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Genuine
1990 Plymouth Laser Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-5AEDEE8    New

Qty:
$171.55
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1990 - Plymouth Laser
Genuine
1992 Plymouth Colt Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-44C0C96    New

Qty:
$157.28
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Plymouth Colt
Dorman
1992 Plymouth Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3F0A224    New

Qty:
$88.75
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with B-Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1992 - Plymouth Colt
Genuine
1992 Plymouth Colt Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-2EA986E    New

Qty:
$157.28
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Plymouth Colt
Dorman
1993 Plymouth Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-1F45D7A    New

Qty:
$52.80
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • with B-Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Plymouth Colt
Dorman
1993 Plymouth Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-222C3BA    New

Qty:
$22.40
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Lateral Link
  • with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Plymouth Colt
Dorman
1993 Plymouth Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-0ACE46D    New

Qty:
$22.35
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Lateral Link
  • with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Plymouth Colt
TRW
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-471E682    New

Qty:
$134.14
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Right Lower
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
Dorman
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3C399C5    New

Qty:
$98.48
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
TRW
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-1C480A8    New

Qty:
$133.36
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Left Lower
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
Dorman
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-5CD296E    New

Qty:
$100.04
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
Mopar
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm Mopar

P311-42E723E    New

Qty:
$230.60
Mopar Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Rear Right Upper
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$109.71
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Grand Voyager
TRW
1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-4BF43D2    New

Qty:
$134.46
TRW Suspension Control Arm
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Grand Voyager
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$109.71
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Grand Voyager
TRW
1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-4020F70    New

Qty:
$134.72
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Grand Voyager
Dorman
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-2F39139    New

Qty:
$44.96
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Upper
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$37.30
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
TRW
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-1D52D48    New

Qty:
$68.39
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
TRW
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-575DA37    New

Qty:
$69.42
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front Left Upper
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze

Latest Plymouth Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 Plymouth Chirping/tweeting sound while driving

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From imhotep06 on 98 Plymouth Chirping/tweeting sound while driving

My car is a 1998 Plymouth Breeze and it is making a chirping or tweeting sound while in motion. The noise stops when it is not in motion, so I do not think it has anything to do with belts or the engine. I've had my pads, control arms and brake rotors replaced within the past month. The mechanics have placed some kind of lubricant somewhere in the area and still no luck. It sounds like it is coming from the front right wheel. Can anyone help me out with this problem. I've checked online and I cannot find anything.

I recorded the sound and uploaded it to Youtube. Here is the link:

I appreciate any help that you can offer. Peace and blessings to you all.

Response From GC

Did this happen after the repairs or was it doing it prior to them? Does the sound go away when you brake, or just when you slow down? From the video, the sound is pretty crisp and clear, are you sure its not coming from a window or the windshield or loose trim piece whistling? It should be very easy for a mechanic to find this noise if it is coming from one of the wheels. You could try safely jacking up and supporting the front of the vehicle, then rotating the front wheels by hand and see if you can get one to make noise.

Response From imhotep06

This happened before I got these other items replaced and has continued after I replaced these items. They first thought it could be the pads, then the roters and the cv joints, which is why all of these were replaced. Still this noise continued.

The noise stops when the car stops as you can see in the video. When I accelerated, then the noise began again, so it has to do with the wheel on some level. It is not a window or anything like that. This is confirmed by the fact that when you accelerate faster the intensity of the noise increases: i.e., the faster the car, the faster the chirping.

Response From autonormative

This is most likely a problem with the ball joint which is a common problem with the plymouth breeze. Many people have reported the same squeaking due to problems with their ball joint.

Response From imhotep06 Top Rated Answer

Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

Response From autonormative

Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

There are actually two ball joints.

Here is a diagram to help.

Response From imhotep06

Greetings. Thank you, again, for your answer. I just want to make sure that I didn't purchase one that was already attached to the lower control arm. So just because I replaced the lower control arm, doesn't mean I replaced the ball joints, correct?


Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

There are actually two ball joints.

Here is a diagram to help.

Response From Discretesignals

I've never heard a ball joint make that kind of noise. If it was a ball joint you should be able to get it to squeak while bouncing the front of the vehicle.

I've actually heard something similar on a vehicle way back when and it ended up being a hood hinge.

Has your mechanic run the vehicle on his/her lift to see if the noise happens?

Response From imhotep06

I am not sure. When I took it in, I wasn't in the area where they did all of the testing.

However, I just went outside and I pushed my car up and down in the front to see if it would make that squeak noise, and it did not.

Also, I have noticed that when I start to drive the car, it doesn't make the chirping noise until I get maybe 10 blocks or so. In other words, when I first start off driving, it sounds fine. But a little into the drive then the chirpping noise comes back.


I've never heard a ball joint make that kind of noise. If it was a ball joint you should be able to get it to squeak while bouncing the front of the vehicle.

I've actually heard something similar on a vehicle way back when and it ended up being a hood hinge.

Has your mechanic run the vehicle on his/her lift to see if the noise happens?

Response From Hammer Time

The lower joint is the only one that is load bearing so it's highly unlikely for the upper to make noise.

Can't hear you over the grinding

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From teddybear9300 on Can't hear you over the grinding

I have a 1996 Plymouth Breeze, 2.0, with 225000 mi. I have had this car for almost nine years and done most of the repair work myself. I have heard a lot of different noises come from this car, but this one is new and I am at a loss. I am getting a really bad grinding noise when I turn left. This is no squeak, pop, or thunk. (delt with them before) In the past week the passenger side has had the half shaft (cv joints) lower control arm (w\ball joint) and hub assembly replaced. The brakes look good and so do the rotors. I have checked and rechecked that everything is back where it should be and the right torque specs are being used. Help please.

Response From cpaine0106 Top Rated Answer

Many wheel bearings require torquing to a preload specification which is usually higher than the regular torque spec. The axle nut is torqued to preload, backed off, then retorqued to the regular spec. If this step is required, but skipped, accelerated bearing wear will result. Also, it's unlikely, but check for any signs of the tires rubbing against the inner wheel well when turning left

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bearings new or not can fail making noise frequently aggravated on turns at first. They don't necessarily show free play at the first noises either. Also know that noises like that can defy your senses and be from the opposite side so check both sides,

T

1993 Plymouth Laser Turbo manual transmission - tires turning the same way.

Showing 2 out of 28 Posts | Show 26 Hidden Posts
Question From Nunya on 1993 Plymouth Laser Turbo manual transmission - tires turning the same way.

Year: 1993
Model: Plymouth Laser Turbo
Engine: 2.0
Mileage: 168,000

When I turn, the differential isn't allowing the tires to turn correctly. Is there a common reason or cause for this, or does anyone have experience with this specific model? Do I just need a new tranny?

Response From Nunya

i am not sure, the only thing i know about transmissions are how to replace them, but because these trans are hard to come by, if it were chattering clutches, is this repairable,

Response From Hammer Time

You're going to have to describe the issue in a little more detail than that.

Response From Nunya Top Rated Answer

sorry about that, its kinda hard to explain, so bare with me. i bought this car as a project car there for any conditions were unknown, long story short i replaced the engine and trans out of a junkyard, the car i got the motor and trans out of was wrecked in the side and rear the front was still in tact. i got the motor and trans installed and from the beginning i knew there was a problem with the steering, i replaced the axles first didnt help i then replaced the lower control arms ball joint and sway bar links still no difference i am able to drive the car but it pulls hard to the left and the tires chirp and jump around, kinda like a posse rear end would do in a sharp turn. so i took it to an alignment shop and they were able to align the steering for me, however, when i left the shop it was still doing the same, so they pulled it back in and lifted it up by the frame and checked the rack and pinion and it checked out to be be in good shape, they continued to trouble shoot for me, and the best they could come up with was the the differential was not allowing one side to slip while the other side was being turned, basically while turning one side the other side cannot be held back and both tires will turn in the same direction,

Response From Hammer Time

Are you sure it's not a limited slip differential because it sounds like chattering clutches.

Response From Hammer Time

That would be easy. Just chage the gear oil and add a bottle of friction modifier that you can buy at any auto parts store.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, it could take a few miles. As said earlier, make the your tires match and your brakes aren't dragging.

Response From Nunya

Ok I changed the gear oil and added the friction modifier, it seems to be better but not completely was wondering if there is a certain amount of miles before the friction modifier does its thing or is it instantly all its gonna do

Response From Nunya

i took a 94 eclipse 2.0 turbo and i replaced the turbo exhaust with a non turbo exhaust, i also replaced the intake and throttle body from turbo to non turbo, i replaced the idle air control motor (new) it idle rough when cold, and gets better when warm, however, it idle at about 1100rpms and not real smooth. the check engine light does not come on.what can i do do to get the idle down and lean it out, the smell is very rich.

Response From Hammer Time

Most of us are not much on mods here. Who knows what conflicts you could have now with the computer.

Response From Nunya

yea that whole computer thing is a myth i have the one out of the turbo car and i have the one out of the non turbo car and they both work the same with completely different numbers, like i said it runs like a raped ape just dont idle like it should

Response From Nunya

ok thank you and will let you know how it goes.

Response From Discretesignals

Is this AWD?

Response From Nunya

that would be easy not my luck, but i will try it, thanks! one last thing i was unaware that Manuel trans had clutches other than the actual clutch disc, is it possible that something is broken inside and the car would still drive

Response From Nunya

it is not an awd

Response From Discretesignals

i am able to drive the car but it pulls hard to the left and the tires chirp and jump around, kinda like a posse rear end would do in a sharp turn.

If it has or had limited slip, it shouldn't chatter when your going straight. The reason is that both axles are turning the same speed, so the side and pinion gears in the carrier are not turning. The only thing that could cause it to chatter and burn up a set of limited slip clutches is if one front wheel has a different diameter than the other front wheel.

Pulling to the left is strange. You get the vehicle in the air and rotate the wheels by hand? How about the motor mounts? Maybe the engine and transaxle aren't sitting right and throwing off the CV angles?

Response From Nunya

the tires only chirp when im turning when driving straight it rolls fine other than the pulling there is no noise at all from the trans only from the tires

Response From Discretesignals

Does it pull only when your accelerating?

Response From Nunya

no it pulls as soon as i let go of the steering wheel

Response From Discretesignals

I honestly never heard of a transaxle causing a steering pull. Torque steer usually only happens while accelerating or on deceleration. Usually what causes pulling is brake calipers hanging, alignment problem, or radial pull from tires.

Response From Nunya

is the the differential oil in a separate case than the trans oil

Response From Hammer Time

Probably not, since it's a manual transmission.

Response From Discretesignals

It's really hard for us to give you an accurate prognosis. All we can do is ask you questions in hopes that you'll find something wrong. Someone is going to have to really inspect everything under there to see what the heck is going on.

Response From Hammer Time

Or maybe a limited slip with different size tires as suggested earlier.

Response From Nunya

is the differential repairable/replaceable without rebuilding the trans

Response From Hammer Time

i was unaware that Manuel trans had clutches other than the actual clutch disc

We're talking about the differential, not the transmission.

Response From Nunya

were is the differential located

Response From Discretesignals

in the transaxle

Steering Wheel Shakes at Higher Speeds

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Jwiz88 on Steering Wheel Shakes at Higher Speeds

My 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager has a developing problem in the Wheel/Axle/Tire area. When I accelerate over 20mph the steering wheel starts to jerk violently (to the left), causing the entire vehicle to shake. It seems like the shaking originates from the left front tire region. Anyways, the faster I go, the more it shakes till I hit about 40mph and it feels like it's gonna break. This problem is getting worse and sometimes I'll hit a bump or turn and the shaking will mellow out, but eventually it will get back into shaking mode. I've done a lot of research and I'm thinking it might be the ball joint? I just want to find out what I gotta do to fix this. Please any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Response From valpoautodummy Top Rated Answer

having driven many 12 year old cars, i can tell you that you need to replace your cv joint. while you're under there, replace the ball joints, control arms and tie rods too. and u joint if rear wheel drive. all of those things really take a beating and are cheap and easy to replace. then get a wheel allignment and a set of good tires. smooooooth!

Response From TheChevynator

You may have a wheel that's not balanced or bent.To check that just switch the front right wheel with the left.drive the car and see if the problem switches sides.If not the problem may lie in the suspension.To check if it's the ball joint when you have each front wheel jacked off the ground grab the outer top and bottom of the wheel and try to wiggle it to and fro pulling the top toward you while pushing the bottom away and visversa.Do it rapidly.If it wiggles and you hear a metallic knocking sound then the ball joint is bad.If it's tight then it maybe the axle is the problem.look at the axle boot.If it's ripped then you probably need an axle.

Response From Hammer Time

When I accelerate over 20mph the steering wheel starts to jerk violently (to the left),

That's a typical inner C/V joint. Caravans are notorious for it. The joint binds under acceleration.

Response From Hammer Time

That is a bad inner C/V joint. The real question is, which side. It's probably on the left but no guarantee on that. You just need to replace the whole C/V axle with another one.