Shop Discount Clutches

I would like to hear the noise but i cant click on the link. Gary
Do you hear the noise pushing down on the clutch?

Hello, sounds like when the clutch is out you get the noise, when pushed in, it goes away, correct? Gary

Yes only when i release it, pushing it in it sounds exactly like i expect.

Hearing the noise when your foot is releasing or off the clutch usually is a front bearing in the trans, you hear this noise while driving(sound like a growling noise?) Gary

While driving it is there but i can only hear it at low rpm because the engine gets pretty loud past 2.5k

I'm driving it to work later today so I'll be able to listen to it then but the engine is rather loud so I've never noticed it being there while driving, I assume it does make it.

These things can be a nightmare to bleed. BTDT. It's possible that you've got a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Try bleeding it, first, then continue to the slave.

Is this the clutch will not ENGAGE or will not DISENGAGE?

T
it will not engage.

Pardon my ignorance, but do you mean that the truck will not move when running and in gear?
Or that you can't get it into gear with the engine running?

Pardon my ignorance, but do you mean that the truck will not move when running and in gear?
Or that you can't get it into gear with the engine running?
it wont go into gear with the truck running.

More than likely, it is a hydraulic problem, such as air still in the system or a bad master cylinder. It is possible that something went wrong on the disc/pressure plate install, but unlikely.

That's right. That's the way hydraulics work. It's always possible you have mechanical issues too but definitely not adjustable.

No, the other way around unless something is not letting it disengage normally, not real likely.

So I possibly have air in the system. Purging or bleeding may allow the disengaging point to come further away from the floor. If I understand.

How much free play before you hit some resistance in the clutch pedal?

about an inch.........sloppy loose.....tried to address that, but there is nothing to adjust.

If you have excessive free play at the top, that could indicate air in the system but you would have to figure out how it got in there and resolve that issue before bleeding it..

condition has existed since I have owned it ....about 9 years...........I am addressing it now because I want to replace the rubber flooring that now has torn from not being able to have floor mats. I will have the system bled I guess.....Will be a good start.
thanks!

19 years old, you've owned it this way for NINE years like this! I'm lost - Is the floor bent? - T

floor isnt bent , but the carpet is worn through........
its a work truck that i put around 3500 miles a year on ..this winter im giving it a little tlc.........was looking at other trucks , but for the money mine is still fine.

Arggh! I've tried to find exact pictures of this layout in whole given that pics help. Being there would be and just might be necessary to know exactly why this is like this and could be like that for so long as I would have guessed a failure would have happened by how I am interpreting your situation.

Seems universal that this is not adjustable. That alone doesn't mean things are all fine or will behave fine with engagement and disengagement at the right spot in the travel of the pedal inside. It should have some "free-play" area at the top such that you could just push it with your finger and have some "nothing" room which is needed. I'm not sure our understanding of what you are describing and how we are interpreting just what it's doing and that happens. The web is fantastic but not like experience and actually seeing and touching things whatever they are.

Found that the fork that the slave cylinder seems to be a popular replacement item for this. Not sure how much of this part you can see if much at all but it's like this.......


The slave cylinder has a fixed rod that pushes on the lower left of that bar if you will with the dimple centering the pushrod of the slave which looks like this....


That pointed rod is at a set length so would not be adjustable as said. If there was no air, no fault in the hydraulics anywhere, not a bend pedal inside or floor somehow bent up in the travel area IMO there is a higher chance that this item or the fork has an issue. I'm plain not sure you can view it operating in this case.

Some of these set up the bleeding is VERY difficult to get right. So if in the life it needed to be bled it could still have air which IMO and experience would make the actual pressure to release, disengage clutch where it would also engage be lower to the floor. Air would highly likely be odd feeling at assorted temps or multiple pushes on clutch pedal may change it's spot where on pedal travel the show happens.

Trouble is to fully investigate this hands on you or a tech would first check that the pedal and pivot action inside was fine, might plug master cylinder with line removed to feel then a solid hard pedal, watch the action at the slave and just might have to remove the transmission to check it out more if it can't be seen or an inspection cover removed. That fork probably requires transmission removal if bent, worn somehow. If that and keeping this almost anyone would suggest doing a full clutch replacement job. If not a rusted mess it may not be that horrible to do labor/time wise.

I'm reading between the lines that you care about this truck enough to replace the rubber floor/carpet, have just said you don't put that many miles on it. Hey, having this vehicle is probably very useful. Being a GM truck especially there will be parts for it for ages including many common things that would be dealer only.

In short this isn't the way the clutch should behave. I/we can't know your abilities to rule everything out down to the last possible reason for this or if you really are willing to pay to take it apart down to the clutch or do that yourself. I didn't check but I wouldn't have it all apart and not put a new clutch job with parts generally not that costly as things go vs time to get there. By age alone if keeping it, it would be nice to know it was done but just a clutch job alone isn't necessarily going to change this problem so it needs to be checked while intact now IMO by you or a tech.

If nothing else I'll warn you that if there's a hole in the rubber flooring it will get moisture in there that will not dry out well and be another problem entirely to fix. Such is life,

T

If the pressure plate fingers are worn out or if they don't extend out far enough, you have low engagement also.

Thank you all for the tips..........will investigate further.........one last question.......Is there an inspection cover that can be removed to inspect clutch plate?
Other GM vehicles do........I assume this does.

Others may have some tricks to make a judgement on the clutch itself for wear - I don't know of anything very dependable except taking it apart then you see everything including how worn flywheel might be. If you just saw a mess of metal filings or like brake dust to excess would alarm me. You've driven it for 9 years and didn't mention having a new one yet does suggest you didn't drive it too improperly. Some people can eat up a clutch in no time or miles and some can get the whole possible life of a vehicle out of them.

Maybe I missed something over all the years but people would ask me how long one is going to last on a used vehicle or one they've owned and I can drive it, see that it grabs assertively, no strange noises and still can't say how long it will last or where in its life expectancy it is??

T

I bought the truck with 145k on it. The truck had a new clutch prior to that. I am easy on the clutch having driven them all my driving life some 40 years......2 months a year I haul a heavy compressor . This stresses both the clutch and the brake pads. There has been recent clutch chatter occasionally, but no slipping what so ever.

I believe you know how to treat a clutch to some degree. 40 years of thinking you know how means nothing. You spent all this time and ignored the issue proves you don't know how to use a clutch. Entire auto makers don't offer them because of this. You have no clue and ignored it.

Case closed,

T

I have no idea what you meant in your last post Tom...............But thank you anyway for the technical information you provided.

With all my respect - really. There's something not right in this whole tread. If this problem came to me in person it would be handled, fixed or explained. I can' do that.

Hey - #1 is we so called professionals volunteer our time 100%. This issue should be a cake walk for a tech actually there which so far the WWW can't do.

You've put up with is for all these years I don't know how to advise. This vehicle was near new when I retired - yup - that long ago. Aready beaten to death is this needs to be witnessed by a tech. For the life of me I can't suggest better than that. If you want to fix this yourself or not it needs YOU to part with some bucks for where to go,

Tom

Hydraulic clutch LINKAGE not the clutch itself. If it wont disengage it would be air in it that doesn't belong, faults with master clutch cylinder, slave cylinder or any parts involved.

Wrong fluid (an oil) would destroy those too with anything rubber but perhaps not instantly,

T

Please explain a little more clearly.

Is the clutch slipping?
Is it jumping out of gear?
How high in the pedal travel is the clutch catching?

could it be the fly wheel if the guy that machined might by the off chance was doin me a raw deal as cracks were still visible

Did you replace the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing?

Does it do this for all gears?

yes everything replaced aswell as flywheel got machined but did notice it was serverly but guy at that machined it did not say anything about cracks some cracks still visible after being machined

Well, it's really not making anny sense. Everything your describing indicates a slipping clutch but I don't see how that would be possible avter replacing those parts unless you installed the wrong parts. It really needs to be looked into deeper.

when disengaging clutch pedal car wants to move but slips as clutch is fully disengaged not jumping out of gear