Shop Dodge Control Arms

i need to replace my upper control arm bushings on my 1993 Dodge Dakota Sport 2wd 5sp 3.9L..it seems the "crossbolt" for lack of correct terminology will pose a problem.anyone have any experience with this?..i would also welcome any tricks to pushing out the bushings myself, but i think i will end up having to take to to a shop to get this done

You mean the control arm shaft? Once you get the control arm off the vehicle, remove the nuts on the shaft. Best way I have found to get the bushings out is to use an air hammer. Once you get one bushing out, you can slide the control arm shaft out and pop the other bushing out. A ball joint tool works well for popping in one of the bushings. Then you slide the shaft back in and press the other bushing into place. I usually use anti-seize on the bushings and control arm bore to aid in getting them in easier. If you have never done this before, you should let your local mechanic handle it.

Replacing the whole arm is a whole lot easier if you don't mind spending more $$.

I suffer from rust on the brain from around here. Had one on a Olds Cutlass Classic (last RWD one) had the control arm off and bushing plain fell out - NFG. Can't recall prices but could look it up. New whole thing wasn't that bad as I recall and came w a new ball joint too and both bushings. Didn't have much of a choice with that one.

I've had to replace whole rear differentials because they as thick as they are were so bad they were unsafe! Frames fall to the ground. Brake and gas lines up the butt.

Slowly town by town they are ceasing use of rock salt on the roads. Stuff should be outlawed,

T

You should be able to get a whole new upper control arm. Tension from suspension must be off that wheel - remove shock at top while hoisted should do it if memory serves me. Air tools really help and if unsure about any of this just get it done as it can be unsafe if spring tension is still there and not watch out what you are doing or letting whole rest of it fall/lean over and stress the brake flex hose.

It would need an alignment after or highly suggested and most would do that right there. Possibly while you wait.

Control arm needs to be in same position if barbed ends of just a bushing are involved.

Unless well equipped this isn't the best DIY job IMO. Yes just a bushing can be done but if a new one from age and rust won't let it stick well when put in the whole arm is the way to go,

T

We bought a 2004 Dodge Stratus a month and a half ago and now it's making grinding noises when we turn to the left. It sounds kind of like a creaky door hinge. It's a V-6 with 42840 miles. We brought it in and they said that the lower ball joint and control arm needed to be replaced. Is that true?

There's nothing like being there to know for sure.
The assembly looks like this........



This could be the source of "creaking" noises but less likely
to cause "grinding" noises IMO. Grinding seems more like brake,
bearing or CV joint issues. All need to be known good,

T

Hi all I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2l v8 it has plus 1 size tires on it and has had those since we bought the truck. In the last few thousand miles I've noticed that the front 2 tires have been rubbing against the lower control arm and it's never done that before. It only seems to be when I'm turning and even then it's not "too" bad; I say that cause I'm still worried about them popping but again I don't see any signs of belts showing. Anyone have any ideas what could be causing the rubbing? I don't want to spend good money in 2 new tires and an alignment only to have them rubbing too! Thanks!

Have you inspected the front end for worn out suspension components? If not that would be a good place to start. If your wheel back spacing is too positive that will bring the wheel in closer to the control arms. Maybe you should have it checked out.

Hey guys I have. A 2000 dodge ram 1500 5.2liter v8 rear wheel drive. And the front tires are rubbing up against the lower control arms on both sides. The only thing is is that it drives perfectly fine i don't think it's been aligned in a while but I can let go of the wheel for a good 5 seconds and then it starts slowly pulling to right but that's it. It's got over 100000 miles on original everything. The suspension hasn't been replaced and I feel like there is some excessive pitching and rolling but I can't be sure. Any guesses what it could be?

You should get the vehicle up in the air and have the suspension and steering components inspected.

I can tell you right now that the bushings and are aged and cracked and the ball joint rubber casing is broken but like I said it drives perfectly so it's kind of contradicting in terms of what I'm feeling and what I'm seeing under the truck.

You cannot tell what condition a ball joint is in, not without unloading the spring tension.
If the truck has stock wheels and the recommended tire size; you know something is wrong for the tires to scrub.
Get it checked out; you should never second guess steering, suspension or brakes.

Dan.

You should still have it inspected. Without being able to look at it, it is hard to say what exactly is going on there. The ball joints can get dirt and water in them if the boot is disintegrated or ripped which causes it to wear out prematurely. You sure don't want a ball joint popping apart.

98 dodge Durango 193,000 miles 5.9 engine
once again I need help, been running 31x10.5x15 mud tires on my Durango since I had it, like 5 yrs. I wanted to get away from the noise and price, so yesterday I had some 235x75x15 xl's put on which are the right tires for it.
never had a problem with the mud tires, but now when I make a left hand turn I am hearing a thud like noise, which seems like its coming from the left wheel well, it only happens when turning left.
can anyone give me any ideas on what the problem could be?????????????
thank you very much
Dennis .....from Wisconsin
p.s. the noise keeps going until I complete my turn

If working with a floor jack and stands just spin the wheel while on and hold a screwdriver or something against fender while wheel and all turns. If metal of wheel not tire shows wobble, called "run out" by eye it's off and would be a lot if you see it easily and would feel that.


The joints - need to know how to check them. No wear looseness allowed - that joint is gone if seen.


Should know but you want weight of vehicle on the lower control arm on almost all not the frame of this as that can make it show no play. Just support vehicle close to lower ball joints where known strong with a jack stand and pry up on tire and wheel (helper is nice) and look at it. {instert here, if coil spring is on top of upper control arms you check with vehicle's weight held up be chassis or frame. Do both ways in question.


Side important note: Some grease-able joints in assorted vehicles you can't get at all fittings without steering the car as they point right at something. A or B - they make "L" grease fittings or other angles to put there or always know that you need to steer it to get at them all.


This is where the oil change places that brag speed are going to fail and just not grease joints that aren't easy! More is that some new joints will have grease fittings and OE ones didn't so might no look for them so too important. IMO - THERE'S ALMOST NO REASON A GREASABLE JOINT SHOULD WEAR OUT FOR TONS OF MILES, USE AND DECADES! Use waterproof (marine) or synthetic grease all the time and often - more often than oil change times if need be.


The cost of some joints is high plus alignments one by one for not doing this makes it worth the effort.


Trivia and true: For all my time - mega years of working on cars, trucks, machines, I've only seen ONE greasable joint wear out that wasn't already bad when I was taking care of a vehicle and that one was defective from new as I did it, miles recorded and owner was in ever 3,000 miles on the dot and it was dangerously worn in ONE year. That is so rare as said.
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As you see I'm not agreeing with just miles, time for wear. One thing that is a killer is water and dunking joints in water or from spray which is why you want water proof (still needs redoing) grease. Cheap grease dissolves in plain water but takes some time but less than the intervals most folks would do,


Tom