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Best Selling Genuine Dodge Control Arms

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Genuine
1995 Dodge Avenger Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-17646B0    W0133-1615613  New

Qty:
$64.71
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Port-Hole for Sway Bar End Link
  • with Bushing
  • Rear Lower Front
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Avenger
Dorman
1993 Dodge Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-1F45D7A    W0133-1674524  New

Qty:
$48.53
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • with B-Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Colt
Genuine
1993 Dodge Stealth Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-1054D2C    W0133-1851633  New

Qty:
$415.79
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Stealth
Genuine
1995 Dodge Stealth Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-19AD091    W0133-1730314  New

Qty:
$339.46
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Stealth
Genuine
1995 Dodge Stealth Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-1B68CF7    W0133-1730315  New

Qty:
$438.78
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Stealth
Dorman
1997 Dodge Avenger Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3A09523    W0133-1601999  New

Qty:
$63.55
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1997 - Dodge Avenger
Dorman
2001 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-12750EC    W0133-1601531  New

Qty:
$87.73
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Dodge Stratus
Dorman
1993 Dodge Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-222C3BA    W0133-1898649  New

Qty:
$22.46
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Colt
Dorman
1993 Dodge Colt Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-0ACE46D    W0133-1898650  New

Qty:
$22.46
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Colt
Dorman
2002 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-34D00A4    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$87.98
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
  • Front Left Lower
Brand: Dorman
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Stratus
Dorman
2002 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-1E66FCD    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$89.00
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
  • Front Right Lower
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Stratus
TRW
1993 Dodge Intrepid Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-425A3FA    W0133-1668894  New

Qty:
$71.92
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Lower/Right
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Intrepid
Dorman
1993 Dodge Intrepid Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-04FE33E    W0133-1668894  New

Qty:
$33.78
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Intrepid
TRW
1993 Dodge Intrepid Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-2E4B2AC    W0133-1668893  New

Qty:
$71.42
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Lower/Left
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Intrepid
Dorman
1993 Dodge Intrepid Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-2899C20    W0133-1668893  New

Qty:
$34.56
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • with B/Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Dodge Intrepid
Dorman
1995 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3C399C5    W0133-1669309  New

Qty:
$71.77
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Right Lower
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Stratus
TRW
1995 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-471E682    W0133-1669309  New

Qty:
$134.79
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Right Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Stratus
Dorman
2000 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3C399C5    W0133-1669309  New

Qty:
$71.77
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Dodge Stratus
Dorman
1995 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-5CD296E    W0133-1669308  New

Qty:
$73.33
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Left Lower
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Stratus
TRW
1995 Dodge Stratus Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-1C480A8    W0133-1669308  New

Qty:
$134.40
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • Front - Left Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Stratus

Latest Dodge Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

upper control arm bushings

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From gatorchin on upper control arm bushings

i need to replace my upper control arm bushings on my 1993 Dodge Dakota Sport 2wd 5sp 3.9L..it seems the "crossbolt" for lack of correct terminology will pose a problem.anyone have any experience with this?..i would also welcome any tricks to pushing out the bushings myself, but i think i will end up having to take to to a shop to get this done

Response From Discretesignals

You mean the control arm shaft? Once you get the control arm off the vehicle, remove the nuts on the shaft. Best way I have found to get the bushings out is to use an air hammer. Once you get one bushing out, you can slide the control arm shaft out and pop the other bushing out. A ball joint tool works well for popping in one of the bushings. Then you slide the shaft back in and press the other bushing into place. I usually use anti-seize on the bushings and control arm bore to aid in getting them in easier. If you have never done this before, you should let your local mechanic handle it.

Replacing the whole arm is a whole lot easier if you don't mind spending more $$.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I suffer from rust on the brain from around here. Had one on a Olds Cutlass Classic (last RWD one) had the control arm off and bushing plain fell out - NFG. Can't recall prices but could look it up. New whole thing wasn't that bad as I recall and came w a new ball joint too and both bushings. Didn't have much of a choice with that one.

I've had to replace whole rear differentials because they as thick as they are were so bad they were unsafe! Frames fall to the ground. Brake and gas lines up the butt.

Slowly town by town they are ceasing use of rock salt on the roads. Stuff should be outlawed,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You should be able to get a whole new upper control arm. Tension from suspension must be off that wheel - remove shock at top while hoisted should do it if memory serves me. Air tools really help and if unsure about any of this just get it done as it can be unsafe if spring tension is still there and not watch out what you are doing or letting whole rest of it fall/lean over and stress the brake flex hose.

It would need an alignment after or highly suggested and most would do that right there. Possibly while you wait.

Control arm needs to be in same position if barbed ends of just a bushing are involved.

Unless well equipped this isn't the best DIY job IMO. Yes just a bushing can be done but if a new one from age and rust won't let it stick well when put in the whole arm is the way to go,

T

2004 Stratus making ginding noises

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From lmfallert on 2004 Stratus making ginding noises

We bought a 2004 Dodge Stratus a month and a half ago and now it's making grinding noises when we turn to the left. It sounds kind of like a creaky door hinge. It's a V-6 with 42840 miles. We brought it in and they said that the lower ball joint and control arm needed to be replaced. Is that true?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There's nothing like being there to know for sure.
The assembly looks like this........



This could be the source of "creaking" noises but less likely
to cause "grinding" noises IMO. Grinding seems more like brake,
bearing or CV joint issues. All need to be known good,

T

Tires rubbing against LCA

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Macweb3000 on Tires rubbing against LCA

Hi all I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2l v8 it has plus 1 size tires on it and has had those since we bought the truck. In the last few thousand miles I've noticed that the front 2 tires have been rubbing against the lower control arm and it's never done that before. It only seems to be when I'm turning and even then it's not "too" bad; I say that cause I'm still worried about them popping but again I don't see any signs of belts showing. Anyone have any ideas what could be causing the rubbing? I don't want to spend good money in 2 new tires and an alignment only to have them rubbing too! Thanks!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Have you inspected the front end for worn out suspension components? If not that would be a good place to start. If your wheel back spacing is too positive that will bring the wheel in closer to the control arms. Maybe you should have it checked out.

Rubbing issue!!

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Macweb3000 on Rubbing issue!!

Hey guys I have. A 2000 dodge ram 1500 5.2liter v8 rear wheel drive. And the front tires are rubbing up against the lower control arms on both sides. The only thing is is that it drives perfectly fine i don't think it's been aligned in a while but I can let go of the wheel for a good 5 seconds and then it starts slowly pulling to right but that's it. It's got over 100000 miles on original everything. The suspension hasn't been replaced and I feel like there is some excessive pitching and rolling but I can't be sure. Any guesses what it could be?

Response From Discretesignals

You should get the vehicle up in the air and have the suspension and steering components inspected.

Response From Macweb3000

I can tell you right now that the bushings and are aged and cracked and the ball joint rubber casing is broken but like I said it drives perfectly so it's kind of contradicting in terms of what I'm feeling and what I'm seeing under the truck.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

You cannot tell what condition a ball joint is in, not without unloading the spring tension.
If the truck has stock wheels and the recommended tire size; you know something is wrong for the tires to scrub.
Get it checked out; you should never second guess steering, suspension or brakes.

Dan.

Response From Discretesignals

You should still have it inspected. Without being able to look at it, it is hard to say what exactly is going on there. The ball joints can get dirt and water in them if the boot is disintegrated or ripped which causes it to wear out prematurely. You sure don't want a ball joint popping apart.

new tires causing a thud,thud,thud when turning left

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From dennishazard on new tires causing a thud,thud,thud when turning left

98 dodge Durango 193,000 miles 5.9 engine
once again I need help, been running 31x10.5x15 mud tires on my Durango since I had it, like 5 yrs. I wanted to get away from the noise and price, so yesterday I had some 235x75x15 xl's put on which are the right tires for it.
never had a problem with the mud tires, but now when I make a left hand turn I am hearing a thud like noise, which seems like its coming from the left wheel well, it only happens when turning left.
can anyone give me any ideas on what the problem could be?????????????
thank you very much
Dennis .....from Wisconsin
p.s. the noise keeps going until I complete my turn

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Does this feel like wheel isn't round by chance? IDK so need to check some things. Try just hoisting wheels with new tires and spin them by hand noting how true the rim is by eye or better if you can. What I'm trying to rule out is the rotor of the brake is loose enough to allow rust unseen to fall down and then when wheel is put back on it's all wrong - feels lousy and warped.
It still should spin and you and might hear a busy sound of bad bearing. Without load of vehicle on it that might show nothing.
Rule out brake problems with wheel off and have to remove caliper and rotor not just a peek with it together. Lube up while there, remove any rust from hub and inside rotors.
A CV joint should be a snapping sound worse under load and turning. Any could be the problem up to a bad tire but there aren't that many really bad and out of round of defective tires right away.
Stinks - you get new tires and expect all will be better but can bring out issues you didn't know you had!


T

Response From dennishazard

Ok tom , i will check into theses, thanks once again for your help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry it can mean checking all those things as a pest but need to know why. I used to do new tires a lot thru another tire only shop and what happens when nothing is noticed before new tires and correct ones put on (you said they were) tires are fine and the old ones can wear into a flaw and go unnoticed! Then that crap with rust but only on rotors and drums that pull off and are not stuck tight from rust already or bolted tight. Just changing a tire or rotating tires that can happen. Stinks for tire only shops that might not have the techs ready to dismantle brakes for that rust flake issue I mentioned.
If you do this and find that was it do yourself a favor: Take all rotors that are just loose on hubs with wheel off and be pro-active by scraping down hub and inside where it touches rotor. Smear the least amount of high temp grease on parts that have nothing to do with friction of brakes just where it does that and it will not happen again to same set. It takes time to be able to be a problem but very common to me,


T

Response From dennishazard

?oh=486f99393f4e0e5e74cbdb27129bd616&oe=572907FEthis is my problem, but is it pittman arm or inner tierod ??????????? thanks

Response From dennishazard

I tried to post a pic but didn't work

Response From dennishazard


Response From dennishazard

I don't know if I should replace Pittman arm or tie rod, or both, but this is causing the thud noise when turning left

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Any moving part of front end - steering parts with freeplay must be replaced. That one you would easily see it move with steering the car. Ball joints you must hoist just so to take the load off to check properly and do so for all joints.
Some "Pitman" arms replacements really don't require an alignment or change alignment - others do so one highly recommended. Do check joints now or you need to redo the alignment for one not found and they should in doing an alignment.
Alone this part being worn out is NOT a common cause for a feeling or noise so much but any worn stuff would make any changes feel better or worse like new tires. The wobble from a brake rotor still stands. Just check if rotor is turning true which can only happen if loose to hub - most frozen in place or fastened in place so do not do what mentioned,


T

Response From dennishazard

Ok tom I'll check this out this after noon, I'm hoping by the picture I sent,
That it's the pitman arm I need to replace ? I will take off the tires to see what's going on with the rotors, thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If working with a floor jack and stands just spin the wheel while on and hold a screwdriver or something against fender while wheel and all turns. If metal of wheel not tire shows wobble, called "run out" by eye it's off and would be a lot if you see it easily and would feel that.


The joints - need to know how to check them. No wear looseness allowed - that joint is gone if seen.


Should know but you want weight of vehicle on the lower control arm on almost all not the frame of this as that can make it show no play. Just support vehicle close to lower ball joints where known strong with a jack stand and pry up on tire and wheel (helper is nice) and look at it. {instert here, if coil spring is on top of upper control arms you check with vehicle's weight held up be chassis or frame. Do both ways in question.


Side important note: Some grease-able joints in assorted vehicles you can't get at all fittings without steering the car as they point right at something. A or B - they make "L" grease fittings or other angles to put there or always know that you need to steer it to get at them all.


This is where the oil change places that brag speed are going to fail and just not grease joints that aren't easy! More is that some new joints will have grease fittings and OE ones didn't so might no look for them so too important. IMO - THERE'S ALMOST NO REASON A GREASABLE JOINT SHOULD WEAR OUT FOR TONS OF MILES, USE AND DECADES! Use waterproof (marine) or synthetic grease all the time and often - more often than oil change times if need be.


The cost of some joints is high plus alignments one by one for not doing this makes it worth the effort.


Trivia and true: For all my time - mega years of working on cars, trucks, machines, I've only seen ONE greasable joint wear out that wasn't already bad when I was taking care of a vehicle and that one was defective from new as I did it, miles recorded and owner was in ever 3,000 miles on the dot and it was dangerously worn in ONE year. That is so rare as said.
____________________________________________


As you see I'm not agreeing with just miles, time for wear. One thing that is a killer is water and dunking joints in water or from spray which is why you want water proof (still needs redoing) grease. Cheap grease dissolves in plain water but takes some time but less than the intervals most folks would do,


Tom