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95 Buick Riviera SOLUTION!!!

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Question From DamselInDistress on 95 Buick Riviera SOLUTION!!!

HT I am so very sorry for seeming as if I blew you off after all your help!

Last week brought a great lead on a job (which I did get this past Monday), and I just had to take a hiatus from all this. But I had every intention of coming back here to let you know the verdict, oh....and to let you know that you were so on the right track with the voltage drop test!

I did take her to another mechanic out of desperation, another idiot....I just seem to attract that apparently. This guy found a code in the history which lead him to the Crankshaft Sensor. Since you, me, brother, and botched fuel pump job has all shown to be an issue with the fuel, that diagnosis really fried my brain!

Finally decided I needed to bring in brother (again) and ask what he though of that one. A few choice words among other things....lol.

I let him know that "this guy on the internet is really trying to help and the only other one who seems to know what he's talking about"....and through this conversation it came up that not only was the seal left off, but if only you could see the botched wiring job because the plug is different on the new plug.

That's when a light bulb went off and he asked "how it was done?" Me not having a clue as to wiring procedures in a car being any different, I just said "uh....only four wires Mike, all twisted together and color coded."

His response (again some choice words), go to the parts store and tell them you need butt connectors and a crimper. (Sigh) This is when I got a big lesson in "resistance" in a car's wiring. IT WAS causing a voltage drop which of course resulted in stalling.

Damn! Could kick myself for all this! (live and learn)

So the car was then running awesome, even took her on the Interstate....was just down to one more issue, that damn vent port on the pump not connecting anywhere really concerned me. It just didn't make sense that it vents "nowhere". (thank God for common sense)

I stopped into a dealership and asked them about it, of course they said it should connect to the venting system...but damned if I could find the hose. So I took it to the transmission shop who now knows me by first name. Lol They were willing to put it on the racks in their "free time" and see if they could find it for me. Took them a few days, but I assure you I am just grateful they were so gracious.

In summary, once the pump was actually sealed, the wiring actually connected properly (have no soldering gun or I would have used that), and the vent line runs into the system...we are finally GOOD!

I have learned my lesson in a big way, just wish I knew a "good" mechanic here. I have had three people who call themselves "mechanics" physically see this job and still scratch their heads. It took two mechanics (you and my brother) who never had that luxury to actually help me get it fixed. :(

If you know someone in the Kansas city area who is GOOD.....my car will be a regular there!!!

My car, my brother, and more than anything....I THANK YOU!!!!

Happy Thanksgiving! :)




Response From Hammer Time

Well, glad to hear you got it resolved. Wish you had mentioned those twisted wires a lot sooner. This guy must have been a complete moron. You just don't do things like that. You find a good shop through "word of mouth". Ask your friends, ask on Facebook, check Yelp, check Angies list.... all kinds of ways to find the right guy and once you find one, stick with him. Don't look for the lowest price because that is when you find the morons.

I'm going to put a link to this thread in your previous question. We try to keep the solutions with the questions for the benefit of other people reading this.

Response From DamselInDistress

Well, glad to hear you got it resolved. Wish you had mentioned those twisted wires a lot sooner. This guy must have been a complete moron. You just don't do things like that. You find a good shop through "word of mouth". Ask your friends, ask on Facebook, check Yelp, check Angies list.... all kinds of ways to find the right guy and once you find one, stick with him. Don't look for the lowest price because that is when you find the morons.

I'm going to put a link to this thread in your previous question. We try to keep the solutions with the questions for the benefit of other people reading this.

Thanks HT....really wanted to post the solution for that very reason. MORON doesn't begin to describe him. Lol

Not a doubt in my mind you would have saved me from all this aggravation if I thought to mention it. I had no clue about "resistance" whatsoever or I assure you I would have!

Yes, next "mechanic" will involve no quotation marks if you know what I mean. Lol

Thanks again, and seriously feel free to take me up on my offer to help you with anything internet related, that's up my alley I assure you!

All the best and Happy Thanksgiving!!

Response From Hammer Time

I can't write any code but I'm pretty good with computers myself, at least as far as keeping them running. Appreciate the offer. I bet you're seeing some real lousy weather right about now. We are getting a deep freeze here for Thanksgiving tomorrow, Supposed to hit the 40s overnight. Sounds like a couch and football day tomorrow.

Response From DamselInDistress

I can't write any code but I'm pretty good with computers myself, at least as far as keeping them running. Appreciate the offer. I bet you're seeing some real lousy weather right about now. We are getting a deep freeze here for Thanksgiving tomorrow, Supposed to hit the 40s overnight. Sounds like a couch and football day tomorrow.

You seemed like you would have it goin on in that area as well, very cool! :) No question Florida is a wee bit warmer (lmao), but it's been pretty damn cold here for a few days now. I think we may hit the 40's or tomorrow, sadly I think this is now appreciated. Warm enough to clean the garage and maybe just maybe start putting my truck back together. WoooHooo Will wait til the fumes die down and prove not to return for that one though! lol

Response From Hammer Time

An additional comment on your solution. Although butt connectors are far better than the twisting of wires that you had, it's not considered a good method in that environment. The pump actually should have come with some better butt connectors that heat shrink to keep the moisture out. What I would suggest now would be to pick up a small can of "liquid electrical tape"and use it to seal up the ends of the butt connectors to keep the moisture out.




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Response From DamselInDistress Top Rated Answer

An additional comment on your solution. Although butt connectors are far better than the twisting of wires that you had, it's not considered a good method in that environment. The pump actually should have come with some better butt connectors that heat shrink to keep the moisture out. What I would suggest now would be to pick up a small can of "liquid electrical tape"and use it to seal up the ends of the butt connectors to keep the moisture out.




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Have to go to Ace anyway, I will pick some of that up today! :)

Sooooo, have to let you know that I am 90% sure that when the tranny shop hooked up my vent line, it must have come unplugged from the other end. LMAO Really guys....CAN NOT make this stuff up!

I have been letting it "air out" since I got the car back the other day. (and not in no 66 degree weather HT, ) The fumes are back and I just don't understand it....that's the only thing that makes sense. But honestly, after this whole scenario....we are way past making sense! Ha

Any thoughts on where I can find the vent system to check this??? Cause, you know....it's the one part of my fuel system I have yet to master!

Response From Hammer Time

That vapor line goes from the tank to the charcoal canister and another line goes from the canister to the engine. You could also have a line leaking somewhere and it only leaks when the engine is running to put it under pressure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a note Damsel: That liquid tape stuff doesn't like cold so keep container warm at least. Of all dang things I have a critter that eats outdoor extension cords! Not sure what tastes so good about them? Am using that stuff and it works just slow - real slow to cure.

Eh - not comfortable with using heat to speed it up for near fuel anything, -- T

Response From DamselInDistress

Just a note Damsel: That liquid tape stuff doesn't like cold so keep container warm at least. Of all dang things I have a critter that eats outdoor extension cords! Not sure what tastes so good about them? Am using that stuff and it works just slow - real slow to cure.

Eh - not comfortable with using heat to speed it up for near fuel anything, -- T

Thanks Tom, will make sure I use it with the car in the garage. :) Do I put it directly on the fitting where the wires run into the butt connectors?

Response From Hammer Time

You're trying to seal off the part where the wire goes in so no moisture gets in.

Response From DamselInDistress

You're trying to seal off the part where the wire goes in so no moisture gets in.

Yup....totally with ya both on the liquid electrical tape. :) I am also trying to take care of this "venting problem" and have this job finished once and for all. Concept huh? lol

So I retract the vent tube being "the fume" problem, as I delved into the trunk once again....pretty sure it was a seal issue. I could feel some moisture which of course smells of gas. This is obviously on me since the first idiot never had one on there. So I googled sealants that were fuel resistant and came up with perminex.

Decided I really don't want to go into my trunk EVER again, so I pulled the pump out and found second o-ring dangling off the float inside the tank. Was almost a fishing expedition to get it out.

I can't imagine there should be two seals should there? There was the one on the brim which I put on, and somehow I guess he tried to seal God only knows what....which is why it appeared as if it was never sealed at all.

Good God the adventure never ends! Lol The good news is I believe this will take care of the fuel loss/fumes once and for all! I just want to triple check everything with you guys before I put it back together. :) Only 1 seal correct???

I currently have the one seal curing around the top brim of the pump where it will meet the trunk of the car to be secured. I planned on putting a layer of the sealant also around the trunk and other side of seal where the pump and trunk meet.....just to be extra sure it seals well. Am I on the right track here???

Please say yes Pam....you are!

Response From Hammer Time

Only one seal that fits into a groove and the lock plate compresses it. Make sure there's no dirt around it.

Response From DamselInDistress

Only one seal that fits into a groove and the lock plate compresses it. Make sure there's no dirt around it.


Got it. Everything is put back together...guess I should wait to make sure everything is good and dry before test driving??

Response From Hammer Time

How come you're having to do all this stuff. Don't you have any kids or friends to do the dirty work?

Response From DamselInDistress

How come you're having to do all this stuff. Don't you have any kids or friends to do the dirty work?

I know right!!! I have a 21 year old son....in Arizona!
In recovery here and sober for quite sometime, so I know several guys here and have tried my ass off to get someone to "step up" and help, they haven't for whatever reason.

At this point HT I give. It is as done as I am going to get it....hope and pray a lot, and take some peace knowing that by me getting in there today it wasn't half assed at least. :)

Response From Hammer Time

Drive it a while. If the smell is persistent, then you can revisit the problem later.

Response From DamselInDistress

Drive it a while. If the smell is persistent, then you can revisit the problem later.

Thanks for all your help....re-sealing seems to have done the trick. :)

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I think we can close this one now to keep the spammers out. Contact me or any other Mod by PM if you need it reopened.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

With whatever connection so long as it's good just cover it. Brush is in cap. Ya - I've done some wire nut or just crimp garbage not for this important but would be exposed so covered it all sides.


It will behave quickly if you test it indoors over wax paper to see how it behaves. Cool for assorted repairs. If you test it inside on some stupid thing see how gasoline tolerant it is. Not much is but the early stuff was -- silicone sealants are NOT by surprise you think they are and NOT.

For me just a handy thing in general, fast helps. Tolerates extremes well,

T

Response From nickwarner

We are getting a deep freeze here for Thanksgiving tomorrow, Supposed to hit the 40s overnight.

Really HT? You've gotten spoiled on that Florida weather. Was single digits a few nights this week when I left work. This keeps up and we'll be ice fishing in a few weeks.

DID: The reason the pump connector got changed was the factory plugs weren't too good at carrying the current. Had plenty of plugs get fried on them, and GM came out with a better one and had the pumps manufactured with it. So the new pumps you get at the parts house come with the pigtail you have to put in or the plug will not plug in. Sorry to say I've seen a few different cars like yours where people have done moron jobs on the wiring. Glad to see you're all fixed up now.

Response From Hammer Time

It's improved a lot here now but still a little on the chilly side.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great stuff. Home centers and hardware stores have it now. Close cap quickly or lose whole container fast,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are a sport kid. We call that "Wicked Pissa" (near Boston) and glad you've held on for the fix.

Hardest thing many times with car problems is DON'T GET MAD AT THE CAR! It doesn't care if you walk or ride and get used to that.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO YOU TOO.

Tom

Response From DamselInDistress

You are a sport kid. We call that "Wicked Pissa" (near Boston) and glad you've held on for the fix.

Hardest thing many times with car problems is DON'T GET MAD AT THE CAR! It doesn't care if you walk or ride and get used to that.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO YOU TOO.

Tom

Happy Thanks Giving to you Tom! :)

Definitely not mad at the car....more at myself! But "it's all good" her beautiful body is once again the center of attention on the road. Not that I am biased or anything. lol

1936 Buick

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From ThePirate on 1936 Buick

I am looking for a steering wheel for a 36 Buick

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer


Don't have one - they can be fixed if needed. Neat old cars!

T

1936 Buick Series 40

Showing 5 out of 10 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1936 Buick Series 40

Have numerous parts for sale and would like to know where to view or purchase parts catalogue. Only ones I can find are small parts would like one with motor transmission, etc.



(on edit - added a pic of the 36 Buick Series 40....... TomG 11-2008)

Response From ThePirate Top Rated Answer

I am looking for a 36 buick steering wheel...do you have one?

Response From Guest

Hello,

Just found your posting, do you happen to still have any parts for the 36, looking for body parts such as emblems, trim pieces, front bumper. Please get back to me.
thanks

Response From Guest

Hi, I'm looking for a transmission for a 36 40 series

Response From Guest

I need the hood hinge,and a door hinge for front door passenger side lower hinge.Hope you can help.
Thank You
Taco

Response From Guest

what parts do you have left to sell? thanks Dino.

Response From Guest

Looking for tail lights for a 36 buick and running board spears.
Let me know if you have them.
Phil

Response From Guest

Need hood ornament and front bumper for a model 90 1936 Buick. Doors for 1936 special or century and center pillars.

Response From Guest

Do you still have the parts from the 36?
Thanks
Rick

Response From Guest

Please send a list of the parts for the 36 buick that you have.
thanks
Phil

1990 Buick Skylark Coolant Leak (photos)

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From gladlybeyond on 1990 Buick Skylark Coolant Leak (photos)

Drove my car to work yesterday and just as I pulled into a parking space, I noticed my "low coolant" light come on. When I went to check on the car about 2.5 hours later, pretty much all of my coolant had leaked onto the pavement. I grabbed a flashlight and found the leak source, which was still dripping. It's coming out of a short pipe on the firewall that looks like it was attached to a hose, but I can't find the hose or the other end the hose attached to. Very near the heater core, but there's no leaking inside the car. Took some pictures on my phone:


General area of leak


General area from the other side


From above


The actual source. Note the wetness around the end of the pipe here - it's definitely the culprit - but what the heck is it? I can't figure out where it's coming from and where it's going to. Is this a simple matter of replacing a hose or does this look like it warrants more serious repair work? Any insight? Let me know if you need any additional information.

Response From Hammer Time

That is the drain for the evaporator condensation. Make sure it's actually coolant leaking out of there, not clear water, and if it is, you have a bad heater core. You can either replace the core or temporarily bypass it by connecting the heater hoses together but you won't have any heat if you do that.

Response From gladlybeyond

Okay that's good information. It was certainly coolant leaking - it was green, smelled sweet, and when I opened the cap to the coolant reservoir, there wasn't any coolant left inside. What would make the system purge like this all of a sudden? I haven't been using my heater at all.

Response From Hammer Time

That doesn't matter. It always contains coolant under pressure and it can't be driven that way.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That has to be the "condensate" (water) drain for A/C and would have near certainly dried by the time you could take a pic so it is engine coolant. Why oh why did you drive 2.5 hours with the warning of low coolant escapes me?

T

Response From Double J


Why oh why did you drive 2.5 hours with the warning of low coolant escapes me?





Tom, he drove it to work ,park it and came back to check on it 2.5 hrs later



Drove my car to work yesterday and just as I pulled into a parking space, I noticed my "low coolant" light come on. When I went to check on the car about 2.5 hours later, pretty much all of my coolant had leaked onto the pavement.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's what going blind causes! Sorry, I don't have my coke bottle lenses on

Tom

Response From gladlybeyond

I'd never dream of doing something so astronomically dumb, believe me. I had walked out to my car in the first place because I had planned on going to buy coolant right away.

I may be forced to do a heater bypass for the time being, but I'll certainly need my heater come winter. I can get the appropriate replacement core for $30, and I'm very interested in doing the work myself, since it's apparently a very labor intensive fix and that could get expensive! I'm going to check out the Chilton guide and see if it has anything to say. Does anyone have any advice on the repair if I decide to go that route?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This one is actually pretty easy to change. There is a cover and a tray to remove (#11 and 13) under the center of the dash and there is the core.

Response From gladlybeyond

Oh my goodness. That diagram is the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. Thank you so much, guys. Gonna tackle this thing tomorrow.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hope you can get that to print for you. Try not to break anything and be gentle with new core which can break just jockeying into place.

Let us know how you make out,

T

Response From Discretesignals

The toughest part is item 13 in the diagram. Gotta be careful because it likes to hang up in item 21 towards the firewall. Very easy to crack.

Response From gladlybeyond

I almost forgot to let you all know how it went! This is my first foray into car repair, so it took me quite a while - two 4 hour shifts after work and class. In my defense, a good portion of that was spent lying under the car or dash just staring at whatever stubborn component refused to budge, and another good portion was spent scrounging for tools (most of which I just borrowed from the biodiesel lab I work at).
$30 for the core, another $30 for some good jack stands, a couple bucks for hose clamps, and a couple more for a drain pan, funnel, and some good shop paper towels = ~$70. (I didn't go for new hoses; they felt and looked just a few years old, no more than five - definitely not 22 years old! Perhaps they were replaced before I bought the car in 2009) I talked to a guy I know who consults at a GM dealership and said the typical charge for that work would have been around $700 (at the dealer, but still!)... so I'm pretty pumped.

The car is running wonderfully and I'm kind of hoping some other easy-yet-tedious-to-replace-component fails so that I have an excuse to work on it some more - it's addictive! Thanks for all the input, I couldn't have managed without.

Response From Hammer Time

I talked to a guy I know who consults at a GM dealership and said the typical charge for that work would have been around $700


I guess that would make him a bit of a thief. The flat rate on this is 2.7 hours which would make the labor about $200-$260 at most shops and you already know what the part costs.

Response From nickwarner

Congrats on your first DIY repair. Glad it worked out. Realize that its not that easy now, huh? Welcome to our world and trust me you got the graviest heater core job in a front wheel drive car. They get worse in later models. Let us know when you need more problems solved.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, you can by-pass it and I suggest making it a "U" turn not just plugging hoses and think about new ones of those too.

Heater core: They don't cost that much but could be a tough job or broken little widgets in doing it to deal with. Here used silly crap is about gone for anything older with plain metal value exceeding about any wanted parts left.

Hope it behaves and no further damage than just that,

Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, you may already have serious engine damage if you got it real hot.

1996 Buick skylark wiring

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From dsawyer44 on 1996 Buick skylark wiring

I'm looking for the wiring for the instrument cluster on a 1996 Buick skylark. Thanks It's a 2.4 liter.

Response From Hammer Time

That's part of the entire inside harness.

Response From dsawyer44

I'm looking for the colors and wire numbers for the connector that plugs into the dash cluster.

Response From Hammer Time

You should have specified that.

Response From dsawyer44

Thanks for all your help. What i was trying to find out was what wires or number on the connector were for the srs light and also the seat belt light.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't have that but please make up you mind what you are looking for. I doubt the instrument cluster has anything to do withe SRS or seat belt light but if they are lit you will need higher end equipment than just wire colors and plug #s,

T

Response From dsawyer44

Here's the problem. I changed the instrument cluster because there was a problem with the passlock system. Yes the passlock goes through the cluster. After i changed the cluster, i now have a srs and seat belt light on. I never had this problem until i changed the cluster. I wanted to know which wires control the srs and seat belt lights in the cluster.

Response From Hammer Time

You're way over your head here. I gave you the use of every wire going into the cluster. This is not your daddy's 55 Chevy. It has modules and digital data lines.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Tried a salvage yard?