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1999 Chrysler LHS "spewing" coolant from the reservoir

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Question From Starion on 1999 Chrysler LHS "spewing" coolant from the reservoir

Year: 1999
Make: Chrysler
Model: LHS
Engine Size: 3.5-liter V-6
Miles: 179k

Hi! Basically my problem is thus: The coolant reservoir (I think it's called, from various Google searches that term seems to pop up the most) was "spewing", like a tea kettle going off, coolant. It was idling at the time, and had been doing so for about 5 minutes (was just making a quick stop at home to grab some supplies then head to work), after having been driven on the highway (65-70mph speeds) for about 2 hours.

There is a hole in the tank (where it was spitting from), but it appears to be a very "intentional" hole, i.e., it's not a puncture or a worn spot. Cell Phone Picture of the hole.

The major possible lead up is, well, that I hit a deer last week. The damage, though, had appeared mostly cosmetic (Overall Picture of the Damage). The speeds were high (around 65mph, on the highway) but we both turned in opposite directions and it was more of a glancing blow.

For now, the only thing I've done is let it cool off, then start it up again. Everything seems to be running okay. I ran the AC to max and let it sit for about 10 minutes; the dashboard temps went up slightly, but still below the "half-way" point on the gauge. If nothing else, I assume I need to replace the lost coolant, but if I don't know what caused the problem, it is of course just going to happen again.

EDIT: Also, I checked the spilled coolant and the oil; the oil is still black and the coolant appeared relatively clear/white. I don't know if it's important, but it was one of the things my initial Google wanderings brought up.

If anyone has any insight or suggestions, I would truly appreciate it. Thank you!


Response From Sidom

The coolant needs to be topped off and then going off the symptoms I would run the engine at idle and make sure the cooling fans are coming on without the assist of the a/c system.

You may need a new reservior, I don't recall any vents where your picture shows and that reservoir is part of the pressurized system unlike some reservoirs that are just overflow tanks.....

Just have to add this but you do realize that the color of oil shouldn't be black but more of a clear light brown to golden color?

Response From Starion

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Response From Starion

Ack, sorry! I had a nice reply typed out, but when I hit post the only thing that posted was me quoting you. It looked silly, and I couldn't find a delete post button anywhere. So I did that until I could get back to the computer.

Okay, so, I've topped off the coolant, and let the engine idle for about ten minutes with the AC off. Silly question though...what am I looking for with regards to the "Cooling fans"? I know of one fan, that sits between the grill and the radiator, but that's about all I'm aware of (go super car knowledge). That fan wasn't spinning, though I don't know what temperature the engine has to get to before it spins up (ambient temperature, aka the outside temperature, was 55F, and at night, for what it's worth). I even drove it down to the corner gas station for a fill up; no spewing precious fluids, but when I got back the fan still wasn't spinning up.

I'm even more worried about that reservoir now, with it's inexplicable hole. It really looks like it's meant to be there, but also as you said, it doesn't appear to be just an overflow tank, so I don't know how it could maintain pressure. Could it have been plugged with something before?

As for the oil, yea. I completely misspoke, I really should have said "The oil looked like oil". It was changed last week, I would hope that it hadn't turned tar black already.

Response From Sidom

Well it helps to have a scanner to be able to see the temp the computer sees but isn't totally necessary. Basically most cars fans will come on when the coolant temp reaches around 225°.

What you are looking for is the fan to come on by itself at that temp. If you turn the a/c on, this can cause the fans to turn on, you want to be sure the engine temp is turning the fans on not the a/c...

So you start it up and just let it sit and run, keeping an eye on your temp gauge. I would let it get all the way up to 3/4s before shutting the engine off due to no fans. You can't drive it because now you are getting cool air flow thru the rad so it may not need the fans...

Sitting there running, with no a/c the fans should come on when the temp gauge is somewhere around 1/2, let it go all the way to 3/4, if there is still no fans, then this is the 1st problem that needs to be solved.....

Response From Starion

Aaaaannnnddd there's the first problem. Took about 45 minutes of idling, but yea, the radiator fan never kicked on. I start watching it past the 1/2 mark, and eventually shut down at the 3/4 like you said.

So more questions!

I'm not particularly car savvy at all, but I do build/repair computers for fun, including fan installs. Any chance of that experience generalizing over to here? You pretty much just plug the fan into a 4-pin molex connector (for most case fans, anyway) and screw it in. How much crazier will a radiator fan be? Could I buy the parts from a local shop (Pep Boys, etc), or is it pretty model specific? Could the problem be more systemic?

In the mean time, temps over the next 4 days aren't supposed to get above 65F, could the car manage without the fan for that long until I get to work on it on a day off (Thursday afternoon)? I suspect it could, since presumably it has for the last week (when I clipped the deer), but I'm not sure what "wear and tear" might be like by doing so. My driving is almost all highway, about 250 miles/day (with about 15 minutes in city).

I'm still not sure what the rapid expulsion of the fluids was about, I guess if that happens again with temps in the normal range (I was kind of freaked out, I regret not checking the temp gauge before I shut the car down), I'm in trouble.

Well, thanks for you're help!

Response From Sidom

Personally before I'd started chasing this problem down I would want to look at a data stream and verify for sure the temp is going up past 210° and the fans aren't coming on....... I've seen dash gauges get skewed before where they go up past 3/4 before the fans come on but the temp is range. If the temp is in range then you don't want to be taking the temp up that high..

If I remember you said the fans came on with the a/c so that would mean the fans are good. There is a couple of relays in the box under the hood for high & low speeds that comp ground when there are needed, you could try swapping them with similar relays in the box and see if that makes the fans come on....

The engine really needs the fans while sitting still. While driving you get air flow which is usually enough for cooling but it's risky driving with no fans and you would really need to keep an eye on the temp......

I rolled the dice once in a 115° heat when a cooling fan module went out. I had to go 70 miles on a busy CA freeway to avoid a tow bill (this was all while I was getting screamed at cuz of course the module failing was my fault )..... I knew if I hit traffic I was screwed.. I got lucky & made it but knew the risk I was running...

Response From Hammer Time

This is a 2 speed fan system low speed kicks at 216 and high speed at 230 so it's always possible that it's missing low speed only.

Accessory Drive Belt Chrysler 2.7L engine

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Question From blazera on Accessory Drive Belt Chrysler 2.7L engine

Hello, thank you for your time, I hope you can help me with this problem. We got a new accessory belt for our 98 Dodge Intrepid. I've managed to get the belt onto all the pulleys but cannot figure out how to tighten it.

Here's a diagram of the engine I found

guides have me baffled by referring to "tensioner arms" and "free arm position." I can't find any kind of "arm", only two bolts, the adjusting and locking bolts. The adjusting bolt is connected to a square of metal behind the pulley that is solidly connected to the rest of the engine, and the locking bolt is simply in the middle of the pulley. They seem like ordinary bolts, they can be loosened and tightened and I cannot figure out how to use them to tighten the belt although I'm certain this pulley is the solution.

Any help is much appreciated

Response From Hammer Time

Loosen the locking nut by about 1 turn and then turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise and the pulley will move in to loosen the belt.

For the A/C belt, there is one bolt in a slot that has to be loosened and the other ones that it pivots on need to be loosened just a little so they will pivot.

Response From blazera

so, I just need to do the opposite to tighten the belt?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, except for the part about loosening the lock nut. That still works the same.

Response From blazera Top Rated Answer

that worked, thank you sir.

Response From Hammer Time

Your welcome

1996 Chrysler Sebring Starting Schematic

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Question From ajs0000 on 1996 Chrysler Sebring Starting Schematic

Does anyone have a schematic (starter, relay, interlock, etc) section of the car
they can post?

1996 Chrysler Sebring
V6 "N" engine, no anti-theft

Thanks in advance!

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

This diagram can be a bit confusing because it’s showing both auto and manual transmissions.
Hope it’s what you’re looking for?

Response From ajs0000

That is exactly the schematic I needed!
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!!


1996 Chrysler Town & Country Gas Govener in Park?

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Question From Guest on 1996 Chrysler Town & Country Gas Govener in Park?

Does the 2006 Chrysler T&C have a govener so you can't redline the engine while in park? It seems to sputter around 300 rpms.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

You meant 3,000 - right? If it's not restricted around that with no load it should be to save youself from the BIG BANG you'll probably get a chance to witness if you keep trying that!


Response From Guest

Your reply was too funny! Yeah I meant 3000. Is that a yes though? It drives just fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't know if this is purposely limited but anything over 2,500 rpm with no load is not a good idea on engines for the most part. Why are you doing this? The resistance of load actually helps hold the engine from blowing up - keep trying and you may find out!

Redline would probably be 4,200 or so (guess) and you could see that and the behavior if you want just flooring it from slow or stop safely on a highway and 1st to 2nd shift would be about the max the engine should ever be exposed to and should handle that - with the load! With good judgement that could be a safe and legal test if you need to know if it can.

You won't catch me testing the no load limits on cars unless I want the exposion - not!

Computer controls for engine in this vintage I would expect to be confused with making automatic adjustments for NO LOAD high rpm.

Again - if the vehicle is running properly for you, why are you doing this????


Response From Guest

I'm crying, i'm laughing so hard. No I don't just sit in the van and gun the engine in my spare time.

The reason we gave the van a little gas while in park was I thought I heard a strange engine noise. Then we noticed this governer thing kicking in.

It appears though there could be power steering issues with this van that is common with 2005 & 2006 Chrysler Town and Country.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If you did just sit in the thing and gun the engine all the time this could happen No problem - it's just one last big bang.......... then no more noise! Good way to meet your neighbors and see how fast emergency response is in your area

Seriously - it could be lots of things. Check all fluids first. See if steering the van while sitting still makes the noise louder - that might be the steering pump/rack. don't force it at end of steering range.

Also check for pulleys that are bad or just a belt noise. Belt noises usually shut up for a while if you shut engine off, spray some WD-40 on the belt and if when started noise is gone get a new belt.

Other noises could be loose parts like air cleaner assy or exhaust heat shields sometimes even when this new. If a rattle or even a buzz it could be exhaust. Sometimes you can find those with engine off just tapping on pipes with a rubber hammer.

Are you still under warranty with this thing?


Response From dmac0923

i believe its a sort of Rev Limiter.

the newer fords dont rev past 3,000 without the iginition cutting out also

'93 chrysler concorde fuel filter change

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Question From Guest on '93 chrysler concorde fuel filter change

anyone know how to change a fuel filter on a '93 chrysler concorde?

any advice would be appreciated, on one end the connection won't come off. other end is free, though.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Below is an example of one type of fuel filter quick-connect, disconnect tool.
You would open up the tool enough to get it around the line; then slide the narrow end of the tool inside the quick connector. This should release the tangs inside the connector, allowing the connector to slide off of the filter.
But because of the age of this vehicle; the filter and quick connector might be seized together; if this is the case, then you will likely have to cut the line.
There are line repair kits available that will make putting the connector back on much easier.
If you do have to cut the line and are thinking that you’ll just use rubber fuel line to connect everything back together; make sure you use hose that is designed to handle the pressure the fuel pump can produce.
Regulated pressure can reach 55-60psi and I was surprised at this, after looking up the spec for maximum pressure; these pumps can produce is as high as 135psi. Regular everyday fuel line would blow up, like a balloon.