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Dorman
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-01885D0    W0133-2051870  New

Qty:
$98.50
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2003 - Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally
First Equipment Quality
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Suspension Control Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-06506FE    W0133-1898993  New

Qty:
$34.56
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Manuf. Body Code
2006 - Mitsubishi Lancer CS7A
Dorman
2009 Mitsubishi Galant Suspension Control Arm Dorman - w/Ball Joint & Bushings

P311-2DF2DFA    W0133-1770701  New

Qty:
$133.14
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: -07/31/2009
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2009 - Mitsubishi Galant Sport Edition To:07-31-09
Dorman
2008 Mitsubishi Galant Suspension Control Arm Dorman - w/Ball Joint & Bushings

P311-2DF2DFA    W0133-1770701  New

Qty:
$133.14
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Mitsubishi Galant DE
TRW
2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-5A4BF57    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$122.95
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Front Left Lower
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Mitsubishi Eclipse
TRW
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-5A4BF57    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$122.95
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2002 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT
TRW
2001 Mitsubishi Galant Suspension Control Arm 4 Cyl 2.4L TRW

P311-5A4BF57    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$122.95
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Production: 01/30/2001-
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2001 - Mitsubishi Galant ES L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351 Fr:01-30-01
TRW
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-5A4BF57    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$122.95
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Production: 06/2000-
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2001 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT Fr:06-00-00
TRW
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-5A4BF57    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$122.95
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Production: 01/2001-
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2002 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS Fr:01-00-01
TRW
2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bush

P311-1246ABF    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$122.27
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • w/Ball Joint & Bush
  • Front Right Lower
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Mitsubishi Eclipse
TRW
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bush

P311-1246ABF    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$122.27
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • w/Ball Joint & Bush
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2002 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT
TRW
2001 Mitsubishi Galant Suspension Control Arm 4 Cyl 2.4L TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bush

P311-1246ABF    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$122.27
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Production: 01/30/2001-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bush
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2001 - Mitsubishi Galant ES L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351 Fr:01-30-01
TRW
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bush

P311-1246ABF    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$122.27
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Production: 06/2000-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bush
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2001 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT Fr:06-00-00
TRW
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bush

P311-1246ABF    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$122.27
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Production: 01/2001-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bush
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2002 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS Fr:01-00-01
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$155.53
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mitsubishi Outlander
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$155.53
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: -05/31/2005
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mitsubishi Outlander To:05-31-05
Vaico
2015 Mitsubishi Lancer Suspension Control Arm Vaico

P311-55111C8    W0133-2051872  New

Qty:
$175.77
Vaico Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
Brand: Vaico
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2015 - Mitsubishi Lancer SE Limited Edition Sportback
Vaico
2015 Mitsubishi Lancer Suspension Control Arm Vaico

P311-2D8E12F    W0133-2036336  New

Qty:
$180.65
Vaico Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
Brand: Vaico
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2015 - Mitsubishi Lancer SE Limited Edition Sportback
Dorman
2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-01885D0    W0133-2051870  New

Qty:
$98.50
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mitsubishi Lancer
Dorman
2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-553E638    W0133-2051871  New

Qty:
$99.44
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mitsubishi Lancer

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mitsu Outlander rear control arms

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dmac0923 on Mitsu Outlander rear control arms

2003 mitsubishi outlander awd. 86,000 miles

my buddy gave me his 03 outlander because his rear lower control arms are creaking (a common problem with this car) and the bushings in the upper control arms are worn causing excessive tire wear.

Regardless they are pretty easy to change out except for one.

the drivers side upper control arm inner mounting bolt is almost dam near impossible to access. does anyone have any experience on how to get at that bolt?

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

Update

I was finally able to remove the drivers side rear upper control arm. It took a magic combination of extensions, universals and busted knuckles to get it out. A real PIA. If this guy has the car long enough and the car needs it changed again if he's really my friend he use someone else lmao

stuck control arm bolt

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From autonurse on stuck control arm bolt

I have a 2003 mitsubishi outlander and the front control arm needs to be replaced. the upper bolt that goes thru the arm and into the sub frame is stuck fast tried my heavy duty impact gun and blow torch heat. the other one was done by the dealership before I bought it and it looks like it gave them grief because the bolt is not the same as on the original. any suggesions? dont want to break something off thats out of my league to repair safely

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

If heat and an impact aren't getting it to move for you, I would quit while you are ahead and take it in. Trust me, I wish I could do that, but I'm the guy everyone takes it to. If you keep going and break the bolt, you'll be hauling it to a shop on a tow truck. No fun and not cheap.

Response From autonurse

thanks my thoughts exactly. its not like its a bolt that goes through with a nut on other side that could easily be cut off and replaced.

2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE - Suspension overhaul

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From vkdc on 2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE - Suspension overhaul

Hi everyone,

Let me start by saying I know very little about cars, and thank everyone in advance for any advice you can provide on this issue.

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE, 2.4L, with 78,000 miles. I recently noticed a clanking noise coming from under the car, and felt the car wobbling a bit as we drove, and so I took it into my local mechanic to be checked out.

After inspecting the car he informed me that the following items need repair:
-Ball joint - both front lower ball joint loose
-Control arm – both front lower control arm loose
-Both outer tie rod end loose
-Front wheel alignment
-Both front sway bar end link loose
-Both front sway bar brushing loose
-Front strut weak
-Rear strut weak
-Front engine mount loose
-Rear engine mount loose
-He also recommended I replace the tires which have been damaged by the faulty suspension.

The quote for all of this (excluding tires which I would have replaced elsewhere) comes to $2,485, the bulk of which is for repairing/replacing the ball joint, control arm, and front/rear struts. Frankly, this is more than I want to spend to repair a 13 year old car, so I asked him if there was anything here I could get away without repairing for now – ie what would be the minimum amount of work I can do to keep the car safely running? He indicated that I'd need to have it all repaired, but his english is pretty bad so I'm not sure he fully understood the question.

So, I have a few questions 1) does this quote seem reasonable/worth it? 2) is there anything here I can potentially get away with leaving unaddressed for awhile? I'm guessing that these things are all related and so repairing only a few of them may not be practical. It would be a shame to give up on a car with only 78,000 miles but it's equally scary to invest $2500 into car that even in good shape blue books for maybe $2000.

Thanks again for any thoughts.

-vkdc

Response From Tom Greenleaf

78k and all that stuff! Was this used in an Evil Kenevil canyon jump or something?

Second opinion time IMO. Most of the descriptions should be either broken or worn not "loose."

That and you still need tires?

Seriously, if you have vehicle inspections where you are who the heck has missed all that as I can't believe it all went at once? Maybe it is all bad and if so, nice looking low mile car even old I'd trade out of that one for that cost but have another opinion in writing as that's a lot all at once,

T

Response From vkdc

Haha, no I haven't been jumping canyons (yet), but my city is pot hole central, so maybe that has had an effect.

It did seem odd that so much went wrong at the same time, so I'll bring it into another shop to have them take a look.

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ya - I was a little off the wall with that comment. Perhaps it was a record school bus jump instead - Ha.

Just hard to belie all that all at once and I hear you with pot hole central. Holy crap around where I am, I think there are lost cars in some of the pot holes! That will wreck stuff too if you hit them or can't avoid them.

Some on that list like front + rear motor mounts you should have been complaining about and they would normally be described as "loose" but rather BROKEN.

At that cost you just need another look by another uninvolved place totally. If all that was that bad you really should be driving it - your call as I'm not so sure on all that. A noise could be a ton of assorted things??

If it really does need quite a bit like that and you really like the car in general and condition otherwise take the book values with a grain of salt at those ages as it's hard to find used cars if so that don't need something either or a lot OR go new, or top shelf used with awesome warranty.

Good luck,

T

Response From vkdc

Sounds good. Thanks again. I have an appointment with another mechanic tomorrow to get a second opinion.

If it really needs $2500 in repairs, we're leaning towards using that money as a down payment on a new car. Something cheap and reliable like a Honda Fit. Since the Mitsu is a 13 year old car, I'd rather not invest $2500 in the suspension only to worry that the transmission may fail next month :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Personally not worried about it's age a bit. Just that quite a list of parts you were told and I suppose real lousy roads could speed up the issues fast. For the items you listed , some are not that expensive some get up there it's the total vs making a change before you do it all if you are ready now. It won't be worth that $2,500 more . Duh

we need cars. Book values are mere guesses after a few years IMO. Things can go wrong by surprise in anything new or not just the odds are better with newer.

I really think it's money well spent to decide on fixing and bailing out.

Don't let on the prior estimate, rather just ask for a complete check of steering and suspension items and check those motor mounts that could go without notice and see what happens.

Good luck,

T

Response From vkdc

The second opinion is in. The second mechanic says...

The reason the car is swaying and wobbling is because the tires are worn and one is warped. They need to be replaced.

The noises are because the right axel and strut mount need to be replaced.

The Stabalizer bar bushing needs to be replaced. The noise we hear is because the engine is tilting.

Without tires he estimates $678. That's a lot less than $2500!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Well............... That second opinion was worth it! If that's credible to you now I'd go for it. Swapping to another car if this one is otherwise OK is expensive by itself with whatever papers and taxes are involved - tons here, MA.

Tires are a cost of driving. A wheel if needed can either be fixed or probably a good used one - ask. Don't put a good new tire on a bad wheel.

Things are looking up,

T

Response From vkdc Top Rated Answer

Thanks again. Good advice. Feeling much better about repairing the car, and getting a few more years out of it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd fix it unless you are hell bent on something new. Now you can go back to CANYON jumping

Let us know how it all works out. Mods let thread be till this is all good again please,

T

rusted chassis bolts

Showing 7 out of 10 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From autonurse on rusted chassis bolts

Mitsubishi 2003 outlander 2.4 SOHC 135,000 miles, repairing the "dog bone" rear control arm links this is where the camber is adjusted. cannot get bolts out they are rusted into the bushings dont want to strip bolts. I have a heavy duty impact gun 1000ft ibs of torque. at what point do you give up and cut them out and what is best way? especially to save the bolts if possible? Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

That bolt has a rubber bushing in it so if you plan on using a torch, and you may have to, plan on replacing that bar.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If that rusted I would toss it all. Another way but look carefully at what you are doing is to tighten a bolt till it breaks off clean - not for a blind hole threaded for the bolt but a thru bolt and knock it thru with a punch.

Idea for if this side is in trouble now to either do the other or get some PB on it now and plan on that too. Rust is either just sticky things like that or so bad it can get like a cracker that you can mush up in your hand - not safe and vehicles get scrapped over it if extensive enough,

T

Response From Discretesignals

If I ever moved up north, this thing would definitely be in my tool box.

Response From MarineGrunt


If I ever moved up north, this thing would definitely be in my tool box.






What the heck is that thing? It looks like some sort of an electric heating element? I've been very fortunate over the years with rusted bolts. There hasn't been one that I was able to get and that's without an oxy/acetylene torch. I have used mapp gas a few times. The only impact I have is a 1/2 drive Craftsman so it's not very powerful. I would guess maybe 300-400 ft lbs. There have been times I used a 6 ft. cheater though. This isn't counting rusted out exhaust bolts though. I have had to cut those before but used a grinder with a cutoff or a sawzall. Most of the vehicles I've worked on haven't been older than probably 10 years old though. I did own a 1983 C-10 back in 2000 though but didn't have to do much work on it. I think the power steering pump was the only repair I did. Maybe one day I'll run into some more rusted bolts if I ever breakdown and buy a Chevelle or Nova. I've always wanted to restore one.

Response From Discretesignals

They found it at the Roswell crash site, so they reversed engineered it and now selling it to the public.


Response From Hammer Time

Here's the instruction manual


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Neat tool DS. The "North" isn't so bad just because of latitude it's road salts still commonly used. It's mostly plain calcium chloride but very high 'salinity' vs even ocean water at given times so it gets dumped on heavy.

Just recently a 2002 F150, looking clean until you looked underneath a front wheel pulled right out of the frame tilting right over and declared salvage as a vehicle!

This salt is and already has taken out bridges, re-bar inside cement of structural things that get exposed to it. Why it's still used escapes me as it's so destructive. There are several places North or not that don't allow its use at all and the much colder areas North of say the I-80/I-90 corridor in the US it is too cold for salts to work so rust is much less!

For vehicles the parts aren't just stuck they are unrecognizable sometimes. You just whack an area and get showered with crumbs/flakes of rust to expose the head of a nut or bolt if only that to find it isn't a size or hex anymore at all!

Some pics anyone can find out there of what it does and not rare........

That one you can just cut off and punch that bolt thru or it would come off if glowing hot but the rubber would be junk and bolt NFG of course.


Great - that one someone got a new bolt in but look at the frame! That weak section would be fixed if/when noticed.

Torque box areas and the strong spots for unibody are not exempt at all either......


Where do you place a jack stand on that?

I've beat this subject up many times and when someone mentions a battle always wonder how bad things really are, a pest or a lost cause?

Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glowing heat from Oxy/Acet torches but WARNING of flammable things, gas and brake parts, rubber, greases etc. if close and know that heat to glowing destroys the intended strength of parts if reused know which ones need to be tossed for proper new. IF IN DOUBT GET HELP. Dealing with rust isn't about force of the tools so much as getting them apart so you can work with what's left - all caution with this! Things can break from just the rust without you noticing how bad it got and this can and will cause loss of control of the vehicle if things let go so pay attention!

T

Response From autonurse Top Rated Answer

thank you!! from autonurse