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CTR
2009 Hyundai Genesis Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-4F54F79    W0133-1826060  New

Qty:
$48.36
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushing
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Hyundai Genesis
CTR
2009 Hyundai Genesis Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-5D2B40B    W0133-1826061  New

Qty:
$48.08
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushing
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Hyundai Genesis
CTR
2009 Hyundai Genesis Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-28C4358    W0133-1826062  New

Qty:
$46.99
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushing
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Hyundai Genesis
CTR
2009 Hyundai Genesis Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-04A5024    W0133-1826063  New

Qty:
$46.11
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushing
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Hyundai Genesis
Genuine
2007 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-3DB4DB0    W0133-1833206  New

Qty:
$82.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Left Upper
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Sonata
Dorman
2007 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-0A09DF3    W0133-1833206  New

Qty:
$72.81
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Sonata
Dorman
2006 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-0A09DF3    W0133-1833206  New

Qty:
$72.81
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 09/21/2006-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Sonata
Genuine
2006 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-3DB4DB0    W0133-1833206  New

Qty:
$82.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/21/2006-
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Left Upper
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Sonata
Dorman
2006 Hyundai Azera Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-0A09DF3    W0133-1833206  New

Qty:
$72.81
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 07/07/2006-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Azera
Genuine
2006 Hyundai Azera Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-3DB4DB0    W0133-1833206  New

Qty:
$82.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/07/2006-
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Left Upper
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Azera
Dorman
2007 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-289C934    W0133-1833207  New

Qty:
$72.93
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Upper
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Sonata
Dorman
2006 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-289C934    W0133-1833207  New

Qty:
$72.93
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 09/21/2006-
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Upper
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Sonata
Dorman
2006 Hyundai Azera Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-289C934    W0133-1833207  New

Qty:
$72.93
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 07/07/2006-
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Upper
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Azera
CTR
2007 Hyundai Accent Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-3FA5C0C    W0133-1782557  New

Qty:
$92.42
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Bushings
  • with Bushings
  • Front - Lower/Left
Brand: CTR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Accent
Moog
2012 Hyundai Accent Suspension Control Arm Moog

P311-11D302B    W0133-1954611  New

Qty:
$64.40
Moog Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
Brand: Moog
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Hyundai Accent
CTR
2001 Hyundai Elantra Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-418C650    W0133-1974328  New

Qty:
$101.74
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
Brand: CTR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Hyundai Elantra
First Equipment Quality
2006 Hyundai Tucson Suspension Control Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-308E127    W0133-1897294  New

Qty:
$74.03
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Bushings
  • with Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Tucson
CTR
2006 Hyundai Tucson Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-43BF89E    W0133-1897294  New

Qty:
$139.09
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Includes Bushings
  • with Bushings
Brand: CTR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Tucson
First Equipment Quality
2007 Hyundai Tucson Suspension Control Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-308E127    W0133-1897294  New

Qty:
$74.03
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Tucson
Delphi
1995 Hyundai Accent Suspension Control Arm Delphi

P311-432367B    W0133-1621162  New

Qty:
$53.03
Delphi Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Lower/Left
Brand: Delphi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Hyundai Accent

Latest Hyundai Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

replacing rear upper control arm

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From mkwasnie on replacing rear upper control arm

I have a Hyundai 2001 xg300. One of my rear upper control arms is trashed, and am replacing it. Do I have to replace the other side as well?

Response From Discretesignals

What do you mean by trashed?

Response From mkwasnie

It rusted completely through, broke in half.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

! Do you mean a strut or really does this use upper and lower control arms in rear?


Rusted to fall apart is rarely limited (can be) to one thing unless perhaps that one was replaced with either bad used or an inferior clone with no resistance to corrosion.


I suggest you take a real hard look at the whole rust situation in general first. Is this even strong enough to mount a new one?


The strong spots the totally count on a unit body car include the areas where you would jack it up frequently in front of rear wheels and behind front wheels are the common strong spots. If those are in trouble the car is in serious trouble as a whole.


Not knowing that right now I can't even suggest you hoist this or jack up this car till you can ascertain the extent of the rust.
If all over and in the wrong places it's just too costly to effectively repair,


T

Hyundai Tiburon 2003

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Joel85 on Hyundai Tiburon 2003

So today I got up on a curb and had to get my car towed. The guy that towed me noted that he didn't think the axis was bad since he could reverse it and drive forward a bit and wasn't sure the suspension was damaged either. So I had it towed to GoodYear for an estimate.

They quoted me $434 for a Left Control Arm "to get things started" to put in and align. And $440 for a rim. I told them to hold off because I knew I could find a rim cheaper than that. I did, easily. But then I searched control arms for the hell of it. I found some for $50 - 60 for my car. So now I'm suspecting I'm being taken for a ride much worse than I originally expected.

Some friends recommended me a few mechanics but both ended up not doing Hyundais so now I'm not really sure what to do. Can anyone tell me if that's a high enough mark up where it would be worth eating a towing fee to take it somewhere else or is that going to be pretty much what it's going to cost? I'm just scared that the arm is only going to be the beginning and they are going to just keep finding things and marking them up high. Dealing with these places is like my worst nightmare so I'm really just looking for some good advice if possible

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what you are pricing but I seriously doubt you are finding a new control arm for $50 to $60. The dealer gets $229 just for the part

Response From Joel85 Top Rated Answer

I don't know what you are pricing but I seriously doubt you are finding a new control arm for $50 to $60. The dealer gets $229 just for the part

Just looked again and I guess it's a sale. Original price is $238 but they have it marked down to $64. It's on PartsGeek, maybe I'm just dumb and they sell sub standard parts though, I have no idea.

And sorry. I understand, I just no almost nothing about cars and I was hoping for an opinion on if that sounded right. I understand if that's not a thing you guys can do here. If so I'm sorry for posting and this can just be deleted.

Response From Hammer Time

Oh, you can be sure that it's Chinese made junk. We call it "white box" stuff. No brand name at all, just a distributor's name.

You look right below that one and you see the same part for $208. What do you think the first one is?

They are using deceptive pictures because they all picture the same part with a Hyundai logo.

Response From Joel85

Alright, sounds like I'm just being paranoid and this is going to be pretty much the standard cost then.

Thanks for your time guys, I really appreciate it.

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome.

I will close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can re-open it for you if necessary.

Response From Discretesignals

Don't think you are being taken because that estimate includes labor to install the part and alignment also. They probably won't install customer's parts. If they do, they won't warranty the job.

$60 for a control arm? That doesn't include shipping. Must be really cheap China stuff.

Beware of the friends recommending mechanics unless they are licensed and insured. Many people been burned by goober wantabes fixing their cars.

grinding scraping and knocking noise Hyundai

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From sasv83 on grinding scraping and knocking noise Hyundai

Hi I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS car with about 97k miles. I am having a lot of trouble with my car...a week ago I noticed that my car made a pinging sound when I accelerated. I switched to a higher octane of gas thinking that it would be a temporary fix for a leaky fuel injector. Then today the car started to knock and ping, there was a loud scraping noise, and the brakes seem like they were harder to operate. Do you have any ideas of what this could be? Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks! Also, I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think something failed with the timing belt job and you should have that checked asap. Brakes more difficult is probably a side effect of low vacuum assist power due to low intake manifold vacuum. When that's wrong the engine just doesn't know what to do.
Hurry and have the belt/pump work checked out,


T

Response From sasv83

Thanks for your advice. It turns out that it was the control arm. I'm glad that I didn't drive it further than around the corner to the auto mechanic or else my wheels might have come completely off!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad it's fixed. The moral of this story is that noises are difficult to describe vs on-sight inspection by tech. Words used naturally differ as well.


When a tech hears of complaint of "knock" or "ping" at least speaking for myself it leads me to engine knocks and pings as in fuel firing all wrong at the wrong time not a suspension component!


Noises are warnings never to be ignored as it's chiefly unknown if just an annoyance or a serious safety issue as this seems to have been and would have suggested not to drive this at all!


Did you get an explanation as to what the problem was with this control arm? Worn out, left loose or broken in some way?


If that was plain wear over time and use I am surprised there wasn't more warning or that it was noticed a lot sooner,


T

Response From sasv83 Top Rated Answer

Yeah I do not know a lot about cars but thought it was the engine too. I am glad it isn't and will be a lot cheaper to fix (our mechanic is charging us $250). I don't know why the control arm went bad, but I live in New York State and there has been a lot of snow and salt this year. It's been making a bell like sound when accelerating and then last week all of a sudden it turned to a crunching, squeaking and knocking noise and also sounded like something was dragging. I also saw that Kia/Hyundai recalled the control arms on the Tiburon minivan. Maybe the other models are having the same problem, I don't know. Thanks so much for giving suggestions. I like sites like this so that I can figure out what might be wrong with stuff since I do not know much about it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

From inland Mass. so no stranger to rust issues usually first noticed as we know as ugly body metal rust showing but definitely causes real harm to structural metals as well and can quickly.


Now I suggest if one side did this how carefully was the other side checked out? Guess this should be on your list of things to check or have checked to be ahead of such problems. Brands don't seem to matter all the time just some seem to fare better than others up to generating recalls as losing wheels and total control of a vehicle is wildly dangerous made worse as it can happen by total surprise!


Do learn and enjoy learning from sites such as this. This particular site is free to use and a volunteer site from regulars likely to reply to you.


All the suggestions and even pics are inadequate compared to plain looking at and inspecting something in person, extent of rust and how important will vary.


If it moves you have to pay attention. Good luck,


Tom

Creaking noise from RF wheel when driving over uneven surfaces

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From kplescia on Creaking noise from RF wheel when driving over uneven surfaces

My front passenger wheel began creaking when driving over uneven surfaces after work was done on 12/29/14 to replace the wheel bearing, stud, and nut for the right front. I've been dealing with this noise for 1.5 years, but to my luck, when I take a test drive with a mechanic, it does not reveal itself, so they will not take a detailed look at it and open it up. It is more prominent in cold weather. Pushing down on the front of the car for a strut test does not produce the noise.

I am including a video to hear the noise.

The creaks can be heard at :18 and :37 after driving over a sewer cover and sewer grate, respectively.

2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS
147000 miles

Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Keith

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Couldn't hear anything wrong on the video! If there it wasn't clear. So - if it wont reproduce itself with a live person in car you have also added the weight of another person so car sits in a new spot by a smidge too. Bet you could put something about that weight on the seat and it goes away also.


IDK is the answer of the day. Try this: The front end of most vehicles has at least a lower control arm with rubber bushings inside and a ball joint low near wheel. Those rubber bushings can make noise - squeaky, creaky barn door noises just from shiny metal to rubber you can't see. Some do, some don't make a peep ever? I've had almost 100% luck if that by spraying either WD-40 or a thicker Silicone spray light weight product under assorted brand names now also under the WD-40 brand sells other than that exact product. Noise if from those is usually ones that also don't do it when wet. All the rubber parts that can move, those arms, sway bar bushings and the support rubber - generic to many vehicles could do this usually at some miles and age even if safe it's just shined up just such that it can do that.


Try - nothing to lose but the noise. A real worn something or problem should not totally go away.
Can also be usually plastic or rubber like body parts touching metal - bumper parts, inner fender splash shields or things that move some with flex of car.


Intermittent anything noise wise if it will NOT do it for a tech and nothing is apparently wrong with other checks can be futile to find and be sure it's fixed.


If you try spray lubes of those types you may not know which area was the one culprit if you did them all at once and it goes away.


The body of a car does torque some as weight shifts normally and can be elusive as you are experiencing.


Other: Noise could be transmitted from one side to another and fool you which side is really making the noise. Hard to be sure on any of this in person or other media. Try something that doesn't harm anything,


T

Response From kplescia

Thanks for your help. I have a feeling it is something with the ball joint or bushing causing some friction with metal as you indicated. Could this have been damaged when the work was done to replace the wheel bearing? It starting making the noise after the work was done, and it is only from that wheel, which was the one that was worked on.
I tried spraying white lithium grease and also a lubricant from underneath the car to access the inside part of the wheel. I also sprayed underneath around the front suspension. It didn't seem to be effective and likely need to have it opened up to access the bushing or ball joint directly.
The noise occurs with passengers and they have heard it as well, since it can be quite loud at times, usually when it is colder. This also makes me believe it has something to do with friction.
You can't hear the noise at the 18 second and 37 second mark? I can try to provide another video.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Notes: Spray lithium grease may not get as far into some areas as lighter weight stuff but good to finish with that.


Ball joints with no grease fittings you can't grease as under the boot is past where lube is needed. If a joint like that is making noise it can only be replaced IMO. Not greased again. Guess is seal allowed water into any of those that wear out and ends it for them whether a TRE or other joint like them not greasable.
You can try new video but short of a stethoscope on part by part not sure it's going to peg exactly where the noise is, just that it exists,


T

Response From kplescia

I brought my car into the dealer to look at a separate issue that was actually for the brake light issue for the seat belt buckle pretensioner. They did a full check of the car, and found the right front upper control arm bushing to be worn, without me even telling them. Can't believe Firestone and Pepboys couldn't find it when I told them both the noise was coming from there.

Could the bushing have been damaged when Firestone replaced the wheel bearing? It is odd that it is the location with the worn bushing and it occurred after they did the work.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer


Could the bushing have been damaged when Firestone replaced the wheel bearing? It is odd that it is the location with the worn bushing and it occurred after they did the work.

Hard to say without actually seeing the worn part. The front wheel bearings are press in style and will require removing the steering knuckle if they don't have a hub tamer tool. The knuckle is connected to the upper ball joint, but the upper control arms don't need to be removed to remove the knuckles. The bushings in the control arm are rubber and the rubber does get old and brittle with age and use. Maybe the act of lifting the vehicle in the air finished off the worn out bushing which is something that would have been out of the technician's control to prevent from happening.

Have you had the other control arm bushings inspected to be sure they aren't on their way out also?

Response From kplescia

They did mention having to remove the knuckle at the time. It was hard enough to get them to properly look at this bad bushing, let alone the others. I asked them many times since I've been back and they kept saying they couldn't find anything wrong. How long should these control arm bushings last? I suppose with 125000 miles wear they all could be mostly worn already and they just finished it off with the work

tire alignment problems

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on tire alignment problems

2006
hyundai
tucson
L4-1975cc2.0L
33952

2 days ago i hit a curb and got a flat tire, i had the tire replaced, then the alignment was off so i took the car in again the guy working on the car said that something was bent the strut, spindle, or control arm but he couldnt see, he also said that whatever was bent was chewing the new tire. the service guy then said that i should just replace all of the parts it could be in order for the car to be ok which doesnt make sense to me if something would causing that much damage why couldnt he find it
... any kind of insight to my problem would be helpful

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Sometimes it can be tough to see bent parts in the front end. On the other hand it is causing tire wear with in two day than it is bent bad and should be easily found with a bit of looking. I would take it to someone else that will find the problem rather than throw a bunce of parts and your money at it and hopefully fix it. Just my thoughts.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

thanks for the advice,another question- would it be better to take it to the dealership who will charge me 100 to look for the problem or to a different service place that will look for free?

Response From Jeff Norfolk

There is not a real benefit to the "dealership" over other shops unless there are good techs there. Case in point the dealership in my town sends all the hard to figure out stuff to the shop I work at. They have a charge account with us. Go figure. Ask you friends and neighbors where they take their cars for service. This is the best way to find a good repair shop.

Response From Double J

I'll jump in here...

Free is good! Wont hurt to take it to another shop for a free inspection.As long as they can provide a definitive answer as to whats bent.
You may consider a body shop as well.
If your unsure about independant shops in your area,then take it to the dealer.
Agree with Jeff,sometimes bent parts can be hard to see but if its wearing tires in 2 days,it probably will be easier to spot.
Just a thought....Dont know what your deductible is or even if you want to turn it in,but if it gets costly,consider turning it in to your insurance company.


Jim