So you're saying you had the head rebuilt, installed it, and now the car is losing oil?

Yes, the timing belt broke at 96813 miles, bent all the intake valves we had them and the guides replaced, put everything back together, and now the check engine light flashes and they have had to add sometimes up to 2 quarts of oil at a time, they now have 100637 miles on it

Pull the codes and post them. They don't fix the belt when they should, doubt they took care of it any other way either. Bet this used oil before and they're trying to screw you into giving them a new motor. If no external leaks and head is all good the customer is the only part needing replacement. We've all dealt with them. Good luck.

They have been driving it around for around 4,000 miles with the check engine light flashing? Yikes.

They've been awarded the coveted Massengill award for being a complete and total douchebag. I have an artist carving it from marble as we speak.

That wouldn't be a surprise on a high mileage car when the new head increased the compression. Probably should have thought better about doing that head and just replaced the motor in the first place.

I can smell that situation. Belt was ignored long enough to break so what else on the maintenance was ignored. Lower end may have been marginal before.
Any way to find out how much oil it is using now and trust that info?

Is this the type customer that just spent some bucks and now YOU own everything ever wrong with the car type?

Never mind your technical/mechanical skills you need to be a mind reader as well,

T

You've replaced about all that would come to mind and I was thinking a maybe of a tight engine from heat so that's out for now.

What comes to mind now is the battery and charging system. Battery may be new and still not right by itself or because it doesn't get or hold a full charge.

Sometimes when marginal a try to two warms things up and can surprisingly start more aggresively on a subsequent attempt.

I guess I'd be looking for voltage drop when starting - not to drop below about 10v while cranking and if so move on to testing that battery and charging system - also leaving open the possibility of a triclke drain that might be intermittent. Doesn't solve much right this second but is something to test out.

Perhaps a meter you could hook up to a power port/lighter would be best so you could just leave it where you can watch it over several starts from inside the car,

T

Ron; Are you saying that you connected the battery backwards? Neg to Pos? Check the maxi-fuses in the power distribution box (in the engine compartment). Best way is to take them out and check for continuity with an ohmmeter. They can be blown without being visible. Hopefully, one has blown.

These pics show one, possibly two maxi-fuses.

No Loran there is no max fuses. I have been all over this freaken car. none in fuse box’s under dash and none under hood. lots of black relay switches. not sure where they can be hiding. can you tell me on the two pic you kindly sent me where you see the max fuses and what amps they are? thanks again for your help. just for the heck of it. what do you think a Hyundai dealer would charge me for this problem? looking forward to your replay. thanks Ron

The one marked "BATT" should be a 100A maxi-fuse, according to the legend.

sorry I spelled your name wrong. thanks Loren

thanks loren where do I buy a OHMETER and #2 are the max fuse black like with 3 prongs? thanks for your help so much. ron

You want a "new" car for $4,000 bucks - you are dreaming. I'm not able to promote one brand over another on the used market which will matter a ton on how well it was cared for. Whatever you find you want to consider have it inspected by YOUR mechanic as a pre-purchase requisite and if seller doesn't allow that skip that one and move on.


Things can happen by surprise to anything but you can rule out a lot first and not jump out of a frying pan into a fire most of the time.


If your trusted mechanic suggests some place or model I'd consider that a lot in your choice,


T

Hah, when I say "new", I meant "new to me." Hence the quotes. I know I'm not going to get anything wonderful for the amount of money I have to spend. Really I'm just looking for opinions on the overall reliability of the brand.

Getting any vehicle checked out by a mechanic is a prerequisite before I part with any cash.

Thanks for your input.

Right, check out any with YOUR mechanic. Owner/seller has the right to go and you pay for the inspection. I didn't mean or think you meant 'new' as in new and you can get lucky or not. Some seller's knew why to sell and some have put in so much $$ they gave up and just some dinky problem may lurk? Used is used no matter the reputation unless on the top 10 worst it's back to each car one by one.


Your price range doesn't help but bad cars are out there for many times that also. Some have hidden accident damage that wasn't fixed so well or a host of things.


Most mechanics and shops should go thru a check list checking out a car. Tires good and match. Evidence of poor maintenance or repairs and so on.


Ask if it's ready and will pass your place's inspection and if codes have been cleared which can make you wait to get it all legal if you do buy it or find some nightmare being covered up. Used is used. I don't believe in pricing cars that old as it would be all about real condition by that age.


Does seller have repair records and has routine services been done? It's rare to get a used car that isn't going to need something soon or right away so the costs of the unexpected of the best out there has to be considered.


#1 already said is have it checked out FIRST. What is your current car worth do you think? Will your mechanic buy it from you?


Whole thing can be hard work and take time to swap out used for used so make the time and do the homework now, not after the thing is yours,


T

I would agree with your mechanic. A Honda or Toyota is a better built car and a Hyundai is cheap right off the factory line. Big thing with any car is how it was maintained and driven. A Civic owned by a commuter and taken in for regular maintenance would be a good buy, one owned by a 22 year old that thinks he's going to be in the next Fast N Furious movie would obviously be a money pit.

A car that sold for $25,000 brand new is likely to be built with better materials than something that sold for $17,000. Personally, I'm not a fan of Korean cars, but some people have had good luck with them. Whatever car you look at buying, be sure to let your mechanic get a look at it before laying down any cash on it.

tillerbuck; Although this sounds like a dimmer switch problem, I'd first check the headlamp bulbs, themselves, first. It is common for a customer to lose one headlamp and not notice. Until, the other one goes out.