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Best Selling Genuine Mazda Control Arms

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Lemfoerder, First Equipment Quality, Genuine, Dorman, TRW
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We stock Control Arm parts for most Mazda models, including 3, 3 Sport, 5, 6, 626, B2200, B2300, B2600, B3000, CX7, CX9, MPV, MX6, Miata, Millenia, Protege, Protege5, Tribute.

Lemfoerder
2004 Mazda 3 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder

P311-082CBF7    New

Qty:
$38.93
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • Curved Arm
  • with Bushings
  • Rear Upper
Brand: Lemfoerder
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mazda 3
Lemfoerder
2011 Mazda 3 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder

P311-082CBF7    New

Qty:
$38.93
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • Curved Arm
  • with Bushings
  • Rear Upper
Brand: Lemfoerder
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mazda 3
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$37.31
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mazda 3
Genuine
2004 Mazda 3 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-0D638DC    New

Qty:
$128.71
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mazda 3
Genuine
2004 Mazda 3 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-0D638DC    New

Qty:
$128.71
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mazda 3
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$37.31
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mazda 3
Genuine
2005 Mazda 3 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-0D638DC    New

Qty:
$128.71
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mazda 3
Dorman
2012 Mazda 3 Sport Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-4215C3D    New

Qty:
$147.96
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mazda 3 Sport
Dorman
2013 Mazda 3 Sport Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-4215C3D    New

Qty:
$147.96
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mazda 3 Sport
Dorman
2012 Mazda 3 Sport Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-16CBBA6    New

Qty:
$147.87
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mazda 3 Sport
Dorman
2012 Mazda 3 Sport Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-16CBBA6    New

Qty:
$147.96
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mazda 3 Sport
Dorman
2013 Mazda 3 Sport Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-16CBBA6    New

Qty:
$147.87
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mazda 3 Sport
Dorman
2013 Mazda 3 Sport Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-16CBBA6    New

Qty:
$147.96
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mazda 3 Sport
TRW
1995 Mazda Protege Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-3631A82    New

Qty:
$131.25
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 11/01/1994-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1996 Mazda Protege Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-3631A82    New

Qty:
$131.25
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • with Factory 13" Wheels
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1996 Mazda Protege Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-3631A82    New

Qty:
$131.25
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • with Factory 14" Wheels
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1995 Mazda Protege Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-23030B5    New

Qty:
$90.76
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 11/01/1994-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Left Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1996 Mazda Protege Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-23030B5    New

Qty:
$90.76
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • with Factory 13" Wheels
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Left Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$105.23
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Lower
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$105.23
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mazda Protege

Latest Mazda Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mazda Tribute Bearing

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From blazin407 on Mazda Tribute Bearing

hello i have a 2002 Mazda Tribute and as off Today am Replaceing The 3 Wheel Bearing in 2 years on The drivers Front i was just wondering if anybody knows something i don't about these bearing or something the is being done wrong? ... I sent all of them to a machine shop to be pressed in but they just keep going bad.. become very loud over time


Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

You probably have something bent in the suspension.

Response From blazin407 Top Rated Answer

I have checked all suspension parts including the control arm with the measuring tape seems to be ok

Response From Hammer Time

I'm afraid the measuring tape isn't going to cut it.

Response From blazin407

whats the best way to check?

Response From Hammer Time

Calibrated wheel alignment and collision measuring equipment.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All of the above true: Some of these are pressed in bearings and if cheapo ones wont last or if done wrong. Still have to tend to them for whatever reason,

T

sideshift

Showing 6 out of 8 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From arkansasdave on sideshift

Hello, everyone I am new to this forum and what helped me find it is my car is acting different. I do my own mechanic work I have been working on cars for about 30 years. This kind of has me unsure I think it may be the tires or the trans mount. It is a 2006 Mazda 3 2.0 automatic with 67,000 miles when it shifts it pulls hard to the right you have to keep a good grip on the wheel it is like torque steer when you hit some nitrous. It didn't do this before. I found it had a bad passenger engine mount and changed it out but that didn't fix it. My tires are wearing on the inside like the caster/camber is off I am going to have that re checked I had a 4 wheel laser alignment done at the dealer last year when I put on new tires. anyway if someone has any ideas I would appreciate it I am just trying to narrow it down it also pops when I hit rough spots which it wasn't doing before that sounds to me like the sway bar by the metallic sound it has I am going to check that today.

thanks,
AD

Response From Discretesignals

Get a pry bar and pry on the control arm to see if the bushings are loose.

Response From Discretesignals

Does it only pull on acceleration? Does it pull on braking? Inspect the lower control arm bushings.

Response From arkansasdave

It doesn't pull as bad on acceleration and not at all on braking that I have noticed. But I did see a small string of rubber hanging from the control arm bushing and I looked at it close but didn't see anything else wrong, it had the whole control arm replaced last fall with a new strut right before I bought it due to a tow truck driver putting his tie down on the control arm and tightening it too much. That bushing might be bad though. I did spray some silicone on it the other day when I noticed the piece of shaved rubber sticking out.

thanks,
AD

Response From arkansasdave

Ok, I'll check it out and let you know what I find.


thanks,
AD

Response From arkansasdave

That was it! I sure appreciate the advice I hadn't thought about the bushing because it looked like it was brand new last fall. That thing move the tire and control arm about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch. The other side didn't move at all. Thanks again Oh and that is the sound it was making because I remember where I heard that noise before on cars I had with worn out control arm bushings.

AD

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

"That thing move the tire and control arm about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch" Yikes! Back to get an alignment too and seriously check out all steering and suspension items. That tow must have be a real dousy!

T

Response From arkansasdave

Ordered me a RayB proffesional series complete control arm with bushings and ball joint. I figured that way everything would be new and hopefully make it align real good before I put on the new tires. Thanks for all the info.

AD

Gearshitfing backlit problem and vehicle vibration

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From fredhdx on Gearshitfing backlit problem and vehicle vibration

Hi everyone,

I am new to this forum and frankly new to car repair & maintenance. I recently encountered a rather weird problem after getting my car back from a repair shop and I want some experts' opinions before I go back talk with those guys.

I have a 2008 Mazda 6 iSport version, 4 cyl, 2.3L.

About two weeks ago I had a large service including: neutral safety switch change, rear brake hardware change, two front control arm change, two front CV assembly and transmission flush. On the day I got my car, I noticed that the backlit for the shit stick won't light up when the car started (P,R,N,D). The backlit for the manual position (+/-) however works fine. The backlit will come back after 20-40 min drive. I didn't think this is a big problem then and too bad the shop was closed when I drove out my car.

Another problem I just noticed yesterday (didn't drive often) is that the car will have larger than normal vibration when I brake during traffic lights. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel, or from the door as my left hand rests on it. The vibration eventually reduces also around 20-40 min drive.

I am worried because I am not sure if they didn't place something tight enough or messed some wires up. I have emailed the guy received me and he responded as follow:

"After talking to the technician who worked on your vehicle, we changed your neutral safety switch, rear brake hardware, two control arms, bumper repair and a transmission flush. Unfortunately, none of theses repair were near the gearshift of your vehicle. The neutral safety switch is located underneath the vehicle on the transmission, control arms are the front suspension of the vehicle, and obviously the rear brake hardware is on the rear brake components."

Obviously he is trying to clear off all responsibilities and maybe try to sell another in store inspection to me. But do you guys agree with what he says? I don't know much about car but since these issues happened right after the repair I do believe it has something to do with their work.

Thank you in advance for any kind of suggestion, advice or warnings! And I wish you all a good weekend.

Best,
Fred

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I don't see how the transmission selector illumination bulb issue would be their fault. Transmission range switch is on top of the transmission in the engine bay.

You would have to remove the top portion of the center console that is around the selector lever to gain access to the bulb that is installed underneath the selector display.

As for the vibration while braking, that could be related to what they did. Maybe you should take it in to have them take a look to be sure something isn't loose causing your vibration. If not, it could be a run out issue with the front rotors.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"The backlit will come back after 20-40 min drive."


That doesn't help right now as if it's working/ lighted then what do you or anyone check? Not a lot of help but it should be in an area of work that was done so can only suggests carefully finding just how it's lighted by bulb to a strip so remotely or right at it. I simply wouldn't know without taking a couple things off to see on this,


T

98 Mazda protege strut replacement error.

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From AndrewSE on 98 Mazda protege strut replacement error.

Hello,

New to the forums and could use some advise :)

I made a real bone head move when taking my front drivers side strut apart. I forgot to mark the position for the upper rubber spring seat.

Needless to say I messed out my mount it is all warped and I ordered a replacement.

What do I do now to make sure it's lined up correctly with the new replacement ?

Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

Why is it a problem? It rotates for steering.

Response From AndrewSE Top Rated Answer

Thank you for your reply !

The shop manual and other references mention you have to mark it to make sure it's aligned correctly, which is why they suggest you mark the spring plate with the mount plate.

I'm confused :) When I put it all back together the strut was making a horrible clicking and clinging sound on bumps. I ripped her all apart again and noticed the mount plate was all wrapped and tilted. I can't get the center screw off now on the strut.

Long story short, I was changing my lower ball joint and decided to remove the strut so I can get the new ball joint connected to the control arm and hub. I removed the center screw first (yeah I know ..stupid :) ) Got a spring suppressor and attached the spring to the strut again. So I've now ordered a new mount and strut to fix my stupid error..

Lesson learned... Now I just want to fix my poor Mazda :)

The marking the plates has me concerned.

Response From Hammer Time

The front tires turn to steer so the plate have to rotate for that reason. You have to line the spring up correctly with the seat though if it's recessed for the end of the spring.

masda mx6 makes banging sound while moving and turning

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Bind on masda mx6 makes banging sound while moving and turning

1990 Mazda MX6
4 cyl
Front Wheel Drive
Automatic
98,000 miles

What is causing a banging sound in the front left wheel area, but only occurrs while moving and is exacerbated the tighter you turn the wheel - if i make less tight turns in wide radiuses the sound doesnt happen as frequently.

additionally, after it makes the sound, the car will pull either right or left like its out of alignment, but this only occurrs after a turn and the sound. Seemingly at random it picks either right or left to pull to- I can be driving , make a turn, and it will make the sound and pull left - go a little biut, make another turn, the sound, and it will pull right.

thanks in advance

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Can only be guessing so you need to check everything about what holds the wheel(s) in place and check both sides as noise can travel and fool you as to where the source is.

Things to rule out include:
*Wheel lugs nuts properly tight.
*Wheel bearing that doesn't have in or outward lash.
*Ball Joint
*Strut
*inner and outer tie rod ends.
*Control arm bushings.

In that it can pull either way also suggests that something is very wrong with the rack and pinion steering rack itself just doesn't want to return properly to center again after turning??

Hoisting vehicle and turning wheels (steering them) by hand might help reveal the source problem,

T