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Genuine
2006 Saturn Relay Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-361DB18    New

Qty:
$217.20
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Ball Joints & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2006 - Saturn Relay
Dorman
2006 Saturn Relay Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-41A0696    New

Qty:
$153.72
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2006 - Saturn Relay
Genuine
2006 Saturn Relay Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-138BFA9    New

Qty:
$219.79
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Saturn Relay
Dorman
2006 Saturn Relay Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-07AEA6C    New

Qty:
$153.87
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2006 - Saturn Relay
Dorman
2007 Saturn Outlook Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-037B527    New

Qty:
$127.96
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Outlook
Dorman
1991 Saturn SC Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-2DB0BA5    New

Qty:
$37.48
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Left
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1991 - Saturn SC
TRW
1991 Saturn SC Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-06433D0    New

Qty:
$80.97
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Left
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1991 - Saturn SC
Dorman
1992 Saturn SC Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-2DB0BA5    New

Qty:
$37.48
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Saturn SC
Dorman
1991 Saturn SC Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-55A9EF5    New

Qty:
$37.50
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Right
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Saturn SC
TRW
1991 Saturn SC Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-3322388    New

Qty:
$81.19
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Right
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Saturn SC
Dorman
1992 Saturn SC Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-55A9EF5    New

Qty:
$37.50
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Saturn SC
TRW
2007 Saturn Aura Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-2F252C9    New

Qty:
$158.98
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushing
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Aura
Dorman
2007 Saturn Aura Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-59E90F0    New

Qty:
$114.46
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Aura
TRW
2007 Saturn Aura Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-2F252C9    New

Qty:
$158.98
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Aura
Dorman
2007 Saturn Aura Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-5823C6A    New

Qty:
$115.15
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Aura
TRW
2007 Saturn Aura Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-4B5BB4D    New

Qty:
$167.27
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Saturn Aura
TRW
2008 Saturn Astra Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-0E436B1    New

Qty:
$144.28
TRW Suspension Control Arm
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Astra
TRW
2008 Saturn Astra Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-0A5833E    New

Qty:
$141.52
TRW Suspension Control Arm
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Astra
Dorman
2008 Saturn Vue Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-2CC9063    New

Qty:
$246.74
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Sport Suspension (RPO FE3)
  • with Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Vue
Dorman
2008 Saturn Vue Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3592EC7    New

Qty:
$246.83
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Sport Suspension (RPO FE3)
  • with Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Vue

Latest Saturn Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Wierd Saturn Aura cyclical noise.

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From walkinman on Wierd Saturn Aura cyclical noise.

Hi. I'm new to the site, and have a brain teaser for someone out there. It's been driving me nuts; I've tried a few things and the problem persists.
The car is an 09 Saturn Aura with the 2.4 and an automatic. Lately I've been hearing a noise that I have not been able to track down. It sounds almost like overly aggressive tires or a loose flap on a tire. It might also kind of sound like a bad wheel bearing. It is definitely cyclical and increases in both volumn and frequency as the cars speed goes up. I can hear it going as slow as 30 mph, but can't hear it when the front end is jacked up and the tranny put in gear. I know I had a couple of warped rotors up front and thought the sound might have been a high spot on the rotor fouling the brake pad. New pads, (they weren't that bad), and new rotors and the sound persists. I had some play in the drivers side wheel and changed the lower control arm because of a bad ball joint. There is now no play in either front wheel when I try to shake them either vertically or horizontally. I have noticed however that after I put the new pads and rotors on , if I move the car slowly a few inches and step on the brake, I hear a kind of clunk noise; this is true if I move the vehicle forward or reverse. I thought maybe I might have a bad CV joint, but I don't hear any sort of clicking nor thumping noise on turns or curves. Additionally, the shafts seem nice and tight and there isn't any grease leaking out of them. I've never had a problem I couldn't figure out, but this one is baffling me. I'm hoping someone out there can help me out on this one; it's making me crazy, and I need to depend on the car to get to work each day, (85 miles each way on the interstate).

Response From Discretesignals

Really hard to diagnose noises over the internet. Maybe have a local reputable repair shop have a look. Sometimes four ears are better than two.

Response From walkinman

yeah, I know. The problem is that i don't have the money to have someone look at it. My wife has breast cancer and is in stage 4. there IS no money left. If you have ANY ideas, I'll check them out. Do you think it could be a bad output carrier?

Response From Discretesignals

Does the noise change or go away if you put the transmission into neutral? If you shut the engine off, does the noise stay? (be careful doing this of course).

Does the noise change or go away on different road surfaces? Does the noise change or go away as your making long turns at those speeds?

Sorry to read about your wife

Response From walkinman

the noise is only present if the vehicle is in gear and moving.. the faster I go the faster the noise is. If I go fast enough, the noise becomes almost a hum . thats the reason I initially thought it might be aggressive tires or bad tires. the new clunk sound I hear is almost reminiscent of a bad motor mount , but isn't. the noise is definitely rotational. that being said, and since there are only so many parts that actually rotate as the car is moving, I can eliminate the rotors , brake pads, ( I did use all new hardware), tires, (new,(3 weeks), wheel bearings, ( no play whatsoever). that just leaves the cv joints and the output carriers. I don't hear any change in the noise in either long slow curves nor sharp turns, neither is there any sort of clicking noise, so, I'm inclined to rule out the cv jionts. I have no idea what a bad output carrier might sound like, and so, I'm still out there scratching my head and grasping at straws.

Response From walkinman Top Rated Answer

ok. Here's where I am now, and maybe I got it figured out. The noise first becomes noticeable at 10 mph. At 40 mph I took my foot off the gas, shifted into neutral and freewheeled; the noise remained unchanged. Next I drove to a local empty parking lot, stopped, shifted into reverse, and accelerated. The noise was still present. Since there was no change in the noise while freewheeling or under load, nor in reverse, I kinda think it isn't the cv joints, nor anything else related to the trans.
Now since most of my driving is getting to and from work every day, and is between 70 and 85 mph, and since I just replaced the front rotors because they were badly warped, maybe I'm looking at the wrong end of the car. I tend to overlook the rear brakes since most of the braking comes out of the front end, but if the front rotors were badly warped, maybe the rear ones are as well. If the rear rotors have a "high spot" that fouls the brake pads on every revolution, that would account for the cyclical nature of the noise. It would also account for the increase in tempo as the vehicle's speed increases. It would account for the non-metallic character of the noise. It might just be that my perception that the noise is coming from the front end, is just an illusion. If I'm right, it should be easy enough to check; just jack up the rear end, pull the tires and spin the rotors; I should both see the rotor "wobble", and hear it fouling the pads.
By the way, that other noise, the "clunk" I mentioned earlier I figured out. It was nothing more than the new brake pads seating thoroughly. When I did the stuff in reverse in the parking lot I stepped down on the brakes pretty hard; haven't heard THAT noise since.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't ever recall hearing a cv axle make a humming noise. I really don't think checking for play in a wheel bearing is the only method for determining if a wheel bearing is bad. I've seen many wheel and hub bearings make noise and not have play.

Wheel bearing noise changes with the weight that is put on them, so if your driving at the speed of the noise and swerve the vehicle back and forth does the noise change? When you swerve you moving the weight of the vehicle to different wheels. Sometimes you can remove the wheels and the calipers and then rotate the hub flange and hear or feel the grinding of the bearing.

Response From Hammer Time

Someone trained needs to listen to that noise. Many shops will give it a listen for free and then you can decide what to do about it. The new clicking after replacing the pads may be the pads moving in their holder, usually from not replacing the clips and hardware.

2006 Uplander w/heavy clunk in rear passenger

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From DennyD on 2006 Uplander w/heavy clunk in rear passenger

2006 Chevy Uplander, 2.5l engine, 160k KMs

I have a heavy metal-on-metal clunk (sounds like a dead shock) in my rear of my 06 Chevy Uplander. Even the smallest of bumps cause the clunk. I put on new shocks and a new trackbar (both of which I was told was the problem). There are no struts on this model, just springs and shocks. There's nothing broken on the springs.

The only other thing I could think of are the control arm bushings but there's no play in them at all. I removed the spare tire and my storage area is empty. Also checked for play in the side and rear doors - all good. Any idea what is causing the sound, and more importantly, how to stop it?

Response From ebbbs

i had loud clunking noise left rear 06 uplander changed shocks didnt help changed control arm(trailing arm) bushings whalaa no more clunk!! bushing looked fine pre removal. old bushing was like butter in a vise compared to new one. used a 3/8 extension thru busing bolt hole could move old one around so easy new one barely moved 1/8 of an inch!!

Response From Hammer Time

Please read the FORUM RULES before posting. This question is nearly a year old.

Response From Hammer Time

This isn't the kind of problem that you are going to find on a forum. You are going to find it on a drive on ramp lift with someone listening while someone else works the car up and down.

Response From DennyD

Thanks for the reply. Sadly we've done that and we can't hear squat. Just thought that maybe someone here might have had the same issue or is a known problem.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Agreed,shouldn't be too hard to pinpoint, especially if you have Chassis Ears as HT mentioned.

Check into these TSB's, may apply to your concern

Subject: Noise Or Clunk In The Rear Suspension - keywords bushing clunk noise rattle rear suspension thump #PIT3323C - (01/23/2007)

Models: 2005-2007 Buick Terraza 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander 2005-2007 Pontiac SV6 2005-2007 Saturn Relay



This PI was superseded to update Model Years. Please discard PIT3323B.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern:
Customers may report loud clunk or noise while driving in the rear suspension of their crossover sport Van equipped with FE1, FE2 or FE3 rear suspension. The noise maybe described as the muffler hitting the floor pan or a loud slapping noise. Recommendation/Instructions:
Inspect and replace the rear trailing arm bushing P/N 10341351 as needed.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.




__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Subject: Stiff Rear Upper Suspension Or Shocks Clunk Over Bumps - keywords bushing cargo GMT201 noise rear #PIT3861A - (08/04/2006)

Models: 2005-2007 Buick Terraza 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander 2005-2007 Pontiac SV6 2005-2007 Saturn Relay Cargo or Incomplete Mobility Vehicles Only



This PI was created to add 07 MY. Please discard PIT3861.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern:
If the customer/fleet operator finds the suspension too hard (shocks clunk because of full extension over bumps), ask how the van will be used. If it will be loaded with several hundred pounds, the suspension will be alright. If it will be used predominately with light loads and the customer is objecting to the ride characteristics see recommendations below. Recommendation/Instructions:
Replace the rear springs with 22132418 which will reduce the spring preload by 600 pounds

  1. Make sure the customer is objecting to the ride characteristics, not the dealer sales department.
  2. Record trim heights with the original and the replacement springs and forward the information to tom.geist@gm.com.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Response From DennyD

Just as the 2nd TSB said to do, I loaded the back of the van (with my wife and 4 kids - 600lbs easy) and the problem was still there, loud as ever so it's not the 2nd TSB. They say the 1st one should be ignored now but it's the last thing I've not checked.

Imagine driving on a dirt road with no shocks. That's the sound I get. I think I bought a lemon...

Response From Hammer Time

These are the kind of things that we deal with every day and it's not rocket science to find the noise if it is load and consistent enough. Any decent tech should be able to pinpoint the noise.

Response From Hammer Time

It really shouldn't be that difficult to pinpoint if the noise is consistent. A set of chassis ears would be a lot of help.