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Dynomax
1979 Buick Century Exhaust System Kit 8 Cyl 5.7L Dynomax - Dual Header Pipe Kit

P311-05D92F4    89017  New

Qty:
$185.61
Dynomax Exhaust System Kit
  • Dynomax Dual Pipe Kit
  • 2.25 in. Tube Size; Includes LH-RH Header Ext. Pipes/LH-RH Over Axle Tailpipes/Hardware
  • Dual Header Pipe Kit
  • Product Attributes:
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual
    • Exit Style: Straight
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.250 In.
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 1988
    • Min Year Covered: 1978
    • Most Popular Make/Model: Chevrolet Monte Carlo
    • Most Popular Year: 1987
    • Muffler Type: None
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250 In.
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 98149
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.250 In.
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • Manufactured and marketed by Tenneco Inc. (NYSE: TEN), DynoMax(R) Performance Exhaust is a leading brand of dyno-proven exhaust products for muscle cars, pass cars, diesel and gas trucks, Jeeps and sport utility vehicles. DynoMax(R) products – engineered for "Pure Unadulterated Power" –¬ include complete cat-back and axle-back performance exhaust systems; performance mufflers and the industry exclusive VT valve technology muffler; and a large assortment of accessories and related exhaust products. Each DynoMax(R) product features the benefits of worldwide global engineering resources. The DynoMax(R) brand is backed by an aggressive marketing program, including a national events program; easy-to-use website and digital and printed catalog; in-depth technical and installation information and tech line; and advertising program.
Brand: Dynomax
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1979 - Buick Century Custom V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Flowmaster
Qty:
$563.10
Flowmaster Exhaust System Kit
  • 64-72 GM A-BODY 2.5in. AMT
  • Dual; Dual Rear Exit; Includes 2.5 in. Tubing/X - Member Back;H-Pipe/Hardware/Super 40 Series(TM) Mufflers;50 State Legal / California Emissions Compliant This part is legal for sale and use on Uncontrolled (Non-Emissions Controlled) Vehicles and Racing Use Only Vehicles~ The following vehicles are considered Emissions Controlled Vehicles: 1966 and newer U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer Foreign manufactured vehicle~ WARNING: It is against the law to install this part on an Emissions Controlled Vehicle~ The following vehicles are considered Uncontrolled [Non-Emissions Controlled] Vehicles: 1965 and older U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1967 and older U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1967 and older Foreign manufactured vehicle~ The following vehicles are considered Racing Us
  • American Thunder Header Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Exhaust Series: American Thunder
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Rear
    • Exit Style: Straight
    • Heat Shield Attached: No
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: N/a
    • Material: Aluminized Steel
    • Muffler Count: 2
    • Muffler Part Number: 952548
    • Muffler Series: Super 40 Series
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Single or Dual: Dual
    • Sound Level: Moderate/aggressive
    • System Type: Header Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tip Diameter: N/a
    • Tip Quantity: 0
    • Title: Flowmaster 17119 Header-back System - Dual Rear Exit - American Thunder - Moderate/aggressive
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • For the person who is looking for a complete Header-back dual exhaust system with an aggressive tone. With easy fit in mind, these systems are mandrel bent for maximum performance and include specially selected mufflers. American Thunder systems deliver a moderate to aggressive interior and exterior tone and are suited to the enthusiast who wants their performance to be heard. Like all Flowmaster systems, the benefits include improved throttle response, power and mileage. Designed for an easy fit, these systems include all necessary parts and hardware for easy installation.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Flowmaster
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1971 - Buick Skylark Base L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 4098
Flowmaster
1968 Buick Skylark Exhaust System Kit 6 Cyl 4.1L Flowmaster - American Thunder Header Back Exhaust System

P311-0436B4D    17200  New

817200 , 15898 , 3068725

Qty:
$705.17
Flowmaster Exhaust System Kit
  • 68-72 GM A-BODY 3.0in. AMT
  • Dual; Dual Rear Exit; Includes 3.0 in. Tubing From Transmission X - Member Back; H-Pipe/Hardware/Super 40 Series(TM) Mufflers;50 State Legal / California Emissions Compliant This part is legal for sale and use on Uncontrolled (Non-Emissions Controlled) Vehicles and Racing Use Only Vehicles~ The following vehicles are considered Emissions Controlled Vehicles: 1966 and newer U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer Foreign manufactured vehicle~ WARNING: It is against the law to install this part on an Emissions Controlled Vehicle~ The following vehicles are considered Uncontrolled [Non-Emissions Controlled] Vehicles: 1965 and older U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1967 and older U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1967 and older Foreign manufactured vehicle~ The following vehicles are considered Racing Us
  • American Thunder Header Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65 Chemical Name 1: Nickel (metallic)
    • California Proposition 65 Chemical Name 2: Chromium (hexavalent Compounds)
    • Exhaust Series: American Thunder
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Rear
    • Exit Style: Straight
    • Heat Shield Attached: No
    • Inlet Diameter: 3.000 In.
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: N/a
    • Material: Aluminized Steel
    • Muffler Count: 2
    • Muffler Part Number: 953048
    • Muffler Series: Super 40 Series
    • Outlet Diameter: 3.000 In.
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 3.000 In.
    • Single or Dual: Dual
    • Sound Level: Aggressive
    • System Type: Header Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 3.000 In.
    • Tip Diameter: N/a
    • Tip Quantity: 0
    • Title: Flowmaster 17200 Header-back System - Dual Rear Exit - American Thunder - Aggressive Sound
    • Tubing Diameter: 3.000 In.
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • Prebent pipe kits. Flowmaster's 16 gauge mandrel bent pipe kits are designed to fit perfectly onto your vehicle with all the quality and performance that you would expect from Flowmaster.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Flowmaster
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1968 - Buick Skylark L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 4097
Flowmaster
1970 Buick Skylark Exhaust System Kit 8 Cyl 5.7L Flowmaster - American Thunder Header Back Exhaust System

P311-144723D    817409  New

15894 , 913250 , 17119

Qty:
$636.69
Flowmaster Exhaust System Kit
  • 68-72 GM A-BODY 2.5in. AMT DOR 409S
  • Dual; Dual Rear Exit; Includes 2.5 in. Tubing; Super 40 Series(TM) Mufflers; H-Pipe; Hardware; 409S Stainless Steel;50 State Legal / California Emissions Compliant This part is legal for sale and use on Uncontrolled (Non-Emissions Controlled) Vehicles and Racing Use Only Vehicles~ The following vehicles are considered Emissions Controlled Vehicles: 1966 and newer U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer Foreign manufactured vehicle~ WARNING: It is against the law to install this part on an Emissions Controlled Vehicle~ The following vehicles are considered Uncontrolled [Non-Emissions Controlled] Vehicles: 1965 and older U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1967 and older U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1967 and older Foreign manufactured vehicle~ The following vehicles are considered Racing Us
  • American Thunder Header Back Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65 Chemical Name 1: Nickel (metallic)
    • California Proposition 65 Chemical Name 2: Chromium (hexavalent Compounds)
    • Exhaust Series: American Thunder
    • Exhaust Type: Dual
    • Exit Position: Dual Rear
    • Exit Style: Straight
    • Heat Shield Attached: No
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: N/a
    • Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Count: 2
    • Muffler Part Number: Kit Only
    • Muffler Series: Super 40 Series
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Single or Dual: Dual
    • Sound Level: Aggressive
    • System Type: Header Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • Tip Diameter: N/a
    • Tip Quantity: 0
    • Title: Flowmaster 817409 Header-back System 409s- Dual Rear Exit - American Thunder - Aggressive Sound
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.500 In.
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • For the person who is looking for a complete Header-back dual exhaust system with an aggressive tone. With easy fit in mind, these systems are mandrel bent for maximum performance and include specially selected mufflers. American Thunder systems deliver a moderate to aggressive interior and exterior tone and are suited to the enthusiast who wants their performance to be heard. Like all Flowmaster systems, the benefits include improved throttle response, power and mileage. Designed for an easy fit, these systems include all necessary parts and hardware for easy installation.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Flowmaster
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1970 - Buick Skylark Custom V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
  • 2.5 in.; Includes Tubing/X-Pipe/Dual 4x9x14 in. Mufflers/Tailpipes; No Tip Incl.; Dual Split Rear Exit; Stainless Will Require Modifications To Fit Convertibles
  • Street Series Performance Crossmember-Back Exhaust System
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Buick Apollo L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 4098
  • 3 in.; Includes Tubing/ X-Pipe/Dual 4x9x14 in. Mufflers/Tailpipes; No Tip Incl.; Dual Split Rear Exit; Stainless Will Require Modifications To Fit Convertibles
  • Street Series Performance Crossmember-Back Exhaust System
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Buick Apollo L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 4097
  • 2.5in.; Includes X-Pipe/Dual 4x9x14in.Mufflers/Ext.Pipes/Tailpipes/Dual 2.75in. Round Tips; MultipleExitOptions; Stainless Multiple Exit Options
  • Street Series Performance Crossmember-Back Exhaust System
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1969 - Buick Special L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 4098
  • 3 in.; Includes Tubing/ X-Pipe/Dual 4x9x14 in. Mufflers/Tailpipes; No Tip Incl.; Dual Split Rear Exit; Stainless
  • Street Series Performance Crossmember-Back Exhaust System
Brand: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Buick Apollo V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -

Latest Buick Repair and Exhaust Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1992 Buick LeSabre stalls randomly

Showing 9 out of 78 Posts | Show 69 Hidden Posts
Question From bryan_kilco on 1992 Buick LeSabre stalls randomly

ok, ive had this problem occur before, and it is driving me insane!!

'92 Buick LeSabre Custom, 6-cyl, 3.8.

car was stalling at random. i could be on/off gas, uphill/downhill, engine warm/cold whatever....totally random stalls.

Then, my exhaust broke right before the cat. converter. The car was LOUD, but my stalling issue went away.

I had it into the shop to repair the exhaust and replace a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor).

Car ran great when I got it back. For about 2 days. Then the random stalling came back.

I just dont understand what could be causing this. The shops I've taken it to say they can't do anything unless it happens for them, and the check engine light comes on.

anyone?!?!

Response From bryan_kilco

ok guys....a little update.

car was at the shop. 7 goddamn weeks. they drove it and drove it and drove it, they claimed, and could NOT get it to act up for them. I go fed up and just went down and picked it up.
It ran fine for 2 days, and the only thing that happened was it hiccuped and check engine light came on for a second or 2, but didnt stall.

Yesterday and today it wont start. It rained both days. Moisture problem?! Should I spray some wire dry on it?
I think I'll get it running again and try to dump some water over the engine and see what happens.

this is INSANE!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some progress perhaps in that it reacts to the rainy day. I'd use a blow drier and dry out the high voltage parts and get it running again. Engine heat alone dries out unseen spots most of the time later. Then when it's running again but carefully spray the wires, connections, boots coil(s) and see if it will stall on one that you hit. Go one at a time so you might target the spot! Just a spray bottle like for window cleaner and easy on hot parts. Most water will do but actually clean water won't so use some table salt (tad) in the water to pollute it.

It's a bit off the wall but you can ohm test distilled water for instance and it doesn't conduct electricity - almost all other water will and exacerbate a weak spot's problem,

T

Response From bryan_kilco


well now im just confused. it stopped raining, but was still really wet outside. went out, she started right up.

idled for a few mins, then died. I restarted it right up with some slight sputtering/hesitation.

ill try the water bottle trick i guess. what parts should i really be looking to spray? plugs/wires/coils?

EDIT: I just ran it and sprayed water on the coils/boots and some other areas, didnt stall.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh well Is there a spot that rain water might be getting on engine too much? Since this is a total die out and not just skipping I'm not thinking the plugs or wires are the fault if this test was a lucky find.

Wire drier or WD-40 sprayed on suspect parts when it's not running might cover a moisture related problem for the moment and would be interesting to know if that worked and where you sprayed when it worked. Gotta do stuff like that item by item and try or you don't know which was at fault. The wire drier approach is the same as the wetting stuff approach. The drier stuff may get you running if it works but you know it's not a permanant fix,

T

Response From bryan_kilco

im lost here. i finally was able to hear the fuel pump humming for a few seconds today. so that rules out the pump, right?
I really dont see where water could be getting on/into engine parts as everything seemed pretty dry under the hood even after 2 days of rain.

=(

guess i just have to try a different mechanic and see what happens.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you hear the fuel pump pressure up AND shut off that's pretty normal. Can anything be ruled out in this case - NO!

I'm sure it's already said but if a blast of starting fluid makes it fire up for a few seconds then the problem IS fuel. You could also get an in-line spark tester (KD Tools makes one I have) and leave it on a plug wire to plug and if it doesn't blink there's a spark problem. That type of thing would help if you don't have long to catch it in act for at least a direction to follow.

I know we mentioned it back in this record setting thread that a new mechanic with just a cursory expaination of what the problem is might just nail it down. Tech's should jump on this and find the problem or suggest another if they are lost - it happens - not too often but sometimes the best of em "just can't see the forest thru all those damn trees" if you will and it's staring right at them.

What do you want to do about this at this point? Car can't be much use to you the way it is,

T

Response From bryan_kilco

well, as stated before, when we chekced for spark we also blasted her with some starter fluid with no luck.

I have to sincerely thank you all for all your help so far, and I apologize for this record breaking thread.

I'll probably contact someone else and try to get it into another shop soon.

Do you think I should just try replacing the coils/ignition module myself? seems like a fairly easy swap, and who knows....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not going to search back but if this is the 3.8 Buick - coil packs and module under then they aren't all that bad to swap out - rusted fasteners could be an issue. I'd be cheap doing that as a guess and go get used ones from a junk car that was obviously running when rendered junk which I can do here. Replaced one module new on an 88 Park Ave once that would run fine for months but would just quit when real cold only like left in a parking lot all day but always worked perfectly above 20F or if parked in a garage. Couldn't catch it in the act but witnessed it once only as no spark - tossed that with owner's permission that I was out of ideas and it did do it once again - I saved that part as if it did do it again it meant the old one was good! Gotta look and see if I still have that - I might! If the same thing I'd send it to you for the cost of postage! If I recall it was a couple hundred bucks - donn't know now what they are.

That was ages ago now and folks traded the car over that and wanted a new car anyway so it was never solved by me. I think there were 3 separate coil packs on that car - forget now??

T

Response From bryan_kilco

yep, 3 packs. you'd send me the packs for just the cost of shipping? I mean, I can go to the local junkyard and probably pick one up for really cheap...but if you have one that you KNOW is good....I can throw some cash your way if it resolves the problem!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Damn! Just tore my shop apart looking for that thing and it's not there?? Too bad as I knew it was good. I don't throw things like that out - like ever. Found new parts to GM updraft carb choke plate shaft that used to break, points, ballast resistors, trico vacuum switches for 60s GM power door locks (vacuum then) all sorts of cool stuff but not that!

That was the only one ever that was ever suspect in all the years. There might have been a different one for the same engine and just something like the color of the main plug was needed to match it or if just one coil pack had something different - too few probs with them to recall now and I don't forget much!

The "bone" yard I used to use most here let me scrounge around on cars over 10 years and didn't care what I grabbed like things like that and would just charge me like $10 bucks for what I could fit in a bucket!

It's great when you can go yourself as you can tell if the car was running when junked - with body damage in side or rear or some with fresh "rejection" stickers for emissions or safety and folks decided not to fix the car with a printout of why.

Oh well. See if you can find a known good one cheap,

T

Response From bryan_kilco

hey its all good! I really, really appreciate all your help!! Thank you very much.

I got a can of wire-dry....im going to see if I can pinpoint the problem next time it rains, and I think I'll take her for a ride today and see how she acts. I will also search around for a used coils and ignition module.

Thanks again Tom!

-Bryan

UPDATE (sort-of): I just took it for a drive all around the "block". Nothing. Came back, left it run while I sprayed some more salt water under the hood. Nothing. Took it back out, nothing. I killed the engine and am going to let her sit for about 20-30 mins and then take her back out again, as it seemed to act up more when I did this. Maybe a short or bad connection down low somewhere, where only rain water gets to it as it splashes up? this is really freaking weird.

Ok so Update AGAIN - car stalled 1/4 down the road, started a minute later, sputtered a bit while accelerating, and stalled once more in about a 1 mile ride.

is this maybe something to do with moisture in the heads? i heard that when you shut off a car that is warm, the moisture inside rises to the top of the heads or something?! this is really freaking weird.....

Response From bryan_kilco

wow, just my luck. problem still remains. =/

its back at the shop. the mechanic took it for a ride with me in it, and it didnt stall for him. ALMOST did....it like stalls, but then kicks in right away and keeps going. I left it at the shop and they are going to continue to drive it around and see if they can figure this hellish nightmare out.
this is totally insane.....Hundreds of $$.....for parts that arent fixing my problem.

I've done tons of online research here, and on the Buick forums.....most similar problems point to crankshaft position sensors....but wouldnt that make the check engine light come on all the time?

Response From wooley

bryan
I have a 92 lasaber with the same exact problem
we changed crank sensor and then went through and changed coil packs 1 at a time and still no luck i've been watching your postings to see what you have tried keep us up to date and if i have any luck with mine i'll let you know

Response From bryan_kilco

yeah this problem is a nightmare. still no word from the shop. I'm basically giving up hope, and am going to prepare for the worst. Every other time I've gotten it back, it runs fine for 5 mins, then 30 mins later I stall not even 1/4 mile down the road from home. Its VERY VERY aggravating and I really dont want to sell the car for next to nothing because of this.

pretty much, what it narrows down to, is coils/igntion module, or the computer itself.

someone mentioned it could be something in my gas tank, which is clogging the pump....but I dont know.

I also heard that the fuel pumps go bad in these cars, since they are inside the tank? and ....the gas is what actually keeps the pump cool. but...Im not sure if the pump is in the tank or under the hood....

Response From wooley

Hey I got mine fix today or for now it seems
we changed the mass air flow sensor and it is now running like a champ
i couldn't remember if this is something you had looked into or not
If you do look into it realy shop around I found the same exact part at 3 different shops the prices ranged form $105 to $195 and even more if I went to the dealer.

Good luck hope maybe this will help you as well

Jon

Response From wooley

just read back thru the prev post and saw you did change maf sensor but was just thinking that maybe your air filter might be in bad shape. If so it could let a lot of debris by that could easily clog the maf sensor. You might try taking out the sensor and cleaning it. They sell a product called mass airflow sensor cleaner for about $6 a can.
the sensor is real easy to change to, there are only 3 screws holding it in.

Good luck

Response From bryan_kilco

yep. MAF, VSS, and CPS all changed. Last I talked to the mechanics, they basically took the words out of my mouth when I was like "the other place I called said the only problems they've ever had with these Buicks is Crank sensors, coils/ignition mod., or connection problem..."

I'd think the mechanics would check things like air filter and fuel pump right off the bat, no?

and wooley, when I had my MAF sensor changed, the car ran fine for about a full day. then...BAM, stalled. I hope your problem is fixed, because this REALLY sucks. They've had my car for 3 weeks now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread has to be a site record in length! I'm lost. Bryan - how about starting a new one with where everything stands right now and all that has been done and ruled out? If that MAF sensor worked for a whole day perhaps the new one is a problem??

One oddity that fools folks from the beginning of time is plastic in the fuel tank. Particularly a non soluble peice that would usually be vandalism. It was a trick once that I heard of to fool all. A wrapper could float around and would be sucked over the pick up screen and when everything quit it would just take its time floating back away and randomly just do that again. You could test everything but almost never figure it out unless you took the gauge/pump and screen out or if it wasn't there right then you were still screwed - dang near need to replace a tank over something stupid like that! Hope that couldn't be it - could it?

Just a thought and I do suggest starting a new thread with an outline of events along the way. Perhaps this can be saved,

T

Response From bryan_kilco

sorry...i've just been stuck here at home a lot now, and fuming about this damn car.

i've had someone tell me that my problem might be exactly what you said - something floating in the tank and clogging. but...I cant see it being an act of vandalism, for I have a lock on my gas cap. Unless it is something else floating around in there.

and as for the MAF sensor...the one they removed was bad. It was put in by the mech we stopped going to, and apparently he put a used one in. the one in it now is brand new.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I thought by now you'd be posting a pic like the one above as the final solution to this problem!

At some point you start to question stuff you've already ruled out which really stinks. Sometimes things like this just need a whole new person to check out the problem and don't give them a history as at this point it probably screws up the diagnosis.

If it helps there have been some funny problems with gasoline lately with the plastic gas tanks - not this car and the junk they tell us is gasoline is just barely gasoline now and that's a problem!

Wish you luck,

T

Response From bryan_kilco

I really hope this isnt one of those cases where I'll never figure out the problem. So far, a total nightmare. My last car got blown up by some punk-kid that threw some sort of explosive thru my window.....then I buy this car for $700, test drive it...everything works and is sound for about 2 months, then everything shits on me. Maybe I will just let this thread die in it's rightfull manner....

Response From Double J

Can't let it die now man...We're all watching and waiting...praying for you...

I agree with Tom G....get fresh blood involved and say nothing about whats been done...

Reminds me of atime when I was at Chevy...we had a brand new in stock Cavalier that wouldn't start...
They gave it to one of the apprentice techs to repair because the service manager we had at the time wanted to get things done at a lower cost of sale...understandable...but when these guys couldn't handle it then we had to bail him out..anyway...this guy worked on this car for I swear to you 2 months..he had the entire dash out, probed and damaged every connector,replaced damn near every part,new Pcm, igniton switch,crank sensor,etc....cut and checked wiring,damaged harnesses...etc...it became a nightmare...well,the owner finally got involved because they pay the juice on this car to keep it on the lot....they gave it to another supposedly skilled guy and told the last guy to work with him on it....well,they compared notes as to what was done...what do you know,he couldn't fix it either...
Finally they gave it to one of the Journeymen, who,and I kid you not,had it diagnosed and running in less than 20 minutes.....of course it took the next 3 days to repair all the damaged connectors,wiring and put the car back to sellable condition....
IT had a bad camshaft position sensor...the time warranty paid to diagnose and repair,like .6 R & R .3 diag.
Now I'm not saying thats what your is,I'm just saying,the right guy sometimes can jump thru the right hoops.

Good luck to you...
JIm

P.S. Ever watch this old house..you know how they send Tom,Rich,Norm or Roger all over the U.S. to repair stuff...maybe we can start doing that here...Where are you?
Naw,can't do that,if we send Dave,we won't have enough bread crumbs for him to drop to find his way back...

Response From bryan_kilco

strong post man, thanks!

well, we (family and I) have been going to the same mechanic ever since I can remember, cause he's cheap and right up the road.

After having the car at his shop a few times, and him not being able to do anything to it, we took it to a new shop, where they replaced the sensors I mentioned before. Each time I got it back, I was certain it was fine, untill 30 mins or the next day...when it would stall on me.
So, after 2 1/2 weeks at this new shop, they finally got it to act up on them. Just waiting on them to actually do something to it and call me.

NOTE: I did test for spark while my girlfriends dad and I were tinkering with it, and when it wasnt starting, it appreared to NOT be getting any spark. we were testing some of the terminals (?) at the harness to the coils/ignition mod., and only 1 actually showed sign of current when key was at "ON" position.
after deciding it was not getting spark, we put everything back together, and I tried to start it and she fired right up.

is this pointing strongly to coils/ign. mod.?!?! plugs/wires are pretty new.

Response From Double J

Hey..
I certainly wasn't implying that your mechanic or the ones now are inferior in any way.
Just that some guys are great diagnosticians and some aren't.Some vehicles when the problem is intermittent like this can certainly challenge the best of us for sure.
Every tech, regardless of their knowledge,certifications,etc has a specialty and or a "thing" their good at and prefer to do.
Some guys are "grunts",some are finesse guys...
I used to work with a guy that could screw up a 1 cylinder tune up, and admit it... but man could he r & r/rebuild an engine, trans,etc...but a tune up/drive-ability,no start,forget it..
There is a procedure for performing diagnostics ,based on the symptom/symptoms, etc...In other words ,a no start condition ,chart will guide to a starting point to check and based on the results,send you down paths to find the problem...now granted,some times while checking ,intermittent problems will all of a sudden go away and the vehicle will start..so it can be frustrating,but eventually you should find it,And when you do, a lot of times its just the basics,simple correction..Or at least is sounds simple once you know what it is...LOL....
I'll try to find a diagram for this and post it....
With that said,to answer your question, sounds like it could be a module problem ,if module is getting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor, then it should fire the coils.
When it acts up,check for a cranking rpm with a scan tool.if so,module is receiving a signal.
JEEZ...don't even remember everything thats been done ...
Has module been replaced at all?
I don't feel like re-reading this entire post...post back with everything thats been replaced up to now...
I'll try to find the no-start chart...

Later

JIm

Response From Double J

Found the charts,,but too much to print.....
But your mechanic I would hope has access to these...

I remember you posting recently that the shop finally got the car to act up and "will call when they get the chance to check it out"....
It sounds like ,from that, that they didn't get right on it....I would think they would,this should be a priority when it acts up...
Parts that go bad when hot,cool off and check fine...especially things like sensors and modules....

A buddy of mine had one of these, he would have a problem of stalling out only on hard turns like an expressway ramp or hard right turns when the fuel was 1/4 tank or lower......his was due to a mispositioned fuel pump/strainer on the fuel tank sending unit causing the strainer not to stay submerged in fuel and engine starving for fuel...GM had a new design strainer/pump to install to cure this..

Jim

Response From bryan_kilco

parts changed so far: CPS, VSS, MAF.

neither the coil or ignition module have been changed.

I would have thought the mechs would get RIGHT ON IT as well...since it's been in and out of their shop 5 times, and this last visit alone is going on 1 month.

Response From Double J

I cannot believe that when it stalls and there is no spark that the module hasn't been checked/addressed.I would hope that they did.
HMMMMM.....
Sometimes the problem stares you right in the face...
Miss the first stair,fall down the rest....
Get a known good one and try it yourself....
I remember you saying the cam sensor was replaced with a used one...does that check ok?...

Response From bryan_kilco

well the no-spark thing there....I figured the mechs would know better than me. I just dont get why it wouldnt get spark, then a few mins later, start right up?

as for the cam senor....I cant even tell you for sure what happened with that. the old mech we were taking it to supposedly changed it, but I dont know if he put a used or new one in....the car still acted up, about 2 days later. I really am not positive what he did...he was getting old and seemed like he just didnt want to work on the car. tells me he replaced a CAM sensor, then the next time I call him and told him that when he DID replace it, the car ran ok for a few days....then he tells me "that's not the problem or the check engine light would be on"....

Im seriously very tired of all of this. and...if I have to get rid of the car after all of this, I'm REALLY going to be ticked!

Response From Double J

Thats the thing with electronics..they get hot and mess up..cool down and there ok..no rhyme or reason to it...
Crankshaft sensors are great for that...ohm readings, say should be between 900-1200,get hot ,can read 1300 plus..cool down there ok again...Saturn/GM has had a real issue with those...
Modules are known for that as well...I remember when GM first came out with their HEI ignition,made its debut on certain 1974 vehicles...my dad had one,an Olds....You could be driving along and it would just stall out,not start until it cooled off..sometimes an hour or more......in those days when it first started happening..it was a "mystery"...not too many people/mechanics were schooled enough yet on HEI ignition...We learned pretty quickly....
Yours has a different style ignition system than the basic HEI but modules like yours still act up the same...

Heres a suggestion that you may not want to hear or do but hear goes...

Why not just take it to Buick/GM and have at least diagnostics done on it...let 'em keep it until it acts up ..see what they say and then decide if you want them to fix it or take it elsewhere....probably worth the money for diag. compared to the grief and prolonged time its taking now....ask 'em to put their "best " guy on it...

See what happens....W T F..

Response From bryan_kilco

well, I did call the local GM dealer, and the guy talked to a tech right away. Said the only problem they've encountered similar to mine was crank sensor, coil, or connection.

Then, I called the mechinic where my car is, told them who I just talked to, and what they told me....and the mechanic basically took the words out of my mouth as I was saying "cps, coil, or connection".....

weird thing is.....I've started the car, and drove it right away (purposely NOT warming it up) and it stalled not even 45 seconds down the road. After it restarted, then stalled two more times, it ran fine for about another half-hour of driving.

if these guys dont call me back by Friday, I'm probably pulling it from their shop, and taking it to GM. I just hate to let them have it for almost a month and not fix my problem.

Response From idowindows

So have the electronics (security system) and the fuel (pump/filter) have been totally eliminated for this cause?

Or are they still "in the mix"?

Response From Double J

Usually the security (passlock) system will shut off the injectors and disable the starting system....this has no spark...correct?...

Response From bryan_kilco

well called the shop again. They were like "Oh yeah, we DO still have that car, dont we?!"



apparently, they didnt actually get it to stall for them, but it hiccuped for them. I have no clue what the hell is going on with these guys and I'm totally fed up. Its been a freaking MONTH and they havent done a single thing to it.

Now that you guys mention it, there was mention of a security error code being thrown a while back, but I think they may have solved that.

This is just totally insane. Never buying one of these cars again as long as I live.

I mean...what else can I do? Tell them to drop the tank? Change coil/igniton mod? Either I call them today and go pick it up and take it somewhere else, or just keep waiting, which doesnt seem to be helping.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

They're stuck - Take it elsewhere. If the shop it's at now isn't paying any attention now then it's over with them. Have they said or you asked what their plan is for this?

Has been rare but when something like this ever happened to me I must stop and talk to the customer and see what they want to do. "Do you want ME to send it along or do YOU want to find another place?" I have my list of places that work with me for assorted things like this and many types of work I simply don't do or wish not to as I've worked alone for ions and that doesn't help with some repairs.

A month now is too long. Allow some fresh blood to take this on,

T

Response From bryan_kilco

they havent said/asked about a plan for this. They just sorta say "we'll call you when we take a look at it".

It seems like it isnt much of a priority for them at all anymore. Guess I'll be taking it elsewhere. I'm just afraid the next guy will have it for just as long....

would I be wise to just ask them to replace the coil and igntion module, and go from there? Maybe if that doesnt work, I'll have them replace the fuel pump and filter....maybe check to see if something is floating in the tank?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's up to you if you want to start tossing parts at your direction. They should be able to do better than that. Give them a time limit as obviously it isn't even getting looked at. Ask them to drive it to and from work themselves if they will - that may speed it up!

T

Response From bryan_kilco

they claim to have been driving it to get lunch and parts, etc....the only thing that happened for them was a hiccup (the car sorta dies fora split second, check engine light comes on, but the car doesnt actually stall).

I told them to drive it for a bit, park it, then try driving it again....as that is when it seems to act up the most for me.

Response From idowindows

According to a quick search on the web;

"The filter is located under the passenger side directly under the door area. The car will have to be jacked up to access it. Be sure to follow the pressure relief procedure before disconnecting the filter."

Hope that helps...

Response From bryan_kilco

well guys, its going on week 3 in the shop with no word on the status.

I got fed up and called them. they FINALLY got it to act-up for them, and they will call when the get the chance to check it out.

*crosses fingers for the final time*

Response From idowindows

Well I don't want to be the joy-kill here but after reading the replies on your posts, I feel compelled to share with you my sister's story - in a nutshell.

She had a 92 Park Avenue (same engine as yours? I don't know) She had so many problems that sound just like yours it wasn't funny. The scariest part was the car dieing out on the expressway with her kids onboard.

After repeated visits to numerous mechanics and close to two thousand dollars in "let's try this", "this has to be it", "I'm sure this will fix it", she finally had enough and got rid of the car.

Bottom line, no one could properly diagnose a the problem and it was never fixed. Has sanity is back after she bought a new car.

Everyone has their limits...

Response From bryan_kilco

yeah I do believe the Park Avenues are basically the same exact car.

Ive heard so many stories about problems with these Buicks, and Im kicking myself in the ass for buying this one....but it was only $700 and seemed very sound when I got it. I really hope these guys can fix my problem, as I'd hate to try to sell it for next to nothing after I dumped $600 into it in just the past 2 visits alone.

Response From bryan_kilco

so...could anyone give me ideas of what this could possibly be narrowed down to?

sensors changed: Mass Airflow, VSS, and CPS.

no symptoms of clogged cat. converter, yet the problem pretty much went away when exhuast was broken before the cat., though it DID stall twice in the broken state.

I tried to clear the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for about 20 mins, went to start it and it wouldnt start at all. Half hour later, started right up. Didnt stall on the 20 min drive home, then the next day I drove about 5 mins and it stalled.

It seems to act up after I drive it, park it, then drive it again..... but it's totally random and gives no warnings whatsoever.
Pedal could be to the floor or I could be on the brakes, stalls either or.

I just wish I could end this nightmare of a problem and have a reliable vehicle again.

could this be a fuel pump or filter problem? coil/ignition module? Can't they test these parts at the shop?!

I figred that it would run like crap or wouldnt run at all if the pump was bad....

Response From bryan_kilco

sorry for so many posts....

Update: car has been in the shop for 3 days and no word. What a freakin' killer....been stuck here for weeks on end, now stuck here over the weekend.

Response From bryan_kilco

UPDATE:

just got the car back AGAIN from the shop. They drove it around for 2 days and it wouldnt stall for them, BUT - they did change a broken crank sensor, so I'm hoping all is well finally. I'll keep you guys updated.

Response From bryan_kilco

kick me in the nuts and call me charlie....

got back from the shop last night, fine. about a half hour later I tried to go about 5 miles away and it stalled about 5 or 6 times.

It seems as if the problem occurs after I drive it once, shut it off, then try to drive again.

I can't take this anymore....in and out of the shops countless times, $500 + just last week......

Response From Lando10101

Does that vehicle have a passlock security system ? Is the ignition switch a combo type with the electric circuits in it ? Is there any play at the key when you try to turn the car over ?

Response From bryan_kilco

i have no idea what passlock is. no play with key in ignition.

no clue what type of ignition, either.... =/

i thought maybe it was just something to do with temperature or moisture, as it seems to not stall as much when it is colder out.
but it stalls when its dry or raining. I dont get it. GOing back to the shop today.

Response From DanD

No not necessarily, if the sensor is giving out a signal but an erratic signal, it may set a code.
If the signal just stops as in the sensor or sensor circuit goes open; the computer assumes that the crank has stopped rotating and in turn, shuts down the rest of the system.

Dan.

Response From bryan_kilco

so....let's say the mechanic can't figure out the problem..... should I have him replace CRANKshaft position sensor, as a start? he said they might replace the CAMshaft sensor, and go from there. but I allready dumped $450 into this car in about a week, and 2 mech visits. =/

i'd hate to see this problem make me get rid of the car.

Response From DanD

With me sitting here at a key board, it’s easy for me to say go for it and replace the sensor. But with everything I’ve read here and if I haven’t missed it, the crank sensor is one of the things you haven’t replaced.
I’ve replaced a lot of them just for this every same elusive can’t put my finger on the problem and it’s cured the issue.
After saying that, it’s still a crap shoot that it’ll fix the problem. Now if the shop that has been trying to find this has any feelings toward you and their pride they’ll admit that this is a chance and do the labour at a break even valve. With the proper tools it’ll only take them, oh about 15 minutes to do and if you’re willing to go the parts everyone may win?

Dan.

PS: Have you printed this thread off and given it to the techs that are dealing with this; if so what was their reaction? Did they show actual interest or just fluff it off?
If they have closed their minds on your input, then it’s time to find someone who will keep an open mind. Not that they are not good at diagnosis; it’s just a new perspective on an issue might turn a corner for everyone?

Response From dave284

Just for my curiosity, what came up on the codes???????????????????????????????????????????????????? sorry guys I want to see how this post ends

Response From bryan_kilco Top Rated Answer


Just for my curiosity, what came up on the codes???????????????????????????????????????????????????? sorry guys I want to see how this post ends

Response From Lando10101

We keep several new and used parts in stock for these type of issues . Ask them to check all your ground circuits as well . That dang Crank Sensor does not like to leave a trouble code trail that is for sure 0-o

Response From bryan_kilco

well its been at the shop for 2 days now, and they havent called back. I guess I should just call them and tell them to replace crank position sensor if possible.

Response From bryan_kilco

well, I cant print from this computer since I have no printer, but I did give them a list of possiblities that I heard from you guys here.

Just recently started going to a new mechanic, and they seem like allright guys.
I'm not sure if they will do the work for basically free, just to narrow down the problems. They should be calling today, hopefully, with some good news. This is just an on-going nightmare for me.

Response From hate cars

what do you have for a tranny, is it a 4 speed or a 3. i had a GM with a 3 speed that the lock up switch was f---ing up and made the car stall out. when it was cold / hot some times 1 a day and other time 6, 7, 8, and all types of road condition.

Response From Lando10101


what do you have for a tranny, is it a 4 speed or a 3. i had a GM with a 3 speed that the lock up switch was f---ing up and made the car stall out. when it was cold / hot some times 1 a day and other time 6, 7, 8, and all types of road condition.


I have come across one mid 90s pontiac where the prob was a transmission sensor we had heck finding it till the sensor actually burt melting some of the harness wires . gave intermittent cutting out etc .

Response From bryan_kilco

ok, so she's back in the shop and the mechanic called and said the only error code that came up was the Mass Airflow.

He changed it and I am waiting on a ride to go pick it up.

I REALLY freaking hope my problem is solved..... =/

Response From bryan_kilco

got it back and so far, so good. no stall on the way back home.

hopefully she stays good!

Response From bryan_kilco

well ive been driving it here and there while i wait to get it to the shop.

seems as though once it stalls a few times, it starts running poorly as well....misfiring/sputtering when accelerating.

Yesterday morning I made it to work fine, didnt stall once. Today it stalled within 2 mins of driving. AHHH!!!!

Response From bryan_kilco

its a 4 speed.
1 2 D OD

Response From Double J

HI

Hey if the check engine light comes on,take it autozone or a chain type parts store,they will scan the data/codes for free.
then post code/codes here..we can try to help that way.

Just give more info as well....like when it stalls out,does it restart right away or does it have to sit for x amount of time?

Response From bryan_kilco

sometimes it starts right back up, other times it wont start for minutes or even days.

Response From Double J

ok
see if you can get the codes read first...lets start there...post back results...

many things can cause a random stalling out concern....
when it doesn't restart,see if you can check to see if it has spark and or fuel..

really don't want to throw ideas out until i know the codes or if it has spark or fuel.

but one common problem for these can be crankshaft position sensors....but why spend money until your sure...
start with a code reading and lets go from there...
one of us should be able to help you ....

JIM

Response From bryan_kilco

ok, i forgot to mention - a camshaft sensor WAS replaced a few months ago. The car didnt stall for about 2 weeks after, then started acting up again. The local mechanic couldnt figure out the problem, and I was tired of wasting money at his shop (he just wouldnt fix things that i would tell him to fix)....so i took it to a different shop just a few days ago. It ran fine for about 2 days, and now it's stalling again.
Maybe a bad cam sensor was installed?!?! The guy at the shop asked if a cam sensor was previously replaced, and i told him yes.....

Response From way2old

Haave you had the crankshaft sensor or ignition module checked? Possibly even the coil assembly could be the problem.

Response From bryan_kilco

well I think it's going back to the shop tomorrow, hopefully they can figure this out. It's been acting up a lot today.....I can't even drive 5 minutes from my girlfriends house to my house without it stalling. what I dont understand is - why did the problem go away when my exhaust was broken?!?!
someone told me it could be a clogged cat. converter...but I also heard that a clogged converters symptoms are misfiring while going uphills/accellerating.

Response From DanD

Sorry to jump in here but I’d lay money on the crank sensor or a bad connection at the crank.
Why I’m thinking connection is that the camshaft’s and crankshaft’s wiring harness’s run together in the same loom and are relatively close together; unplug one you’re going to disturb the other.
Plus these older 3.8’s were known for crank sensors; try doing what GM calls “simulate road shock” in other words hit the sensor. I don’t mean beat the crap out of it just some light taps. I usually use a long 3/8-drive ratchet extension; with the extension you can (with the engine running) reach down to the sensor and tap on the side of it. If the engine stalls, hiccups anything replace the sensor.
Also have a look at the terminals inside the wiring harness connector; making sure that none of the terminals have spread apart allowing an intermittent connection.
What I’ve done to check the harness (female) terminals for the proper tension; is to take an old sensor or any other connector apart; one that has the same style of male spade terminal that fits the female harness. Take one of the terminals you’ve just salvaged and slide it into the harness terminal you’re checking. You should feel a slight drag and the test terminal shouldn’t fall out no matter how hard you shake the harness.
As for why the car ran ok with the broken exhaust is likely the under hood temperatures were much lower, due to the lack of backpressure, that the exhaust normally creates.
All of the suggestions given here are worth printing off and taking in to the repair shop you’re going to deal with. Most any good technician would at least read it and it might give them a new way of looking at the problem?

Dan.

Response From bryan_kilco


Sorry to jump in here but I’d lay money on the crank sensor or a bad connection at the crank.
Why I’m thinking connection is that the camshaft’s and crankshaft’s wiring harness’s run together in the same loom and are relatively close together; unplug one you’re going to disturb the other.
Plus these older 3.8’s were known for crank sensors; try doing what GM calls “simulate road shock” in other words hit the sensor. I don’t mean beat the crap out of it just some light taps. I usually use a long 3/8-drive ratchet extension; with the extension you can (with the engine running) reach down to the sensor and tap on the side of it. If the engine stalls, hiccups anything replace the sensor.
Also have a look at the terminals inside the wiring harness connector; making sure that none of the terminals have spread apart allowing an intermittent connection.
What I’ve done to check the harness (female) terminals for the proper tension; is to take an old sensor or any other connector apart; one that has the same style of male spade terminal that fits the female harness. Take one of the terminals you’ve just salvaged and slide it into the harness terminal you’re checking. You should feel a slight drag and the test terminal shouldn’t fall out no matter how hard you shake the harness.
As for why the car ran ok with the broken exhaust is likely the under hood temperatures were much lower, due to the lack of backpressure, that the exhaust normally creates.
All of the suggestions given here are worth printing off and taking in to the repair shop you’re going to deal with. Most any good technician would at least read it and it might give them a new way of looking at the problem?

Dan.

Response From DanD

I didn't think it was that great of a post that it needed repeating. LOL

Dan

Response From bryan_kilco

haha sorry I tried to quote you but for some reason the question I asked didnt show up....

where is the sensor/harness located? is it the thing that is plugged into the front of the coil pack/ign. module?

I just found out that I can't get it to the shop until NEXT monday, so im a bit stressed now......I need to be able to get around, as I'm in a band and we have a show coming up this week. Not good.

Response From DanD

is it the thing that is plugged into the front of the coil pack/ign. module?
No that’s the ignition module; you’ll find the crank sensor and its wiring harness connected to it, below the module at the crankshaft pulley.
But if you’re thinking of replacing the crank sensor, you’ll likely need a puller and a sensor-locating (positioning) tool to do it. The crankshaft pulley needs to be removed before the sensor will come off.
Besides that there are more tests that can be performed before condemning the sensor.
I would wait until you can get the car in for diagnosis. Maybe rent something to drive for your show; there must be someone in your area that has a rent a wreck or ugly duckling used car rental business?

Dan.

Response From bryan_kilco

yeah, Im just going to wait to get it checked out.
I'm sure I'll find a ride to the show somehow.
I simply cannot afford to rent anything, I have been out of work for about 3 weeks now....not good.

Thanks for all the help, guys! I greatly appreciate it!!

Response From way2old

Hey Dan. Always willing to have you jump in. About all I can offer on other than F--- is generic or look at diagrams and hope for a lucky guess. Good to see you are still around.

Response From DanD

The new shop here keeps me busy during the day and with me falling asleep right after supper in the evenings is the biggest reason for not seeing as much of me lately. LOL
Today’s kind of a slower day and I’ve had some time to play; the tec’s are wondering why I’m staying in my office, instead of getting involved with the repairs?
I asked/told the youngest guy here; that after twenty five more years then him of pulling wrenches, is why I’m sitting down; what’s his excuse for dragging his A$$?
He didn’t know what to say and went back to work; at times its good to be the boss. LOL

Dan

Response From way2old

Plugged converters are a possibility. Usually the power will gradually decrease as it is warming up. The warmer the vehicle, the quicker it stalls. In your earlier post you stated it ran good when the exhaust broke. That is a sure test for plugged converter.

Response From Double J

HEY

lets get the codes if possible...then go from there..
try to find if there is no spark when it doesn't start..
if not....a good scanner with data stream capabilities will be needed to check for cranking rpm...

if you have a dvom,(digital volt ohm meter) measure resistance at the cam sensor and crank sensor when it stalls out....
was the sensor that was replaced new or used?

2002Buick Century V6 103K

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From chickenhouse on 2002Buick Century V6 103K

Runs fine, ses light on shows code P0420. I'm thinkin plugs & wires?

Response From Hammer Time

Nope, that's a bad Catalytic Converter. It could have been a misfire that ruined the Cat but your looking at a new Cat now.

Response From chickenhouse

Thanks, will inform.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You can get an aftermarket cat installed at an exhaust shop for usually around $200 to $250.

Response From chickenhouse

Yea, that;s kinda what I was thinking. My brother passed 4 years ago & we have inherited the maintainence on all belongings for his widow, in the 70's. Maybe put plugs & wires on then a cat. Will see how her finances work out. Thanks Hammer

Response From chickenhouse

Spoke with her today, the cat was replaced less than 1 year ago. Again, car runs great. Does not feel like any misfire but the way the coils fire it would be hard to detect. Will put in plugs & wires next.

Response From Hammer Time

No, that code can be nothing but a bad cat.

Response From chickenhouse

Hammer- I was going on the theory that if the cat only lasted less than a year, replacing the cat will be temporary because the plugs may be bad allowing unburned gas to stop up the cat. Was not looking to cure the ses light with a tune up.

Response From Hammer Time

OH, OK
In that case you would be right. If you have a bad misfire or if it's burning coolant, it will wipe out the cat in pretty short order.

Response From chickenhouse

Up date, gave the car back to her. Running fine. Seems the ses light has been on since she replaced the cat. No one shut it off. I don't have an obd2 & battery disconnect is of no use. At least she dosen't mind the light. Thankx Hammer.

Response From Hammer Time

How did you read the code? Whoever read the code should have been able to clear it. If she has an Autozone in the area, they will read and clear it for free.

Response From chickenhouse

I took it too Autozone & had them scan it. In Heber Springs AR, they are not allowed to reset the computer.

Response From Sidom

Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, turn the headlights on & pump the brk pedal about 20 times & then hook it back up.....That should clear the light.

Response From chickenhouse

HEY- I'll try it! Do I have to hold a coat hanger in my left hand out the window, right foot in the glove box & well, you know. Just kidding. I will try this. Thanks sidom!

Response From Hammer Time

HEY- I'll try it! Do I have to hold a coat hanger in my left hand out the window, right foot in the glove box & well, you know.

That works best when done in a thunder storm. It erases all memory, including your own...................LOL

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Try burying a dishrag in the moonlight. Works every time. Ooooops. That's for warts.

Response From chickenhouse

NO CRAP! She was talking about that when I gave her the car back!! You guys know each other or just go to the same "old wives tale " school?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>"old wives tale " <<
Hey, don't knock it 'til you try it! Of course, if your neighbors see you doing it, you may have some 'splainin' to do.

Response From chickenhouse

Trust me, I know. Will get the car back next week. Thanks guys

Response From Sidom


Do I have to hold a coat hanger in my left hand out the window,
Actually that's trick #2.... Disconnect both cables & touch them together, if they are to short & won't reach you can use a wrench or COATHANGER to bridge the gap....... . . .. In a pinch I use that one...... It's faster. . . . Either one, besides erasing codes resets all adaptive memorys to factory defaults.... Basically might drive a little different for a couple of days until the comp relearns..........

Response From Double J

Here in Illinois,they're not allowed to clear any codes either.

They do for me when i'm there,but normally they won't .

Response From chickenhouse

That's bout as dumb as dry counties- in which I live! Sorry, got off topic.

Response From Hammer Time

That's strange. They do everywhere else.

2001 buick regal bogging down

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From bornbilly on 2001 buick regal bogging down

My 2001 buick regal is bogging down and not accelerating. It starts and runs but takes about 5 minutes to get up to 50 mph. At an idle, it sounds like it is being muffled when I give it gas. It seems to shift fine and the transmission fluid level is good. I checked the air filter and changed the fuel filter so far and there is no change in performance. Is there a module that could be bad or the catylatic converter possible stopped up? It just seems like it is not getting gas. Please help.

Response From dmac0923

any check engine lights on?

throttle linkage free moving/full range of motion?

all four wheels free? no brakes hanging up?

Response From bornbilly

There are no lights on and everything seems to be free moving...linkage and brakes.
I did notice when I rev it up in park, it puts out some white smoke...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

To add to dmac's suggestions and do check for exhaust restriction. Easy way - put a "T" on actual intake manifold vacuum so device it operated is still enabled and should read about 18 at idle and with no load, read again at about 2,000 RPM. Should read close to the same. If it drops at high idle it suggests an exhaust restriction. Sometimes it's not the converter but the muffler sometimes gets rusty inside - not so common but happens,

T