “Sea Foam” into the fuel tank. Instead follow the instructions on the can for introducing the “Sea Foam” into the engine via an engine vacuum source.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Your quote:
"The most common causes of low compression in single cylinder are a burnt exhaust valve or rounded lobe on the camshaft. " Any more questions?
Your quote:
" Now after writing all this I need a drink"
Me, too.

Oh, and by the way, The Purple Heart is awarded to one that is wounded or killed in battle. I'm not aware of an award that is given for 'killin' the enemy.

Response From Sidom

Wow so many questions......so little time......


How would Restore® make and engine with a burnt valve or flat cam run better?

How would a flat cam affect the compression test? (actually there is a good answer for this, I wonder if he can get it)

How on Gods green earth is someone with an Infinity QX4 going to get a quality valve job for under a grand????

Hemi guy.....I'm beggin.......I'm pleadin...........Please.......Put the crack pipe down & step away from the keyboard......

The 1st step is admitting you have a problem..........

Response From Hammer Time

ROFLMAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Response From Hemi Guy

No crack for me my friend. You keep it and have fun. Enjoy yourself. I’m sticking with “Jim Beam” J

Just a reminder to all those who responded We’re Talking low compression here not no compression. The poster stated compression test revealed a 96 psi in the second cylinder.

Worn camshaft lobe

Mild wear of a camshaft lobe will cause reduced height of the lobe or a flat spot on top of the lobe. Often this condition is called a "Square Cam". Even with the right valve lash adjustment the valve will open and close at the correct time, but it will not open as far as it is supposed to. Like this the engine will run pretty well at idle and up through midrange speeds. However at higher speeds the engine will lose torque because the valve doesn't open far enough causing restriction of high speed flow. At higher speeds the engine may lose so much torque that it seems like its misfiring. A tapping sound is also possible at any speed, but the tapping sound would sound greater at a lower engine speed. That’s because the engine makes less noise at a lower speed, and it makes it easier to hear the tapping noise. A badly worn cam lobe is called a "Round Cam". With this the cam lobe is worn down so far that it looks like a circle. With this condition the valve could open late and close early, and could also have a small amount of lift. With just a small amount of lift the engine could run nearly normally. At idle the engine could shake a little. On any speed higher than a slow idle the engine will seem to be completely misfiring on that one cylinder. To check for a worn camshaft you have to measure the valve travel at the top of the valve spring while the engine is turned slowly by hand. When the camshaft is removed from the engine you have to measure the cam lobes directly for base circle and cam apex height. Now you subtract the base circle diameter from the total lobe height to get cam lift. Now multiply the cam lift by the rocker arm ratio to get the valve lift

Now after writing all this I need a drink. J





Response From re-tired

I dont know what manual your quoteing but it has some errors. A worn cam lobe cannot have correct valve timing it will open late and close early .Compression will be near normal as the cyl stiill takes in air from the good valve . however it will show up as a weak cyl as the fuel air mixture is not being Drawn in. Valve lift can be determined by measuring lift at the push rod and multipling the ratio of rocker on a overhead valve eng or the thickness of the shim on a overhead cam eng. cam wear is asymertical and will always result in sympathic lobes .An exception to this of course is a broken cam where as the undriven half of the cam will always be late equally regardlessof of absense of wear.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

RT, your just making his head hurt now..............LOL

Response From Hemi Guy

(Quote) RT, your just making his head hurt now..............LOL

Not even close Hammer. Granted its 3:10 here in Ridgewood Queens New York, and granted I’m about half way through a fifth of “Jim Beam” LOL, (as already stated I don’t do crack) but understand something….I’m a big strong man and I can take it. Here’s a little background about myself. I started spinnin wrenches when I was 14. I put down the wrenches long enough to enlist in the Marines. I couldn’t wait to get to Nam, and once there I quickly earned a purple heart killin the enemy. After Nam I picked up the wrenches and started them spinnin again, and haven’t put them down since. I’m always willin to learn something new and different from a better man. I know a lot, but don’t claim to know it all. Now all you gotta do is convince me that you’re that better man. You have a right to disagree. I fought for and gave you that right. Now just post the facts buddy. If I’m wrong, tell me why? Facts only guy.


Retired,

Granted you may know a little something about engine rebuilds. Here’s a question for you. Straight up and with no tricks. Usin simple arithmetic and the information posted in my last response, tell us why why the industry standard rocker arm ratio is 1.42:1?

Response From Hammer Time

I quickly earned a purple heart killin the enemy.

That's interesting........... How many do you have to kill to get that award?

Response From re-tired

The ratio you have quoted depends on who and where you get your info from.....Im a student of the great Smoky Yunick . I have the ratio at 1.5 to 1. But if you want an extra 50+ ponies out of a stroker put 1.6 'ers on the coners with a shoebox single plane .I'm retired military ,lost a buddy in TET.What was your unit and dates of tour and where did you get heart ? I'm sota a nam history buff . I may have some pics of your unit .

Response From Hammer Time

Smokey Yunick, I know that guy.

He's the one that made that famous quote "Basa ball ben a berry, berry good to me"

Response From kaioken

Thank you everyone for responding. I have already started saving for a new engine...halfway there Woo Hoo! In the mean time I'll try some sea foam as one responder suggested. One note though My gas mileage is at 19.4mi per gal hwy and I have recently had the suv up to 105mph so I don't think the engine is misfiring. Hopefully I can get an engine from 2003 to fit in it. I would love a jump form 168hp to 240hp.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Hemi; Wouldn't a rounded cam lobe keep the valve from opening? If so, compression would be good. A dealership recommending snake oil? What's up with that? LOL.

Response From Hammer Time

You really should get a more in depth diagnosis before making any rash decisions. This could be as simple as a broken valve spring.

Response From Sidom

If restore is helping the problem then more than likely the problem is in the rings. Even though it's just one cylinder, to fix this problem the whole engine would need to be disassembled. Obviously tests would need to be run to confirm this, at the minimum a leakdown test in addition to the compression test that has already been done.

So basically you are looking at either rebuilding your engine or installing a new one.

It would make no sense to tear a motor down to rering one cyl. I can't imagine a shop willing to do that. Maybe a backyarder might but good luck finding that guy when the job goes South.....


Also I'm as surprised as you are that a dealer suggested that.....It was nice of them to throw out a temporary snake oil fix but it still surprises me they did given the nature of this business these days....

Response From Hammer Time

I would suspect that the additive suggestion was done as an alternative to what they really suggested which would have been a complete rebuild.

Lincoln towncar possibly transmission problems

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From superdoc28 on Lincoln towncar possibly transmission problems

Hello everyone, I have a 2000 lincoln towncar executive, recently i got rear ended by an infiniti i30 and there was light cosmetic damage(no dents) to the back bumper its a strong car and some muffler and underbody damage. After the accident as i drove the car home, it wouldn't accelerate past 40mph, the speed would slowly go down after hitting 40 and the engine would just rev up if i pressed the acceleration and it would only go back up if the speed hit 20mph, only to go back up to 40mph. My question is this, could this be due to the accident?? How would i go about proving it was due to accident? THe insurance company is only taking responsibility for the back damage and saying that this was not due to the accident. Can it be due to the accident? and what diagnosis tests would i have to ask for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

First........... you have to determine what happened before you try to figure out why it happened.

Response From superdoc28

ok....so how would i go about doing that? its my only car, i know its old, but it was running decent before the accident.

Response From Hammer Time

The only way you are going to find out is to get it to a transmission specialist so he can determine what is going on there.

Response From Discretesignals


After the accident as i drove the car home, it wouldn't accelerate past 40mph, the speed would slowly go down after hitting 40 and the engine would just rev up if i pressed the acceleration and it would only go back up if the speed hit 20mph, only to go back up to 40mph.
some muffler and underbody damage.



So your saying top speed is 40 mph? Did you make sure the exhaust pipe wasn't smashed or kinked shut?

Response From Hammer Time

I thought of that but this seems to point away from that.

the engine would just rev up if i pressed the acceleration

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I'm having a hard time trying to make sense from his statement. It could be revving up either because the transmission is slipping or the tranmission downshifted, but if the exhaust was corked the engine shouldn't rev up beyond how ever much the exhaust is restricted.

Have you checked the transmission fluid level? How damaged is the exhaust system?

Response From superdoc28

not sure how damaged the exhaust system is, could a rear ending cause the transmission to get damaged like that though?

Response From Discretesignals

Well, if they are replacing the muffler it must have gotten pretty screwed up in the accident. The transmission is in the middle of the car. Really the only way the transmission would get messed up in a rear end collosion is if the driveshaft got pushed up into it. The exhaust system runs around the transmission though, so it could have gotten into an electrical harness for the transmission. Only the person working on it knows what is going on here.

P.S. you don't have to make a bunch of one lined posts, you can edit and add additional information to one post. I don't need 40 emails.

Response From superdoc28

The problem is the insurance company isn't even willing to diagnose the engine because they don't believe its related to the accident since its not a front end damage, i have to take it to a third party and get a diagnostic which proves somehow that it is accidental related, so the insurance can even consider it, would pep boys do something like that? what type of mechanic is the right person to diagnose and let me know its accident related, so i don't go to multiple places and waste money i don't have.

Response From superdoc28

when i was driving the car after the accident, it just felt like it wasn't going into 3rd gear, after second it was stuck, as far as i could tell, but not an expert in cars

Response From superdoc28

to be very honest i have no idea, i do know the body shop from the insurance company are in the process of changing the muffler.

2005 Infiniti G35 RWD V6 Modification

Showing 3 out of 22 Posts | Show 19 Hidden Posts
Question From kyoto on 2005 Infiniti G35 RWD V6 Modification

Alright, so I'll very soon be receiving a 2005 Infiniti (Nissan) G35 RWD V6 that is completely stock. I want to soup it up by replacing the engine and transmission. I've seen some videos online about people putting LS1's and LS2's (which I believe are Corvette engines) into their G35s, and I was wondering if that is what I should use or not.

So firstly, what I'm looking for is any engine over 4 liters, a V8 with at least 24 valves, and between 350 and 500 horsepower to replace the stock V6 engine without requiring any or, at least very little, serious modifications to other parts of the car. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Secondly, I'm looking for a compatible 5 or 6-speed automatic transmission. I don't know as much about these, but I need one that will be focused only towards acceleration and take-off, not top end speed, as I'll be driving in the city and wont be able to top out anyways. Also, I'd prefer that the torque stay just low enough that the car takes off without burning out, or have very little burn out, but still giving it the maximum power for the fastest take-off. It currently has a 5-speed transmission, and the car has a curb weight of 3,395 lbs (~1,540 kg).

Lastly, I realize that these modifications require other additional modifications to other components in the car, some are obvious, some not so much, and I'd like to know what other components in the vehicle will need to be replaced so that they do not fail under stress. And also, please let me know of any other non-necessary but preferred modifications, such as a K&N air filter, that would be useful in increasing performance.

Thank you all for taking time to read this, my greatest appreciation to you all :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy! No question people have successfully totally altered vehicles and drivetrains and could even make them street legal. #1 is this site is ill equipped IMO with something that would be that extensive to be the right place for you if you really want a 500HP city vehicle!


Pretty much IMO I think you'll find you are only using the shell of the one car and virtually every required component, wires, controls and more than would fit in this site 100% swapped over with wild custom work to be functional let alone street legal. That up to reinforcing body parts/chassis parts for stresses beyond what was ever intended.
If you have a bottomless budget probably best to find a place that does the exact thing you seek. It would be difficult if a similar or same vehicle maker never mind this.


Others will chime in. My suggestion for ease (if you can even say that) for custom stuff anything this dramatic is go get as old a frame/body as possible using GM small block drivetrains are usually the choice of many,


T

Response From kyoto

Thanks for replying so quickly Tom. Yes I realize there would be a lot of work required, but I am prepared to do just that. The engine can be anywhere from 350 to 500 HP, it comes stock with 280 HP, so I assumed this to be a reasonable range, even though I know I would most likely use something closer to 350 or 400 HP.

But would I really need to replace everything? I was hoping just main things like engine, transmission, crank shaft, differentials, flywheel, drive shaft, and sway bars.

I know that there are plenty of shops that would do this kind of work, but I hoping to complete the task myself, because I enjoy doing this type of thing and take pride in my work. And yes, it would cost some money to do all of this, which I understand and am prepared for.

Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

Just one question. Is this going to be your daily driver?

Response From kyoto

It would be, and yes I know it wouldn't be the best on gas, but gas is nearly $2/gal here, so I'm not exactly worried, if that's what you're getting at.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - you even think about cost of fuel compared to what this would cost to really do up and work? YOU ARE NUTS! A perfect transplant to include more than I could list like brakes up the extra weight, suspension plus wild hassles of moving or cutting out body parts to make room, reinforce as needed, collision tolerance of alterations.... etc., you could spike $200,000 bucks - YOU ARE NUTS! For a glorified Datsun! Have it your way, Burger King,


T

Response From Hammer Time

Not to mention, it's totally against Federal Law to do that.

Response From kyoto

It's illegal to replace an engine and transmission and add a few supports? My dad did all of this, added the cluth pedal, and put in a Hurst shifter by himself when he was 16 years old to a Ford Mustang. So it's hard to believe that it would be illegal. and yea im totally 15 years old....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You don't get it. It's not that easy. Essentially you are keeping just the looks of one and totally changing over everything from the vehicle with an engine you want that never belonged in it, no communication to any controls thru computer anything nor would it plain fit without wild alterations to the body left.


I'm in MA and like some other places YOU would have to prove the finished car met all standards for public road use. Just the body you are switching from a chassis to unitized would be an engineering project so it would steer, turn, stop and handle basics. That would take tons of more engineering for suspension, wheels and tires.


Hey - I want to move to Antarctica and have an orange tree farm! Yes it could be done and about makes as much sense as this,


T

Response From kyoto

Ok, so let's say that I only added a supercharger/turbocharger to the car, and necessary supports, which I have seen all over the city and several shops that do this work, so I know it's not illegal. Is there any other BS laws to prevent me from doing this?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'm almost done for the night with this. It's not legal to be a pain in the arse but rather to be safe for others who SHARE public roads and you and passenger.


So much has to be thought out. The exhaust alone would be different and need to be heat shielded such that it didn't blow up in flames.


Cooling system would or should be enhanced to handle more heat to get rid of. If you want proper heat and A/C that would be another whole project and anything still has to fit.


Biggest problem is it's decades too new to alter and get any benefit that didn't harm it in some other way. Too much to consider to be worth it.


If you like a certain Corvette and engine why oh why don't you just get that car and get rid of this one?


T

Response From Hammer Time

Ypu just don't get it junior.
Yes, it would be illegal. That package was certified without that equipment. That equipment would dramatically change emissions and the engine it was factorey installed on was modified to compensate for that.

I'm tired of explaining nonsense to a kid that doesn't know any better.

I'm closing this thread now. It's gone far enough.

Response From Hammer Time

It certainly is.

That is an emissions certified vehicle and modifying the emissions package in any way is punishable by a fine of up to $25,000.


Quote:

Supplemental Information
Potential Tampering Liability Associated with Fuel Economy Retrofit Devices

The federal tampering prohibition is contained in section 203(a)(3) of the Clean Air Act (Act), 42
U.S.C. 7522(a)(3). Section 203(a)(3)(A) of the Act prohibits any person from removing or
rendering inoperative any device or element of design installed on or in any motor vehicle in
compliance with regulations under Title II of the Act (i.e., regulations requiring certification that
vehicles meet federal emissions standards). The maximum civil penalty for a violation of this
section by a manufacturer or dealer is $25,000; for any other person, $2,500.

Section 203(a)(3)(B) of the Act prohibits any person from manufacturing or selling, or offering to
sell, or installing, any part or component intended for use with, or as part of, any motor vehicle or
motor vehicle engine where a principal effect of the part or component is to bypass, defeat, or
render inoperative any device or element of design installed on or in a motor vehicle or motor
vehicle engine, and where the person knows or should know that such part or component is being
offered for sale or is being installed for such use. The maximum civil penalty for a violation of
this section is $2,500.

Installing any device, system or part(s) which affect the fuel delivery rate or the combustion
process would be expected to affect elements of design of the emissions control system.
Accordingly, any change from the original certified configuration of a vehicle such as adding a
system or parts that affect the fuel delivery rate or the combustion process, or the manufacture,
sale of, or installation of, aftermarket parts or systems which are not equivalent to the original
equipment could be considered violations of section 203(a)(3) of the Act.




ENFORCEMENT

However, EPA has established an enforcement policy, Mobile Source Enforcement Memorandum No. 1A
(Memorandum 1A), to provide guidance to the public to reduce the uncertainty regarding
potential liability under section 203(a)(3) of the Act for using or selling aftermarket parts or
systems, or making adjustments or alterations to parts or system parameters.

Response From kyoto

Why would I need to modify the exhaust system when I replace the engine, and possibly transmission? that may sound dumb, but can't I just connect it to the current emissions components, even with a slight decrease in performance?

oh, but that's saying I cant replace the engine at all because that would cause changes in everything it says....
so my next question is how are all these people on youtube doing it legally?
and does this law apply to vehicles manufactured before a certain year?
and wouldn't this apply to turbochargers/superchargers? but yet there are plenty of shops around the city here that install those

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I feel like I'm babysitting here.

Just the fact of using a different engine would be tampering. You have no clue at all what you're even contemplating here. Your engine is computer controlled for one package and one specific package only. You are talking about custom engineering the computer system and every piece of wiring in the car, not to mention the mechanical modifications required.

Forget it. You're way out of your league.

Response From kyoto

First off, I was just answering his question.

Secondly, you don't need to repeatedly yell at me, even if I did do go through with this, it would be my time and my money. I simply wanted to know what it would take to do this, not be scorned as if I were a 5 year old child.

Response From Hammer Time

I simply wanted to know what it would take to do this, not be scorned as if I were a 5 year old child.

No, we think you're at least 10 years older than that.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - You need to understand using the body of a 2005 you really can only keep the shape and the whole rest of the drivetrain would be designed to your specifications but if you must (many places would) meet all the regulations such as emissions, safety equipment and a list of thing required for 2005 which would be what the creation would be you'll need some wild engineering and where I am approved of or not by a DMV with proof of compliance.


Totally to me most choose some old truck or car frame and do anything they want for how it will come out or look.


You may have seen some other one and the handiwork but chances are was a show only non true street legal vehicle for show and entertainment. That's a whole different game.


So far you don't seem to even know what you want just something you've seen and didn't really know how it got that way. At my end I see something finished that appears like an Infinity and everything else is something else and that kind of project if not pre-engineered already would take a team of assorted trades if you wanted to be able to have a useful vehicle other than for a parade or show could run wildly over $150,000US bucks on up!


So yes, people create interesting things out there from V8 lawnmowers and more just for fun. Do some checking on what you want for an end creation is what it would be and know that this site near totally concentrates on existing engineering of a known vehicle.


You mentioned a Corvette with such a drivetrain. It would be much more practical to just buy that Corvette totally and customize paint and esthetics to you liking that are useable if you want to really drive it on roads or just for special events type of thing.


In short, this isn't the site for creative cars but could help with one aspect of something to get right.


What you mentioned certainly does happen out there but do you have the place and people to do it that takes millions if you want something as a daily drivable creation,


T

Response From kyoto

Ok, thank you Tom, I may end up doing that, but if I were just going to replace the engine, from the stock 280HP one to a V8 one with at least 24 valves and over 4 liters with around 400HP, would I still need to replace everything? Which components would need to be replaced to handle the extra stress for just that?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

NO. I seriously now know you don't know what you would be getting into. Why would you care if a V8 or how many valves? Dumb, you could do it with a 4 cyl if you had the right designs to achieve HP wanted but you would ruin the whole car doing this.


HEAR ME. YOU WOULD JUST USE THE SHELL OF AN INFINITY and the rest would be fabricated. Apples and oranges on this. It isn't like the same car maker made another engine you wanted - that would still be a wild hassle.


280HP is plenty already. Add a lot more you'd bend things if it did have a lot more and need to reinforce areas. You are out of you league and this is just a whim you saw something on a video and no clue what it took to do something that might have worked.


Just that you are asking these questions makes it clear this isn't for you at all,


T

Response From Hammer Time

I think he needs to get out of high school before destroying his dads car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ya. Was thinking more about this. Why (not my job what people fancy for fun) would anyone care about any Infinity already with plenty of power for any driving want it for city use said up top. I don't think OP has any clue that doing this trick would involve unlimited funds that IMO would be a waste IMO again as who the heck would want it if it came out right but only my opinion?


So current suggestion is don't even try this as it would highly likely ruin two cars if a Corvette drivetrain was the choice you'd no doubt have to buy the whole car and wreck it doing this,


T