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Borla
Qty:
$732.82
Borla Exhaust System Kit
  • RSX 02-04 TYPE S 2.0L 4CYL MT
  • ; 2.25 in.; Includes Connecting Pipes/Mufflers/Hardware/4 in. Round x 8 in. Long Single Round Rolled Tip; Rear Exit;50 State Legal / California Emissions Compliant T-304 Stainless Steel
  • Touring Cat-Back(TM) Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Exhaust Type: Single
    • Exit Position: Rear
    • Exit Style: Straight
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.250 In.
    • Material: T-304 Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Type: Turbo
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: N/a
    • System Type: Cat Back
    • Tail Pipe Diameter: 2.250 In.
    • Tail Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Tip Diameter: 4.000 In.
    • Tubing Diameter: 2.250 In.
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: This Product In The Physical Form It Is Sold Does Not Present A Hazard. However; Operations Including; But Not Limited To Welding; Brazing; Or Thermal Cutting Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium; Nickel; Cobalt; Arsenic; Cadmium And Le
  • Borla Cat-Back and Rear Section exhaust systems feature patented straight through and multi-core technology to unleash hidden horsepower. Increased exhaust velocity adds power; driving excitement; fuel economy; and the distinctive Borla Sound of power respected enthusiasts everywhere. Each system is built from premium 300 series austenitic stainless steel; superior to T-400 series knockoffs; to give you the absolute best in performance and durability. Ultra smooth mandrel bends ensure maximum flow and power; and precision computer controlled CNC manufacturing ensures an accurate fit. Best of all Borla stands behind every system with a Million-Mile Warranty. Just what you would expect from the worlds most experienced and most winning exhaust brand.
Brand: Borla
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Acura RSX Type-S L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998

Latest Acura Repair and Exhaust Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Knocking in rear of 2002 Acura EL

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From madmax0527 on Knocking in rear of 2002 Acura EL

I have a 2002 Acura EL 1.7L. with 225,000kms. that makes knocking noises when going over any kind of bumps. I replaced the struts but the noise is still there. I checked to make sure spare was tight as well. but I'm still not sure where the knocking is originating. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Something is loose and it just needs to be inspected a little closer. Could be stabilizer bar, exhaust system, worn steering components , etc.

Response From madmax0527

Could it be ball joints or suspension?

Response From Hammer Time

Sure, it could be any number of things. Inspecting it on a lift is the only way you are going to find out

Response From madmax0527

Thanks, appreciate the help.

Engine noise from my 2003 Acura tl

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Jomoxroe on Engine noise from my 2003 Acura tl

Hi guys, I'm hearing a air like gushing sound coming from the engine of my 2003 Acura TL. It sounds like air gushing threw a tight spot and rumbling slightly. It does not do it when I'm at a high speed just when I'm running about 20-45 mph. The power is not affected drastically but you can feel a slight back pull like feeling. Please help me figure this thing out.

John

Response From nickwarner

Check for vacuum leaks and for any tears in your intake tubing. Are any codes present?

Response From Jomoxroe

Good deal ill check this suggestion. There are no codes. I'll let you know my progress..
Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Do we have a check engine light coming on here?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If not intake anything is exhaust anything leaking? Flex pipes can go out slow at first. If no codes to suggest anything to look for try to listen for it from outside, hood open while running,

T

Too much oil in my '94 Acura Integra

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Lina on Too much oil in my '94 Acura Integra

I have a 1994 Acura Integra and two weeks ago my brother put too much oil in it and when I drove it it got hard and a lot of white smoke was coming out. Three of the spark plugs have oil inside and one is dry, my uncle said that's not a good sign.
I have no money and can't afford to replace the engine if needed.
What must I do?

Thank you,
Blessings!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not a good sign. Probably was light blue smoke you saw but who knows now what got damaged. Most all cars can handle a quart higher or lower so it must have been excessive.

Not to be mean but your car doesn't care about your budget and yes this could be nasty expensive IMO,

T

Response From Hammer Time

If you fill up the valve cover with excess oil, it's going to burn that excess oil through a number of places and may even create some new oil leaks but most of that will disappear when the oil level is returned to normal and all the excess oil is burned off.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The oil on the outside of the spark plug would be due to a leaking valve cover gasket which could have been aggravated but the overfilling but probably wasn't caused by it. Clean off all the oil, even if it means removing the spark plug and letting it go into the cylinder and burn it out the exhaust. Get the correct oil level and then drive it and see if any other problems show up. You might be OK.

1987 acura legend head gasket?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jstew on 1987 acura legend head gasket?

1987 acura legend 2.5 overheats, exhaust coming from radiator when hot, no smoke , no coolant in oil. I used K&W block/head gasket sealer in it, no difference. The fans turn on when a/c is on, but not when engine is hot. Is there a second sensor besides the temp sender that triggers the fans? I swapped all the relays around to be sure they are good, they all work. The car actually runs excellent, I just dont know how big of a job it is to change head gaskets.???

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There would be a separate sensor for hot engine and some engines don't need the fans much depending on how it's driven and the temperature outside. If they really won't come on you'd notice the gauge reading warmer then too hot.

Head gasket job is cheap on parts and big on labor. Head really must be checked out for damage and there's a risk it can't be resurfaced for reuse or fixed. It's an old car now so a used one should be availble if needed and you should get some quotes and will probably be told two prices - one if it needs a head and one if it doesn't. See what you find and decide from there on this old a car and it's overall condition what you want to do,

T

1999 Acura TL Compression

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From kenscar on 1999 Acura TL Compression

I have a 1999 Acura 3.2 TL with 130,000 miles that I have kept meticulous care of and now want to sell it. I was showing it to a perspective buyer when the radiator hose came off during our test drive.
Yeah, during the test drive!!! Has this not happened, it would have been sold and gone. Anyway, it was the temp gage that gave the warning...no idiot light came on. I cannot be certain exactly how long it was running since the hose became disconnected, perhaps a mile or two, but it was not until we were pulling over that the engine started to knock. I reconnected the hose, got it filled with water, and it ran fine as I drove back to the house. I had the cooling system flushed and refilled with coolant the next day. The cooling system tested good with no leaks. The buyer was still interested but wanted to have their (dealer) mechanic inspect the car. Their mechanic ran a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system. This came back positive and they said it has a blown head gasket. There is no water in the oil, the coolant level remains full, and there is no loss of power. I ran a compression test this morning and got 230, 210, 230, 205, 225, & 230. While this appears consistent I am not sure what spec is for compression.
I still want to sell the vehicle but do not want to screw anybody. I can have the head gaskets replaced and recoup my money in the sale but I do not want to expend any more effort than is really necessary...and I am leary of dealers; they tend to be go overboard with repairs to maintain their integrity.
So the first question i have is: What is spec for compression on a 1999 Acura 3.2 TL?
The big question: Is it necessary to have the head gaskets replaced? Also, what is the risk of not replacing them? How long can it run like this?

Thanks for your help
~Ken

Response From Sidom

Well 1st off Ken I would like to commend you on the way you are going about this..... Most people wouldn't give it a second thought & just move on to the next unsuspecting buyer.... You're a decent person....

I don't have a maxium spec but minimun is 135 lbs with a 28lb max variation. Those readings actually seem a bit high but the cylinders could be carboned up & that would account for high readings...... The reading don't look too bad but that 205 is right on the edge..... I would hate to see you spend unnecessary money but a leakdown test on the suspected cylinders would confirm a bad head gasket. Also a pressure transducer & labscope would confirm that & be easier to run.

Is the car using any coolant? HCs are measured in "parts per million", did they say how many ppms there was?

You said you ran the compression test, if you have an air compressor you could run a leakdown test (sort of) youself. I would bring the low cylinder up on the compresson stroke & run air in there with the rad cap off (you may need someone to hold the crank pulley with a breaker bar to keep the engine from turning over), if you get bubbles or the level rises, then you are probably looking at a bad head gasket....

As far as the risks go, you really can't calculate it...... If the alledged leak stay the same as it is right now, not getting any worse, then there wouldn't be too much of a problem. (not likely if there is a leak) If the leak got big quickly & overheated the engine severly, you could risk ruining the whole motor............

Hope this helps some........

Response From kenscar

Thanks for the response.
It does not appear to be using any coolant but then again I really have not driven it much since their mechanic inspected it.
They did not report a ppm on the hydrocarbons. He said it was a "lithmus" test; the tab turns cooler in the presence of hydrocarbons. From what I gather this test can also be done with SMOG test equipment?
Since I do not have an air compressore or the proper fittings, I probably need to have another shop diagnose it.

Thanks again

Response From Sidom

That is one of 2 tests I place no value in..... The other is a block test..... A tube with blue liquid that will turn yellow when air from the cooling system is passed into it with exhaust gases in it....... The only time I've see those tests being accurate was when it was such an obvious blown head gasket you didn't need those test to confirm it. In cases like yours (early on) I've seen those tests pass cars & just the opposite, when there was no gasket problem get a false positive.

Exhaust gas analyzer, pressure transducer or leakdown test are the only sure ways I go by to detect a leaking head gasket in the early stages...........

Response From kenscar

Hmmm.Thanks, Sidom. I will start with the exhaust gas analyzer. Is there a particular ppm reading above which I should be concerned or is anything above 0 ppm bad?

Response From Sidom

HCs are raw/unburned fuel so the reading should be zero..............

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

A compression test isn't what you need here. Have an independent shop check it out for you. They can pressure test the cooling system or they can use an exhaust analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons in the radiator.