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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Exedy
    Exedy
  • LuK
    LuK
  • Rhino Pac
    Rhino Pac
  • Sachs
    Sachs
  • Valeo
    Valeo

Best Selling Genuine Subaru Clutches

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Exedy, Rhino Pac, Sachs
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Subaru Replacement Clutch Parts

We stock Clutch parts for most Subaru models, including BRZ, Baja, Brat, Crosstrek, Forester, GL, Impreza, Legacy, Loyale, Outback, WRX, WRX STI, XV Crosstrek.


Exedy
2005 Subaru Legacy Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Exedy

P311-3199714    FJK1001FW  New

Qty:
557.46
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Solid FW Replacement for OEM Dual Mass FW, Sold as Kit Only, Includes Solid FW; Discmm 230; Discin 9-1/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 24
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Subaru Legacy EJ255 Turbocharged H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Exedy
2008 Subaru Legacy Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Exedy

P311-3199714    FJK1001FW  New

Qty:
557.46
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Solid FW Replacement for OEM Dual Mass FW, Sold as Kit Only; Discmm 230; Discin 9-1/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 24
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Subaru Legacy EJ255 Turbocharged H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Exedy
2006 Subaru Legacy Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Exedy

P311-3199714    FJK1001FW  New

Qty:
557.46
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Solid FW Replacement for OEM Dual Mass FW, Sold as kit only; Discmm 230; Discin 9-1/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 24
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Subaru Legacy EJ255 5 Turbocharged H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Exedy
2008 Subaru Legacy Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Exedy

P311-433DD62    FJK1002  New

Qty:
439.47
  • Sold as Kit Only; Discmm 240; Discin 9-7/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 24
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Subaru Legacy EJ255 6 Turbocharged H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Exedy
2012 Subaru Forester Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Exedy

P311-3199714    FJK1001FW  New

Qty:
557.46
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold as Kit Only, Includes Flywheel; Discmm 230; Discin 9-1/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 24
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Subaru Forester EJ255 H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Exedy
2003 Subaru Baja Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Exedy - OEM Replacement Clutch Kit

P311-44D2D56    KSB04  New

Qty:
190.92
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Subaru 99-11
  • ; Disc Diameter 225mm; 24 Spline; Major Diameter 1 in.
  • OEM Replacement Clutch Kit
  • Exedy is the leading manufacturer of racing clutches in Japan and supply all six factory vehicle manufacturer's race teams. Unlike our competitors, our clutches are NOT rebuilt OE, or modified stock clutches. ALL EXEDY racing and performance clutches are engineered, designed and built from the ground up as race clutches, in the shadow of the OEM products. EXEDY's product innovations are patented worldwide and developed in house using state of the art design, inspection and testing equipment. Before any design goes into production it goes through rigorous tests that simulate severe driving conditions, which ensure perfect performance in your vehicle. Additionally, no part will leave the EXEDY factory without a robotic and visual inspection, which guarantees quality you can stand behind.
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Subaru Baja H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Rhino Pac
2003 Subaru Impreza Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-12DEE88    15-019  New

Qty:
286.06
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/8'' Subaru clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Pull Type Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.000 X 1.000 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 9.125
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Subaru Impreza WRX H 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1994
Rhino Pac
2005 Subaru Forester Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-40E8F2E    15-004R  New

Qty:
260.30
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-7/8'' Subaru clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: 0.002+; Includes Repair Sleeve
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.875 X 1.000 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Subaru Forester Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Rhino Pac
2001 Subaru Impreza Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.2L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-06B102B    15-010R  New

Qty:
213.44
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-7/8'' Subaru clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.875 X 1.000 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Subaru Impreza H 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2212
Rhino Pac
2000 Subaru Outback Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-40E8F2E    15-004R  New

Qty:
260.30
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-7/8'' Subaru clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: 0.002+
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.875 X 1.000 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Subaru Outback Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Rhino Pac
2009 Subaru Outback Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-40E8F2E    15-004R  New

Qty:
260.30
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-7/8'' Subaru clutch kit
  • ; Sport; Flywheel Spec: 0.002+
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.875 X 1.000 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Subaru Outback Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Rhino Pac
2015 Subaru XV Crosstrek Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-40E8F2E    15-004R  New

Qty:
260.30
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-7/8'' Subaru clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: 0.002+; Includes Repair Sleeve and Flywheel
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.875 X 1.000 X 24t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Subaru XV Crosstrek Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1995
Sachs
1997 Subaru Impreza Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.8L Sachs

P311-33974AE    KF738-01  New

Qty:
167.72
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit with KF738-03 which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Subaru Impreza H 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Sachs
2004 Subaru Impreza Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-400548C    KF738-02  New

Qty:
175.91
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit with KF738-04 which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.;Kit Only; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Subaru Impreza Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Sachs
2003 Subaru Outback Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-400548C    KF738-02  New

Qty:
175.91
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; (fr. 4/00); If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit with KF738-04 which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.;Kit Only; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Subaru Outback Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Sachs
2000 Subaru Outback Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-400548C    KF738-02  New

Qty:
175.91
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; (fr. 4/00); fr. 4/00; If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit with KF738-04 which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.;Kit Only; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Subaru Outback Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Sachs
2000 Subaru Legacy Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-400548C    KF738-02  New

Qty:
175.91
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; (to 3/00); (to 3/00); If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit with KF738-04 which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.;Kit Only; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Subaru Legacy Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458
Sachs
2011 Subaru Forester Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-400548C    KF738-02  New

Qty:
175.91
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; (to 3/02/12);
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Subaru Forester Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2498
Sachs
2000 Subaru Legacy Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-400548C    KF738-02  New

Qty:
175.91
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit
  • ; Standard; (fr. 4/00); (fr. 4/00); If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit with KF738-04 which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.;Kit Only; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 24T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Subaru Legacy Naturally Aspirated H 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2458

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Subaru WRX clutch issue

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From Stefan81 on 2003 Subaru WRX clutch issue

2003 Subaru WRX 2.0 Turbo, 120,000 miles. Car is completely stock, had clutch and transmission rebuilt 2yrs/25,000 miles ago. Rebuilt clutch regularly fought w/ me in 1st gear on takeoff. Was driving and when shifting from 1st to 2nd the clutch went straight to the floor. No popping, no grinding, no noise or vibration whatsoever. Clutch now will stay in original starting position or all the way to the floor, stays in those two positions firmly but no tension in between, can't put into gear. Any ideas where to start? Been told it could be the clutch, the master cylinder, or even a tension cable? Also, what all will i need to remove just to try to diagnose the problem if i can fix it myself? Thanks for your time and effort

Response From Discretesignals

Have you checked the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder?

Response From Stefan81

Have not, will do, thanks

Response From Stefan81

Checked fluid level. Clutch reservoir was low but not empty. Added fluid and bled the system, problem still exactly the same

Response From nickwarner

Is there an access cover you can look through to watch the slave cylinder pushrod move as the clutch pedal is pushed? It sounds like either the master cylinder is junk or the throwout bearing is.

Response From Stefan81 Top Rated Answer

That's funny because I went ahead and put on a new slave cylinder on someone's advice and the problem still exists. I think the old slave cylinder was actually working fine. Going to check the master cylinder next, is there an easy way to determine if the master cylinder is the culprit?

Response From Hammer Time

That's going to be real hard to determine now that you have opened the system and filled it full of air. You need to get an accurate diagnosis before throwing parts at it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd probably just plug it where line goes in and then it should be a solid pedal if not air,


T

Input shaft o-ring wrong size and now I have trouble Subaru Outback

Showing 2 out of 22 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From Lverano on Input shaft o-ring wrong size and now I have trouble Subaru Outback

I believe I installed wrong size o-ring in the groove of my Subaru Outback transmission input shaft. The o-ring was a little big and did not fit snug. I drove the car for a while with no problems at all, then all of a sudden all gears except 1st and second went bye bye. I didn't realize such a little o-ring would create such problems. How is this possible? What does that little o-ring actually do?
2001 Subaru Outback VDC H6

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
Question, do you have reverse? Also, what was done to the trans?

Response From Lverano

I had the motor out cause I did a motor swap. The transmission was good. I replaced the o-ring while the motor was out. Yes, I have reverse. Thanks for the reply.

Response From gsferraro

Ok, when this shifts to 3rd, does it rev up like its in neutral or does the trans just stay in 2nd? The o ring on the input shaft is used for torque converter clutch application. Are there any codes present for the trans? How long did you drive this car for before issues with the trans?

Response From Lverano

It revs like it's in neutral in 3rd gear or higher. You can drive it really slow, but as soon as you try to go above 25 or 30mph it just revs. I drove it home with the automatic shifter in 2nd gear. The car drove perfect for about 20 miles. I stopped at a light and it stalled out. When I started it back up all gears except 1 and 2 (and reverse) were missing when I took off. I didn't check the code. Check engine light went off. I can say for sure the o-ring on the input shaft was very loose and not tight fitting when I installed it. Out of that 20 mile drive, most of it was in the city at slow speeds.

Response From gsferraro

This possibly could be caused by a few issues. I will explain how this trans works. First, this unit called the 4EAT, has the same design as a nissan pathfinder(say a 2002 model year), inside the trans pump there is whats called a pump slide and a pump slide actuator. The pump slide moves to increase pump pressure when it goes into the higher gears or when higher pressure is called for. The pump slide actuator is constanly moving back and fourth, by doing this it develops burrs and sticks in the low pressure positon causing the high clutch to burn out due to lack of pressure to keep the clutch applied.

Now im not sure if a subaru has this, but another issue that can cause what your feeling is a stuck WOT(wide open throttle)switch. A stuck WOT switch will cause the solenoid to become energized before the 2-3 shift takes place causing a cut-loose or over-speed on the 2-3 shift. Pull the dipstick out and see if the fluid smells burnt. Gary

Response From Lverano

not sure what any of that has to do with an o-ring, is what you are saying a result of the o-ring being the wrong size? The transmission was perfect prior to installing the wrong size input shaft o-ring. It's as simple as that. If there is fluid blowing past the o-ring when it should not be, then what happens? That's my question. Thanks for your help.

Response From gsferraro

The o ring is for torque converter clutch application or the lock-up function the transmission has. Lock-up is when the transmission locks to engine rotation and you would get around a 200 rpm drop, with the o-ring not there or broken the converter cannot lock-up. Almost every automatic transmission that has the lock-up function takes an o-ring on the input shaft, with the o-ring left out trans cannot lock-up. Lock-up comes in around 45mph, with the function not working, the trans will produce a trouble code and run hotter than normal.

Response From Lverano

Does this somehow contribute or translate to no gears like I've described? Is that possible? Thanks, Lester.

Response From Discretesignals

I'd say if you installed the incorrect o ring, you should take it back apart and install the correct o ring. Then see how it operates. If it works fine after that, you'll know your answer. Either way it should have the correct o ring installed for proper TCC operation.

Response From gsferraro Top Rated Answer

If it feels like it goes into neutral when shifting to 3rd gear, i would think you have a 3rd clutch problem, the o-ring seals the torque converter circuit does not seal the 3rd clutch circuit.

Response From Lverano

If it feels like it goes into neutral when shifting to 3rd gear, i would think you have a 3rd clutch problem, the o-ring seals the torque converter circuit does not seal the 3rd clutch circuit.

I'm just going to replace the o-ring. I know I seated the torque converter correctly. I know the shaft I pulled out at one point, and then slid it back in all the way by hand until I couldn't turn it by hand. I don't know if that had to be finessed a certain way similar to how the torque is seated. I'm very fresh and new to learning about transmissions. Appreciate the help. I'm sure this forum will come in handy for someone.

Response From gsferraro

Can you please let us know how it goes

Response From Lverano

(links not allowed especially to another site)
You've had Gary's attention on this to check and do things all along. You know you screwed up and blew this transmission already don't you?
T

Response From Lverano

Yes, T, but not 100%. Maybe like 70% sure, but so hoping that everything was ok that it came down to being only like 20% thinking things were
Screwed.
(changed a word not allowed

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Bummer. Wait for Gary to see if you can get out of this or another core at least needed? I know about what you did to smash it just haven't done that.
Please don't use properly spelled "bad" words. I changed it so something more PG rated.


Family friendly site please no matter how frustrated we can get,


Tom

Response From Lverano

nah, it's over for the Subie. I promised no more money was going in it. It's got rust, and that's the only reason i'm not searching out a used VDC transmission on ebay right now and moving forward. I am confident I could definitely do it, but it's just not worth it. I'm going to find a better donor car that needs, or will be needing a good engine. The JDM I have is ready and waiting when needed.

I'm not frustrated. I'm satisfied. I pretty much taught myself how to completely swap an engine, and besides destroying my transmission, which I would not do again, I did everything perfectly on my first try. I learned a heck of a lot. The car is a 2001 with 176,000 miles. The transmission could have gone a lot longer, but screwing it was the price of admission for a semester in 101 mechanics, school of hard knocks style.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad you've made up you mind on the car as a whole anyway and sorry a lesson learned had to be such a critical one.


Good luck with your next car and project,


T

Response From Lverano

Well ironically the O-ring was absolutely fine, and as a matter fact it did just what I thought it would do, it got compressed and it ended up sitting beautifully inside the groove on the input shaft.

Unfortunately early in the process of removing my engine, which was the first time I've ever removed an engine, I forgot to unbolt the torque converter. So as it happened about a year ago at the beginning of this project, I was pulling the engine for the first time. I ended up dropping the weight of the engine on the end of the input shaft accidentally, while the torque converter was still bolted to the flexplate. I thought I might've caused some damage, but I ended up convincing myself I got away with it.

I'll try to add a picture of the carnage. So what happened is the metal casing inside of the transmission got cracked. This explains why my car was driving so great initially on my test drive, it was initially just a crack, but ultimately the crack spread until the shaft casing snapped clean off and the rest is history.

I'm not really sure what part is cracked. it looks like a different kind of metal. I also wouldn't be surprised if all the damage was from when I bolted the engine to the transmission bell housing without having the torque converter fully seated, which is a well know way to crack the oil pump/ oil pump body/housing.

Response From Lverano

Did a cold start today and no gears at all.... I'm beginning to wonder what an o-ring is really gonna do for that....

Response From Lverano

Can you please let us know how it goes

Yes. It might be a week or more. I May post a test drive YouTube video or something. Keep me posted.

Response From Lverano

Yep that mission will be started in the upcoming week. (Replacing o-ring)

subaru noise right turn

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From tusseltussel on subaru noise right turn

working on an 02 Subaru Impreza 2.5 Ts 5 speed all wheel drive


My story:

pulled the engine on the Subaru Saturday to replace the clutch, pilot bearing and throwout bearing. all went smooth, put er back in Sunday mornin and drove it. started right up drives great, pulls like new with plenty of power, seems like everything is fine...... i noticed when i make a right turn in gear, once i straighten out again in gear moving it makes a sound for maybe a second at first it seemed like the sound a piece of plastic would make when it drags on the ground but after driving around the town square making right turns only and listening. it almost sounds like a worn out bearing when you spin it. it sounds almost like a roller skate wheel but only for a second and only after straightening out after making right turns.. no clue what it could be, i didn't even remove the axles i just pulled the engine, R+R the clutch and put it back in.... anyone have any idea's

Response From tusseltussel


i just drove it some more and determined that it only does it with a load... if im not on the gas after the turn it does not do it

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

A maybe: With hoisting or whatever did a front brake dust/water sheild end up too close to a brake rotor somehow?

T

Response From tusseltussel

im gonna climb under there in a few min. and look. I was also thinking maybe from having the suspension hanging that a spring or rubber mount or something moved a little and when i come out of a turn and the front end rocks back from giving it gas it could just be creaking a little bit. its gonna be something silly im sure. all i did was take out the engine and put it back in, i didn't remove and axles or anything els that would cause a problem so hopefully it is just a dust shield or plastic cover, or perhaps a creaking spring or rubber. I actually am going to pop it out again in a few weeks when i save up the money to do the timing belt idlers and tensioner and the valve covers and spark plug tube seals, so i should be able to see whats going on then. Thanks for pokin your head in and tryin to held out Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If so they usually can just be pulled back a tad if that's what it is. Easy and free to do that. Happens more than you think!

T