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We stock Control Arm parts for most Chrysler models, including 300M, Aspen, Cirrus, Concorde, Crossfire, Grand Voyager, Intrepid, LHS, Neon, New Yorker, PT Cruiser, Pacifica, Sebring, Town & Country, Voyager, 200, 300.

TRW
2000 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bushings

P311-0F3ECE6    W0133-1601999  New

Qty:
$128.25
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushings
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Chrysler Sebring LXi
TRW
2005 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-5A4BF57    W0133-1602838  New

Qty:
$123.23
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2005 - Chrysler Sebring Coupe
TRW
2005 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bush

P311-1246ABF    W0133-1602937  New

Qty:
$122.69
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • w/Ball Joint & Bush
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2005 - Chrysler Sebring Coupe
TRW
2000 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-471E682    W0133-1669309  New

Qty:
$175.45
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Front - Right Lower
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Chrysler Sebring JXi
Dorman
2000 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-3C399C5    W0133-1669309  New

Qty:
$106.44
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Chrysler Sebring JXi
TRW
2000 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-1C480A8    W0133-1669308  New

Qty:
$175.11
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Front - Left Lower
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Chrysler Sebring JXi
Dorman
2000 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-5CD296E    W0133-1669308  New

Qty:
$108.70
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Chrysler Sebring JXi
TRW
2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-5BF5C6F    W0133-1875793  New

Qty:
$125.96
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
TRW
2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-0E59368    W0133-1875795  New

Qty:
$125.43
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Dorman
2005 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-1FEDE89    W0133-1810539  New

Qty:
$119.55
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Chrysler 300 C SRT8
TRW
2005 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bushings

P311-5A5FD17    W0133-1771867  New

Qty:
$231.96
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • with Original Design
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Chrysler 300 C SRT8
Lemfoerder
2010 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder - with Ball Joint & Bushing

P311-497EB6E    W0133-1976168  New

Qty:
$177.58
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Lemfoerder
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Chrysler 300 C SRT8
Lemfoerder
2008 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder - with Ball Joint & Bushing

P311-497EB6E    W0133-1976168  New

Qty:
$177.58
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Later Design

    Ball Joint is located approximately 15mm forward of Original Design. Later Design provides 1.5 Degrees less Caster. When converting to Later Design, Control Arms must be replaced in pairs.
  • with Ball Joint & Bushing
Brand: Lemfoerder
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type
2008 - Chrysler 300 Touring RWD
TRW
2005 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bushings

P311-05EB89E    W0133-1771869  New

Qty:
$232.48
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • with Original Design
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Chrysler 300 C SRT8
TRW
2002 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm TRW - w/Ball Joint & Bushings

P311-1D52D48    W0133-1830867  New

Qty:
$81.57
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2002 - Chrysler Sebring Sedan
Dorman
2013 Chrysler 200 Suspension Control Arm Dorman - with Bushings

P311-0A3F11F    W0133-1978976  New

Qty:
$106.41
  • with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Chrysler 200 LX
Dorman
2013 Chrysler 200 Suspension Control Arm Dorman - with Bushings

P311-0A3F11F    W0133-1978976  New

Qty:
$106.41
  • with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Chrysler 200 LX
Dorman
2010 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-0F97F44    W0133-1898417  New

Qty:
$82.82
  • Toe Link
  • Includes Bushing
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chrysler Sebring
Lemfoerder
2005 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder

P311-0D2C6A0    W0133-1899134  New

Qty:
$112.27
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Tension Strut
  • Front Right Lower Front
Brand: Lemfoerder
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Chrysler 300 C SRT8
Lemfoerder
2005 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder - with Ball Joint & Bushing

P311-56A1164    W0133-1899135  New

Qty:
$112.27
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Includes Ball Joint and Bushing
  • with Ball Joint & Bushing
  • Front Left Lower Front
Brand: Lemfoerder
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Chrysler 300 C SRT8

Latest Chrysler Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Rear Lower control arms in need of replacement

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Rear Lower control arms in need of replacement

2004
Chrysler
Sebring Convertible
v6
63,000 miles

My rear suspension was making noise at every bumb... so i took to the dealership and the said that the REAR lower control arms need to be changed and they would need to do alignment on it.

They quoted me at $814 (including parts, labor, alignment)

However i find that it is a bit high priced, and I am wondering how much less it would be if i take it to a "non-franchised" mechanics place?

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

-Ayyad

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Couldn't find the parts for that. There was a bushing kit listed - cheaper. Have you tried a shop the specializes in alignments to both do the work and align it? This shouldn't necessitate a dealer only for the fix,

T

Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Dark1s on Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

We're doing a complete restore on a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue. First of all just to let everyone know, we don't have any previous automotive experience But we're not dumb and we're determined that this car is going to get fixed, even if we have to stand on our heads! After purchasing the repair manual online, we already with no one's help installed the windshield wiper motor, and stripped down the door frames and replaced the window motor. So as far as the brakes and suspension go, we're starting with the parts that need the most attention. First on the list of repairs is completely replacing all the parts that have to do with Steering, Suspension, and Brakes. When replacing the Brakes and Suspension, which parts should we replace first? We called the local auto parts store and got a list of parts we need to to replace the Brakes. Here's the list they gave us.1 Brake Pads (Front), 1 Brake Shoes (Rear), 2 Rotor & Hub Assemblies (Front), 2 Brake Drums (Rear), 2 Wheel Cylinders (Rear), 1 Brake Show Hardware Kit, 1 Hold Down Kit (Rear), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Left), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Right), 1 Brake Hose ( Left Front), 1 Brake Hose (Right Front), 1 Brake Hose (Rear), 2 Wheel Bearings (Outer and Front), 2 Wheel Seals, (Front Wheel), 2 Spindle Lock Nut Kits (Front), 2 Dust Caps/Wheel Bearing), 2 Wheel Bearings (Rear Wheel), 2 Wheel Seals (Rear Wheel), 1 Caliper w/ Hardware (Left Front), 1 Caliper w/Hardware (Right Front). Is anything missing from this list? Which part is it best to install first? Now for the suspension, we're really out in the cold, because Mopar doesn't make any of the parts going back more then 10 years and we're talking 1988, so we have find a different solution to getting parts such as new leaf springs and a torsion bar, etc for the suspension. How do we find parts not made by the manufacturer any more??? And we're talking about complete teardown of the suspension just like the brakes. We want to get this baby in mint condition! Like he came right off the lot!

By the way, there's another question that's kinda related to this whole job. We're gonna be under the car a lot, so we want to know, Are Jack Stands Safe? I've heard a lot of hell stories about Jack stands, so we wanted to know can you lift the car completely off the ground on four jackstands and work safely underneath it? We're using four five-ton jack stands. Any suggestions would be great. We'll be so happy when the brakes and suspension are working again. No more squeaking and slipping! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You have so much going on here that you probably should enroll in an adult ed vocational school.

Why do you think it needs a torsion bar? Just one! Rusted at the floor? Forget that car if so.

Leaf springs - again why?

If you must do this just make sure car is properly supported on solid surface.

Best to ask one question at a time as things arise. I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thank you for your imput Tom but we don't have the money or time to go to vocational school so we have been kinda winging it like they did in the ol day's. I purchased the repair manual because it's a complete rebuild guide as for as the basic parts. The leaf springs on my car are not in the best condition a bit of rust on them and the shackles on one of them looks very bent. We were just simply asking if it's a good idea to do the brakes and suspension at the same time since we are going to be taking the bottom of the car apart? And which one should we start working on first the suspension or the brakes?? We we're just hoping to get some kinda guideness or els we'll just have to jump in head first?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd make it stop properly first!

What you need is one heck of a good parts outlet. I would choose NAPA nearest to me for pro help. Springs (leaf) can be fixed and a good parts store would know who does in the area.

Near every dumb part you need is same day for a car that new or is for me. I drive an 1989 as a dailer driver - not this car but order by 10am parts are there by 4pm almost without fail!

Torsion bars are adjustable! If one is broken (I think this uses two) that's a different thing.

Suspension and front end parts. They wouldn't likely all be bad so learn how to look for the worn ones.

Brakes: Follow your guide to the letter! If you need parking brake cables you make any adjustments to them when brakes are done and proper first.

Short of dropping this off for resoration there are several trades involved. Front end and alignment specialty shops. Not worth buying some tools for many repairs. You will likely need an auto body shop and a body shop parts store for some common stuff. Know a good salvage yard. Special body parts won't be available new easily.

Special shops for different things:

Body work/finish work.
Auto Glass as needed.
Transmission work is frequently on it's own.
Front End parts and alignments not done everywhere - another specialty.
Uphostery! Need I say more?
A/C is frequently on its own too.
Welding is on its own short of smaller issues.
The list goes on forever.

Trying to say you need a good central shop and parts store as your "Ring Master" to do this as you simply won't be able to do everything yourself.

There are plenty of things you can do yourself and plenty that would cost you zillions to have the equipment/tools for.

I'd find a local or national club for Mopars and join it.

____________________

Is the car operational now? If rough enough you may want to buy a parts car of the same.

One thing at a time as you can't just wave a wand and it all be done at once nor at the same places.

Tools! Yikes you can go broke buying just tools. When something needs a special tool it frequently is better to just let that go out as the tool can easily exceed the whole cost of a job. Why own a tool for a one time thing?

Appreciate your energy but suggest you break things down into catagories and go for it one area at a time,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thanks. Appreciate you pointing us in the right direction. We are starting just one job at a time. Now we know to stick with the brakes first. The car is operational. So we're not trying to do everything at once. Trying to keep the job step by step. Right now what we're focusing on is the Brakes and Suspension, since that is what we seems to have the most problems. The A/C and all that other stuff can wait for later. We already found a local junkyard and pulled some body interior parts, so we're not completely dumb. We've done our research as much as a newbie can do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Start with front brakes. I wouldn't even touch the rears till front is all done. If you place floor jack under lower control arm just lift it a couple inches. Pry up on the wheel still on and look for motion at ball joints then jockey it side to side and look for tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm for play. Just do that now so you know if you need those.

Take the front wheels off, caliper off of rotor and let's get going. The flex hoses unless this is a museum piece will give you a hard time where they meed the body and metal line. May break metal line and we can cross those bridges when and if they happen,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

Keyboard won' survive that........LOL