Shop Hyundai Control Arms

Alright, sounds like I'm just being paranoid and this is going to be pretty much the standard cost then.

Thanks for your time guys, I really appreciate it.

You're welcome.

I will close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can re-open it for you if necessary.

I think something failed with the timing belt job and you should have that checked asap. Brakes more difficult is probably a side effect of low vacuum assist power due to low intake manifold vacuum. When that's wrong the engine just doesn't know what to do.
Hurry and have the belt/pump work checked out,


T

Thanks for your advice. It turns out that it was the control arm. I'm glad that I didn't drive it further than around the corner to the auto mechanic or else my wheels might have come completely off!

Glad it's fixed. The moral of this story is that noises are difficult to describe vs on-sight inspection by tech. Words used naturally differ as well.


When a tech hears of complaint of "knock" or "ping" at least speaking for myself it leads me to engine knocks and pings as in fuel firing all wrong at the wrong time not a suspension component!


Noises are warnings never to be ignored as it's chiefly unknown if just an annoyance or a serious safety issue as this seems to have been and would have suggested not to drive this at all!


Did you get an explanation as to what the problem was with this control arm? Worn out, left loose or broken in some way?


If that was plain wear over time and use I am surprised there wasn't more warning or that it was noticed a lot sooner,


T

From inland Mass. so no stranger to rust issues usually first noticed as we know as ugly body metal rust showing but definitely causes real harm to structural metals as well and can quickly.


Now I suggest if one side did this how carefully was the other side checked out? Guess this should be on your list of things to check or have checked to be ahead of such problems. Brands don't seem to matter all the time just some seem to fare better than others up to generating recalls as losing wheels and total control of a vehicle is wildly dangerous made worse as it can happen by total surprise!


Do learn and enjoy learning from sites such as this. This particular site is free to use and a volunteer site from regulars likely to reply to you.


All the suggestions and even pics are inadequate compared to plain looking at and inspecting something in person, extent of rust and how important will vary.


If it moves you have to pay attention. Good luck,


Tom

Couldn't hear anything wrong on the video! If there it wasn't clear. So - if it wont reproduce itself with a live person in car you have also added the weight of another person so car sits in a new spot by a smidge too. Bet you could put something about that weight on the seat and it goes away also.


IDK is the answer of the day. Try this: The front end of most vehicles has at least a lower control arm with rubber bushings inside and a ball joint low near wheel. Those rubber bushings can make noise - squeaky, creaky barn door noises just from shiny metal to rubber you can't see. Some do, some don't make a peep ever? I've had almost 100% luck if that by spraying either WD-40 or a thicker Silicone spray light weight product under assorted brand names now also under the WD-40 brand sells other than that exact product. Noise if from those is usually ones that also don't do it when wet. All the rubber parts that can move, those arms, sway bar bushings and the support rubber - generic to many vehicles could do this usually at some miles and age even if safe it's just shined up just such that it can do that.


Try - nothing to lose but the noise. A real worn something or problem should not totally go away.
Can also be usually plastic or rubber like body parts touching metal - bumper parts, inner fender splash shields or things that move some with flex of car.


Intermittent anything noise wise if it will NOT do it for a tech and nothing is apparently wrong with other checks can be futile to find and be sure it's fixed.


If you try spray lubes of those types you may not know which area was the one culprit if you did them all at once and it goes away.


The body of a car does torque some as weight shifts normally and can be elusive as you are experiencing.


Other: Noise could be transmitted from one side to another and fool you which side is really making the noise. Hard to be sure on any of this in person or other media. Try something that doesn't harm anything,


T

Thanks for your help. I have a feeling it is something with the ball joint or bushing causing some friction with metal as you indicated. Could this have been damaged when the work was done to replace the wheel bearing? It starting making the noise after the work was done, and it is only from that wheel, which was the one that was worked on.
I tried spraying white lithium grease and also a lubricant from underneath the car to access the inside part of the wheel. I also sprayed underneath around the front suspension. It didn't seem to be effective and likely need to have it opened up to access the bushing or ball joint directly.
The noise occurs with passengers and they have heard it as well, since it can be quite loud at times, usually when it is colder. This also makes me believe it has something to do with friction.
You can't hear the noise at the 18 second and 37 second mark? I can try to provide another video.

Notes: Spray lithium grease may not get as far into some areas as lighter weight stuff but good to finish with that.


Ball joints with no grease fittings you can't grease as under the boot is past where lube is needed. If a joint like that is making noise it can only be replaced IMO. Not greased again. Guess is seal allowed water into any of those that wear out and ends it for them whether a TRE or other joint like them not greasable.
You can try new video but short of a stethoscope on part by part not sure it's going to peg exactly where the noise is, just that it exists,


T

I brought my car into the dealer to look at a separate issue that was actually for the brake light issue for the seat belt buckle pretensioner. They did a full check of the car, and found the right front upper control arm bushing to be worn, without me even telling them. Can't believe Firestone and Pepboys couldn't find it when I told them both the noise was coming from there.

Could the bushing have been damaged when Firestone replaced the wheel bearing? It is odd that it is the location with the worn bushing and it occurred after they did the work.

They did mention having to remove the knuckle at the time. It was hard enough to get them to properly look at this bad bushing, let alone the others. I asked them many times since I've been back and they kept saying they couldn't find anything wrong. How long should these control arm bushings last? I suppose with 125000 miles wear they all could be mostly worn already and they just finished it off with the work

Sometimes it can be tough to see bent parts in the front end. On the other hand it is causing tire wear with in two day than it is bent bad and should be easily found with a bit of looking. I would take it to someone else that will find the problem rather than throw a bunce of parts and your money at it and hopefully fix it. Just my thoughts.

There is not a real benefit to the "dealership" over other shops unless there are good techs there. Case in point the dealership in my town sends all the hard to figure out stuff to the shop I work at. They have a charge account with us. Go figure. Ask you friends and neighbors where they take their cars for service. This is the best way to find a good repair shop.

I'll jump in here...

Free is good! Wont hurt to take it to another shop for a free inspection.As long as they can provide a definitive answer as to whats bent.
You may consider a body shop as well.
If your unsure about independant shops in your area,then take it to the dealer.
Agree with Jeff,sometimes bent parts can be hard to see but if its wearing tires in 2 days,it probably will be easier to spot.
Just a thought....Dont know what your deductible is or even if you want to turn it in,but if it gets costly,consider turning it in to your insurance company.


Jim