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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Exedy
    Exedy
  • LUK
    LUK
  • LuK
    LuK
  • Rhino Pac
    Rhino Pac
  • Sachs
    Sachs
  • Valeo
    Valeo

Best Selling Genuine Suzuki Clutches

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Rhino Pac, Sachs, Exedy, LUK, Valeo
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Suzuki Replacement Clutch Parts

We stock Clutch parts for most Suzuki models, including Aerio, Esteem, Forenza, Grand Vitara, Reno, SX4, Samurai, Sidekick, XL7.


Rhino Pac
1994 Suzuki Sidekick Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-4527997    04-137  New

Qty:
97.20
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-1/2'' Pontiac, Suzuki clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.500 X .875 X 20t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.5
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Valves Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Suzuki Sidekick 8 L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1590
Rhino Pac
2007 Suzuki Swift+ Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-24D9156    25-002  New

Qty:
118.00
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-1/2'' Chevrolet, Daewoo clutch kit
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.500 X .813 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.5
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Suzuki Swift+ L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1598
Rhino Pac
1990 Suzuki Sidekick Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-3095B58    04-108  New

Qty:
104.79
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 7-7/8'' Geo, Suzuki clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 7.875 X .875 X 20t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 7.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Suzuki Sidekick 2 L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1590
Rhino Pac
1991 Suzuki Sidekick Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-4527997    04-137  New

Qty:
97.20
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-1/2'' Pontiac, Suzuki clutch kit
  • ; Heavy Duty Option; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.500 X .875 X 20t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.5
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Suzuki Sidekick L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1590
Sachs
1993 Suzuki Swift Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.3L Sachs

P311-541202B    K0077-01  New

Qty:
131.74
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; Kit Only; O.D : 7 1/2 ;I.D : 3/4 ;TEETH : 18T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Suzuki Swift L 4 Cyl 1.3L 79 1298
Sachs
2005 Suzuki Swift+ Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Sachs

P311-0397C97    K70265-01  New

Qty:
127.01
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; Kit Only; O.D : 8 1/2 ;I.D : 13/16 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Swift+ Canada L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1598
Sachs
2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara Clutch Kit Sachs

P311-0674A95    W0133-1831496  New

Qty:
176.61
Sachs Clutch Kit
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2001 - Suzuki Grand Vitara JLS Plus SE
Exedy
2003 Suzuki Vitara Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-3946D3C    W0133-1645499  New

Qty:
380.17
Exedy Clutch Kit
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Suzuki Vitara
Sachs
2009 Suzuki Swift+ Clutch Kit Sachs

P311-282C1D0    W0133-1840146  New

Qty:
176.54
Sachs Clutch Kit
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Suzuki Swift+
Exedy
2006 Suzuki Aerio Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-4B6B5C8    W0133-1831504  New

Qty:
277.07
Exedy Clutch Kit
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Suzuki Aerio
LUK
1986 Suzuki Samurai Clutch Kit LUK

P311-386E3C0    W0133-1607292  New

Qty:
198.92
LUK Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; 190mm Disc - 20 Splines
  • SZC512; SZD039; BRG438
Brand: LUK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Suzuki Samurai
LUK
1994 Suzuki Samurai Clutch Kit LUK

P311-386E3C0    W0133-1607292  New

Qty:
198.92
LUK Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; 190mm Disc - 20 Splines
Brand: LUK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Suzuki Samurai
LUK
1991 Suzuki Sidekick Clutch Kit LUK

P311-5DBDD3A    W0133-1604303  New

Qty:
206.90
LUK Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; 200mm Disc - 20 Splines
  • SZC517J; SZD020U; BRG438
Brand: LUK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1991 - Suzuki Sidekick JL
Exedy
1988 Suzuki Samurai Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-3D891A4    W0133-1607292  New

Qty:
210.47
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • ; 190mm Disc - 20 Splines
  • SZC512; SZD039; BRG438
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Suzuki Samurai
LUK
1996 Suzuki X-90 Clutch Kit LUK

P311-2A0910C    W0133-1604142  New

Qty:
227.62
LUK Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • SZC519J; HYD103U; BRG438
Brand: LUK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Suzuki X-90
Exedy
1996 Suzuki X-90 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-41306AC    W0133-1604142  New

Qty:
283.16
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • SZC519J; HYD103U; BRG438
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Suzuki X-90
LUK
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Clutch Kit LUK

P311-2A0910C    W0133-1604142  New

Qty:
227.62
LUK Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: LUK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Suzuki Sidekick
Exedy
1991 Suzuki Sidekick Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-41306AC    W0133-1604142  New

Qty:
283.16
Exedy Clutch Kit
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1991 - Suzuki Sidekick JLX
Valeo
2004 Suzuki Forenza Clutch Kit Valeo - w/o alignment tool

P311-248DF22    W0133-1892852  New

Qty:
356.83
Valeo Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Kit includes: Pressure Plate, Disc, & T/O Bearing/Slave Cylinder Assembly
  • w/o alignment tool
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Suzuki Forenza
Sachs
2004 Suzuki Vitara Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-0C79342    KF628-08  New

Qty:
113.33
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; Kit Only; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 1/8 ;TEETH : 21T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Suzuki Vitara V 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2500

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 suzuki side kick sportcuts out when driving

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From boonigga on 1997 suzuki side kick sportcuts out when driving

when i drive my car, it starts to cut out really bad. It almost like it dont get any gas, so i push the clutch in and rev it up.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

boonigga; Check engine light on? Flashing? Plugged fuel filter?

early 90's suzuki atv 125cc dies when put in gear

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From ultraman on early 90's suzuki atv 125cc dies when put in gear

atv given to a freind years ago, been running fine. Suddenly when he puts the bike in gear the motor dies. He said that battery and electrical seem fine. Somehow triggering a kill switch (seems like). he's been unable to locate a shop manual. Any guesses?

Response From Timthecarguy719

Unhook the wiring going to the coil, that will disable any kill systems.
Maybe have a carb problem too, sometimes when a small engine is placed under load real quick it will die.

PS: I'm a certified small engine tech.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not a tech in these but basics still apply. What's missing when it dies? Spark or fuel? You should at least be able to narrow it down to one of those,

T

Response From ultraman

I figure if it's spark or fuel the thing wouldn't run. It starts and runs fine, only dying when put into gear. As soon as he attempts to engage the transmission the bike shuts down. Almost like a safety feature or automatic kill switch. He and I both are pretty "wrench savy" and are stumped. I told him to take his volt meter and try chasing it down. Maybe he'll figure it out. I wish him luck

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Best guess is any safety or kill switch is spark. Look and as said these aren't my expertise but machines share basic ideas,

T

Response From ultraman

thanks Tom, I appreciate the help. I'll pass your advise on to my buddy, hopefully he can get it worked out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If like some other "things" engine will quit if clutch isn't known disengaged and things like that for safety reasons. Some junk of my own will quit running without holding an "operator" present thing of varied sorts for like lawn mowers and stuff. Might even have a sensor on seat so it won't go if not sitting on it??
T

1st Gear Shudder

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From rajiv on 1st Gear Shudder

Car 2007 Suzuki Esteem VXi, 1300cc, 5 speed manual, 27000 kilos.

My car was smooth like silk a month back the only problem I had was I had to give a bit more gas on inclined plane. So the mechanic said to change the clutch plate, release bearing, tranny oil and I did that's when the shit started. After a week the car started to shudder violently from 1st gear, so the mechanic changed the pressure plate, ignition coil and the spark plug cable. He opened the gearbox 3 times in one month, the shudder never went away. Today when i was coming home from office, the shudder started getting more violent. This happens more when I drive the car on first gear. Reminder our countries traffic is the worst, I had to drive 1 hours straight on 1st gear most days and that's when it gets violent. After driving on 1st for a while the car just doesn't want to get out of first the more I rev the more it shudders, feels like the engine gonna fall off.

Please somebody help, I'm just losing money. They just fucked my good car

Response From Discretesignals

We don't have that vehicle here in the states, so advice may be kind of limited.

Does it shudder accelerating in reverse?

Was the flywheel resurfaced when the clutch components were replaced. Was the clutch disc contaminated with anything such as engine oil?

Response From rajiv

Nope, no shudder on reverse.

The flywheel was resurfaced. If there is oil how long will it take to get burnt out. Its getting worse each day. If it was oil shouldn't it get better the more I drive?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If it was oil shouldn't it get better the more I drive?

No, it would get worse. Oil damage is permanent.

95 Geo Tracker eats clutch cables?

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From ccarter6 on 95 Geo Tracker eats clutch cables?

Hello, I've got a1995 Geo Tracker 1.7 Litre? With over 160000 miles.
We bought it just about two years ago from a local used car dealer. We've already replaced the clutch on it three times. We thought it was just going through clutches really quickly for some reason, because I know I'm not driving it wrong, but then we figured out that it is because the clutch cables become less effective over time. This makes sense on a yearly time line, but I'm talking about the clutch cable being extremely hard to push and snapping 3rd months after putting in a new one.
Recently, we've gotten into the habit of replacing the cable as soon as it starts misbehaving, since it's only a 15 minute fix, but we just can't be spending 10th dollars every month on a clutch cable.
So what exactly happens is that we out a new cable in. It feels right: very easy to push, the proper amount of play, and it obviously engages near the floor. Over time, it gets more difficult to push, the play near the top gets extremely long, and it doesn't have that "thump" at the bottom that makes you sure that it engaged. If we left it it would snap, but we don't let it get to that point anymore. The weird thing is, that upon inspection, the clutch cable we are taking out is immaculate. No kinks, no frays, no clogging. We tried once wiggling it around to make sure and then putting it back in and it was still bad, yet a new clutch cable was okay again. We just can't figure out what it is.
Factors to consider: we have a performance or racing clutch in it now, because that seemed to last longer than the standard one. The car was obviously dropped, perhaps off of a lift, and the frame was welded solid improperly and not straight. The mount for the cable at the cabin is a little off, so one screw doesn't go in all the way, causing the cable to be a little sideways.

Thank you for your help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Why is this "screw" a little off on the inside? Made up something or do you know? This should probably get an entire new cable, case and all brackets as clearly eating up clutches it's not releasing the clutch enough or more often the driver but this problem is now more likely.


Not sure. Isn't this the same vehicle as a Suzuki Samurai or like that? Perhaps the exact right new set up is available. This one clearly isn't working out for you IMO,


T

Response From ccarter6

It looks like the hole was drilled sideways, so the screw goes in straight through the cable mount, but when it gets to the wall, it can't go in right. We were talking about just drilling out a new hole, but didn't know if that could be a big enough problem to constitute all of that effort.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

YOU are looking at it and I/we don't really suggest messing things up but 3 clutches and this issue so fast doesn't add up to me.


Either that cable can get exhaust heat and stick in case or some screwed up something but it about has to be allowing clutch to slip and you think it's fully engaged and the # of new clutches is either driver doesn't get it (think you do) or another reason and this could be it.


Other is if engine mounts allow too much motion you'll feel that free-play at top of pedal go away ---- that's burning up a clutch as well and YOU aren't "riding" it, it's riding itself for you!


If you can carefully calculate a change and not wreck anything maybe go for it. Otherwise it's hard to believe this ever went into production with that bad a flaw by design.


Funky note: If this is a Suzuki of sorts know that it was also made for "left" or "right" hand drive. Almost everything uses a hydraulic clutch if only it's easier to make a different 'brake' type line than change the whole set up.


Seriously - look at firewall on some of these that show dimples where items would be cut for either side when new to drive it - no joke!


Good luck. Measure twice and cut once as they say if you alter it,


T

1 inch hole in motorcycle crank case

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From dsignpro on 1 inch hole in motorcycle crank case

98 Suzuki Intruder 1400
30k miles

I hit a 6" diameter trailer commercial trailer hitch chunk of metal doing about 60 miles per hour. It bent the front wheel, and the bottom engine crank case got a hole knocked in it, also knocking out the oil drain plug. I stopped the engine fairly quickly after I got off the road, unbelievably still riding and didn't go down. Now what do I do with the bike? It was a remarkably conditioned, yet salvaged 1998 Suzuki Intruder 1400, with less than 30k miles on her. Curious if there's a way to fix this or should I part the bike out? Lots of really good stuff on this bike.

Response From Discretesignals

Maybe you could get just the crank case and swap all the other stuff into it?

Response From dsignpro

Unless I do that myself, which I haven't yet gotten into an engine like that, it's cost prohibitive. I'm really trying to Mickey-Mouse this back together for a ride at this point. I want to see how many other problems there might be once it's running. Like shocks, for instance. My neck is sore now by the way. I must have gotten a bit of whiplash. Better than a body cast....or worse. Didn't want to check out yet. Thanks for all your suggestions!

Response From nickwarner

There's no good way to fix this unless you know a good machinist who can tig weld the aluminum case after making a fiece to fit the busted section. Even then you'd still be looking at the fork damage and such. I'd part the bike out and go get a lotto ticket. Lot of people have laid theirs down in lesser circumstances and its your lucky day man. Shame to hear about the bike.

Response From dsignpro

I got a machinist working on it now. Only one side of the case has the hole, the other side has some of the bolt housing taken away. Extremely lucky to have stayed upright and get control of steering, that I'm playin the lotto by attempting a repair. I'll keep you posted. Just need a wheel and I've got three leads on that. I totally realize how lucky I was. Kinda unreal actually, cause I've never been going that fast and fallen, and with no gloves, and wearing only a padded mesh jacket and helmet...on California grooved highway.

Response From dsignpro

The engine was torn down, saw the shape it was in... the drain plug stem, a couple of cracks leading from the break has been repaired. I'll have to wait to see if there are any leaks. Engine made it back into the bike today. I bought a wheel assembly including tire and brake rotor from a member over at Intruder Alert. I should receive that early next week.

Response From nickwarner

Sounds like good luck in every step of the way for you. Glad you could get this fixed and are still in one piece keeping it on two wheels. I doubt I could've done that.

Response From dsignpro

That's right Nick. I can't stop thinking just how absurdly lucky I was. The mechanic even told me of all the similar stories he's heard or seen, they all crashed! 1 or 2 inches difference and my life this week would have been completely different, if at all! This is the thing now for me. I've have had other accidents, but this one is weighing the most on my mind now.

Response From nickwarner

15 years ago I lost all the skin on my left arm from wrist to shoulder to road rash. Laid down a dirt bike on the road. Took a month to heal up. That was the first and last time I ever dropped a bike, but there were plenty of close calls before and after. Had an old CB350 and was pulling a hard corner when I was about 16. Front tire blew in the middle of the curve and by no means was I going slow. Still to this day have no idea how I didn't lay it down. At that age it certainly wasn't skill and experience. If I had that then I would've changed my weatherchecked tires and it would never have happened. Since then whenever I ride my bike or anyone else's I look closely at my tires. I'm sure you'll have an eagle eye for road debris after this one. You could've been fitted with a catheter and a colostomy bag for life. Makes me look a lot closer at what could be laying in the road thinking of your story.

Response From dsignpro

Nick, your words and experience are what I couldn't come up with myself and I do appreciate them tremendously. Even with my accident, you still bring it to another level for me and it helps a great deal. This incident had me doing something yesterday I might not have done otherwise. I was on the freeway, on my bike once again. This time I'm in the left hand faster lane and I suddenly observe chunks of metal debris flying off the top of a tow truck carrying a damaged bobtail. These chunks landed in the middle it's lane following after it. I don't know if any cars or bikes hit them, but I proceeded to get that guy off the highway and did the best I could to make him aware of the dangers. Geez, if I'd been behind him!!! I remember a wheel cover hitting me too a couple of years ago. All in all, I hope as much good and watchful care can be reckoned with all the other riders that read this.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I haven't had the accidents you guys experienced, but I had a couple of close calls. I had an 1984 Kawasaki LTD750 while I was in the service. Was riding with a buddy who was on a 1984 Yamaha XJ Seca . We were in the middle of Kansas about 2 am in the morning hauling ass down some highway. Our bikes were pegged out and a grey Dodge Charger passed us like we were standing still. The Charger actually was able to do a U turn up the road and come back the other way as we passed him. I had my head down and looking through the handle bars while my body was clutching the bike. There was a dip in the road I didn't see and I felt the bike come off the ground. It had some head shake when it landed. I was doing over a 120 mph. Even my Sh!t turned white. Me and the buddy pulled off the road. The battery on my bike was boiling because the regulator was fed up and had overcharged the battery. I sold the bike after that and haven't ridden since.